How long will a VQ35 oil burner last?
03-01-2012, 06:31 PM
#1
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How long will a VQ35 oil burner last?
My gen 5.5 has 128K miles and uses a qt of oil every 800mi. I don't mind adding oil every other fill-up or so. And I like the car. Barring a major collision I will probably keep the car even if I have to eventually have the engine rebuilt and/or transmission replaced.
I change the oil and filter every 3K miles with Mobil1 super synthetic, along with oil and gas treatment with Seafoam. Just changed the plugs last fall. Seems to be working. Never have a problem with the way it starts or runs.
My question is, how long will it last? What is it that eventually fails on a VQ35, and is it more likely to happen on an oil burner? Just wondering if I should expect to get 200K+mi. on this one, or if I should start planning my rebuild now.
Not gonna replace the engine with another stock engine, because it might just have the same issue with oil burning.
If I ever do have to rebuild, I think I will be looking for a mild bump in hp, like around 4 liters, some hotter cams, like from a 350z, and a tune. I will want to keep it reliable. I don't think I have an lsd now, so at that point I may replace the transmission with one that has the lsd.
I change the oil and filter every 3K miles with Mobil1 super synthetic, along with oil and gas treatment with Seafoam. Just changed the plugs last fall. Seems to be working. Never have a problem with the way it starts or runs.
My question is, how long will it last? What is it that eventually fails on a VQ35, and is it more likely to happen on an oil burner? Just wondering if I should expect to get 200K+mi. on this one, or if I should start planning my rebuild now.
Not gonna replace the engine with another stock engine, because it might just have the same issue with oil burning.
If I ever do have to rebuild, I think I will be looking for a mild bump in hp, like around 4 liters, some hotter cams, like from a 350z, and a tune. I will want to keep it reliable. I don't think I have an lsd now, so at that point I may replace the transmission with one that has the lsd.
03-01-2012, 06:39 PM
#2
Your first problem is using synthetic in an early VQ. If you're not hot-rodding a lot, switch back to a normal oil. If it's warm enough in Indiana all the time, I'd even consider running a 10W-30. That should reduce your oil use quite a bit. From what I've read here and from what I've heard from a friend of mine who is a Nissan Master mechanic and pro driver, VQ's eat synthetic for breakfast, lunch, and dinner!
03-01-2012, 06:46 PM
#3
06 Vq's dont have the issue and if so its very slight. My friends father rebuilt his and he was told the problem lies in the oil rings, the wear down also from what i have heard its the piston rings become worn. It can go either way, a rebuild with new parts is far more solid or swap it and call it a day.
03-02-2012, 07:41 PM
#5
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06 Vq's dont have the issue and if so its very slight. My friends father rebuilt his and he was told the problem lies in the oil rings, the wear down also from what i have heard its the piston rings become worn. It can go either way, a rebuild with new parts is far more solid or swap it and call it a day.
Yeah the 06 VQ would be a good idea if it ever comes to that. Thanks for reminding me. They can still be found with relatively low miles, and would probably be a lot cheaper than a rebuild.
03-03-2012, 06:16 AM
#9
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Your first problem is using synthetic in an early VQ. If you're not hot-rodding a lot, switch back to a normal oil. If it's warm enough in Indiana all the time, I'd even consider running a 10W-30. That should reduce your oil use quite a bit. From what I've read here and from what I've heard from a friend of mine who is a Nissan Master mechanic and pro driver, VQ's eat synthetic for breakfast, lunch, and dinner!
Your mechanic friend must have seen the inside of an engine that has had dino oil for 100K+ miles, and seen the inside of an engine with about the same amount of miles with synthetic. I have, and I have used synthetic ever since. This thing is gonna burn oil no matter what. I'm just thinking about all the extra stuff it would be leaving behind if it were burning dino.
I drive the Maxima hard sometimes during the course of daily driving. I autocross it and take it to the dragstrip maybe once or twice a year. But hot rodding? I have a turbo Integra for that.
03-03-2012, 07:22 AM
#10
I've tried it all. Dino, Maxlife synthetic blend, even tried Mobil1 synthetic 20w50. I actually do use 10w30 - the Mobil1 super synthetic I mentioned. It's less than $4.50 per qt when you buy the 5.1 qt jug. I use Rotella T6 in my other vehicles, and I would use it in the Max but it only comes in 5w40. One thing I have noticed that slowed down oil consumption is synthetic Lucas, but even adding 1/4 or 1/2 qt per change it just doesn't seem cost effective at $14/qt. What I may do is see if my Autozone carries the German Castrol 0w30 or 0w40 like some on here have reported.
Your mechanic friend must have seen the inside of an engine that has had dino oil for 100K+ miles, and seen the inside of an engine with about the same amount of miles with synthetic. I have, and I have used synthetic ever since. This thing is gonna burn oil no matter what. I'm just thinking about all the extra stuff it would be leaving behind if it were burning dino.
I drive the Maxima hard sometimes during the course of daily driving. I autocross it and take it to the dragstrip maybe once or twice a year. But hot rodding? I have a turbo Integra for that.
Your mechanic friend must have seen the inside of an engine that has had dino oil for 100K+ miles, and seen the inside of an engine with about the same amount of miles with synthetic. I have, and I have used synthetic ever since. This thing is gonna burn oil no matter what. I'm just thinking about all the extra stuff it would be leaving behind if it were burning dino.
I drive the Maxima hard sometimes during the course of daily driving. I autocross it and take it to the dragstrip maybe once or twice a year. But hot rodding? I have a turbo Integra for that.
03-03-2012, 07:32 AM
#11
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It's a roll of the dice whether or not your car is an oil burner, or not. If it is, the only way to fix the problem is an overhaul with new piston rings, unless there's some other magical cure that i'm not aware of.
03-03-2012, 10:33 AM
#12
Dude #1: My car burns oil.
Dude #2: Put different oil in.
Dude #1: I tried that, but I think because it didn't work the first time, I'll try some more, maybe THEN it will work.
Seriously dude your engine is the problem WTF are you doing. Fix it or sell it. Those are your options. I'd sell it
Dude #2: Put different oil in.
Dude #1: I tried that, but I think because it didn't work the first time, I'll try some more, maybe THEN it will work.
Seriously dude your engine is the problem WTF are you doing. Fix it or sell it. Those are your options. I'd sell it
03-03-2012, 12:28 PM
#13
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Another thing I did when I changed the plugs was replace the rear vc with a gen6 one. Nobody has mentioned an engine failure that was because of massive oil burning, so I guess that's good news. Maybe I'll get 200K out of it.
Once I eventually have a gen6 engine and transmission, I can just start following the gen6 forum and stop bothering the 3.0L owners with 3.5L problems.
And Autozone has German Castol 0w30 for $8.79/qt. I've been looking for that for years for my other vehicles. I'll probably try it in the Maxima at least once.
Need to start closely tracking the oil consumption anyway, to see if that vc made a difference.
Once I eventually have a gen6 engine and transmission, I can just start following the gen6 forum and stop bothering the 3.0L owners with 3.5L problems.
And Autozone has German Castol 0w30 for $8.79/qt. I've been looking for that for years for my other vehicles. I'll probably try it in the Maxima at least once.
Need to start closely tracking the oil consumption anyway, to see if that vc made a difference.
03-03-2012, 04:14 PM
#16
I missed that |^
There's a ton of VQ's that have blown because of oil consumption. They blow because they run dry of oil. If you're diligent enough and dont mind spendins a stupid amount on constant oil fill ups at every fillup then keep it going.
eventually you'll for get and spin a bearing, and if you keep driving, bang.
There's a ton of VQ's that have blown because of oil consumption. They blow because they run dry of oil. If you're diligent enough and dont mind spendins a stupid amount on constant oil fill ups at every fillup then keep it going.
eventually you'll for get and spin a bearing, and if you keep driving, bang.
03-03-2012, 06:49 PM
#17
I think you guys are making this worse than what it seems. Just open the hood every 2 weeks and check the oil. It takes about 10 seconds. Then full as needed. To me ours a total waste of money to change oil every 3000 miles in any car, even if it doesn't burn oil. A far as the 5.5 gen, you add so much oil to the thing you almost have a fresh car of brand new oil anyway. The only reason you change the oil on a 5.5 gen is because the filter get dirty. Just put a 8k mile filter in and change oil every 8k to change filter. Why waste money? I changed my filter 2 times last year.....oil is always a regular brown......because I'm always adding new oil. Just maintain your car and the thing will run forever.
03-03-2012, 07:00 PM
#18
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VQ's have been known to die due to an issue that ALSO causes oil to burn (I am to scared to mention the issue to avoid OT lol). Not due to the actual oil burning.
Although I said that assuming the post implied constant oil filling. IMO, oil burning until empty and causing engine failure is the owners fault. Unless a MASSIVE oil burn started over night.
Although I said that assuming the post implied constant oil filling. IMO, oil burning until empty and causing engine failure is the owners fault. Unless a MASSIVE oil burn started over night.
03-03-2012, 07:38 PM
#19
Yup agreed, every oil burn scenario is different. Some need a quart every fill up, some every month, some need one every day. It all depends on how bad it is.
I personally drive a DE-K, and can run 6,000 miles before the level on the dipstick moves at all
My point was, the lack of oil that would cause an engine failure is directly due to the excessive (relative word alert) oil consumption. It's not normal for a car's engine to burn that much oil, period. That's a problem, and that problem will lead to other problems.
So someone could say that the engine didn't blow up becuase it was an oil burner if they wanted. If they really wanted, they can blame a faulty piston ring design, failing Pre-Cats, etc for causing the oil burn issue that caused the loss of oil that caused the engine to spin a bearing that caused the rod to come out the side of the block in a furious rage
In the end the OP simply has to decide, keep the car and keep monitoring oil level, or sell the car while it's still a decent car and he can get something for it.
All too many variables in the decision, but that's a decision the OP should be considering, as should anyone who finds something fairly major wrong with their vehicle that they can safely walk away from without a loss.
I personally drive a DE-K, and can run 6,000 miles before the level on the dipstick moves at all
My point was, the lack of oil that would cause an engine failure is directly due to the excessive (relative word alert) oil consumption. It's not normal for a car's engine to burn that much oil, period. That's a problem, and that problem will lead to other problems.
So someone could say that the engine didn't blow up becuase it was an oil burner if they wanted. If they really wanted, they can blame a faulty piston ring design, failing Pre-Cats, etc for causing the oil burn issue that caused the loss of oil that caused the engine to spin a bearing that caused the rod to come out the side of the block in a furious rage
In the end the OP simply has to decide, keep the car and keep monitoring oil level, or sell the car while it's still a decent car and he can get something for it.
All too many variables in the decision, but that's a decision the OP should be considering, as should anyone who finds something fairly major wrong with their vehicle that they can safely walk away from without a loss.
03-04-2012, 06:04 AM
#22
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I feel I was pretty clear from the beginning that I am not interested in selling the car. "...I like the car. Barring a major collision I will probably keep the car even if I have to eventually have the engine rebuilt and/or transmission replaced."
And pretty clear that "I don't mind adding oil every other fill-up or so." Its just 2nd nature to me now. I've owned this Maxima for almost 45K miles. Plus, I've already been through the rod bearing thing with my first turbo integra engine. I found out the hard way that positive crankcase pressure in a normally NA engine causes oil blowby. Spun a rod bearing, tried to smooth out the journal with emery paper from under the car while replacing the rod bearings. It drove quiet (without knocking) for about 30-40sec. It eventually siezed up and I had to replace that engine.
And pretty clear that "I don't mind adding oil every other fill-up or so." Its just 2nd nature to me now. I've owned this Maxima for almost 45K miles. Plus, I've already been through the rod bearing thing with my first turbo integra engine. I found out the hard way that positive crankcase pressure in a normally NA engine causes oil blowby. Spun a rod bearing, tried to smooth out the journal with emery paper from under the car while replacing the rod bearings. It drove quiet (without knocking) for about 30-40sec. It eventually siezed up and I had to replace that engine.
03-04-2012, 06:10 AM
#23
Only way to stop oil consumption is to swap to the later model VQ35 engines, or rebuild engine. Both are expensive options.....but if you are keeping an eye on the oil then you should not have a problem.
03-04-2012, 07:08 AM
#25
I feel I was pretty clear from the beginning that I am not interested in selling the car. "...I like the car. Barring a major collision I will probably keep the car even if I have to eventually have the engine rebuilt and/or transmission replaced."
And pretty clear that "I don't mind adding oil every other fill-up or so." Its just 2nd nature to me now. I've owned this Maxima for almost 45K miles. Plus, I've already been through the rod bearing thing with my first turbo integra engine. I found out the hard way that positive crankcase pressure in a normally NA engine causes oil blowby. Spun a rod bearing, tried to smooth out the journal with emery paper from under the car while replacing the rod bearings. It drove quiet (without knocking) for about 30-40sec. It eventually siezed up and I had to replace that engine.
And pretty clear that "I don't mind adding oil every other fill-up or so." Its just 2nd nature to me now. I've owned this Maxima for almost 45K miles. Plus, I've already been through the rod bearing thing with my first turbo integra engine. I found out the hard way that positive crankcase pressure in a normally NA engine causes oil blowby. Spun a rod bearing, tried to smooth out the journal with emery paper from under the car while replacing the rod bearings. It drove quiet (without knocking) for about 30-40sec. It eventually siezed up and I had to replace that engine.
My question would be is it this car specifically that you like, or the Maxima in general? You can easily find another one, and if you play it right you could likely swap this maxima for anotherone without paying much if anything. This would solve your issue, pending a Compression test prior to your next purchase of course.
If you're stuck on this car, then just start looking around for a new engine, and in the meantime, keep topping up the oil
. At the rate you're currently losing oil you'll be good for a very long time yet. It will get progressively worse though but over a decent span likely.
In response to your unfortunate dealing with the Turbo, just so you know, no boosted car is supposed to have positive CC pressure. If it does, you've got a blown turbo seal, bad valve guides, etc, etc. There should not be positive CC pressure.
Last edited by TunerMaxima3000; 03-04-2012 at 07:10 AM.
03-04-2012, 07:52 AM
#26
I couldn't agree with you more! I just don't know yet if it's rings or just a cause of hardened valve seals...I haven't really heard actually fact from a dealership tech....I've read what the Super Tech/Pro driver so called said! I'll be changing my V/C, coil packs, spark plugs, etc! During that operation I will be performing a leakdown test cause there no smoking, I see no fouled plugs and I know I broke my engine in properly and didn't switch to synthetic till 30K....I see some oil usage at 135K now and I just monitor it weekly and I've added about .5 qt per 4000 miles....and I look forward to doing something about it if it's really a valve seal or ring problem! Man digging into this engine myself, or dropping in a 7th gen engine with a Haltech piggyback, or finding a reman by a reputable rebuilder with high end parts! If the source of the actual problem are the rings I would believe it could be the lower friction style rings Nissan went with when developing this awesome VQ35! The only fix would be going with some aftermarket higher performance pistons such as Cosworth, CP, etc and get away from the actual thin ringed Oem piston design...I'll see where my leaking source is real soon guys and I'll report back too yall!
Last edited by CMax03; 03-04-2012 at 07:55 AM.
03-04-2012, 05:29 PM
#28
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I like this car because it's paid off and seems to be running well at the moment. I like the 3.5L engine and the 6MT. Styling-wise there is nothing in particular I like about the gen6 better than the gen5, but sure, if I could trade even on an 06 Maxima 6MT that would be great. But in reality that would be about a $10K swing. And yes, one of the points of this thread is to see how soon I should start planning my engine rebuild/replacement. I guess if I notice the oil consumption rapidly increasing, I'll know I need to start getting more and more serious about it. Either way, replacing or rebuilding the engine is gonna be a whole lot cheaper than selling my car and buying an 06 Maxima 6MT.
03-04-2012, 08:22 PM
#29
Had the same problem, failed precats, oil consumption etc. Dropped in a 06 vq with less miles. Installed it cost me 1500$ and now I never have to check the dipstick between oil changes.
As Tunermaxima says it will eventually get worse but it'll be a while yet.
As Tunermaxima says it will eventually get worse but it'll be a while yet.
03-04-2012, 08:48 PM
#30
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^OK he brought it up, not me. But I am probably gonna install an OBX exhaust header soon. I do alot of engine braking (which doesn't help the oil burning) anyway. Seems like a good 350dollar insurance policy against making it worse for that reason. And its a mod I'll be able to use with my next engine.
03-06-2012, 06:26 AM
#31
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Yup agreed, every oil burn scenario is different. Some need a quart every fill up, some every month, some need one every day. It all depends on how bad it is.
I personally drive a DE-K, and can run 6,000 miles before the level on the dipstick moves at all
My point was, the lack of oil that would cause an engine failure is directly due to the excessive (relative word alert) oil consumption. It's not normal for a car's engine to burn that much oil, period. That's a problem, and that problem will lead to other problems.
So someone could say that the engine didn't blow up becuase it was an oil burner if they wanted. If they really wanted, they can blame a faulty piston ring design, failing Pre-Cats, etc for causing the oil burn issue that caused the loss of oil that caused the engine to spin a bearing that caused the rod to come out the side of the block in a furious rage
In the end the OP simply has to decide, keep the car and keep monitoring oil level, or sell the car while it's still a decent car and he can get something for it.
All too many variables in the decision, but that's a decision the OP should be considering, as should anyone who finds something fairly major wrong with their vehicle that they can safely walk away from without a loss.
I personally drive a DE-K, and can run 6,000 miles before the level on the dipstick moves at all
My point was, the lack of oil that would cause an engine failure is directly due to the excessive (relative word alert) oil consumption. It's not normal for a car's engine to burn that much oil, period. That's a problem, and that problem will lead to other problems.
So someone could say that the engine didn't blow up becuase it was an oil burner if they wanted. If they really wanted, they can blame a faulty piston ring design, failing Pre-Cats, etc for causing the oil burn issue that caused the loss of oil that caused the engine to spin a bearing that caused the rod to come out the side of the block in a furious rage
In the end the OP simply has to decide, keep the car and keep monitoring oil level, or sell the car while it's still a decent car and he can get something for it.
All too many variables in the decision, but that's a decision the OP should be considering, as should anyone who finds something fairly major wrong with their vehicle that they can safely walk away from without a loss.
03-06-2012, 06:32 AM
#33
There is speculation that the precats degrade and cause little chunks to get pulled back through the exhaust into the cylinder and causing damage.
While I do know this IS POSSIBLE, I have my personal doubts that it's the acutual cause. But many people seem to think so, and with some having personal experience with it, it's hard to argue.
While I do know this IS POSSIBLE, I have my personal doubts that it's the acutual cause. But many people seem to think so, and with some having personal experience with it, it's hard to argue.
03-06-2012, 07:48 AM
#34
Relax, the 5.5 gens burn oil thats a known fact. I had a 6 speed up until 27 February and it burned about the same as yours. I kust knew that I had to check the oil every 1000 miles or so even more if I drove it hard. I traded it in with 129k on it, not because of the oil issue but because of a surgery issue.
Just monitor your oil and drive it like you want. Btw, after trying different viscosities I finally settled on Castrol or Valvoline 10w40. I found that they seem to let me drive further before I had to add oil (900 to 1200 miles) compared to 800 miles when I tried synthetics or a 20w40 viscosity.
Just monitor your oil and drive it like you want. Btw, after trying different viscosities I finally settled on Castrol or Valvoline 10w40. I found that they seem to let me drive further before I had to add oil (900 to 1200 miles) compared to 800 miles when I tried synthetics or a 20w40 viscosity.
03-07-2012, 07:20 AM
#35
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There is speculation that the precats degrade and cause little chunks to get pulled back through the exhaust into the cylinder and causing damage.
While I do know this IS POSSIBLE, I have my personal doubts that it's the acutual cause. But many people seem to think so, and with some having personal experience with it, it's hard to argue.
While I do know this IS POSSIBLE, I have my personal doubts that it's the acutual cause. But many people seem to think so, and with some having personal experience with it, it's hard to argue.
03-11-2012, 06:00 AM
#36
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My I35 was burning 1qt every 900 miles unannounced to me...finally figured it out when I had no oil in her . I bought it w/100k and never knew about burning problem and switched to synthetic to add insult to injury. Anyway, got valve covers done, the oil filter seal, and switched to rotella t6 5w40 synthetic...now I'm at 1qt every 2000-2300 miles. Still have a slight leak in the oil pan gasket that needs to be addressed as well. Hoping to get another couple hundred miles from that...wishful thinking I know. I feel like it's much more do-able than every 900 miles and it helped me decide to keep the car. I've never owned a car that burned oil like this, but there's a first for everything
. Remember it's cheaper to keep her...I've learned this the hard way in the past. Also, with headers and a couple other goodies, she really hauls a$$
. I bought it w/100k and never knew about burning problem and switched to synthetic to add insult to injury. Anyway, got valve covers done, the oil filter seal, and switched to rotella t6 5w40 synthetic...now I'm at 1qt every 2000-2300 miles. Still have a slight leak in the oil pan gasket that needs to be addressed as well. Hoping to get another couple hundred miles from that...wishful thinking I know. I feel like it's much more do-able than every 900 miles and it helped me decide to keep the car. I've never owned a car that burned oil like this, but there's a first for everything. Remember it's cheaper to keep her...I've learned this the hard way in the past. Also, with headers and a couple other goodies, she really hauls a$$
03-11-2012, 07:55 AM
#37
03-11-2012, 08:18 AM
#38
^Yeah just saying to get an idea. But if a couple drops of oil evens compression ratings on all holes to great numbers, then there's really no reason to look further.
Dude, seriously, you posted 3 different EXTERNAL OIL LEAK Problems, that was your own stupidity lmao.
The fact that the car burns a little oil on top of that is not too bad. And 1qt/2000 miles isn't bad by comparison to many on here, and many other cars out there also, especially with higher miles.
My I35 was burning 1qt every 900 miles unannounced to me...finally figured it out when I had no oil in her . I bought it w/100k and never knew about burning problem and switched to synthetic to add insult to injury. Anyway, got valve covers done, the oil filter seal, and switched to rotella t6 5w40 synthetic...now I'm at 1qt every 2000-2300 miles. Still have a slight leak in the oil pan gasket that needs to be addressed as well. Hoping to get another couple hundred miles from that...wishful thinking I know. I feel like it's much more do-able than every 900 miles and it helped me decide to keep the car. I've never owned a car that burned oil like this, but there's a first for everything. Remember it's cheaper to keep her...I've learned this the hard way in the past. Also, with headers and a couple other goodies, she really hauls a$$
. I bought it w/100k and never knew about burning problem and switched to synthetic to add insult to injury. Anyway, got valve covers done, the oil filter seal, and switched to rotella t6 5w40 synthetic...now I'm at 1qt every 2000-2300 miles. Still have a slight leak in the oil pan gasket that needs to be addressed as well. Hoping to get another couple hundred miles from that...wishful thinking I know. I feel like it's much more do-able than every 900 miles and it helped me decide to keep the car. I've never owned a car that burned oil like this, but there's a first for everything. Remember it's cheaper to keep her...I've learned this the hard way in the past. Also, with headers and a couple other goodies, she really hauls a$$The fact that the car burns a little oil on top of that is not too bad. And 1qt/2000 miles isn't bad by comparison to many on here, and many other cars out there also, especially with higher miles.
03-11-2012, 10:01 AM
#39
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My I35 was burning 1qt every 900 miles unannounced to me...finally figured it out when I had no oil in her . I bought it w/100k and never knew about burning problem and switched to synthetic to add insult to injury. Anyway, got valve covers done, the oil filter seal, and switched to rotella t6 5w40 synthetic...now I'm at 1qt every 2000-2300 miles. Still have a slight leak in the oil pan gasket that needs to be addressed as well. Hoping to get another couple hundred miles from that...wishful thinking I know. I feel like it's much more do-able than every 900 miles and it helped me decide to keep the car. I've never owned a car that burned oil like this, but there's a first for everything. Remember it's cheaper to keep her...I've learned this the hard way in the past. Also, with headers and a couple other goodies, she really hauls a$$
. I bought it w/100k and never knew about burning problem and switched to synthetic to add insult to injury. Anyway, got valve covers done, the oil filter seal, and switched to rotella t6 5w40 synthetic...now I'm at 1qt every 2000-2300 miles. Still have a slight leak in the oil pan gasket that needs to be addressed as well. Hoping to get another couple hundred miles from that...wishful thinking I know. I feel like it's much more do-able than every 900 miles and it helped me decide to keep the car. I've never owned a car that burned oil like this, but there's a first for everything. Remember it's cheaper to keep her...I've learned this the hard way in the past. Also, with headers and a couple other goodies, she really hauls a$$Hmm. I use rotella T6 5w40 in my other vehicles. Never thought about using it in the Maxima.
A week or two ago on a chilly night when I really got on it, I happened to notice a huge cloud of either smoke or dust that I could see in the headlights behind me. I don't notice any of that in the daylight though.
I take back what I said about eventually following the gen6 forum instead of the gen5. Pretty boring over there.
03-11-2012, 10:16 PM
#40
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[quote=TunerMaxima3000;8396455
Dude, seriously, you posted 3 different EXTERNAL OIL LEAK Problems, that was your own stupidity lmao.
The fact that the car burns a little oil on top of that is not too bad. And 1qt/2000 miles isn't bad by comparison to many on here, and many other cars out there also, especially with higher miles.[/quote]
Well I think "stupidity" is a little harsh when referring to a first-time owner of an oil-burning hog like the vq3.5. I've owned and worked on a couple cars to different degrees and have never had a car burn through oil like this...hence I wasn't inclined to check the oil every 500 miles! And as for the external leaks, the car sat for a while and everything had pretty much dried up by the time I purchased it...the leaks weren't readily apparent obviously, or I would've addressed them on the spot. It started right up, purred like a kitten, and had plenty of power...I figured I was good for a while. Fresh mobil 5w30 synthetic with filter went in and I burned through 3.5 quarts in barely 2 months. Worst part was there really were no huge oil spots under the car, weird noises (until near empty), or funny smells, so I wasn't inclined to pop the hood. Long story short it was lack of knowledge and research on my part in respect to these cars...not stupidity sir.
And to OP check every inch of the block for leaking oil (including spark plug wells) and fix it...if you haven't already. Aside from this I fully believe that the switch to rotella t6 5w40 helped with the blow-by. There should have been puddles under my car considering how much oil I lost initially, but instead it just oozed out of my leaky gaskets and bad oil filter o-ring (resulted in random drops throughout my commute). The rest had to go somewhere...and I suspect it went right on by those scoured piston rings and seals. I also threw in a bottle of auto-rx, which is some kind of additive that cleans the engine without harsh detergents to maintain seal integrity. Not sure if it worked on it's own or in conjunction, but collectively they slowed my consumption.
Dude, seriously, you posted 3 different EXTERNAL OIL LEAK Problems, that was your own stupidity lmao.
The fact that the car burns a little oil on top of that is not too bad. And 1qt/2000 miles isn't bad by comparison to many on here, and many other cars out there also, especially with higher miles.[/quote]
Well I think "stupidity" is a little harsh when referring to a first-time owner of an oil-burning hog like the vq3.5. I've owned and worked on a couple cars to different degrees and have never had a car burn through oil like this...hence I wasn't inclined to check the oil every 500 miles! And as for the external leaks, the car sat for a while and everything had pretty much dried up by the time I purchased it...the leaks weren't readily apparent obviously, or I would've addressed them on the spot. It started right up, purred like a kitten, and had plenty of power...I figured I was good for a while. Fresh mobil 5w30 synthetic with filter went in and I burned through 3.5 quarts in barely 2 months. Worst part was there really were no huge oil spots under the car, weird noises (until near empty), or funny smells, so I wasn't inclined to pop the hood. Long story short it was lack of knowledge and research on my part in respect to these cars...not stupidity sir.
And to OP check every inch of the block for leaking oil (including spark plug wells) and fix it...if you haven't already. Aside from this I fully believe that the switch to rotella t6 5w40 helped with the blow-by. There should have been puddles under my car considering how much oil I lost initially, but instead it just oozed out of my leaky gaskets and bad oil filter o-ring (resulted in random drops throughout my commute). The rest had to go somewhere...and I suspect it went right on by those scoured piston rings and seals
. I also threw in a bottle of auto-rx, which is some kind of additive that cleans the engine without harsh detergents to maintain seal integrity. Not sure if it worked on it's own or in conjunction, but collectively they slowed my consumption.