foodmanry

iTrader: (15)

I have a 2k auto with 230,000 miles and developed oil leaks over time. I took care of two of them already (valve cover and camshaft position sensor), but i have two left. One of them seems like an easy fix, but I cannot find the part and/or o-ring in the parts diagram for the life of me. The other leak appears to be the rear main seal, or perhaps lip seal?

LEAK #1

Coming from the sensor/switch above the oil pan drain plug. See the pictures below (two slightly different views) with the part circled in red. What is this part called and what diagram is it on? I can't find it. I need the sensor/switch o-ring (if there is one) and the rubber cover since the old one is cracked.





LEAK #2

This appears to be the rear main seal or lip seal. Oil is dripping out of the rear cover plate to the flywheel. I won't be doing this one myself. What would it take for a shop to do this on our cars? In my research on here I have seen people say you just need to remove the upper oil pan (remove the y-pipe and cross member) to get to it. What would be the difference if it was just the lip seal versus the rear main seal? I just want approximate costs here a shop may charge. The leak is getting to be pretty bad as you can see from the pictures below so I will need to take care of it sometime in the near future.

Diagram of the parts. #1 is the rear main seal and #2 is the lip seal. Anything I can do to determine which is the cause of the leak without pulling it apart?

cjandura

iTrader: (3)

I think thats the oil pressure switch circled in the first one.feel free to smack me if im wrong

foodmanry

iTrader: (15)

I'm pretty sure you are correct cjandura. I'm going to have to walk through it with the parts guy. I just hope I don't get some junior level guy who doesn't know a screw from a bolt.

Any additional insight to the second leak from anyone would be much appreciated.

L36

iTrader: (4)

First, oil pressure sensor, second is the rear main seal. You will need to remove the trans, some also say you need to remove the upper oil pan to fix that leak, but its doable without removing the upper oil pan.

Doable. Most cases you will need to remove the upper oil pan. Its going to cost ya. Rear main seal usually fails if you put too much oil and you hit high RPM (5K+) often or age.

foodmanry

iTrader: (15)

Thanks. Do you think it may be possible it is not the rear main seal and rather just the lip seal? Is there is any difference in the labor associated with the rear main seal and lip seal?

nelledge

iTrader: (6)

I would bet money that if one is leaking and not the other, it is the lip seal that is leaking. Also, the lip seal requires less labor. It's almost always the lip seals. Count on dropping the upper oil pan.

foodmanry

iTrader: (15)

Thank you for the input nelludge. I have some discussing to do with my shop. They are pretty good about negotiating on price, but it will be low priority.

I'm assuming if it's the lip seal or the rear main seal they will have to drain my ATF? I ask because I just drained and dropped the pan filling it up with almost $60 of synthetic ATF.

nelledge

iTrader: (6)

No problem. I've dropped a few of these pans and it's always the damn lip seals that dry up and leak. The upper pan must be dropped, but the trans can stay in place for those. The RMS, however, requires removal of the transmission. I replaced the RMS at 120k on my 5.5, but only because I had the flywheel off during a clutch job. The old RMS wasn't leaking at all. I thought wth and changed it for preventive maintenance since I was in there already.

foodmanry

iTrader: (15)

Cool, I'll hope for the best (lip seal) and plan for the worst (rear main seal).

BigLou55

iTrader: (6)

im curious to know what you leak have as well. I have the same exact leak and cannot tell if its the lip seal or the RMS. At shops I hve be quoted a little less than $400 for lip seal and as much as $1200 for the RMS, and that wasnt even the dealer(they said $1090).

L36

iTrader: (4)

If you're there, drop the upper oil pan and replace lip and seal to avoid crap in the future. It all depends how long you want to keep that car for, i does have a good number of miles. Do it once, do it right.

foodmanry

iTrader: (15)

You are right L36, might as well do both if it is the RMS and maybe even if it is just the lip seal. I will be holding off on it for now because the leak isn't that bad and I just emptied and refilled my tranny with synthetic ATF.

I'll just keep an eye on it and if it gets out of hand then I have a decision to make.

Thank you for the input.

cjandura

iTrader: (3)

im actually doing all 3 seals on my 97 max at the moment just because after i pulled the bad trans out i noticed a few little drips coming from the rms and sense while changing the waterpump the other day i dropped a tensioner screw down in the cover i have to pull the cover off so while im at it ill now be changing front and rear seals all around.stupid fat fingers get you in trouble every time!

foodmanry

iTrader: (15)

FUN! I hear you on the fat fingers...they have been my demise on a few occasions. Part of the reason I don't do a lot of work on my own Max anymore.

foodmanry

iTrader: (15)

Another question...I picked up the oil pressure switch and see there is no o-ring or gasket. All you have are the threads into the oil pan.

Can I use permatex black RTV gasket maker to seal the threads when I install the new switch?

One more question unrelated to the oil leaks. The gasket on the underside of the brake fluid reservoir cap is cut/damaged/cracked. Is there any sealant I can use on this (brake fluid is very corrosive) or should I just pony up the $20 for the cap? Unfortunately, they don't sell the gasket separately.

kukx30de

iTrader: (4)

Subscribed!

I'm in the same boat, 01 GLE with 205K and leak at the same spot between engine and trans. The leak is just annoying its not bad. I put down a 4X4 ft of plastic in the garage and I have a few drops every couple days but i'm not seeing a drastic drop in oil level.
I top off oil say once in 3-4 weeks with about half a cup of oil.

cjandura

iTrader: (3)

hunt down some O rings and a seal for that cap at a home depot or ace hardware i gound the one for the brake cap at ace in the misc hardware bins

foodmanry

iTrader: (15)

I'll check out Ace Hardware. They usually have good stuff. I just don't know if they would have gasket material which holds up to brake fluid. The last thing I want is a gasket cracking and crumbling into my brake fluid.

cjandura

iTrader: (3)

anything thats made for hydralic fluid will work if you look the seal is only for the outter lip

foodmanry

iTrader: (15)

Got it, thanks for the tips