Should I repaint? Opinions please.
#1
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Should I repaint? Opinions please.
Here's the situation:
An employee @ my wifes work backed into our 2002 I35 and cracked the rear bumper cover. Her work is going to cover the cost of the repair which is about $2000. Remember this is Canada, where auto parts are about double the price of U.S.
The autobody guy is a friend of my brothers. Naturally, I asked him about a couple of touch ups while he was @ it. He has offered to replace the hood with new, fix every blemish on the car and repaint for an additional $2500.
Here's a list of flaws: 3 dents in hood, small paint blisters starting @ both sides of the roof @ the top of the windshield, improperly repaired left front fender and mis-aligned front bumper cover from a fender bender b4 I bought it, clear coat starting to peel above mud flaps, 2 dings in right front door,rust beggining on right rear wheel well lip and a crease in the left rear quarter panel. (The average person would never notice these flaws by the way).
The car has 90k miles on it and runs very well. What do you think?
An employee @ my wifes work backed into our 2002 I35 and cracked the rear bumper cover. Her work is going to cover the cost of the repair which is about $2000. Remember this is Canada, where auto parts are about double the price of U.S.
The autobody guy is a friend of my brothers. Naturally, I asked him about a couple of touch ups while he was @ it. He has offered to replace the hood with new, fix every blemish on the car and repaint for an additional $2500.
Here's a list of flaws: 3 dents in hood, small paint blisters starting @ both sides of the roof @ the top of the windshield, improperly repaired left front fender and mis-aligned front bumper cover from a fender bender b4 I bought it, clear coat starting to peel above mud flaps, 2 dings in right front door,rust beggining on right rear wheel well lip and a crease in the left rear quarter panel. (The average person would never notice these flaws by the way).
The car has 90k miles on it and runs very well. What do you think?
#2
Is the car paid off? Are you happy with it? I'd say go for it as long as nothing mechanical needs to be addressed and you plan on keeping the car for a while. Low mileage+running great+new paint/no external flaws = damn near brand new car!
Now, if you have your eyes set on a new/different car in the near future, I wouldn't bother. I'd just save the money toward the future purchase and just fix the quoted damage to the rear bumper.
Now, if you have your eyes set on a new/different car in the near future, I wouldn't bother. I'd just save the money toward the future purchase and just fix the quoted damage to the rear bumper.
#3
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Is the car paid off? Are you happy with it? I'd say go for it as long as nothing mechanical needs to be addressed and you plan on keeping the car for a while. Low mileage+running great+new paint/no external flaws = damn near brand new car!
Now, if you have your eyes set on a new/different car in the near future, I wouldn't bother. I'd just save the money toward the future purchase and just fix the quoted damage to the rear bumper.
Now, if you have your eyes set on a new/different car in the near future, I wouldn't bother. I'd just save the money toward the future purchase and just fix the quoted damage to the rear bumper.
That's my dilema, I'd love a G37 in about 3 years time. This cash outlay, (read line of credit), would push that to 5 or 6.
#4
How bad are the dents that need to replace a new hood? I wouldn't spend $2500 if I were you. Have you try search for a used hood from junkyard? If you do, the rest would be just labor... to keep the cost low. Good luck.
#5
IMHO, take the $2000 your wife's employer will pay, with your $2500 - that's $4500. Now add whatever you can sell your I35 for, and that will get you a comparable in much better condition (saving you the work and risk of not being satisfied at the end), or on the other hand, it's a nice down payment on a newer car.
Now, if I only knew how to take my own advice...
Now, if I only knew how to take my own advice...
Last edited by EuroDriver; 03-28-2012 at 02:22 PM.
#8
From a financial aspect you won't see the benefit of the new paint job when you do plan on selling the car. Save the money.
If there is no rust, then I would just leave it as is. You'll be pissed if you repaint the car and get it all fixed up nice when you do ding or scratch it.
If there is no rust, then I would just leave it as is. You'll be pissed if you repaint the car and get it all fixed up nice when you do ding or scratch it.
#9
/me agrees with the last 2 posters above me. If you're planning on keeping it for another decade, make it look pretty and match up all teh paint, yes. But it sounds as if you aren't leaning that direction. Save the cash on this one, bro.
#10
Tell me about it. that's my color (QT1). I just had the bumper, skirts & trunk wing redone and besides the expense, it took the bodyman 2 days to get the paint, he ran out, and another 2 days to get 1/2 a pint more, while I'm paying for a rental all along. He was joking with me to save the masking tape because since it had pearl paint, it was pretty valuable!
Besides that, it's never as easy/quick as the body shop initially thinks...
#11
I agree. I could think of TONS of issues with my car I want to fix. However, a lot of things in life outweigh them. If you have a spare $2500 do it. But from a financial perspective it is almost never a good idea to invest money in a car outside of keeping it running. Priorities are subjective though. My 2 cents, sir.
#12
damn 4500bux on a 10 year old... It's alot considering all that is coughed at once. I'm the average modder spends the same or a bit less but its paid for little at a time - one mod at a time. I'd say save the cash and fix what's needed, maybe satisfy yourself to fix more minor things that really bother you.
#13
3 years is a long term plan, and there's nothing wrong with those. (I'd say it worked for me.) The thing here is that you're looking to affect changes to your car all at once, rather than a little bit month over month over year. So even though your Infiniti might look new again, will you be able to hold off spending more money on it because of things you want, rather than things you need? You know, to support this 3 year plan.
I know that reads kind of confusing, but there it is.
He's right. If you're going to trade it in, it won't matter. As for a private sale, you'd have to look for the right buyer.
#14
Since you mentioned a familiar next-car choice, here's one more opinion regarding long-term planning... now that I have the car I was planning on for years, I wish that I had bought it sooner. It's just that much better.
Seriously. There's nothing you could do to your I35 that would make you like it better than an G37S.
Seriously. There's nothing you could do to your I35 that would make you like it better than an G37S.
#15
You'll never recoup the cost of a total repair. Even if you plan to keep the car longer than the 3yr. plan, it still loses value via depreciation regardless of condition. That said, I suggest you repair the bumper cover as economically as possible & save the $$$ for your dream car.
#16
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I welcome the advice of y'all, (did I get that right?). I can get the wheel well fixed gratis while he's doing the bumper. I think this will be my direction. The main thing that bothers me longevity wise is the little blister @ the roof/windshield. That could get ugly.
I think what I really need to do is take a 37 for a test drive. That will probably make up my mind and I can stop diliberating with myself.
I think what I really need to do is take a 37 for a test drive. That will probably make up my mind and I can stop diliberating with myself.
#17
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[quote=Rochester;8417095]I've seen this I35 last summer. Even though spock has this laundry list of issues, the car is still in really good condition.
3 years is a long term plan, and there's nothing wrong with those. (I'd say it worked for me.) The thing here is that you're looking to affect changes to your car all at once, rather than a little bit month over month over year. So even though your Infiniti might look new again, will you be able to hold off spending more money on it because of things you want, rather than things you need? You know, to support this 3 year plan.
I know that reads kind of confusing, but there it is.
You're probably correct. With that gleaming new paint job those 10 year old wheels just wouldn't cut it any more.
I know that I said I didn't want to spend any more money on the car, but the incident occured and the opourtunity arose. Decisions, decisions.
3 years is a long term plan, and there's nothing wrong with those. (I'd say it worked for me.) The thing here is that you're looking to affect changes to your car all at once, rather than a little bit month over month over year. So even though your Infiniti might look new again, will you be able to hold off spending more money on it because of things you want, rather than things you need? You know, to support this 3 year plan.
I know that reads kind of confusing, but there it is.
You're probably correct. With that gleaming new paint job those 10 year old wheels just wouldn't cut it any more.
I know that I said I didn't want to spend any more money on the car, but the incident occured and the opourtunity arose. Decisions, decisions.
#18
Since you're probably going to sell the car in 3 years, just have the damage that was done repaired, and save the car to use for a winter beater, and save your future new car for better weather.
#19
New wheels
Summer-only Performance Tires
Coilovers
...and you'll have an amazing, whole new car that you're going to love all over again. But it still won't be what the G is.
There is no right answer.
#20
I am going through the same dilemma Spock, my black 02 SE has some rust starting in the rear wells and some areas that were poorly touched up, after an attempted break in before I bought it. It really bothers me, but I can't decide if it's worth painting a 10 year old car. I definitely don't have a G in the budget that soon, I would say I'll probly keep the max another two or three years. So repainting the whole car or just getting some repairs done are my options. I vote you go drive the G
#21
Rochester does bring up a good point... there is no right answer. It's all up to you on how much you like your car, and if you decide to keep it another 5+ years or not.
#22
I've got the same rear fender rust returning after having the car repainted under similar circumstances(e.g. wasted $$$). I plan to keep my car as long as possible, so my criteria are totally different. But I've got other priorities to get done before the fender repairs. For me it's a simple progression.
#23
You've gotten some exceptional advice, kudos to everyone who gave mature well thought out advice on this one.
Leaving me short on additions, I'll chime in with Rochester, your car when I saw it was relatively clean all around, in really good shape.
But... Being the picky guy I am, Rochester and yourself not too far off, or on par, at least, I think we can all agree that the rust was spotted without much looking. Despite the at-a-glance, and every day appearance, where it wouldn't be seen at all, when selling a car (your plan, in the next couple years), the potential buyer will spot that without issues, and the price will be driven down pretty hard due to it.
Now, chalk on 2-3 years, as you plan, that rust isn't going to get better Mark, it's going to get worse, fast.
That said, your car would net what, 8k on the market if you sell this year in the condition it's in? If you painted it, you might get 9-10k, but only if you sell this year, and the paint job is actually decent.
I'd buff and touch up the rust spots, and sell it, soon. This is a good reason why:
No matter what you do, if you've got your sights set on an upgrade in the next while, nothing you do will fix that.
If you are still in love with the I35, and had little to no interest in an upgrade, then I'd say it's a no brainer, paint it. Because you're already playing with selling, I think it's silly to invest ANYTHING in the car that won't net penny for penny or better return when you sell.
Also, don't forget this very important piece, if you fix just the bumper, or even, paint the whole car, someone's going to think the car was in an accident, and won't want to buy it. That's the automatic thought process. Especially if you sell within a close time frame to the paint work, it's suspicious, regardless of the "truth".
Something to think about.
Leaving me short on additions, I'll chime in with Rochester, your car when I saw it was relatively clean all around, in really good shape.
But... Being the picky guy I am, Rochester and yourself not too far off, or on par, at least, I think we can all agree that the rust was spotted without much looking. Despite the at-a-glance, and every day appearance, where it wouldn't be seen at all, when selling a car (your plan, in the next couple years), the potential buyer will spot that without issues, and the price will be driven down pretty hard due to it.
Now, chalk on 2-3 years, as you plan, that rust isn't going to get better Mark, it's going to get worse, fast.
That said, your car would net what, 8k on the market if you sell this year in the condition it's in? If you painted it, you might get 9-10k, but only if you sell this year, and the paint job is actually decent.
I'd buff and touch up the rust spots, and sell it, soon. This is a good reason why:
If you are still in love with the I35, and had little to no interest in an upgrade, then I'd say it's a no brainer, paint it. Because you're already playing with selling, I think it's silly to invest ANYTHING in the car that won't net penny for penny or better return when you sell.
Also, don't forget this very important piece, if you fix just the bumper, or even, paint the whole car, someone's going to think the car was in an accident, and won't want to buy it. That's the automatic thought process. Especially if you sell within a close time frame to the paint work, it's suspicious, regardless of the "truth".
Something to think about.
#26
Yea all his rust growth's were pretty small for sure, hence why a little touch up before they grow is right where I'd put it.
Albiet, perhaps I over estimate someone's pickyness when looking at a vehicle for purchase. That is maybe the case here.
Albiet, perhaps I over estimate someone's pickyness when looking at a vehicle for purchase. That is maybe the case here.
#30
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I won't be getting a new G37. Maybe 4 or 5 years old, unless things change financially in the next few years. I've pretty much talked myself out of spending the $2500. I think I'll just get him to touch up the rear fender well as he has to blend in the rear quarters to match the paint on the new bumper properly. I guess I'll just live with the rest and try and slow down any rust that pops up.
Thanks for the opinions so far.
Thanks for the opinions so far.
#31
I won't be getting a new G37. Maybe 4 or 5 years old, unless things change financially in the next few years. I've pretty much talked myself out of spending the $2500. I think I'll just get him to touch up the rear fender well as he has to blend in the rear quarters to match the paint on the new bumper properly. I guess I'll just live with the rest and try and slow down any rust that pops up.
Thanks for the opinions so far.
Thanks for the opinions so far.
May not end up perfect, but will keep it from spreading and probably keep you from wincing every time you see your car for a very long time.
#32
I won't be getting a new G37. Maybe 4 or 5 years old, unless things change financially in the next few years. I've pretty much talked myself out of spending the $2500. I think I'll just get him to touch up the rear fender well as he has to blend in the rear quarters to match the paint on the new bumper properly. I guess I'll just live with the rest and try and slow down any rust that pops up.
Thanks for the opinions so far.
Thanks for the opinions so far.
Assuming you're talking about a sedan, then a "4 or 5 year old" vehicle means you won't be pursuing this until 2013 at the earliest... which is next year.
That sounds like a good plan. Touch up, Save up, buy an '09 next year. At which point you should be able to find a low-mileage sedan for under $20k.
#33
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If you have any handyman capacity, you can probably fix that cancer spot yourself with little effort. Just sand it down, get a can of Rust Eliminator from a local parts store, paint the spot, and go over it with some OEM touch-up paint of your color code.
May not end up perfect, but will keep it from spreading and probably keep you from wincing every time you see your car for a very long time.
May not end up perfect, but will keep it from spreading and probably keep you from wincing every time you see your car for a very long time.
#35
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Although 2008 was the first year for the G37 Coupe, the AT version was a 5AT. It wasn't until the next year that they came out with the 7AT. 2009 was the first year of the G37 Sedan, regardless of transmission (7AT and 6MT).
Assuming you're talking about a sedan, then a "4 or 5 year old" vehicle means you won't be pursuing this until 2013 at the earliest... which is next year.
That sounds like a good plan. Touch up, Save up, buy an '09 next year. At which point you should be able to find a low-mileage sedan for under $20k.
Assuming you're talking about a sedan, then a "4 or 5 year old" vehicle means you won't be pursuing this until 2013 at the earliest... which is next year.
That sounds like a good plan. Touch up, Save up, buy an '09 next year. At which point you should be able to find a low-mileage sedan for under $20k.
#36
I have done several touch ups already for stone chips and another little rust spot on the left quarter. Trouble is, the touch up paint sticks out like a sore thumb, (to me). There are actually 13 variants of the KYO paint. It didn't know about variants until I went to the body shop and the guy pulled out his paint variant samples. Wouldn't you know that not one of the 13 matches perfectly.
#37
You have to get the Sport Package in order to get all the goodies that make the G a driver's car. Even more specifically, you would have to get a RWD-only car to get all the sport options: big brake kit, double-piston shocks, upgraded springs, limited slip differential, short-shift 6MT. If you get the AWD version with the Sport Package, you still get the sport rims, thicker sway bars, tighter steering ratio, and the sport seats... but that's it. In other words, if you go AWD, then don't bother going Sport.
Without the full sport package, the G is still a fine car, and the engine is 100% the same regardless. (Awesome, btw.) But it's the upgraded details that make all the difference.
Last edited by Rochester; 03-29-2012 at 12:56 PM.
#38
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I did get the touch up paint from the dealer. Like I said 13 variants. Some are very close, some are way off. When I get the bumper replaced, I'll be sure to score some left over paint for future use. @ least it will be the closest match.
#39
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Well then, here's some more food for thought on the G-sedan.
You have to get the Sport Package in order to get all the goodies that make the G a driver's car. Even more specifically, you would have to get a RWD-only car to get all the sport options: big brake kit, double-piston shocks, upgraded springs, limited slip differential, short-shift 6MT. If you get the AWD version with the Sport Package, you still get the sport rims, thicker sway bars, tighter steering ratio, and the sport seats... but that's it. In other words, if you go AWD, then don't bother going Sport.
Without the full sport package, the G is still a fine car, and the engine is 100% the same regardless. (Awesome, btw.) But it's the upgraded details that make all the difference.
You have to get the Sport Package in order to get all the goodies that make the G a driver's car. Even more specifically, you would have to get a RWD-only car to get all the sport options: big brake kit, double-piston shocks, upgraded springs, limited slip differential, short-shift 6MT. If you get the AWD version with the Sport Package, you still get the sport rims, thicker sway bars, tighter steering ratio, and the sport seats... but that's it. In other words, if you go AWD, then don't bother going Sport.
Without the full sport package, the G is still a fine car, and the engine is 100% the same regardless. (Awesome, btw.) But it's the upgraded details that make all the difference.
#40
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Every spring I scour the car for any problem areas and take a wire wheel on a dremel to them. Then prime and use the touch up paint and clear coat.