400,000 miles achieved!
11-08-2012, 07:57 AM
#82
A little late here but congrats on your (son's?) 400k miles on the Maxima! I just sold my 95 5spd with 368,000 and I have no doubt in my mind that car was able to reach 500k easily. Ran stronger than some of your lower mileage/newer cars on the road!
Keep them miles rollin'!
Keep them miles rollin'!
11-26-2013, 07:10 PM
#85
Junior Member
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Bristol, TN
Posts: 40
Well, my 2000 SE made the 400,000 mile club! Original engine and auto tranny, car still runs great. I had to trade my 02 in April with 209,000 miles, it was just wore out, oil consumption had just gotten ridiculous. Found a beautiful one owner 2003 i35 with only 58,000 miles, love it, so it becomes "maxima" number 4 and third fifth gen.
11-29-2013, 06:37 AM
#87
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: California
Posts: 1,445
What did you do to achieve 400k miles?
What maintenance/other procedures did you use?
- Synthetic/regular engine oil?
- Synthetic/regular transmission fluid? What kind?
- Synthetic/regular brake an PS fluid?
- How often have you changed your oil and fluids?
- Any special driving habits?
- Etc., erc. .....
This would be valuable for the rest of us - thanks for sharing this info.
- Synthetic/regular engine oil?
- Synthetic/regular transmission fluid? What kind?
- Synthetic/regular brake an PS fluid?
- How often have you changed your oil and fluids?
- Any special driving habits?
- Etc., erc. .....
This would be valuable for the rest of us - thanks for sharing this info.
11-29-2013, 07:34 AM
#88
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Muncie, IN
Posts: 436
- Synthetic/regular engine oil?
For the first few years, I always used full synthetic. After that, I switched between full synth and a high-mileage synth-blend, depending on price. These days, I've settled on Valvoline Max-Life synth-blend. And always factory-spec 5w30. No additives.
- Synthetic/regular transmission fluid? What kind?
It's a manual transmission. And the only time it was touched was when clutches were worked on, which I didn't do. I haven't any idea what lubricant the shop used, other than it matched the factory spec.
- Synthetic/regular brake an PS fluid?
Just standard DOT III brake fluid and Dextron III PS fluid. Whatever's on the shelf. I tend to stick with whatever the factory spec is.
- How often have you changed your oil and fluids?
I have always tried to stay with a 6000-8000 mile oil-change schedule for all of my cars. Always oil and a good filter. This is the single best thing you can do for any engine. I also replace the air filter once a year.
The other fluids, I just top-off if necessary. Over the years, the various fluids end up getting replaced anyway, as major parts fail and have to be replaced...i.e. master/slave cylinders, power steering hoses, etc.
One item I've always felt a little guilty about not doing is a regular coolant flush. No reason I haven't done it other than being lazy. It's never seemed to matter, though. The radiator held out until close to 300,000 miles before it finally started leaking, and the car has never had an overheating problem. Guess I've been lucky?
- Any special driving habits?
Not really. The majority of the miles on my Maxima are highway miles, owing to my wife's daily commute. But, there's also a good mix of city miles, too. Really, though, we just used the car as a daily family hauler, and just drive it. No racing...though, it's definitely been allowed to stretch its legs from time-to-time...mostly on empty back-country roads. It's been an especially awesome road-trip car, having been from Indiana to Colorado and Florida multiple times.
- Etc., etc. .....
I'm in the "if it ain't broke, don't fix it" camp. Thus, I'm not someone who tends to do a bunch of stuff to my cars. You'll never catch me with a can of SeaFoam, for instance.
When a part fails, I replace it. If it's possible, I DIY. But, I'm not a mechanic, nor am I set-up to do a lot of big stuff, so I've found good mechanics in my area to do the big things.
Honestly, though, these cars were built really well...other than the original brake discs. Those were horrible. And that eternal P0420 code that they all seem to be plagued with. I just keep the maintenance simple, but regular, and it's worked well for me.
This is actually my second Maxima. We had a '91 SE 5-speed before this one, and it had 315,000 miles on it when we sold it and got this one.
For the first few years, I always used full synthetic. After that, I switched between full synth and a high-mileage synth-blend, depending on price. These days, I've settled on Valvoline Max-Life synth-blend. And always factory-spec 5w30. No additives.
- Synthetic/regular transmission fluid? What kind?
It's a manual transmission. And the only time it was touched was when clutches were worked on, which I didn't do. I haven't any idea what lubricant the shop used, other than it matched the factory spec.
- Synthetic/regular brake an PS fluid?
Just standard DOT III brake fluid and Dextron III PS fluid. Whatever's on the shelf. I tend to stick with whatever the factory spec is.
- How often have you changed your oil and fluids?
I have always tried to stay with a 6000-8000 mile oil-change schedule for all of my cars. Always oil and a good filter. This is the single best thing you can do for any engine. I also replace the air filter once a year.
The other fluids, I just top-off if necessary. Over the years, the various fluids end up getting replaced anyway, as major parts fail and have to be replaced...i.e. master/slave cylinders, power steering hoses, etc.
One item I've always felt a little guilty about not doing is a regular coolant flush. No reason I haven't done it other than being lazy. It's never seemed to matter, though. The radiator held out until close to 300,000 miles before it finally started leaking, and the car has never had an overheating problem. Guess I've been lucky?
- Any special driving habits?
Not really. The majority of the miles on my Maxima are highway miles, owing to my wife's daily commute. But, there's also a good mix of city miles, too. Really, though, we just used the car as a daily family hauler, and just drive it. No racing...though, it's definitely been allowed to stretch its legs from time-to-time...mostly on empty back-country roads. It's been an especially awesome road-trip car, having been from Indiana to Colorado and Florida multiple times.
- Etc., etc. .....
I'm in the "if it ain't broke, don't fix it" camp. Thus, I'm not someone who tends to do a bunch of stuff to my cars. You'll never catch me with a can of SeaFoam, for instance.
When a part fails, I replace it. If it's possible, I DIY. But, I'm not a mechanic, nor am I set-up to do a lot of big stuff, so I've found good mechanics in my area to do the big things.
Honestly, though, these cars were built really well...other than the original brake discs. Those were horrible. And that eternal P0420 code that they all seem to be plagued with. I just keep the maintenance simple, but regular, and it's worked well for me.
This is actually my second Maxima. We had a '91 SE 5-speed before this one, and it had 315,000 miles on it when we sold it and got this one.
11-29-2013, 08:43 AM
#89
Junior Member
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Bristol, TN
Posts: 40
For me it's been pretty routine, semisynthetic oil every 6000 miles, trans service every 30000, belts plugs hoses every 100000. Had usual brake, rotor caliper issues. When the SES lite comes on I get it checked out. Been thru 3 alternators, 2 radiators, 2 mafs, 1 IACV, radiator fan assy last year. Numerous tierod ends, sway bar links, strut bearings etc I've given up on fixing front end clunk. Replaced a bearing in the ac pump, Some of the usual sensor issues, both front axles. Parts and service costs have been reasonable, maxima.org has been helpful. Really amazed at things I haven't done anything to, wheel bearings, fuel pump, only one coil pack, etc. It sits outside but only rust is one left rear door, I ground it down and patched with MarineTex which reasonably matches the glacier white. Bought this car at 89,000 miles, had a 97 with 278,000 just as good a car. Bought the 02 with 82000 traded for the I35 at 209000. Was glad to find the I35 as I wanted nothing to do with a 6th gen, seems to be a much better car than the 02, really impressed by mpg improvement around 27 compared to 22, hope to keep it a long time. One other thing in the summer I pull a jet ski, same hitch I had on the 97 in now on the 03.
11-29-2013, 10:43 PM
#90
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: California
Posts: 1,445
Your I35 gets 27 mpg? Is it because of CVT, or for some other reason?
My 2000 SE gets 20-21 in the city and 25-28 on the highway. I once got 31.5 on a long trip, driving at the limit (55 - 65 mph). But, for most of my driving, it's 20 - 21 mpg. I wish the car was more thrifty with gas ......
My 2000 SE gets 20-21 in the city and 25-28 on the highway. I once got 31.5 on a long trip, driving at the limit (55 - 65 mph). But, for most of my driving, it's 20 - 21 mpg. I wish the car was more thrifty with gas ......
11-30-2013, 09:30 AM
#92
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: California
Posts: 1,445
Hello Thorzad & all,
this is very encouraging - I maintain my 2000 SE in similar manner, so perhaps I'll get to 400K miles too !
My maintenance so far (from January 2000 to Nov 2013, car has 116,000 miles):
1. Engine oil and Filter. I do these myself, every 6k -7.5k miles. I use synthetic - Mobil 1. I used normal oil until 45k miles, and used to change it every 3000 miles. Synthetic is much better - less frequent maintenance, same cost (buy it at Costco) and much better oil quality.
2. Transmission Fluid and Coolant. I have them replaced and/or flushed every 30K miles. Use standard Nissan-recommended fluid.
3. Air Filter. Whenever it gets dirty - probably about once a year (do this myself).
4. Other fluids: no replacement, just topping (just like you).
5. Spark Plugs. I have them changed every 60k miles. Use standard NGKxxx, and I buy them at Rockauto, cheap.
6. ECU/ECM. The dealer replaced this unit under warranty, when a code showed up that they could not clear. This was done in 2011, the car had ~28k miles.
5. Brakes. Replaced OEM brakes with Brembo blanks and Raybestos Quiet Stops pads, at 45k miles Front and at 57 k miles Rear. (The OEM brakes were very, very poor). Also, two sets of front brake pads since then.
6. Ignition Coils. Replaced all six at 50k miles. It cost me about $500 (parts and labor). This was a clear manufacturing/design defect. Shame on you, Nissan! Since then, no problems with coils .... .
7. Starter. The original one had to be replaced at 80k miles. Cost me a tow to the shop. I plan to buy a spare one (a new Hitachi is $89 at Rockauto).
8. MAF Sensor. Also replaced at 80K. From now on, I plan to clean it, at least I'll try (there is a good write-up here on Maxima.org somewhere).
9. EGR Pipe. Broke at 97k miles, the car make terrible noise, like running with no muffler. My mechanic charged me $384 to fix it, and it took he three attempts .... (he is 20-25% cheaper then local dealers here in California).
10. Radiator. I had to replace it once, at 106k miles.
11. Big Front End Rejuvenation. (on 11/23/2013). My mechanic replaced both axles, both control arms (LCAs), both struts, both wheel bearings. Total cost $1,800. I wouldn't had this done if I couldn't expect that the car will run (without more major repairs) for another 5-6 years, and to at least 200k miles. That's why this post!
BTW, the front end is now tight and no play in the steering, but there is still a clunk, under some conditions. It seems that it's impossible to eliminate them completely.
I'll have to do something about my front brakes (squeak, shudder). I am considering the PowerStop One-Click kit (see http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/more...156&cc=1359222 ). It's inexpensive, should be cheaper than machining the rotors and buying new pads. Has anybody have any experience with this kit ???
Also, the rear struts are not in great shape and I may have to replace then next year.
this is very encouraging - I maintain my 2000 SE in similar manner, so perhaps I'll get to 400K miles too !
My maintenance so far (from January 2000 to Nov 2013, car has 116,000 miles):
1. Engine oil and Filter. I do these myself, every 6k -7.5k miles. I use synthetic - Mobil 1. I used normal oil until 45k miles, and used to change it every 3000 miles. Synthetic is much better - less frequent maintenance, same cost (buy it at Costco) and much better oil quality.
2. Transmission Fluid and Coolant. I have them replaced and/or flushed every 30K miles. Use standard Nissan-recommended fluid.
3. Air Filter. Whenever it gets dirty - probably about once a year (do this myself).
4. Other fluids: no replacement, just topping (just like you).
5. Spark Plugs. I have them changed every 60k miles. Use standard NGKxxx, and I buy them at Rockauto, cheap.
6. ECU/ECM. The dealer replaced this unit under warranty, when a code showed up that they could not clear. This was done in 2011, the car had ~28k miles.
5. Brakes. Replaced OEM brakes with Brembo blanks and Raybestos Quiet Stops pads, at 45k miles Front and at 57 k miles Rear. (The OEM brakes were very, very poor). Also, two sets of front brake pads since then.
6. Ignition Coils. Replaced all six at 50k miles. It cost me about $500 (parts and labor). This was a clear manufacturing/design defect. Shame on you, Nissan! Since then, no problems with coils .... .
7. Starter. The original one had to be replaced at 80k miles. Cost me a tow to the shop. I plan to buy a spare one (a new Hitachi is $89 at Rockauto).
8. MAF Sensor. Also replaced at 80K. From now on, I plan to clean it, at least I'll try (there is a good write-up here on Maxima.org somewhere).
9. EGR Pipe. Broke at 97k miles, the car make terrible noise, like running with no muffler. My mechanic charged me $384 to fix it, and it took he three attempts .... (he is 20-25% cheaper then local dealers here in California).
10. Radiator. I had to replace it once, at 106k miles.
11. Big Front End Rejuvenation. (on 11/23/2013). My mechanic replaced both axles, both control arms (LCAs), both struts, both wheel bearings. Total cost $1,800. I wouldn't had this done if I couldn't expect that the car will run (without more major repairs) for another 5-6 years, and to at least 200k miles. That's why this post!
BTW, the front end is now tight and no play in the steering, but there is still a clunk, under some conditions. It seems that it's impossible to eliminate them completely.
I'll have to do something about my front brakes (squeak, shudder). I am considering the PowerStop One-Click kit (see http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/more...156&cc=1359222 ). It's inexpensive, should be cheaper than machining the rotors and buying new pads. Has anybody have any experience with this kit ???
Also, the rear struts are not in great shape and I may have to replace then next year.
12-01-2013, 07:42 PM
#93
Junior Member
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Bristol, TN
Posts: 40
"Your I35 gets 27 mpg? Is it because of CVT, or for some other reason?"
I35 has the same 4 speed auto as the max, I have no idea why mpg is so much better but as much as I drive the extra 80-90 miles per tank really adds up. Not to mention the quart of oil every 800 miles the 02 was at by the time it was done. My 2000 gets 23-24 typically, 29 if it's all highway.
I35 has the same 4 speed auto as the max, I have no idea why mpg is so much better but as much as I drive the extra 80-90 miles per tank really adds up. Not to mention the quart of oil every 800 miles the 02 was at by the time it was done. My 2000 gets 23-24 typically, 29 if it's all highway.
12-01-2013, 10:36 PM
#94
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: California
Posts: 1,445
Hhhhmmmm, that's interesting.
My car (2000 SE, 3.0L engine) uses no oil whatsoever - NONE. I don't have to add any oil during the entire oil change period (in my case, this is 7k miles and/or 12 months). I also believe this is true of all/most 3.0L engines.
My understanding is that the 3.5L engine uses quite a bit of oil (like 1 qt every 600-700 miles). On the other hand, I also hear that the mileage of the 3.5L engine is a lot better than the 3.0L.
If you guys know of any tricks that would improve the mileage of my 2000 SE I would much appreciate it !!! (Any ECU/ECM/other tricks or swapping - it's all ecu-controlled after all, right ???)
My car (2000 SE, 3.0L engine) uses no oil whatsoever - NONE. I don't have to add any oil during the entire oil change period (in my case, this is 7k miles and/or 12 months). I also believe this is true of all/most 3.0L engines.
My understanding is that the 3.5L engine uses quite a bit of oil (like 1 qt every 600-700 miles). On the other hand, I also hear that the mileage of the 3.5L engine is a lot better than the 3.0L.
If you guys know of any tricks that would improve the mileage of my 2000 SE I would much appreciate it !!! (Any ECU/ECM/other tricks or swapping - it's all ecu-controlled after all, right ???)
12-08-2013, 06:21 AM
#98
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Muncie, IN
Posts: 436
We're not getting those miles without doing work on our cars, though. If you think your Max needs some work, do it.
12-10-2013, 03:18 PM
#99
I've got 276,xxx and it's been a pain this year. Next year's forecast does not look so great. Got a list of problems which need fixing and among those is Auto Trans (third dayum time) as well as some engine part replacing. sigh
05-23-2015, 04:06 AM
#104
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Muncie, IN
Posts: 436
As far as I know, it is still on the road. The people who bought it live over in another county, though, so it would be rare for me to ever see it.
I think a half-million miles is possible, though the shape of the car wouldn't be good. My experience tells me that the engine could probably make it, but the rest of the car...body, interior, electronics, etc...would be the things that fell apart and made it undrivable.
I think a half-million miles is possible, though the shape of the car wouldn't be good. My experience tells me that the engine could probably make it, but the rest of the car...body, interior, electronics, etc...would be the things that fell apart and made it undrivable.
05-23-2015, 09:31 AM
#105
As far as I know, it is still on the road. The people who bought it live over in another county, though, so it would be rare for me to ever see it.
I think a half-million miles is possible, though the shape of the car wouldn't be good. My experience tells me that the engine could probably make it, but the rest of the car...body, interior, electronics, etc...would be the things that fell apart and made it undrivable.
I think a half-million miles is possible, though the shape of the car wouldn't be good. My experience tells me that the engine could probably make it, but the rest of the car...body, interior, electronics, etc...would be the things that fell apart and made it undrivable.
05-23-2015, 11:53 AM
#106
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Muncie, IN
Posts: 436
I had to replace the entire steering rack on the Maxima. Never had a problem with the AC. The interior was definitely worn-out. The big culprit, though, was rust. Had to replace the metal around both real wheel arches, and into the door jambs. That was the only place on the body, though
05-23-2015, 11:56 PM
#108
Junior Member
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Bristol, TN
Posts: 40
Well I'm up to 445,000 miles on my 2000 automatic. Did spend some money on it in the last few months, coil packs, one axle (replaced under warranty as it had previously been replaced about 200,000 miles ago) O2 sensor, belts, brakes, valve cover gaskets other routine stuff then main seal leak got so bad so bit the $650 bullet and fixed it too. The engine and trans still original and run great, no issues, minimal oil usage about a quart every 1500 miles. Even the exhaust is still original although I've had to reweld the flange on the bend over the axle again. Car runs great a little rust on the rocker panel and one door but I'm going for 500,000. 3.0 with automatic gets my vote as most durable gas power drivetrain ever. Meanwhile 03 I35 hit 118,000, no recent issues but stupid power steering hose I've had to replace on all three of my previous maximas.
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