vkcooke90

hi, i have a 2000 maxima se with 5sp trans. I have a problem about when i would push in the clutch on the interstate to get ready to slow down the engine would stall. I heard from a friend that if you use seafoam and clean the intake that it could help out. I tried this and it did solve the constant, but it is still happening. I was hoping that someone has ran into this issue and knows what the problem is or have some kind of insight to what can be done. Thanks.

DavefromCA

Any check engine light? My auto would stall when slowing to a stop to park. Was the IAB valve.

td3005

hey you all im having the same issue no code how much was the iab replacement ?

joshmachine

I have a 6spd 03 with 150k miles. Same problem as yours, happens only at times. the rpm goes below the lowest marking when i press the clutch in at highway speed. At times the car will switch off, but other times, the rpm picks up. I avoid it by not keeping it in neutral. I downshift to 4th and release the clutch fast enough for the car to slow down and not jerk forward. From 4th if I put it in neutral, the car behaves fine.
There are no codes and the car starts up at the first crank after this happens.
I posted this issue here and got replies suggesting throttle body being dirty.
My mileage is great and no other problems, so I don't worry about this much.

WHAT IS IAB? Let me know if you get this fixed

vkcooke90

The IAC/IAB is the Idle air control valve. It controls the idle for the engine to make sure that it doesn't go too low or too high. If that piece is dirty from carbon it can cause idle issues.

louied9

i have the same issue too.. funny, i was told the IAC could be the problem, so i replaced it and it still happens but so random.. it did get better with the new IAC.. just so randomly it will just go to a stall when either parked and idling or driving and going to neutral to stop at alight or stop sign.. not too hard to replace.

I just replaced the fuel filter and sock today , runs even better than before. ( it already had good performance)

but it stalled on me after a few hours of running.. so back to the boards.

also replaced in the past few months:
MAF,PcV, dual o2 sim, rad side precat o2 sensor,plugs,(coils this next week),rad,alt,belt,f+r rotors, pads,r-calibers,tires,

?????what next????

Thorzdad

I had similar issues with another of my cars (not a Nissan), and it turned out the connector to the MAF had somehow loosened, causing intermittent stalling at idle. Cleaning the contacts, a dab of dielectric, and making sure the connection was good and snug cleared it up.

vkcooke90

Cleaned the intake with seafoam last weekend and now it seems that the issue with it stalling out is gone. I guess that with all the carbon and crap that was built up it wasnt allowing the engine to idle properly but now the car is running great. Thanks for your help

joshmachine

Could you explain how exactly you 'seafoamed' the intake? Is there any danger of ruining MAF or check engine light with this? Did you pour any seafoam in the fuel tank? how much did you pour into the intake?

A step by step of the entire procedure will be greatly appreciated.
Thanks for the update

vkcooke90

What i did was take the breather tube off and installed a clip with a straw that went up to the spray can of seafoam and put it about 1/4" to the TP, then reconnected everything. Raised RPM about 1K above idle and sprayed 1/2 can of seafoam into intake. It seemed to help some but the problem is still there.


I cleaned the contacts of the MAF sensor but the issue still has not gone away. Anyone have any suggestions.

Aviation005

replace MAF.

get it cheap off ebay

I have read a lot about your exact issue and a bad MAF

tseng1023

iTrader: (9)

exactly what you're not suppose to do.... get OEM it will save you headache

Aviation005

OEM is designed to break

aftermarket parts usually are of higher quality

vkcooke90

When i checked the MAF Sensor i noticed that i was able to pull the connector off the sensor without even pushing in the clip, could that be the issue that causing me to keep stalling. I check all the resistances that are mentioned in the Full service manual. I have ~12V on the battery power wire, and ~5V on the reference but it still is stalling. I even cleaned the contacts as best i can but nothing.

user name001

you are a moron... OP its not your MAFS, but if it was, DO NOT buy aftermarket! take it from someone who went through 2 aftermarket MAFS and a refurbished beck and arnley. BTW after you spray seafoam into the throttle body AFTER the MAFS and suck some through the brake line, let it sit and soak for 5-10 mins then take it out and work your way into gunning it to blow out the carbon deposits. it might serve you better to physically remove the TB and clean it as well.

AS LONG AS ITS DRIVE BY WIRE.

foodmanry

iTrader: (15)

DO NOT LISTEN TO AVIATION. He doesn't know what the hell he is talking about. See the threads he started as a reference...all of them are locked and for good reason.

Yes, it very well could be. Get some electrical contract cleaner and spray the push in tab on both sides of the clip. Then let it fully dry. After that use some graphite (dry lube) to lubricate the clip and see if you can get it moving again. Hopefully it isn't broken and just is seized.

vkcooke90

I was poking around and decided to take everything south of the TB off and clean it like never before. Then i cleaned the inside of the TB and IAC port and put it all back together. Cranked the vehicle and took it on a test drive and could not get it to stall, so i guess cleaning the IACV and the TB did the trick. Thanks to all the users that helped me! I hope someone can use this in the future.

foodmanry

iTrader: (15)

Good to hear.