5th Generation Maxima (2000-2003)Learn more about the 5th Generation Maxima, including the VQ30DE-K and VQ35DE engines.
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Well I got some great advice from DJFRESTYL(great org member and knowledgeable about suspension. So I'll pass on what he told me:
Assuming OEM springs, KYB GR-2 struts
Moog front strut mounts. NO need to replace rear strut mounts, ever.
OEM dustboots - all 4.
The above are the bare minimum for a strut job.
Next - Moog sway bar endlinks and Energy Suspension sway bar bushings.
Wanna go further? Get the subframe collars sold on the forum. They're pretty sweet.
Most of his customers stop here.
If you want to take it further. ES LCA bushings. If you're doing the LCA bushings, swap out your ball joints with Moogs.
With the above, you'd be MORE than golden. There's plenty more you can do - like trailing arm bushings, or motor mounts and subframe bushings, but I'll leave it up to you to decide how far you want to go.
Hope this helps you with your list because it COMPLETED my list thanks to him
Was kind of thinking about going BC-R coilovers just to go all the way.
Basically I had a blowout and it took a shock (FL) with it so my car has just been sitting a couple days now. I am just finally getting around to planning the project out so what is on the list is what you guys have said so far.
Question for those of you sporting aftermarket suspensions: Being on a limited budget, which would be an overall better setup? (I realize alot of this is personal preference)
1. Tokico Hp blues, stock springs, new LCA, FSTB, RSB
2. Tokico Illuminas, HR springs, new LCA, no FSTB, no RSB (due to budget)
That is where some of the confusion comes in for me because I'm not sure which parts that adds/removes from the equation. Obviously I know I won't need the dustboots and springs/shocks themselves but the rest I don't know. I've been lucky in that I went through two 4th gens and never had to touch the suspension but unfortunately now i know next to nothing about it.
Question for those of you sporting aftermarket suspensions: Being on a limited budget, which would be an overall better setup? (I realize alot of this is personal preference)
1. Tokico Hp blues, stock springs, new LCA, FSTB, RSB
2. Tokico Illuminas, HR springs, new LCA, no FSTB, no RSB (due to budget)
Apples to oranges.
Do you want to lower or not? You don't need Illuminas on H&R's. FSTB vs no FSTB is like a $25 difference.
LCA doesn't need to be replaced unless you have a bad bushing/ball joint, or if you want to upgrade to ES.
But in general, there are too many logical holes in your question.
Well I got some great advice from DJFRESTYL(great org member and knowledgeable about suspension. So I'll pass on what he told me:
Assuming OEM springs, KYB GR-2 struts
Moog front strut mounts. NO need to replace rear strut mounts, ever.
OEM dustboots - all 4.
The above are the bare minimum for a strut job.
Next - Moog sway bar endlinks and Energy Suspension sway bar bushings.
Wanna go further? Get the subframe collars sold on the forum. They're pretty sweet.
Most of his customers stop here.
If you want to take it further. ES LCA bushings. If you're doing the LCA bushings, swap out your ball joints with Moogs.
With the above, you'd be MORE than golden. There's plenty more you can do - like trailing arm bushings, or motor mounts and subframe bushings, but I'll leave it up to you to decide how far you want to go.
Hope this helps you with your list because it COMPLETED my list thanks to him
Anyone who does this should absolutely get the OEM from a dealer.
Those have both the bumpstop and the boot as one assembly.
The crap Strut Mate bumps and boots at NAPA - DO NOT FIT CORRECTLY. I had the same problem on my 2000 and 96.
__________________ 2000 SE 5spd Black/Black Timing Advanced to 17 BTDC ; Place Racing CAI ; Unorthodox Racing UDP ; JWT Stage 1 Clutch ; Cattman Headers; Cattman Mid Pipe ; Tokiko Illuminas/Eibach Springs ; Pacesetter STS ; Courtesy FTSB ; Pilot Sport A/S 225/50/17
Alright unless anyone has anything to add my final list looks like this:
Moog Sway bar endlinks 2x $19.48
Moog Ball joints 2x $61.59
ES Sway bar bushings $20.99
ES Control arm bushings $55.09
ES Trailing arm bushings $69.79
ES Subframe bushings $22.99
All that will be sourced from Energysuspensionparts
Subframe collars $89.01 from guy in classifieds I have to contact still
BC coilovers probably from 03VQ
Aha I just remembered the question I wanted to ask. On ESP they list a 22mm and a 23mm front sway bar bushing, which one would I want, if both would work then what is the difference, price is the same.
funny i didnt see on anyones list to replace the top hat bearings
those things are made of plastic and if they have never been replaced you absolutely should, just because it's easy and you are already there when replacing strutss
Thanks 02white that just made me realize I can't use the sway bar end links anyway, it says they only fit the SE and I am GXE.
Amave: Would that apply if I am doing coilovers? I do believe the first two guys said to change those but I thought since I am doing coilovers I wouldn't need to. That's why I am posting my list for confirmation though
New list:
Moog Ball joints 2x $61.59
Moog Front Outer Tie Rod $37.00
Moog Front Inner Tie Rod $51.17
ES Sway bar bushings 22mm $20.99
ES Control arm bushings $55.09
ES Trailing arm bushings $69.79
ES Subframe bushings $22.99
Alright unless anyone has anything to add my final list looks like this:
Moog Sway bar endlinks 2x $19.48
Moog Ball joints 2x $61.59
ES Sway bar bushings $20.99
ES Control arm bushings $55.09
ES Trailing arm bushings $69.79
ES Subframe bushings $22.99
All that will be sourced from Energysuspensionparts
Subframe collars $89.01 from guy in classifieds I have to contact still
BC coilovers probably from 03VQ
Aha I just remembered the question I wanted to ask. On ESP they list a 22mm and a 23mm front sway bar bushing, which one would I want, if both would work then what is the difference, price is the same.
Amazon's prices are better, and free shipping.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Amave
funny i didnt see on anyones list to replace the top hat bearings
those things are made of plastic and if they have never been replaced you absolutely should, just because it's easy and you are already there when replacing strutss
Moog strut mounts come with new bearings so they're not often discussed - more implied. No point in opening the whole assembly up just to do the bearings. Replace them, with the mounts and boots, when struts are being done...but he's doing coilovers.
Quote:
Originally Posted by ffcbairn
Thanks 02white that just made me realize I can't use the sway bar end links anyway, it says they only fit the SE and I am GXE.
Amave: Would that apply if I am doing coilovers? I do believe the first two guys said to change those but I thought since I am doing coilovers I wouldn't need to. That's why I am posting my list for confirmation though
New list:
Moog Ball joints 2x $61.59
Moog Front Outer Tie Rod $37.00
Moog Front Inner Tie Rod $51.17
ES Sway bar bushings 22mm $20.99
ES Control arm bushings $55.09
ES Trailing arm bushings $69.79
ES Subframe bushings $22.99
Moog sway bar links. Do them. GXE/SE/GLE doesn't matter.
You're correct about coilovers. If doing coilovers, you need NO strut parts - mounts, bearings or boots.
funny i didnt see on anyones list to replace the top hat bearings
That's because they come as part of the Moog strut mount kit.
OP, you've done excellent research, and collected a fine set of parts. Your front-end will feel solid as a rock and far better than even when the car was new.
OAN, at this stages in your Maxima's life, your front wheel bearings are likely getting worn. Just saying.
Quote:
Originally Posted by djfrestyl
YOU SIR, need to come to me for me to do the work. The 45 minute drive is worth it.
Do this. djfrestyl has experience and good character. It's a combination you should take advantage of if you're only 45 minutes away.
__________________
2003 Nissan Maxima SE 6MT, Original Owner, sold Jan 2012 - Back off, man. I'm waxing my duckfeet.
Your front-end will feel solid as a rock and far better than even when the car was new.
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