No spark in cylinder 4
04-08-2012, 09:04 PM
#1
No spark in cylinder 4
ok. I got a 5th gen with DE-K in it. I have two codes: P1320 - manufacturer code and P0304 - cylinder 4 misfire. I just changed the spark plugs yesterday with NGK V-power copper. Coil is known to be good. I swapped the plug with one from another cylinder and then the coil with one from another cylinder. So both are fine. I pulled the coil pack out and with it being plugged and with a spare spark plug I checked it if will fire when the engine is running and it did not. My question is what to check next, knowing that the spark plug and coil pack are good, but there is no spark still?
04-09-2012, 12:10 PM
#3
I gaped the spark plugs. Spark plug and coil are good. Wires and harness look good.
04-09-2012, 12:27 PM
#4
Member
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Culiacan, Sinaloa, Mexico
Posts: 263
04-09-2012, 12:32 PM
#5
Then check the continuity of the wires and check the inside part of the coil plug. Sometimes when the coil are disconnected a little of debris gets inside of the plug, interrupting the electric connection or sometimes when we reconnect the plug one of the pins of the coil just bends. The last one happened to me this last weekend
04-09-2012, 12:56 PM
#6
Each coil pack has 3 wires going to it. A red wire, a black wire and some other color wire that is different on all the other coil packs.
Unplug the wire connector from the coil pack. Using an multimeter or a test light:
Red wire - check that you have 12 volts when the ignition swich is in the on position.
Black wire - connect one lead of the tester to this wire and the other lead to ground. You should have a connection.
Other wire (signal wire) - connect one lead of the tester to this wire and the other lead to other end of the wire at the ecu connector. You should have a connection.
Unplug the wire connector from the coil pack. Using an multimeter or a test light:
Red wire - check that you have 12 volts when the ignition swich is in the on position.
Black wire - connect one lead of the tester to this wire and the other lead to ground. You should have a connection.
Other wire (signal wire) - connect one lead of the tester to this wire and the other lead to other end of the wire at the ecu connector. You should have a connection.
04-09-2012, 01:49 PM
#7
Each coil pack has 3 wires going to it. A red wire, a black wire and some other color wire that is different on all the other coil packs.
Unplug the wire connector from the coil pack. Using an multimeter or a test light:
Red wire - check that you have 12 volts when the ignition swich is in the on position.
Black wire - connect one lead of the tester to this wire and the other lead to ground. You should have a connection.
Other wire (signal wire) - connect one lead of the tester to this wire and the other lead to other end of the wire at the ecu connector. You should have a connection.
Unplug the wire connector from the coil pack. Using an multimeter or a test light:
Red wire - check that you have 12 volts when the ignition swich is in the on position.
Black wire - connect one lead of the tester to this wire and the other lead to ground. You should have a connection.
Other wire (signal wire) - connect one lead of the tester to this wire and the other lead to other end of the wire at the ecu connector. You should have a connection.
The black wires shows connection.
About the signal how do you get to the ECU connector? That will be a big pane.
04-09-2012, 02:46 PM
#8
Each coil pack has 3 wires going to it. A red wire, a black wire and some other color wire that is different on all the other coil packs.
Unplug the wire connector from the coil pack. Using an multimeter or a test light:
Red wire - check that you have 12 volts when the ignition swich is in the on position.
Black wire - connect one lead of the tester to this wire and the other lead to ground. You should have a connection.
Other wire (signal wire) - connect one lead of the tester to this wire and the other lead to other end of the wire at the ecu connector. You should have a connection.
Unplug the wire connector from the coil pack. Using an multimeter or a test light:
Red wire - check that you have 12 volts when the ignition swich is in the on position.
Black wire - connect one lead of the tester to this wire and the other lead to ground. You should have a connection.
Other wire (signal wire) - connect one lead of the tester to this wire and the other lead to other end of the wire at the ecu connector. You should have a connection.
My thoughts exactly
04-09-2012, 05:37 PM
#10
Member
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Culiacan, Sinaloa, Mexico
Posts: 263
- Identify the wire (color)
- Go to your ECU and find the correct wire in the connector (DON´T OPEN YOUR ECU and Be VERY VERY CAREFUL when you handle it)
- Test it
If even you don´t got a signal then maybe your ECU got a problem.
If you get a signal, then your harness got a problem in that wire.
04-09-2012, 05:41 PM
#11
I do not feel like messing with the ECU. Is it going to be a problem if I just run a small piece of wire from the wire that does not get a signal to another signal wire that works?
04-09-2012, 05:52 PM
#12
Member
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Culiacan, Sinaloa, Mexico
Posts: 263
Every cylinder got an ignition order. If you introduce a signal from another cylinder you´re going to f*ck up your engine!
If you don't got the confidence for handle your ECU, then go with your mechanic and tell him/her about your problem, be very specific about it.
04-09-2012, 06:16 PM
#13
Wait... Do you want to get a signal from another coil?
Every cylinder got an ignition order. If you introduce a signal from another cylinder you´re going to f*ck up your engine!
If you don't got the confidence for handle your ECU, then go with your mechanic and tell him/her about your problem, be very specific about it.
Every cylinder got an ignition order. If you introduce a signal from another cylinder you´re going to f*ck up your engine!
If you don't got the confidence for handle your ECU, then go with your mechanic and tell him/her about your problem, be very specific about it.
04-09-2012, 06:50 PM
#14
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2000
Posts: 805
Don't give up yet. I went to a place in my area called "Wire Wizards" You should have a similar place in your area. They repair all types of electrical issues. On my car the harness appeared to be bad as I got a constant (code P1273) even after purchasing all new O2 sensors,cat,and a MAF sensor. Wire Wizards rewired it for less than the cost of purchasing a new harness. Unfortunately for me the (code P1273) issue has re-occurred, but I believe the problem is coming from elsewhere. Your local Wire Wizards like establishment can check the continuity of your electrical system from your ECU to your plugs including all devices in-between. I hope this helps!
04-09-2012, 09:13 PM
#16
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2000
Posts: 805
Again, I would suggest taking your car to an automotive wiring specialist like the one that I mentioned (Wire Wizards) in my area. You should have something similar to Wire Wizards in your area as well. This will eliminate the guesswork and quickly solve your issue. The cost should be minimal based upon my experience with my harness. Good luck!
04-10-2012, 01:17 AM
#17
Again, I would suggest taking your car to an automotive wiring specialist like the one that I mentioned (Wire Wizards) in my area. You should have something similar to Wire Wizards in your area as well. This will eliminate the guesswork and quickly solve your issue. The cost should be minimal based upon my experience with my harness. Good luck!
04-11-2012, 11:25 AM
#18
The signal wire on cylinder #4 is a solid gray. This comes from ECU pin 30 on the 2000/2001 or pin 15 on the 2002/2003.
If you look at the connector on the ECU (passenger footwell), you will be looking at it as it is pictured in the FSM. Since there is a cover over the wires, you may have to unplug the connector to be able to test continuity.
Link to ECU connector drawing - look at top of page 5:
http://boredmder.com/FSMs/Nissan/Max...01/foldout.pdf
If you look at the connector on the ECU (passenger footwell), you will be looking at it as it is pictured in the FSM. Since there is a cover over the wires, you may have to unplug the connector to be able to test continuity.
Link to ECU connector drawing - look at top of page 5:
http://boredmder.com/FSMs/Nissan/Max...01/foldout.pdf
04-11-2012, 01:36 PM
#19
The signal wire on cylinder #4 is a solid gray. This comes from ECU pin 30 on the 2000/2001 or pin 15 on the 2002/2003.
If you look at the connector on the ECU (passenger footwell), you will be looking at it as it is pictured in the FSM. Since there is a cover over the wires, you may have to unplug the connector to be able to test continuity.
Link to ECU connector drawing - look at top of page 5:
http://boredmder.com/FSMs/Nissan/Max...01/foldout.pdf
If you look at the connector on the ECU (passenger footwell), you will be looking at it as it is pictured in the FSM. Since there is a cover over the wires, you may have to unplug the connector to be able to test continuity.
Link to ECU connector drawing - look at top of page 5:
http://boredmder.com/FSMs/Nissan/Max...01/foldout.pdf
04-11-2012, 03:19 PM
#20
Member
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Culiacan, Sinaloa, Mexico
Posts: 263
Thank God some companies can do a check up of your ECU and fix the issues that it got. It's not a cheap work but it's better and cheaper than trying to find an exact ECU for your car.
04-11-2012, 03:21 PM
#21
If you got continuity between the coil plug and the ECU plug then it's more probably that you got a problem with your ECU.
Thank God some companies can do a check up of your ECU and fix the issues that it got. It's not a cheap work but it's better and cheaper than trying to find an exact ECU for your car.
Thank God some companies can do a check up of your ECU and fix the issues that it got. It's not a cheap work but it's better and cheaper than trying to find an exact ECU for your car.
04-12-2012, 08:19 PM
#22
I re-checked everything today.
Injector is good.
Spark plug is good.
Coil is good.
Wires to ground, 12V and ECU signal are good.
Still no spark.
Any ideas where I can get my ECU checked or get it looked at?
Injector is good.
Spark plug is good.
Coil is good.
Wires to ground, 12V and ECU signal are good.
Still no spark.
Any ideas where I can get my ECU checked or get it looked at?
04-13-2012, 09:07 AM
#23
An interesting thing with our cars is if the timing chain is off one tooth, the cam sensors and the crankshaft sensors are out of sync and some cylinders do not fire. Did this problem show up just after you changed the water pump or timing chain tensioners?
I searched for "ecu repair fix" and found several threads with repair places mentioned. Then there is this thread. I have 'highlighted' some posts that I think are 'must reads'. You should read the whole thread though. It is a long thread.
http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...d-seconds.html
post # 5 explains what the chip does.
post # 27 has an ECU picture with a fried chip.
post # 29 has photos of the repair process.
post # 38 has photos of fuses being added to the ECU.
post # 70 states ecu repaired for $70 by autoecu.com
post # 78 states 2 places were the chip were bought.
post # 86 is another ECU repair place that charges $160.
post # 93 guy has a 2000 Infinity I30T & his ECU is slightly different.
post # 98 another guy with a 2000 Maxima has same ECU as infinity.
I searched for "ecu repair fix" and found several threads with repair places mentioned. Then there is this thread. I have 'highlighted' some posts that I think are 'must reads'. You should read the whole thread though. It is a long thread.
http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...d-seconds.html
post # 5 explains what the chip does.
post # 27 has an ECU picture with a fried chip.
post # 29 has photos of the repair process.
post # 38 has photos of fuses being added to the ECU.
post # 70 states ecu repaired for $70 by autoecu.com
post # 78 states 2 places were the chip were bought.
post # 86 is another ECU repair place that charges $160.
post # 93 guy has a 2000 Infinity I30T & his ECU is slightly different.
post # 98 another guy with a 2000 Maxima has same ECU as infinity.
04-13-2012, 02:46 PM
#24
I just bought the car, so I do not know any history of it. 
I am reading the whole thread you posted right now.
I am reading the whole thread you posted right now.
An interesting thing with our cars is if the timing chain is off one tooth, the cam sensors and the crankshaft sensors are out of sync and some cylinders do not fire. Did this problem show up just after you changed the water pump or timing chain tensioners?
I searched for "ecu repair fix" and found several threads with repair places mentioned. Then there is this thread. I have 'highlighted' some posts that I think are 'must reads'. You should read the whole thread though. It is a long thread.
http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...d-seconds.html
post # 5 explains what the chip does.
post # 27 has an ECU picture with a fried chip.
post # 29 has photos of the repair process.
post # 38 has photos of fuses being added to the ECU.
post # 70 states ecu repaired for $70 by autoecu.com
post # 78 states 2 places were the chip were bought.
post # 86 is another ECU repair place that charges $160.
post # 93 guy has a 2000 Infinity I30T & his ECU is slightly different.
post # 98 another guy with a 2000 Maxima has same ECU as infinity.
I searched for "ecu repair fix" and found several threads with repair places mentioned. Then there is this thread. I have 'highlighted' some posts that I think are 'must reads'. You should read the whole thread though. It is a long thread.
http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...d-seconds.html
post # 5 explains what the chip does.
post # 27 has an ECU picture with a fried chip.
post # 29 has photos of the repair process.
post # 38 has photos of fuses being added to the ECU.
post # 70 states ecu repaired for $70 by autoecu.com
post # 78 states 2 places were the chip were bought.
post # 86 is another ECU repair place that charges $160.
post # 93 guy has a 2000 Infinity I30T & his ECU is slightly different.
post # 98 another guy with a 2000 Maxima has same ECU as infinity.
04-14-2012, 03:21 PM
#26
I don't think so. The Consult would pinpointed the problem fairly quick, but I don't think it points out the component, just the module. There is the possibility that maybe a reprogramming could fix the problem, but I'm just guessing.
If you can get a Consult, hook it up and see. Nothing ventured, nothing gained.
If you can get a Consult, hook it up and see. Nothing ventured, nothing gained.
04-15-2012, 06:32 PM
#27
I read through the whole thread very carefully and although very informational I did not find anything to help me. People on that thread had sounds and smoke coming from the ECU, P0505 code for IACV, idle issues, some even mentioned having P0420/0430. I do not have any of those symptoms. I have P1320 and P0304, idle is fine, IACV works, etc.
04-16-2012, 04:14 PM
#29
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Apr 2011
Posts: 1
I have the same problem with 01 ae max but mine is #1 cylinder every thing you stated done to your car accured with mine still haven't figured it out, sent ecm to auto ecu for inspection they found nothing wrong with ecm still cant get a signal to coil, please sum 1 help us out, dont have alot of money to spend for always having problems with this dam car.
04-16-2012, 05:05 PM
#30
I have the same problem with 01 ae max but mine is #1 cylinder every thing you stated done to your car accured with mine still haven't figured it out, sent ecm to auto ecu for inspection they found nothing wrong with ecm still cant get a signal to coil, please sum 1 help us out, dont have alot of money to spend for always having problems with this dam car.
04-19-2012, 08:53 AM
#32
Get another ECU that is known to be good and swap it into you car. You swapped coil packs and spark plugs to eliminate them, so now it is the ECU's turn. I know that finding an ECU to borrow is going to be difficult, but that is the point you are at.
Maybe you should go back and double check the wire continuity while you are at it.
Maybe you should go back and double check the wire continuity while you are at it.
04-22-2012, 02:06 PM
#35
05-09-2012, 12:40 PM
#38
Member
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: somewhere thats not home
Posts: 104
swap your coil with another good coil like cylinder 2 if the misfire follows than its coil. its could be a injector. check you #4 cylinder resistance it should match with all your other injectors if not injector is bad. What year is your car? I am a nissan tech and have access to updated FSM and p1320 does not show for any 5th gen maxima. but i would check those injectors I think that would be the cause of your headache
05-10-2012, 10:36 AM
#39
swap your coil with another good coil like cylinder 2 if the misfire follows than its coil. its could be a injector. check you #4 cylinder resistance it should match with all your other injectors if not injector is bad. What year is your car? I am a nissan tech and have access to updated FSM and p1320 does not show for any 5th gen maxima. but i would check those injectors I think that would be the cause of your headache
05-10-2012, 10:46 AM
#40
I have to admit that I am at a loss to figure this out. If you checked the continuity of the wire between the ECU and the coil and found it to be good, why would you want to run a replacement wire?
But more to the point, you need to figure out if the coil is getting the signal to fire. And for that matter, is the fuel injector getting its signal? Theoritically you need an oscilloscope for this, but maybe you can see the reading on a voltmeter jumping around.
But more to the point, you need to figure out if the coil is getting the signal to fire. And for that matter, is the fuel injector getting its signal? Theoritically you need an oscilloscope for this, but maybe you can see the reading on a voltmeter jumping around.