intake question 2012
#1
intake question 2012
car- 2003 maxima 3.5 6spd
hey guys i have been reading the forums about cold air intakes and short ram intakes and i want a different intake for my car in the near future but all the types of intakes they talk about here on the org are no longer for sale or i am unable to find them.
i find a bunch of threads from years ago with types of intakes i cant even find online anymore, not for 2002-03 anymore, some examples are
frankencar intake
takeda intake
berk intake
i currently have a injen cold air intake and honestly i love the way it feels and sounds but im not too crazy about it being too low to the ground so i worry, im looking for a short ram intake so i dont worry anymore, i might even consider trading if someones got a nice new short ram intake, i juss purchased for $250 on ebay been installed for 2 weeks
give me some names of short ram intakes i can find for sale today 2012, i found a stillen intake but theres no pictures installed.
hey guys i have been reading the forums about cold air intakes and short ram intakes and i want a different intake for my car in the near future but all the types of intakes they talk about here on the org are no longer for sale or i am unable to find them.
i find a bunch of threads from years ago with types of intakes i cant even find online anymore, not for 2002-03 anymore, some examples are
frankencar intake
takeda intake
berk intake
i currently have a injen cold air intake and honestly i love the way it feels and sounds but im not too crazy about it being too low to the ground so i worry, im looking for a short ram intake so i dont worry anymore, i might even consider trading if someones got a nice new short ram intake, i juss purchased for $250 on ebay been installed for 2 weeks
give me some names of short ram intakes i can find for sale today 2012, i found a stillen intake but theres no pictures installed.
#2
car- 2003 maxima 3.5 6spd
hey guys i have been reading the forums about cold air intakes and short ram intakes and i want a different intake for my car in the near future but all the types of intakes they talk about here on the org are no longer for sale or i am unable to find them.
i find a bunch of threads from years ago with types of intakes i cant even find online anymore, not for 2002-03 anymore, some examples are
frankencar intake
takeda intake
berk intake
i currently have a injen cold air intake and honestly i love the way it feels and sounds but im not too crazy about it being too low to the ground so i worry, im looking for a short ram intake so i dont worry anymore, i might even consider trading if someones got a nice new short ram intake, i juss purchased for $250 on ebay been installed for 2 weeks
give me some names of short ram intakes i can find for sale today 2012, i found a stillen intake but theres no pictures installed.
hey guys i have been reading the forums about cold air intakes and short ram intakes and i want a different intake for my car in the near future but all the types of intakes they talk about here on the org are no longer for sale or i am unable to find them.
i find a bunch of threads from years ago with types of intakes i cant even find online anymore, not for 2002-03 anymore, some examples are
frankencar intake
takeda intake
berk intake
i currently have a injen cold air intake and honestly i love the way it feels and sounds but im not too crazy about it being too low to the ground so i worry, im looking for a short ram intake so i dont worry anymore, i might even consider trading if someones got a nice new short ram intake, i juss purchased for $250 on ebay been installed for 2 weeks
give me some names of short ram intakes i can find for sale today 2012, i found a stillen intake but theres no pictures installed.
#3
i was also looking for an intake that is 1 piece, i hate having the maf housing in between, looks bad, i wanna take out of my maf sensor and just install it into the intake, i've seen other cars like this.
#4
The JWT pop charger is still for sale. Many people on the forums here like it. I've also heard one in person and it's pretty loud.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/JWT-JIM-WOLF...item2c61c15151
http://www.ebay.com/itm/JWT-JIM-WOLF...item2c61c15151
#5
The JWT pop charger is still for sale. Many people on the forums here like it. I've also heard one in person and it's pretty loud.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/JWT-JIM-WOLF...item2c61c15151
http://www.ebay.com/itm/JWT-JIM-WOLF...item2c61c15151
#6
Hooks directly to the maf housing and will sit behind the battery.
Look at the last picture in this thread
http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...pretty-37.html
Look at the last picture in this thread
http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...pretty-37.html
#7
Hooks directly to the maf housing and will sit behind the battery.
Look at the last picture in this thread
http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...pretty-37.html
Look at the last picture in this thread
http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...pretty-37.html
i found a picture on google of this
looks pretty bad ***, im looking for something like this for our 5.5 gen
this is my engine bay right now
#8
All that Rods03 did was take off the stock airbox and attach the JWT pop charger to it. If you dont want the stock resonator in the setup, then your 'custom' intake will consist of the following from throttle body to filter:
Throttle Body--> Coupler (with 2 hose clamps) --> Midpipe--> Coupler (w/ clamps)--> MAF housing --> JWT pop charger.
If you do not want to use the JWT and want to use a dry flow filter such as AEM or Apex'i, after the MAF housing you will add a MAF adapter, coupler (again with clamps) then the filter. The filter should include the adapter that you would attach to the coupler.
Throttle Body--> Coupler (with 2 hose clamps) --> Midpipe--> Coupler (w/ clamps)--> MAF housing --> JWT pop charger.
If you do not want to use the JWT and want to use a dry flow filter such as AEM or Apex'i, after the MAF housing you will add a MAF adapter, coupler (again with clamps) then the filter. The filter should include the adapter that you would attach to the coupler.
Last edited by djshwini; 06-16-2012 at 07:29 PM.
#10
Anyone know where to get those on a 5.5 gen?
#11
My most recent setups. My last set up with K&N oiled filter.
My current setup with an AEM dry filter and 45 degree coupler to angle the filter toward the front.
Other than that, you can get an intake tube from Knight here on the forums. He. Makes them to eliminate the MAF housing and helmholtz.
My current setup with an AEM dry filter and 45 degree coupler to angle the filter toward the front.
Other than that, you can get an intake tube from Knight here on the forums. He. Makes them to eliminate the MAF housing and helmholtz.
Last edited by Chris Gregg; 06-18-2012 at 04:00 PM.
#12
My most recent setups. My last set up with K&N oiled filter.
My current setup with an AEM dry filter and 45 degree coupler to angle the filter toward the front.
Other than that, you can get an intake tube from Knight here on the forums. He. Makes them to eliminate the MAF housing and helmholtz.
My current setup with an AEM dry filter and 45 degree coupler to angle the filter toward the front.
Other than that, you can get an intake tube from Knight here on the forums. He. Makes them to eliminate the MAF housing and helmholtz.
#14
Like most cars built in the 'new' millenium, the Maxima doesn't actually benefit from 95% of the aftermarket intakes.
Claims made by companies are just that, claims. In actual practise, it's much more likely that you'll lose power with all of those intakes.
The best route is also the cheapest, remove all the stock baffles, make sure to leave a small water drain at the low point near the inlet, but the rest can go. You can use plexiglass and epoxy or rubber plugs to cover up the holes where you removed the baffling.
For the short piece from the Throttle body to the mid-pipe you'll need some sort of pipe the proper diameter that has two barbs/nipples coming off of it so you can still hook your vacuum and Crankcase vent lines up.
Before it's brought up, the reason I say 'new' cars don't benefit is because of much more intriquite tuning and sensors to control the engine more precisely. This helps build more power save gas and produce less emissions. Three huge things new engines must do.
Once you change that, increase the intake air temp (HUGE increse here with an SRI), and create turbulence at the MAFS intake screen, you effectively tamper with engine management, for the worse. The engine reads improper air incoming due to the turbulence, the increased temps retard timing which kills your power.
Claims made by companies are just that, claims. In actual practise, it's much more likely that you'll lose power with all of those intakes.
The best route is also the cheapest, remove all the stock baffles, make sure to leave a small water drain at the low point near the inlet, but the rest can go. You can use plexiglass and epoxy or rubber plugs to cover up the holes where you removed the baffling.
For the short piece from the Throttle body to the mid-pipe you'll need some sort of pipe the proper diameter that has two barbs/nipples coming off of it so you can still hook your vacuum and Crankcase vent lines up.
Before it's brought up, the reason I say 'new' cars don't benefit is because of much more intriquite tuning and sensors to control the engine more precisely. This helps build more power save gas and produce less emissions. Three huge things new engines must do.
Once you change that, increase the intake air temp (HUGE increse here with an SRI), and create turbulence at the MAFS intake screen, you effectively tamper with engine management, for the worse. The engine reads improper air incoming due to the turbulence, the increased temps retard timing which kills your power.
Last edited by TunerMaxima3000; 06-17-2012 at 12:19 PM.
#15
A few years ago, rroderiques77 tried to mod the engine bay of his 5.5 gen Sin City Max with those panels... and gave up. Which is saying a lot, because that guy put everything he had into his car.
#16
Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Manhattan Beach, Ca / Dallas, Tx
Posts: 3,751
Like most cars built in the 'new' millenium, the Maxima doesn't actually benefit from 95% of the aftermarket intakes.
Claims made by companies are just that, claims. In actual practise, it's much more likely that you'll lose power with all of those intakes.
The best route is also the cheapest, remove all the stock baffles, make sure to leave a small water drain at the low point near the inlet, but the rest can go. You can use plexiglass and epoxy or rubber plugs to cover up the holes where you removed the baffling.
For the short piece from the Throttle body to the mid-pipe you'll need some sort of pipe the proper diameter that has two barbs/nipples coming off of it so you can still hook your vacuum and Crankcase vent lines up.
Before it's brought up, the reason I say 'new' cars don't benefit is because of much more intriquite tuning and sensors to control the engine more precisely. This helps build more power save gas and produce less emissions. Three huge things new engines must do.
Once you change that, increase the intake air temp (HUGE increase here with an SRI), and create turbulence at the MAFS intake screen, you effectively tamper with engine management, for the worse. The engine reads improper air incoming due to the turbulence, the increased temps retard timing which kills your power.
Claims made by companies are just that, claims. In actual practise, it's much more likely that you'll lose power with all of those intakes.
The best route is also the cheapest, remove all the stock baffles, make sure to leave a small water drain at the low point near the inlet, but the rest can go. You can use plexiglass and epoxy or rubber plugs to cover up the holes where you removed the baffling.
For the short piece from the Throttle body to the mid-pipe you'll need some sort of pipe the proper diameter that has two barbs/nipples coming off of it so you can still hook your vacuum and Crankcase vent lines up.
Before it's brought up, the reason I say 'new' cars don't benefit is because of much more intriquite tuning and sensors to control the engine more precisely. This helps build more power save gas and produce less emissions. Three huge things new engines must do.
Once you change that, increase the intake air temp (HUGE increase here with an SRI), and create turbulence at the MAFS intake screen, you effectively tamper with engine management, for the worse. The engine reads improper air incoming due to the turbulence, the increased temps retard timing which kills your power.
#19
4" BPi stack
45º 4" Pipe
440's
Now I need a MAF housing and it should be done. Oh yeah and 2 intake manifold gaskets because removing that damn spacers and related RTV is for poop, going to just sack a gasket on top and bottom.
You sent a payment of $53.90 USD to BP Initiatives
(sales@bpinitiatives.com)
It may take a few moments for this transaction to appear in your account.
Merchant
BP Initiatives
sales@bpinitiatives.com
832-335-0319 Instructions to merchant
You haven't entered any instructions.
Shipping address - confirmed
Manuel Chavez
xxxxxxxxxx
Espanola, NM 87532
United States
Shipping details
Ground
Description Unit price Qty Amount
BPi 4in Flow Stack
Item# VS400600 , Decal: No Decal $44.90 USD 1 $44.90 USD
Subtotal $44.90 USD
Shipping and handling $9.00 USD
Total $53.90 USD
Payment $53.90 USD
Payment sent to sales@bpinitiatives.com
(sales@bpinitiatives.com)
It may take a few moments for this transaction to appear in your account.
Merchant
BP Initiatives
sales@bpinitiatives.com
832-335-0319 Instructions to merchant
You haven't entered any instructions.
Shipping address - confirmed
Manuel Chavez
xxxxxxxxxx
Espanola, NM 87532
United States
Shipping details
Ground
Description Unit price Qty Amount
BPi 4in Flow Stack
Item# VS400600 , Decal: No Decal $44.90 USD 1 $44.90 USD
Subtotal $44.90 USD
Shipping and handling $9.00 USD
Total $53.90 USD
Payment $53.90 USD
Payment sent to sales@bpinitiatives.com
It may take a few moments for this transaction to appear in your account.
Merchant
SIS Auto Parts
sales@siliconeintakes.com
800-617-5534 Instructions to merchant
You haven't entered any instructions.
Shipping address - confirmed
Manuel Chavez
xxxxxxxxxx
Espanola, NM 87532
United States
Shipping details
The seller hasn’t provided any shipping details yet.
Description Unit price Qty Amount
$29.98 USD 1 $29.98 USD
Subtotal $29.98 USD
Total $29.98 USD
Payment $29.98 USD
Payment sent to sales@siliconeintakes.com
Merchant
SIS Auto Parts
sales@siliconeintakes.com
800-617-5534 Instructions to merchant
You haven't entered any instructions.
Shipping address - confirmed
Manuel Chavez
xxxxxxxxxx
Espanola, NM 87532
United States
Shipping details
The seller hasn’t provided any shipping details yet.
Description Unit price Qty Amount
$29.98 USD 1 $29.98 USD
Subtotal $29.98 USD
Total $29.98 USD
Payment $29.98 USD
Payment sent to sales@siliconeintakes.com
You sent a payment
Transaction ID: 1JK32416xxxxxxx
Dear Manuel Chavez,
You sent a payment for $325.00 USD to xxxx xxxx.
Please note that it may take a little while for this payment to appear in the Recent Activity list on your Account Overview.
View the details of this transaction online
This payment was sent using your bank account.
By using your bank account to send money, you just:
- Paid easily and securely
- Sent money faster than writing and mailing paper checks
- Paid instantly -- your purchase won't show up on bills at the end of the month.
Thanks for using your bank account!
Your monthly account statement is available anytime; just log in to your account at----------
Amount: $325.00 USD
Sent on: June 18, 2012
Payment method: --------
Sincerely,
Transaction ID: 1JK32416xxxxxxx
Dear Manuel Chavez,
You sent a payment for $325.00 USD to xxxx xxxx.
Please note that it may take a little while for this payment to appear in the Recent Activity list on your Account Overview.
View the details of this transaction online
This payment was sent using your bank account.
By using your bank account to send money, you just:
- Paid easily and securely
- Sent money faster than writing and mailing paper checks
- Paid instantly -- your purchase won't show up on bills at the end of the month.
Thanks for using your bank account!
Your monthly account statement is available anytime; just log in to your account at----------
Amount: $325.00 USD
Sent on: June 18, 2012
Payment method: --------
Sincerely,
#22
Yes it is, but if going with a 4" intake, I'll need all the flow I can get with minimal adjustments via the AFC in order to maximize my timing.
Right now with the 3.25" intake, I'm zero % adjustment, and so my timing has taken a slight dip vs the time when I was using a 3" intake and was removing -10 - 12%, which netted a pretty good timing curve.
I figure when going with a 4" intake, and still needing to remove -12-14%, and still be in the 13.3 AFR range, I should be in good shape.
Although I know this wont be a linear 1:1 comparison, but right now I have 335's. So 440/335 = 1.313 And Right now I'm at optimal timing with a 3" intake, and want to upgrade to 4" , so 4/3 = 1.333.
Let's see how it all works out.
Right now with the 3.25" intake, I'm zero % adjustment, and so my timing has taken a slight dip vs the time when I was using a 3" intake and was removing -10 - 12%, which netted a pretty good timing curve.
I figure when going with a 4" intake, and still needing to remove -12-14%, and still be in the 13.3 AFR range, I should be in good shape.
Although I know this wont be a linear 1:1 comparison, but right now I have 335's. So 440/335 = 1.313 And Right now I'm at optimal timing with a 3" intake, and want to upgrade to 4" , so 4/3 = 1.333.
Let's see how it all works out.
#24
I thought the same until I heard about the Altima guys doing it, and of course Surra's intake is 4" also.
http://www.nissanclub.com/forums/rac...yesterday.html
Pretty much this entire page outlines it:
http://forums.maxima.org/all-motor/6...duction-7.html
From post # 253 onward.
#27
Same as the old one.
I thought the same until I heard about the Altima guys doing it, and of course Surra's intake is 4" also.
http://www.nissanclub.com/forums/rac...yesterday.html
Pretty much this entire page outlines it:
http://forums.maxima.org/all-motor/6...duction-7.html
From post # 253 onward.
I thought the same until I heard about the Altima guys doing it, and of course Surra's intake is 4" also.
http://www.nissanclub.com/forums/rac...yesterday.html
Pretty much this entire page outlines it:
http://forums.maxima.org/all-motor/6...duction-7.html
From post # 253 onward.
I kind of disagree with running mafs-less, so what the heck do we do for a MAFS then. And for me especially I'll need one that won't pegg out once politely boosted.
#28
I don't agree with that either.
Use a larger than stock size and you automatically, albeit a bit crudely, leave some latitude on the table for additional boost.
Last edited by NmexMAX; 06-20-2012 at 06:37 AM.
#29
Here, read this:
http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...take-pipe.html
I got a BERK pipe from evasive motorsports. (Comes with 2 rubber couplings)
Got a MAF adapter from eBay
got one rubber coupling from AutoZone
Got the velocity stack
Got AEM dryflow with 6'' opening
total price right around $200
The intake is AWESOME!!!
http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...take-pipe.html
I got a BERK pipe from evasive motorsports. (Comes with 2 rubber couplings)
Got a MAF adapter from eBay
got one rubber coupling from AutoZone
Got the velocity stack
Got AEM dryflow with 6'' opening
total price right around $200
The intake is AWESOME!!!
#31
Nope. I do feel a lack in the bottom end though, and it is hard to tell up top. It makes a wonderful sound but I am not sure of actual power gains if any. I do not plan on a dyno because I think it is worthless with just an intake. One of these days I do plan on the NWP spacers and some exhaust upgrades so maybe after that is done I will do a dyno
#32
Just curious what you were thinking of running fr a MAFS
#33
Originally Posted by djipka
Nope. I do feel a lack in the bottom end though, and it is hard to tell up top. It makes a wonderful sound but I am not sure of actual power gains if any. I do not plan on a dyno because I think it is worthless with just an intake. One of these days I do plan on the NWP spacers and some exhaust upgrades so maybe after that is done I will do a dyno
#34
Won't this destroy it's calibration?
And with that extreme of added air flow, even if it were calibrated for the new set-up, wouldn't it be likely that it'd pegg out?
Also curiousity about the TB, given a 4" intake and stock TB?
And with that extreme of added air flow, even if it were calibrated for the new set-up, wouldn't it be likely that it'd pegg out?
Also curiousity about the TB, given a 4" intake and stock TB?
#35
It is smart to do that but I am not going to care too much of what I push. I know the car is fast as it is. I am not a racer and I do not go to the track to measure tenths of seconds. Plus I can always stick the stock air box back in and run a quick dyno with it.
#36
#38
Larger diameter MAF housing = MAF is seeing FAR less airflow. In turn, this actually goes opposite of what you're thinking. i.e., a stock MAF can raise it potential ceiling by putting it in a larger housing.
Lager housing = lean AFR's.
I still have the stock TB, apparently there's this venturi thing people speak of. Also, cant_get_rye didn't see any gains with his 09TB.
SAFCII & the NEO (and of course UTEC/Haltech, etc) can scale the MAF, so that you don't have to make huge adjustments (add tons of fuel) while using a larger MAF.
In the past I ran 335cc injectors vs the stock 315cc injectors so I can gain a little timing from it. But I then went to a 3.5" MAF from a 3.0" MAF and was @ zero fuel corrections via my SAFCII. And from that I lost 4-6º timing all around. When using the 3" MAF I was -10-12% fuel correction and was at optimal timing.
So, my plan is now to use the 4" MAF with larger injectors and hopefully still be able to remove 10-12% fuel and still be at 13.0 or so AFR like I was when I logged my best timing curve.
My best timing curve:
My results from removing 4-6% fuel: Top = 3.5" intake, 13.5 AFR, 0% corr via SAFC, bottom = 3.0" intake, -4-6%, 12.5 AFR. Now you see where I'm going with this 4"/440's?
Famous quote:
Reference material.
http://forums.maxima.org/all-motor/3...g-advance.html
http://forums.maxima.org/all-motor/3...iming-mod.html
http://forums.maxima.org/all-motor/1...orks-fine.html
Lager housing = lean AFR's.
I still have the stock TB, apparently there's this venturi thing people speak of. Also, cant_get_rye didn't see any gains with his 09TB.
SAFCII & the NEO (and of course UTEC/Haltech, etc) can scale the MAF, so that you don't have to make huge adjustments (add tons of fuel) while using a larger MAF.
In the past I ran 335cc injectors vs the stock 315cc injectors so I can gain a little timing from it. But I then went to a 3.5" MAF from a 3.0" MAF and was @ zero fuel corrections via my SAFCII. And from that I lost 4-6º timing all around. When using the 3" MAF I was -10-12% fuel correction and was at optimal timing.
So, my plan is now to use the 4" MAF with larger injectors and hopefully still be able to remove 10-12% fuel and still be at 13.0 or so AFR like I was when I logged my best timing curve.
My best timing curve:
My results from removing 4-6% fuel: Top = 3.5" intake, 13.5 AFR, 0% corr via SAFC, bottom = 3.0" intake, -4-6%, 12.5 AFR. Now you see where I'm going with this 4"/440's?
Famous quote:
Originally Posted by nismology
The self-learn fuel trims take effect in closed-loop only. Both the a/f ratio and ignition timing both use a feedback system during closed loop so any change you make on the s-afc below 40% throttle will be useless. In open loop X millisecond injector pulse width and Y RPM will get you Z degrees advance @ BTDC based on a stored map. Less MAF voltage via pulling fuel with the S-AFC means smaller injector pulse width which means more timing advance. So to compensate for the smaller injector pulse width, you need to either get injectors that flow more or bump up the fuel pressure.
Reference material.
http://forums.maxima.org/all-motor/3...g-advance.html
http://forums.maxima.org/all-motor/3...iming-mod.html
http://forums.maxima.org/all-motor/1...orks-fine.html
#39
Thanks for taking the time to break this down for me Nmex.
I get that the MAFS reads lower due to being in a larger housing. That in turn lowers the delivered fuel, which results in a lean AFR condition. Is this right?
So you're correcting this by increasing fuel to compensate for the inaccurate MAFS reading?
The benefit to going to a larger housing with the Stock MAFS is that you get more Accurate Air flow readings (more linear) at higher flow (WOT)? Or is this jsut a good way to get around buying a new MAFS designed for the application?
And you're saying that the UTEC's can adjust for the improper MAFS reading, thusly allowing this MAFS to act as if it was one made for tuning (linear across a much broader range).
And still reading your links, thanks for those. I'm trying to figure out what you mean by pulling fuel.
I get that the MAFS reads lower due to being in a larger housing. That in turn lowers the delivered fuel, which results in a lean AFR condition. Is this right?
So you're correcting this by increasing fuel to compensate for the inaccurate MAFS reading?
The benefit to going to a larger housing with the Stock MAFS is that you get more Accurate Air flow readings (more linear) at higher flow (WOT)? Or is this jsut a good way to get around buying a new MAFS designed for the application?
And you're saying that the UTEC's can adjust for the improper MAFS reading, thusly allowing this MAFS to act as if it was one made for tuning (linear across a much broader range).
And still reading your links, thanks for those. I'm trying to figure out what you mean by pulling fuel.