BobPezz

iTrader: (5)

Good point! I checked and just have the 'hats' and rubber rings, will have to add bearings to the list.

Might take you up on that if necessary.

djfrestyl

iTrader: (89)

Rubber rings? The ones that are about 7 inches in diameter? Those aren't necessary to replace.

Please do so! Shoot me a PM.

djfrestyl

iTrader: (89)

H&R's are fantastic. Excellent ride quality. Moderate drop. Not recommended for those that have heavy sub boxes in the trunk, as some feel the rear 'sags' - but perfect for everyone else.

T_Behr904

Thanks for the info. No sub boxes here.

LongoTE

This seems like just the thread for me.

First I just was wondering what a squeak in the rear may be. When reversig out of the driveway in the morning there's a squeak from the rear and sometimes when going over bumpy corners it might to a little song of squeaks.

And secondly is my more concerning issue. It seems as if the front of my car is "loose" over bumps especially when through a turn. The ride is semi-harsh and there is a clunk on just about every bump that needs to absorb an impact so I'm thinking the struts are shot. When going around a rotary over cracks in the pavement it almost feels as if the front end is just wobbling around. Also pulling into my driveway makes smaller but similar clunk.

Tomorrow I'm going to have the car jacked up to check for any play in the swaybar and hope I can just replace some Bushings. But looking at the all stock 122k mile suspension with some deteriorated rubber "billows" that slide around on the shock I'm thinking I'm on borrowed time. I'll try to get some video and a picture of the noises and condition of the "billow" part that is on the shock.

Finchum

Hello DJ, new owner of a 5.5(as of saturday) and member here but a heavily seasoned Nissan/Infiniti modification specialist (sentras/altimas/350/g35s/m45s)

I have H&R's in the mail and I just want to know what is recommended to replace while in there? I know for sure that each dust boot is torn in half and the passenger tie rod end is shot.

Just really need to know what bushings/parts to check and what is best for each to replace with(oem or aftermarket). I just need a quick jumpstart into the maxima game so I can move quickly/comfortably into my new home here on the org.

Thanks for the assistance, the springs should be here by the weekend. So i will need to know what to order by today to get everything in time for a saturday install. Email me if you want

djfrestyl

iTrader: (89)

For the rear it really can't be too many things. It's most likely something strut related - possible that your dustboots are so far gone that a rubber shred got stuck in the bumpstop, or possibly even the strut seal (yes, I've seen it)

As for the front - definitely post a vid, it will help tremendously.

I'm going to assume you're on a full OEM suspension. With H&R springs, get a full set of KYB GR-2's (now also renamed to Excel-G)

Definitely get a full set of OEM dustboots. Lastly, get a pair of front Moog strut mounts - part # is K90655.

That'll be all you need for the spring/strut job itself. If you're doing tie rod ends (outers?) get a pair of Moog outer tie rod ends.

Start there. The next step will be sway bar end links and sway bar bushings afterwards. We'll help you with a logical progression (with recommended parts) as you continue to upgrade your sloppy supension.

02whitemaximase

iTrader: (38)

I just put my oem springs back on in the rear with the Illumina struts. The rake is much better. The rear sits almost 1/2" higher than the front which still has the eibachs installed. I am running the 18" G35 rims. I definitely recommend oem springs in the rear. Feels better, looks better and NO rubbing with larger rims/tires.

Quick question with the rear top strut bolt. That damn nut would tighten down all the way to the end of the threads and I would not come close to reaching the torque specs for it. There would be about 2 inches of threads showing, which I think is ridiculous. I backed the nut back to only show about 3/4" of threads on both sides. Everything feels fine and the nut isn't loose but I would not say it is really tight either. How far do you tighten those nuts? Thanks.

djfrestyl

iTrader: (89)

There's usually about 1.5" of threads showing.

Your strut piston was probably spinning. You're going to have to CAREFULLY find a way to hold the strut piston - with vice grips and a towel, in order to prevent it from spinning, while you tighten that rear nut down. DO NOT scratch the strut piston.

02whitemaximase

iTrader: (38)

The piston was not spinning. The nut would keep tightening down the threads, I jst don't ever remember that much of the piston threads showing when I took the eibachs off or even the stock struts off a couple of years ago. I there any harm in only leaving 1/2" of threads showing as opposed to 1.5". The nut won't back itself off but I am interested.

djfrestyl

iTrader: (89)

The only harm I see is the nut not actually being tightened down all the way. If you were able to get it down to 1.5", then where did the 3/4" of thread go when you backed it out to 3/4"? It must have gone somewhere, no?

Famz767

iTrader: (4)

Ok,first off thnx again for spare tire cover..... Now onto suspension issues,i have a 5.5th gen on Tein SS coilovers n I get this rubbing noise on rear passenger side wen I go over big bumps with 1 or more ppl sitting in the back,my outer tire isnt touching fender....im not slammed.....i think tire is rubbing wheel well but I cant be sure.....any help a be appreciated thnx

djfrestyl

iTrader: (89)

Are you SURE you're not rubbing against the fender?

What do you mean 'tire is rubbing wheel' - this doesn't make much sense.

02whitemaximase

iTrader: (38)

The thread is the piston so I guess that just means there is a little more piston in the bottom housing. I feel like a car with lowering springs should show more threads because there is less piston travel due to the shorter springs. Since I put the stock springs back on I think the piston needs more length due to more travel allowed so that is why I decided not to tighten the nut to show as much threads as when the eibachs were on. I wonder if leaving more threads showing would affect the feel? Does the piston become harder to compress the more it is compressed? Maybe it would be a softer ride if you left less threads showing? All conjecture here.

Famz767

iTrader: (4)

No marks on tire,si im assuming its not rubbing fender,had them rolled n still makes noise wen I go over bumps...have stock 350z track V1's in the bacj on 245 40 18.....wen no ones in the back n I go over bump no noise,same bump with lets say 120lb passenger in the back,it rubs ????

djfrestyl

iTrader: (89)

Yes, the piston is threaded. I disagree - the strut naturally pushes the piston out, so if there is extra thread, it doesn't magically absorb that much of the piston.

This is valid - but only in theory. There should be NO extra threads. You should tighten the nut until you can tighten no more.

Here's why.

Did you notice a retaining ring welded to the piston - near the top? The OEM boot rests just so that the top is flush with the top of that ring. Then the metal 'up-side-down cup' sits on top of the ring - no extra play there. Then the lower bushing goes on...which happens to have a metal sleeve going through it, the bottom of which, sits on top of the upside down cup - so no play, again. Then the mount goes on, but the sleeve continues through it. Then the upper bushing goes on - which protrudes past the end of the sleeve, then the large metal washer, then the nut. The ONLY place you'll have movement is maybe about 1/4" - 1/2" between the end of the sleeve and the metal washer - but if you tighten properly, that upper bushing gets 'squashed' to reduce any extra movement, until you can tighten no more.

Yes - something is loose. There is movement somewhere.

You're talking about pushing the piston in. Here the threading is pulling the piston out as far as it can go - so this is irrelevant. Less vs more threads would not imply anything. The amount shown should be the same regardless of spring height. It should simply be tight.

djfrestyl

iTrader: (89)

Yea, someone in the back is enough to make it rub.

What I'd also do is re-center your rear beam.

LongoTE

Here's a link to a high res album of the different parts of my front end. Some of you will cringe but im open to hearing it all.

http://imgur.com/a/OOn3u/all#0
(9 images, Somehow uploaded twice so 18 images)


If you see a part i should replace let me know what its called, because to me it seems like it all needs to go. The rust will probably cause some issues too.

the tie rod is firm and the balljoint didnt seem to move when prying around it with a metal rod but the visual condition was....concerning.

jojo_pablo

Tryin 2 lower my 03 max, can anyone help me out?

cjandura

iTrader: (3)

Sir i believe you need to make an appointment to see Dr. DJ the suspension Chiropractor!

LongoTE

I think I a need a surgeon.

TunerMaxima3000

iTrader: (4)

Swap the towel for an old belt or other thin piece of rubber, it'll hold better.
They actually make tools for clamping down on the shaft without damaging it too, I've never used one though but they look handy. Better than some of the crazy stuff you need to hold the allen head or whatever

LongoTE

Wow, now i'm a lot more concerned. In person the sound is just a thud but now that i have it captured on video, the noise matches what you imagine it might feel like. The tiny "rattle" you hear is the iPhone auto focus lens rattling around.
This makes me cringe just watching it over again.



and again heres a link to the album of pictures i took earlier today http://imgur.com/a/OOn3u/all#0

BobPezz

iTrader: (5)

What the heck are they and what do they do?

I know a good tech up here, but (he's a busy guy) if he won't/can't do the job when the time comes I'll definitely let you know.

djfrestyl

iTrader: (89)

The link to the pictures doesn't seem to be working for me.

djfrestyl

iTrader: (89)

Read the info on this link, then post back with the spring you'd like to go with, then we'll take it from there.
FYI, Progress are discontinued and can only be acquired second-hand.


http://www.shiftice.com/spring_strut_decision.html

djfrestyl

iTrader: (89)

They're upper mounting isolators for your spring. Important, but they never wear. And even if they seem worn from the end of the spring coil, just spin them so the end of the coil is touching fresh rubber.

Sounds good, let me know.

djfrestyl

iTrader: (89)

Jeez that sounds terrible. Something literally crashing. Could be severely worn bushings, end links, or even motor mounts. Doesn't sound too much like struts.

LongoTE

Make sure your not trying to use the mobile site of imgur. I also get an "invalid link" message when on my phone but if i switch to the original version of the site the album works.



Now that my mind stopped racing i see that im going to drop a few hundred and replace most of it. i need some help though.

Replacing ball joints- should i get a whole control arm along with the ball joints? If i do replace the control arm do i have to worry about any other parts?

Swaybar bushings- I think im also going to grab new end links but what are those inner bushings called/part number? the ones that go around the bar.

outer tie rods- should i replace them?


I know its hard to tell from pictures and video but if you think i am missing something let me know because not only do i want to be safe but i also want the nice ride that i've never had.

djfrestyl

iTrader: (89)

Ah, that did it.


I'd get cheap control arms, even if they're used, and put some Moog balljoints in them, and some ES LCA bushings.

Sway bar bushings - go with ES for these too. Get some Moog sway bar links.

Tie rod ends couldn't hurt. The rubber isn't broken so it's not a necessity, but eventually.

Also, that ridiculous clunk you have - could very well be motor mounts. Or a lower radiator support that's completely rusted through and disconnected.

Where do you live that you have that amount of rust?! That's one of the worst I've ever seen.

LongoTE

The car used to live in Quincy MA, pretty close to the ocean, and had an owner who didnt give it the care it needed and instead threw some speakers in the trunk (but didn't leave them for me). Shockingly the radiator support is in good condition so maybe that was replaced. It he rust will be the end of this car. One of the exhaust hangars (right after the resonator) rusted off and left a small hole. It's clamped together right now because it started bumping on one of the subframe braces. I try not to let it bother me too much.

djfrestyl

iTrader: (89)

Ah, ocean cars. I've dealt with one and it was a nightmare. Balljoint castle nut turned to putty. That was the beginning of a very long weekend.

Are you able to replicate the noise by pushing down on the car? Might be worth it to put it on ramps and have someone push down on the hood, fenders, rear, etc to see if you can poke around underneath and find the noise.

Still though, don't rule out motor mounts.

cjandura

iTrader: (3)

I wish everyone would listen to this advice

LongoTE

What would be the difference between the cheap control arms? I found some "dorman" brand for $60 each (+ shipping) that include ball joints and bushings. If i do get them, im not going to be putting another 190 dollars to put better ball joints and bushings on them.

The swaybar end links are $60 together and the bracket bushings i can get with a gift card i have for autozone. I'm confident i can install the swaybar stuff myself if the labor would cost a lot more for someone els to do them. After all this would I need an alignment?

djfrestyl

iTrader: (89)

ES bushings and Moog ball joints are significantly better than cheap arms which have cheap bushings and ball joints. Cost is understood - if you're not into the modding game or just want it running normally, then get the LCA/tie rod end/sway bar link package on the group deals section. It's still going to be better than what you have.

Sway bar bushings and links you *should* be able to install yourself. However you have a lot of rust. So you might want to keep a blowtorch and an angle grinder handy.

Yea, you'll probably need an alignment after all this.

NmexMAX

iTrader: (22)

I'm hoping the new bearings I ordered alleviate my stupid wobble problem up front.


http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...e-obvious.html

Just ordered the hubs and bearings late last week, they should be tomorrow.

Any advice on install?

If this doesn't fix my problem, I'm going to be slightly upset. The only items left would be knuckle/spindle and CV joints.

djfrestyl

iTrader: (89)

NMex, just read the thread.

I've experienced that side to side shimmy in the past. It ended up being a shifted belt in a tire for me. Since you've swapped wheels and spacers, it couldn't possibly be it unless your rotor is somehow not flush.

Though I don't particularly see how wheel bearings could cause a side to side movement unless they were REALLY bad, at this point I couldn't imagine it could be anything other than bearings or steering gear. Have you lifted the wheel and shook it holding the 6 and 12 position?

Get the bearings done since they've never been done. Make sure the hub is triple checked that it's ok before the new bearing goes on it.

If issue persists, sounds like steering.

NmexMAX

iTrader: (22)

I've been too lazy to check the 6 & 12 positions. Although I probably should. I did read in a 6th gen thread that there's this alleged screw that just needed some tightening as well as some other components closely tied to the steering rack.

Here's the link: http://forums.maxima.org/6th-generat...hink-hope.html

I sorta had that same sort of mind set too. I'm wondering how easy a steering rack is. 4th gens are fairly easy, but, not sure if there us a difference in 5th gens.



One thing I've noticed lately is that when slightly decelerating by either removing my foot from the throttle and coming on a slight curve, when above 60MPH, I can almost hear and feel the vibration through the steering wheel and floor board. I can see that pointing to the bearings.

djfrestyl

iTrader: (89)

Makes sense it could be loose, but you'd be the first I hear about with a 5th gen.

5th is probably a very similar job - but I can't speak about that, I've never done it.

NmexMAX

iTrader: (22)

Hmmm, yeah I'm wondering how exactly I would check into the steering situation, if you think of anything that would be easy to check. What is this alleged steering gear you speak of, east to check, replace, anything?

I just hope the bearings fix it. I need to help myself so you guys could help me. sigh ... too lazy these days. Comes with age.