SurraTT

iTrader: (59)

Ok sounds good, I'm trying to keep these in stock just contact me when you are ready to order.

TunerMaxima3000

iTrader: (4)

Happy to see this. That price is ***** to the wall insane, can you even buy one without a harness for that???

I do have a couple questions about this, that I've not had much time to research myself, but perhaps your answers would help others looking at this as well.

1. What WB's are compatible, or is it crucial that the Haltech WB's be used?

2. Why do you need 2 Widebands? This answer I've searched for. A lot of guys say you can run just one with no ill effects you just reference the other banks O2 sensor, or install the WB downstream. Is it because of the pre-cats on the Maxima/G? That's about the only reason I can come up with why it would be important to run 2 WB's

3. Can you think of any good resources to recommend for first time tuners? ie. "tuning for dummies" or any other how-to's for base tuning?








I am looking forward to when I can get mine running. FYI, most people pay well over this amount for Haltech's WITHOUT the harness, so I don't know how Darren is doing this, but you guys need to buy these up before he changes his mind!!!!!!!!!

SurraTT

iTrader: (59)

Other widebands will work, they have to have a one wire output. The Haltech widebands are calibrated with 0v=10AFR and 5V=20 AFR. Others are different so the right calibration is critical.


I like dual widebands because its a V6 motor. So one wideband in each header. There are afr differences between banks, esp at idle and cruising. When using dual widbands the Haltech can have corrections for each bank.


Hmm, I guess the best thing to do would read the user manuals a couple times. Then use the Haltech software and go to help there is a lot of help in there. Also my350z has quite a bit of threads on Haltech. But when it comes down to it, you can cause major engine damage if you don't know what your doing. There are a ton of Haltech tuners across the US.


Haha that's right! I knew pricing was a huge factor so Ive came out with great pricing. Ive done a lot for the community, and would like to continue to do so. So buy this system!

TunerMaxima3000

iTrader: (4)

Thanks for taking the time to answer bro, yo'ure a good man with a good rep on here, if you have trouble selling these at that price, something is seriously wrong with the .org.

NismoAce

iTrader: (6)

i agree. I am most deff getting one when the funds are right after my suspension. Right now the car is a boat on the highway.

Since you are god when it comes to pricing would it be possible to get the two widebands from you?

Also would the widebands replace the current sensors? Would the old sensors still need to be plugged in to avoid a check engine?

Same thing with the maf, does it need to stay plugged in to avoid a check engine while running with the map sensor?

You are forum god right now. We should have a member of the month or year so we can put you up for it.

Shift_Max

iTrader: (18)

Current oem o2 sensors will stay plugged in to avoid the check engine light unless you don't care about the light.
The oem maf sensor also stays plugged in since the haltech uses the intake air temp sensor that is built into the maf. You can remove the maf but will need to install the haltech iat sensor then.

SurraTT

iTrader: (59)

Np! Yeah that's exactly right!

Ok that sounds good.

This Haltech unit is a great price because of the newer unit that came out for the Z guys, that's the main reason. So the widebands are going to be about the same price everywhere you go.


The widebands should go in the headers. The stock o2 sensors should be moved down lower in the exhaust.


The MAF does not need to be plugged up! All thats needed for that to happen is a AIR temp sensor. And the right settings in the Haltech of course. EDIT: I actually like not running a MAF, it makes for a cleaner install. The intake pipe looks a lot better, and the little turbulence the MAF would make in the intake pipe is now gone.

Shift_Max

iTrader: (18)

And from personal experience the base map for the 350z from haltech even though it is rough is enough to start tuning. However for forced induction the map is not even close. Unless you want to modify that map a lot which at that point is better to either build a new map or find somebody that will give you a map. Or have a shop send you over a map for forced induction.

SurraTT

iTrader: (59)

Just so people know.


If you was to get the car dyno tuned. And did not want to get widebands. The car could be tuned on the Dyno wideband. And for closed loop operation the factory o2 sensors can be used, meaning ( idle, and cruising).

This is a option, but without widebands tuning would have to be done on a dyno with a dyno wideband only!

I would ONLY recommend that to people not wanting to do any tuning on their own. The money saved on buying the wideband kit would be spent on dyno tuning, so savings would not be much.


For the most part anyone buying this type of system will know that widebands are the way to go, and will probably want to do a little tuning themselves.

Shift_Max

iTrader: (18)

So you removed the OEM maf sensor and installed the haltech intake air temp sensor? Reason being is that the oem maf has the iat built into it. No SES for the removal of the stock maf?

wideband sensors > narrowband sensors that the maxima has. It is a good suggestion to spend the money on the dual wideband kit.

SurraTT

iTrader: (59)

Yep! Installed a Haltech Air temp sensor. Wired it to the MAF plug wires where the Air temp goes to the ecu. The Haltech has a table for MAF voltage output to the stock ecu so it don't throw codes. Basically that's for HIGH boosted cars to, so the maf don't get maxed out and the ecu go nuts. But im using it just to remove the MAF.


Well ya widebands are better, I was just letting people know that if their car was dyno tuned with that wideband. They could get by like that.

Shift_Max

iTrader: (18)

I figured that is what you did. But I never bothered messing with the maf voltage or tuning using the stock maf. I just went straight to using the map. However I was thinking of getting the haltech air temp but the stock iat sensor works great. The only reason I guess to remove the stock maf is if you want to clean up the piping. Otherwise people can just leave the stock maf and save the money that would be spent on the haltech iat and haltech wideband.

People do need to keep in mind that on the vq35, there is a difference between the two banks. Having the haltech wideband and 1 wideband sensors per bank lets you dial them in closer then using the tailpipe sniffer and getting the overall a/r of the motor.

And when you have the haltech widebandkit with 2 sensors, you can get the gauge which shows the exact a/r of each bank. It really does make things nice and easy and is worth the extra money even as a precaution to see how the car is running later down the road. And if something happens you can pinpoint it to which bank.

TunerMaxima3000

iTrader: (4)

I like this idea, a lot. Would encourage us all to contribute more also.


And thanks for everyone chiming in about 2 WB vs. 1, I'll definately be going with 2 after getting a better grasp on it.

So much money!!!

SurraTT

iTrader: (59)

Yeah, dual widebands are def the way to go. When fine tuning is done, the injector trim tables really come in handy. Just today i played around with them on Bank2 (injectors 2 4 6).

TunerMaxima3000

iTrader: (4)

It makes more sense on a maxima than a G35/350 to have duals, but I'll get them anyways.

SurraTT

iTrader: (59)

Yeah, the RWD cars actually have similar bank differences though.

SurraTT

iTrader: (59)

These are the plugs that are built into the harness. This is for the VoltageDrop.net Pnp Harness only

TunerMaxima3000

iTrader: (4)

^ That's handy to have

I just figured a FWD will have the firewall side bank much hotter, for obvious reasons, as such it will have quite different characteristics than thef ront bank.

In a RWD, it's the rear 2 cylinders that are hottest, but in that application, they're split evenly between banks (1 hot cylinder per bank), so dual O2's don't pick up this variable as they would in a FWD.

I would assume based on that, that you'd do more modifcation toa bank's properties on a FWD (maxima) vs. it's RWD counterpart.

SurraTT

iTrader: (59)

That diagram is for my harness only, NOT for the 350Z Haltech harness. I changed the plugs a little.

Eirik

iTrader: (2)

Holy craps. 300+ HORSEPOWER NA MAXIMAS!?

Sura... WHAT HAVE YOU UNLEASHED ON THE WORLD!? Think of how you are going to kill the Accord scene! Think of those poor suckers with their Acura TLs!




(Dynosty moved to my city! If any of you use them to do an actual tune, let me know so I can see what a hotted-out Maxima is like.)

CMax03

iTrader: (3)

This is an awesome system...Is there still a little bit of wire cutting to do like with the Intake air temp sensor? The Oem MAF sensor is useless with the Haltech? Is the MAF being utilized at all? I realize the WB are for tuning but do you replace the Oem (primary) O2 sensors with the provided WB sensor or do I need to fab in some more O2 sensor bungs? I would love to have this system just to fine tuning some of the parameters....I don't want to full control everthing just add a little here and there more like a piggy back system....is this setup more like a piggyback or straight standalone?

essential1

iTrader: (5)

We've been killing them for the longest time already now. lol

With this harness, it basically makes the haltech function as a piggyback. The only thing it does is intercept the essential engine control functions we need to tune with. As is, the oem MAF is retained mainly because the IAT is built into it. But it's still usefull for voltage readings to get an aproximate calculation on how much more or less airflow you are seeing. There is no wire cutting/splicing needed for this.

The other option is to run an aftermarket IAT sensor seperate from the MAF. SurraTT will probably build a plug into the harness for this if you ask him nicely enough. lol. Either way, it's easy enough to add it in after the fact. It might not look as pretty as if darren were to do it though.

You can eliminate the factory primary O2 sensors, but you will throw a code and you will probably have to tune (more than you would with them in) for closed loop operation. It is recomended to just weld a couple more bungs in and plug them in to keep the CEL off and to let the car control closed loop for the most part.

Cliff Notes: Haltech is technically a standalone unit, but with this harness, you can keep your stock MAF/IAT and weld a couple extra bungs in for your stock sensors and it will basically run the car like it's a piggyback while still retaining the benefits of the standalone functions.

maximatogo

iTrader: (2)

Dont know if I missed it, but can you pass emissions with this? BTW, pics of your work look incredible!

essential1

iTrader: (5)

Yes. Refer to my previous post. The purpose of running this inline with the ECU is for the most of us that daily drive our cars and need to pass emmissions.

Child_uv_KoRn

iTrader: (7)

Wait...I thought we were gonna toss the stock ECU with this? WTF do I want the stock ecu for? (emissions is not an acceptable answer lol)

essential1

iTrader: (5)

lmao. **** emmissions.

But he'd have to manufacture a different harness to run this as a standalone.

ranmas2004

iTrader: (2)

With my Haltech setup the stock MAF was removed and unplugged. Then an IAT sensor was welded into 3.5" intake tubing. I have no SES light from MAF removal because there was a MAF voltage table that was used and it tricks computer into thinking the MAF is hooked up and you can put different voltages into it to fool it. I have an active SES code because my Intake cam shaft timing is OVER advanced but that is how I want it because it helps to make more power. Im not really concerned about it though because when I go turbo it will get retarted a bit and put it back within factory limits so that the light goes away.

As far as O2 sensors go I have my secondary sensors hooked to a SIM chip, my primary sensors were removed from original banks on the headers and bungs welded lower into the y-pipe and they were installed there. Then my Haltech widebands were placed where the primaries were, on the Cattman headers and monitor each bank. The O2 sensor control is really nice because it looks at the primary O2 sensors and then attemps to keep the AFR near 14.7 during light crusing and idle. It works somewhat because I tuned that myself but I have not figured out how to get the right PID settings so that it works faster. It works but takes a while to get corrected.

I also have the Haltech dual AFR gauge which helps see AFR on each bank. Both the haltech dual wideband controller with 2 widebands and the dual AFR gauge are must haves for me.

Bottom line the Haltech 350z Platinum Pro system is a VERY powerful system. I only wish I had gotten it tuned right the first place to see what the car could REALLY do. Thanks to Darren I was able to learn how to tune and work with the software a bit and was able to correct quite a bit of things wrong with my tune such as the car running super lean when I step on gas, idling rich, bogging down after shifting and accelerating, etc. The software is VERY user friendly and it was pretty easy to tune with, I just need a dyno to see how the changes I made affect the power. However, once I go turbo it will be tuned correct and will be at the maximum potential!

SurraTT

iTrader: (59)

Thanks people for helping out!



Notes:


The Stock MAF can be left in the intake pipe.

I chose to remove because it was easier to add a air temp sensor to my 4" intake pipe then it was to add a maf flange.


The Haltech controls closed loop engine operation also. So if you have widebands it can use those for closed loop. Technically your stock primary o2s are not needed, BUT for emissions they are.


This system works with the stock ecu to retain stock ecu functions. On the Maxima this is VERY important.

This allows the system to work on Automatic and Manual cars. And pass obd2 inspection which for most of us is very important.

ranmas2004

iTrader: (2)

Darren. I think the stock primaries are important because that is what I use for the O2 sensor control. On the options it says "wideband" and "narrowband" and I was using the "wideband" option and it was making both banks go Opposite ways and act all goofy. I could not figure out why this was happening. Then I read the Haltech and it says that O2 sensor control uses your STOCK O2 sensors to help control light crusing and idle. It says that if you have narrowband stock O2 sensors then use "narrowband" setting and if you have "wideband" stock O2 sensors then use the "wideband" options. So I changed the setting to "narrowband" and bot banks are almost identical and I get that correction percentage now. Remember when we were looking at corrections percentage and it was pegged at 20%? It was because I was using "wideband" setting on O2 sensor control. I changed it to "narrowband" and now it corrects just fine....it just takes some time. So if you get rid of the primaries you might not be able to use O2 sensor control. This is what I found out.

EDIT:

Haltech Manual says:


O2 Sensor Type:

Determines the sensor used for the O2 control. Please check which sensors are fitted to your vehicle. Incorrect sensor choice may provide erratic O2 control."

Maybe the 09 Maxima engine came with widebands which is why your setting works on wideband. But mine won't work correctly. I have narrowband factory O2 sensors.

SurraTT

iTrader: (59)

That's not correct. All the narrowband sensor does is say if the AFR is at 14.7 or not. The wideband says what the AFR is. Your issue was your widebands where not setup right in the map, nor free air calibration. Also as you seen your "tune" was pretty much the basemap with a few changes.


If you have a choice to use a narrowband sensor or a wideband sensor idk why anyone would use the narrowband.


Exactly, you have widebands, so use them.


Side note: ON factory wideband Nissans the Haltech cant even read those widebands anyway....

edit: when the Haltech manual is saying widebands they are referring to the Haltech wideband inputs.


Like i said before, in theory you could get by with not running widebands, long as your car was tuned on the dyno with that wideband. Then after tuning is done, the Haltech could use the factory narrowbands for closed loop.




Having this kind of control over the motor can be very rewarding! But in the wrong hands it can be a disaster also....

ranmas2004

iTrader: (2)

OK, I see what you are saying now. All I know is that it works with the setting on narrowband and runs WAY better and get better mpg and the gauge is almost dead on as well. Wife and I just moved so have to unpack all these boxes before I can put the car in the garage, jack it up and take those widebands out to free air calibrate them. Might be in a week or so. SUCKS that it wasn't setup right in the first place.

SurraTT

iTrader: (59)

Cool!


First things that should be done for anyone with this system.


Free air wideband calibration (this is done on the Haltech wideband kit)

In the main setup of Haltech. Inputs, wb1 wb2 , 0v=10afr 5v=20afr

Also go to TPS tab and set them up. to set up 100% tps have the ign on but motor off. put in gear and this will allow the tb to open so you can get 100%.


This is just a basic setup that should be done before the car is even cranked up. Depending on each setup there might be more to do.

Shift_Max

iTrader: (18)

I used Dynosty for my final tune. But that was back when they were still in Lexington.

MAXIMA_STYLE

iTrader: (21)

Wow this is pretty sick..i must say.....you are the man!!! Now,i have a question regarding patch harnesses... i got a 99,runnin a 97 engine with a 97 ecu(cali emissions car-fed emissions engine and ecu).Can you make a patch harness for say.....a vafc2?? just wondering cause thats the only thig stopping me from to my finals stage of the 3.0....until i get my hands on a 3.5 CHEAP

SurraTT

iTrader: (59)

^ Wiring anything to a patch harness is worth it. Even a AFC. Makes the install easy and the uninstall a ton easier.

SurraTT

iTrader: (59)

There are few FWD VQ's running this system!!!


Boost or n/a this system is for the serious modded cars out there!

I30boi

id like to do a full swap i have an 01 wit 201,000 miles
any advice?

Douglas Tvrdik

so how much are the haltech pnp systems i cant find any prices

nestorlugo

iTrader: (11)

lol in the advertisement world that usually means and arm and a leg...

SurraTT

iTrader: (59)

msg me or email me. Darren@VoltageDrop.net

ive only got a few left in stock.