97KcMax

iTrader: (3)

Hello everyone. Welp to start I have a 00' SE 5spd. No engine/performance mods. I have noticed in the last 2 weeks that my car has developed a no heat issue while its idling. Even when im driving, as long as its below 2-2.5 rpm, I wont have heat. I have to accelerate the engine to 3+ rpm for at least 10 seconds for hot air to start blowing. The radiator was replaced during the summer, and the heat worked after it was replaced. I also have a SES light on for P1320 (Ignition code). I didnt know if that had any effect on my heat. This issue kinda hinders my remote start useless Anyone know a solution to this????

Elemental

Renders not hinders.. But this isn't a composition class now is it?
What's the mileage on your Maxima?
Check and see your coolant level is actually proper. I would suggest attempting to bleed the system for air out incase for some reason the system is air-bound. Otherwise, I suggest your fix is going to be replacing the thermostat, seems as its failing to open properly now. Do it soon and keep an eye on your temp gauge, tstat fix > headgaskets

97KcMax

iTrader: (3)

Yea ima check my colant level once I get home tonight. But I was hoping it was a tstat and not a heater core issue. Heater core doesnt sound too fun.

Elemental

Check the rug near the firewall on the passenger side for wetness. Simply inspecting your coolant level would tell you if you have a leak. But remember if the level is low it is also possible the leak is somewhere else or that for some reason the system is in fact air-bound. Good luck, let us know how you make out!

97KcMax

iTrader: (3)

Coolant level is fine, no leaks. Coolant is fresh also. I'm leaning either towards a tstat or the heater core. Only possible causes to my knowledge.

ShocknAwe

iTrader: (3)

Sounds like a classic TStat failure to me as well. DO NOT go with the el cheapo insert auto store name here thermo, go with a quality OEM nissan or you will likely be replacing it again in a few months. Unless you get lucky and get one of the few that are half-way decent. my 2c

chrome91

iTrader: (1)

same thing happened on a a Prelude i worked on yesterday, took 20 minutes for heat to kick in and finally wouldnt give heat at all. thought the thermostat was stuck open and it was. similar happened with my truck, but the thermostat was just opening too early. new thermostat fixed em

easy to do yourself and even if you dont know cars well, its basic. just wait until the car cools, unbolt the housing (3 bolts on a 5th gen IIRC, you will also lose about a litre or so of coolant so grab a bucket), pay attention which way the old thermostat is in, remove it along with the old gasket, use a razor blade to clean the edges of the housing, put the new gasket on, put the new thermostat in (make sure the little hole with the loose pin faces UP), and bolt the housing back up. bleed the system, and boom

if your temperature gauge stays in the middle where it should be, its most likely the heater core. if the temperature gauge is in cold always or only a bit above cold, its thermostat most likely

ShocknAwe

iTrader: (3)

Thermostat gasket? Not needed just use some blue RTV

amixamse

iTrader: (2)

im having the same exact issue but the temp gauge is where it should be.. btw is it ok to drain radiator fluid and add new or should u actually do the suction process mechanics offer?

Elemental

Drain it from the plug on the bottom passenger side of the radiator.

imported_Nismo_max

iTrader: (5)

not to thread jack but i have this exact problem?!! when at normal operating temp. the temp gauge would only go up by alittle..just right above the cold mark? but u do have decent heat coming through..is the tstat still the problem why..!! i always thought it could just be my gauge cluster acting up..btw ii have 207k on it..!!

ColtMax

Radiator cap allowing air in the system during cooldown. The air is now trapped in your heater core and disturbs the coolant flow.

Change the cap and make sur you coolant reserve is ok. Should be ok within couple of days (takes a few warm up - cool down cycles to flush the air.)

97KcMax

iTrader: (3)

Update: So I got really frustrated about the issue so I pulled up home, and opened radiator cap without letting it cool off. So it bursted out of there as expected I let it do it's thing. I went inside to eat came back out and filled up the car with coolant. And now voila! I have heat. Lol idk what's the deal. I think it's the cap.

ColtMax

Told ya!

Amave

by any chance are you seeing any bubbles in the overflow bottle while sitting at idle?

Does it run hot or overheat? Does the temp. get cooler when you drive?

Does your heat work when you rev the engine?

ColtMax

Well I am sorry to say that, but the symptoms you are describing could be related to a bad head gasket.

When the car is cold, open the rad cap and start the engine. Try to see if there are air bubbles coming from the rad.

It could be 2 things, remaining air in the system that the bad cap situation created, or it could be head gasket failure.

amixamse

iTrader: (2)

coltmax knows his motors! just popped off my cap and smoke and some fizz came out, changed fluid and capped everything back on, heat is like a furnace now

Amave

lol no i was only asking to rule out HG failure, my Maxima is fine.

but yeah i was describing symptoms of a blown head gasket just in case.

glad to know it was just the rad. cap, but just to be safe, check the overflow tank hose from the rad. filler neck. i have seen cars have crust buildup in the hose and the coolant cant over flow

97KcMax

iTrader: (3)

Yea, Thanks guys. When I get some extra money ima have my mechanic slap in a oem water pump and tstat just for kicks and giggles. Its only right cuz of the mileage is up there(177xxx). The vehicles previous owner was a complete turd.

97KcMax

iTrader: (3)

And no, doesnt do any of the above.

Max_Gator

You might want to take a look at how much labor is on that water pump first. There will be no giggles.

maxinout93

what if there are air bubbles in the overflow tank at times? Ive recently replaced some coolant lines and havent bled the system. I have steady heat when the car is moving and sometimes if i squeeze the overflow tank hose i will see some bubbles but not all the time. Do i need to worry about this? I only dont have heat at idle, ive done thermostat and radiator as well as waterpump but upon backflushing the heater core ive noticed a small restriction in the return hose, but with pressure flushing it flows fine, im assuming the same thing when im driving and the waterpump is spinning faster i get heat.

Child_uv_KoRn

iTrader: (7)

You answered your question at the beginning. Properly bleed it and see.

maxinout93

ok lol will do that!

Les7311

This is what wasn't done. Need to burp your radiator

jackman

Yeah, just squeeze the "pipes and tubes." Seriously, is that how you burp the coolant system on these cars? By squeezing the radiator hoses? Doesn't the air in those areas get forced out in two or three heat/cool cycles? Lots of cars have formers in the hoses, you couldn't squeeze them if you tried.

Les7311

Watch the vid - and the other related YouTube threads. You will be surprised. I had to perform the same actions after replacing my front engine mount by removing the radiator and loosing my coolant.

"... you can bring a horse to the water, but you can't force them to drink it..."