New OBX headers are finally in stock, pics with install, questions and comments
09-22-2013, 07:26 PM
#123
Junior Member
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Brandon, FL
Posts: 69
Yes it bolts right up to the cat. You could also get a test pipe to complement the headers if you want to pollute and you don't have emissions testing.
If your worried about rust soak the bolts with pb blaster over night and respray them before you do the install. That helps a lot.
If your worried about rust soak the bolts with pb blaster over night and respray them before you do the install. That helps a lot.
12-03-2013, 01:02 AM
#124
Junior Member
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Aurora, CO
Posts: 31
It's been a long since you guys had this conversation. It's almost 2014! Wondering if they changed that by now? Probably not, if so that's fine. I can probably handle a little grinding and the other mods I've read. My question is more going towards cracking metals? Would they crack after some highway driving or something? I can't find ANY other brand but OBX headers for my 2003.
12-03-2013, 03:40 AM
#125
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: East TN
Posts: 411
It's been a long since you guys had this conversation. It's almost 2014! Wondering if they changed that by now? Probably not, if so that's fine. I can probably handle a little grinding and the other mods I've read. My question is more going towards cracking metals? Would they crack after some highway driving or something? I can't find ANY other brand but OBX headers for my 2003.
12-03-2013, 11:27 AM
#127
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: East TN
Posts: 411
I just received them today and plan on installing this weekend.
http://www.drivenbystyle.com/1995-20...-p-505395.html
http://www.drivenbystyle.com/1995-20...-p-505395.html
12-03-2013, 11:30 AM
#128
I just received them today and plan on installing this weekend.
http://www.drivenbystyle.com/1995-20...-p-505395.html
http://www.drivenbystyle.com/1995-20...-p-505395.html
12-03-2013, 11:33 AM
#129
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: East TN
Posts: 411
I just received them today and plan on installing this weekend.
http://www.drivenbystyle.com/1995-20...-p-505395.html
http://www.drivenbystyle.com/1995-20...-p-505395.html
Also went ahead and bought the intake gasket and 04 valve covers with gaskets for my 03 se. Oh, and I'm installing ngk lasers and 1 new ignition coil too for #2.
12-03-2013, 11:39 AM
#130
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: East TN
Posts: 411
I am not that concerned with the sound right now... but your droning thread makes me wonder a little. However, its the only thread I've read where someone has complained about the sound of headers.
Last edited by ACee; 12-03-2013 at 11:45 AM.
12-03-2013, 12:00 PM
#131
That header has egr port which the VQ35DE doesn't need since.
Part # is 14052-21R00
12-03-2013, 12:25 PM
#132
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: East TN
Posts: 411
Thanks for the p/n though, I just don't think that I will need it.
01-21-2014, 12:00 PM
#135
Glad to see you back.
01-23-2014, 02:44 AM
#137
Junior Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: conn.
Posts: 86
It's been a long since you guys had this conversation. It's almost 2014! Wondering if they changed that by now? Probably not, if so that's fine. I can probably handle a little grinding and the other mods I've read. My question is more going towards cracking metals? Would they crack after some highway driving or something? I can't find ANY other brand but OBX headers for my 2003.
01-29-2014, 08:34 PM
#139
Banned
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Inglewood up to no good
Posts: 131
95-01 OBX Un-Equal Length Y-Pipe design. W/ EGR Port
02-03 OBX V2 Equal Length Y-Pipe design. NO EGR Port
But generally both function the same, but both sound and fitment will differ as well because of the y-pipe design.
All 95-03 headers work. Vice Versa.
GL.
05-19-2014, 09:40 PM
#141
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: May 2014
Posts: 8
new header install
Hey guys, im new here and I was wondering if anyone knows any maxima exhaust specialist in the nyc area. I really dont wanna go through the headaches of installing these after hearing the horror stories
05-28-2014, 04:07 PM
#147
And a lil effert , If you ask a question like that you dont deserve to know,imho
But a wideband its just one of the many things you have to buy BUT when youre serious about tuning
05-29-2015, 12:47 PM
#148
I would like to give thanks to the thread starter, the tips for extending the O2 sensors worked perfectly, so no soldering required. The only thing that could be worth adding is a replacement gasket for the front primary to y-pipe flange, a Vibrant 2" 2 hole gasket fits very well here, and is a better quality material than what is included in the header kit. I too found that the header set was actually almost plug and play, with the same type of fitment, leaving just enough clearance from the subframe and front motor mount.
I spent about 2.5 days total getting this done, at home in my garage on jackstands. I ran into a few major headaches, the worst of which being removing my Cattman y pipe. There is one bolt that is essentially inaccessible, which I had to cut out with a dremel. After an hour of F-ing with it I was tempted to cut the y pipe apart to remove it, but after 2+ hours the bolt finally was cut enough to break apart. It was time consuming to remove the black RTV off on my intake manifold spacers as well. I had to activate incredible hulk mode to get my lower tie bar 2 off, there just wasn't room to rotate the headers into place with the tie bar installed. The 2 bolts one the front of the lower control arms were both seized very badly, it took me a breaker bar with 3 foot cheater extension to finally get them off.
Last night I was disheartened when I fired the car up only to hear that there was a leak somewhere, but today found that it was just a loose bolt on the y pipe to test pipe flange. I tightened it up, and now there's no leaks thankfully, I feared that I may have cracked the headers somehow during installation.
My precats didn't look too bad, the front precat had a tiny bit of material that had flaked off, while the rear precat was fully intact. The fear of the precats disintegrating was what finally enticed me to install headers aftyer almost 13 years of owning the car. Now I just wish I had done it sooner!
I spent about 2.5 days total getting this done, at home in my garage on jackstands. I ran into a few major headaches, the worst of which being removing my Cattman y pipe. There is one bolt that is essentially inaccessible, which I had to cut out with a dremel. After an hour of F-ing with it I was tempted to cut the y pipe apart to remove it, but after 2+ hours the bolt finally was cut enough to break apart. It was time consuming to remove the black RTV off on my intake manifold spacers as well. I had to activate incredible hulk mode to get my lower tie bar 2 off, there just wasn't room to rotate the headers into place with the tie bar installed. The 2 bolts one the front of the lower control arms were both seized very badly, it took me a breaker bar with 3 foot cheater extension to finally get them off.
Last night I was disheartened when I fired the car up only to hear that there was a leak somewhere, but today found that it was just a loose bolt on the y pipe to test pipe flange. I tightened it up, and now there's no leaks thankfully, I feared that I may have cracked the headers somehow during installation.
My precats didn't look too bad, the front precat had a tiny bit of material that had flaked off, while the rear precat was fully intact. The fear of the precats disintegrating was what finally enticed me to install headers aftyer almost 13 years of owning the car. Now I just wish I had done it sooner!
Last edited by Kevin Trout; 05-29-2015 at 01:18 PM.
05-29-2015, 03:59 PM
#149
I would like to give thanks to the thread starter, the tips for extending the O2 sensors worked perfectly, so no soldering required. The only thing that could be worth adding is a replacement gasket for the front primary to y-pipe flange, a Vibrant 2" 2 hole gasket fits very well here, and is a better quality material than what is included in the header kit. I too found that the header set was actually almost plug and play, with the same type of fitment, leaving just enough clearance from the subframe and front motor mount.
I spent about 2.5 days total getting this done, at home in my garage on jackstands. I ran into a few major headaches, the worst of which being removing my Cattman y pipe. There is one bolt that is essentially inaccessible, which I had to cut out with a dremel. After an hour of F-ing with it I was tempted to cut the y pipe apart to remove it, but after 2+ hours the bolt finally was cut enough to break apart. It was time consuming to remove the black RTV off on my intake manifold spacers as well. I had to activate incredible hulk mode to get my lower tie bar 2 off, there just wasn't room to rotate the headers into place with the tie bar installed. The 2 bolts one the front of the lower control arms were both seized very badly, it took me a breaker bar with 3 foot cheater extension to finally get them off.
Last night I was disheartened when I fired the car up only to hear that there was a leak somewhere, but today found that it was just a loose bolt on the y pipe to test pipe flange. I tightened it up, and now there's no leaks thankfully, I feared that I may have cracked the headers somehow during installation.
My precats didn't look too bad, the front precat had a tiny bit of material that had flaked off, while the rear precat was fully intact. The fear of the precats disintegrating was what finally enticed me to install headers aftyer almost 13 years of owning the car. Now I just wish I had done it sooner!
I spent about 2.5 days total getting this done, at home in my garage on jackstands. I ran into a few major headaches, the worst of which being removing my Cattman y pipe. There is one bolt that is essentially inaccessible, which I had to cut out with a dremel. After an hour of F-ing with it I was tempted to cut the y pipe apart to remove it, but after 2+ hours the bolt finally was cut enough to break apart. It was time consuming to remove the black RTV off on my intake manifold spacers as well. I had to activate incredible hulk mode to get my lower tie bar 2 off, there just wasn't room to rotate the headers into place with the tie bar installed. The 2 bolts one the front of the lower control arms were both seized very badly, it took me a breaker bar with 3 foot cheater extension to finally get them off.
Last night I was disheartened when I fired the car up only to hear that there was a leak somewhere, but today found that it was just a loose bolt on the y pipe to test pipe flange. I tightened it up, and now there's no leaks thankfully, I feared that I may have cracked the headers somehow during installation.
My precats didn't look too bad, the front precat had a tiny bit of material that had flaked off, while the rear precat was fully intact. The fear of the precats disintegrating was what finally enticed me to install headers aftyer almost 13 years of owning the car. Now I just wish I had done it sooner!
I hope everyone is using anti-seize on everything!
05-29-2015, 04:36 PM
#150
I would like to give thanks to the thread starter, the tips for extending the O2 sensors worked perfectly, so no soldering required. The only thing that could be worth adding is a replacement gasket for the front primary to y-pipe flange, a Vibrant 2" 2 hole gasket fits very well here, and is a better quality material than what is included in the header kit. I too found that the header set was actually almost plug and play, with the same type of fitment, leaving just enough clearance from the subframe and front motor mount.
I spent about 2.5 days total getting this done, at home in my garage on jackstands. I ran into a few major headaches, the worst of which being removing my Cattman y pipe. There is one bolt that is essentially inaccessible, which I had to cut out with a dremel. After an hour of F-ing with it I was tempted to cut the y pipe apart to remove it, but after 2+ hours the bolt finally was cut enough to break apart. It was time consuming to remove the black RTV off on my intake manifold spacers as well. I had to activate incredible hulk mode to get my lower tie bar 2 off, there just wasn't room to rotate the headers into place with the tie bar installed. The 2 bolts one the front of the lower control arms were both seized very badly, it took me a breaker bar with 3 foot cheater extension to finally get them off.
Last night I was disheartened when I fired the car up only to hear that there was a leak somewhere, but today found that it was just a loose bolt on the y pipe to test pipe flange. I tightened it up, and now there's no leaks thankfully, I feared that I may have cracked the headers somehow during installation.
My precats didn't look too bad, the front precat had a tiny bit of material that had flaked off, while the rear precat was fully intact. The fear of the precats disintegrating was what finally enticed me to install headers aftyer almost 13 years of owning the car. Now I just wish I had done it sooner!
I spent about 2.5 days total getting this done, at home in my garage on jackstands. I ran into a few major headaches, the worst of which being removing my Cattman y pipe. There is one bolt that is essentially inaccessible, which I had to cut out with a dremel. After an hour of F-ing with it I was tempted to cut the y pipe apart to remove it, but after 2+ hours the bolt finally was cut enough to break apart. It was time consuming to remove the black RTV off on my intake manifold spacers as well. I had to activate incredible hulk mode to get my lower tie bar 2 off, there just wasn't room to rotate the headers into place with the tie bar installed. The 2 bolts one the front of the lower control arms were both seized very badly, it took me a breaker bar with 3 foot cheater extension to finally get them off.
Last night I was disheartened when I fired the car up only to hear that there was a leak somewhere, but today found that it was just a loose bolt on the y pipe to test pipe flange. I tightened it up, and now there's no leaks thankfully, I feared that I may have cracked the headers somehow during installation.
My precats didn't look too bad, the front precat had a tiny bit of material that had flaked off, while the rear precat was fully intact. The fear of the precats disintegrating was what finally enticed me to install headers aftyer almost 13 years of owning the car. Now I just wish I had done it sooner!
05-29-2015, 07:29 PM
#151
I am pretty low mileage, only 130000km so far, so that would likely explain why the precats still looked good. I used anti-seize on the O2 sensors only, didn't see the need anywhere else as the other nuts and bolts shouldn't be super hard to remove.
05-29-2015, 07:31 PM
#152
OBX normally don't crack upon installation especially when things are under tension....but within your first year they'll be cracked....I found SCE copper gaskets too be the best solution for aftermarket headers, the collector flange gaskets normally supplied with aftermarket headers usually are subpar and suck. They SCE copper gaskets are reuseable and durable as can be!
05-29-2015, 08:15 PM
#153
Join Date: May 2015
Location: Mapleton UT
Posts: 17
I took it out for the first test drive, and found myself surprised at how loud it is under acceleration, enough so to have me wondering if there is still a leak. I'm running the Obx headers, a 3" test pipe, and 3" Cattman exhaust, am I correct in assuming that this setup should be quite loud? It's fine under cruising speeds. Another oddity is a whistling sound when I accelerate, this could be a leak on the intake spacers, but I could swear it's coming from underneath the car, not the engine bay.
05-29-2015, 08:22 PM
#154
I don't really suspect any leaking from the intake manifold, as I have no symptoms that would lead me to believe there is an issue. The idle is fine, about 750rpm or so, and all throttle related functions are working well too. I do recall having a bit of a whistling sound in the spacers previously, but I could swear this sound is more beneath me (not that you can tell that well when there is so much noise to discern locations of), and this sounds more like a hiss now than a whistle. It could be nothing worth worrying about at all, I've never had the opportunity to ride in another modded maxima before, so I can only watch youtube videos to compare.
06-26-2016, 01:01 PM
#157
Member
Join Date: Mar 2015
Posts: 186
Hey im installing my rear primary tomorrow i also have obx headers theres 2 slots on the back header one is similar to the front header position and theres anothet that sits a little lower i couldn't really understand how ti extend it with the explanation in the picture from the pitcure it kind of looks like the harness from front primary and second primary are connected in the same black wire
