Cheap repair method for P0455 P1448 codes 2002 Maxima
12-03-2011, 11:05 AM
#1
Supporting Maxima.org Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2001
Posts: 45
Cheap repair method for P0455 P1448 codes 2002 Maxima
Hello all
Thought I would summarize my approach to fixing the code P0455 and P1488.
2002 3.5L Maxima.
The root cause (in my case) is a valve that is normally open that needs to close once in a while so the engine computer can pressurize the gas vapor recovery lines to check for leaks.
If the valve is stuck open (rusty) you get these "gross leak" codes, since while open the tubes won't build up any pressure to pass the check.
Of course you get the same code if you forget to install, or don't correctly tighten the gas cap, so clearing the code and checking/replacing gas cap is always first option to explore.
Official Nissan Part numbers are as follows;
EVAP CVCV:
14935-5M00A, $85.76 each at Courtesy
Charcoal canister:
14950-4L60C, $173.34 each at Courtesy
Filler cap:
17251-79961, $13.35 each at Courtesy
I started with replacing the gas cap, and resetting the check engine light (CEL)... and nothing changed.
Since I am cheap, and am selling the car.. I wanted to avoid replacing the $173 charcoal canister.
I searched EBAY for the valve part number.(Note, you got to search for the exact part number including the - in the middle) I Found the part for $50 with free shipping, but the listing did not show the 2002 Maxima as correct for this part.
I did some more research and confirmed the part number was correct, (looked up part number at nissan dealer website) and noticed that the 14935-5M00A was superseeded by a 14935-5M00B version.
I then searched ebay again using the B version, and got more hits, but the same $50 valve listed both part numbers, so.. I decided to take a chance and order the part since the part numbers listed matched exactly, and the picture of the part was also identical. (The part worked fine).
Ebay Link is here:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Nissan-Altim...item1e679c5e29
I read all the posts about how the screws that hold the charcoal canister in place break, and how the screws that hold the valve in place also break so... i sprayed WD40 on everything and waited about 30 minutes.
The three 10mm bolts that hold the charcoal canister in place came out, and I removed all the vacuum hoses and the single electrical connector, and the unit, but once out of the car, it quickly became clear that the two 10mm bolts that hold the valve were not budging and I did not want to just break them off in an uncontrolled manner so......
So... I used my Dremel Moto Tool and the cutting wheel attachment to cut the bolt heads off to leave "studs" in place. Even after I did that I had to pry the valve off, and brass inserts from the valve remained stuck on the remains of the bolts that were now "studs" so.. I used the Moto tool and cutting wheel to carefully remove those as well.
When I finished, I had the valve removed ,and two studs that I used to correctly guide the new normally open valve in place.
This took about 30-40 minutes but end result was I got the old valve off, without breaking or ruining the $175 charcoal canister so... I thought the time invested was well spent.
I installed the E-Bay valve and glued it in place with JB weld as replacement for the impossible to remove bolts.
Of course since I replaced the valve with the cannister out of the car, I put the valve in upside down, with the electrical connector down instead of up.
I was cranky when I noticed this on re-installation, fortunately there was enough extra length in the tubing that connects to the valve , and the connector wire that I did not have to undo my JB weld job and start over.
So... double check the valve orientation before you glue to crap out of it. (Electrical connector goes "up")
Next dumb problem I created was I was in a hurry and did not fully seat the electrical connector (since the wire is now stretched a wee bit)... and I got a different code.
P0447 - EVAP Canister Vent Control Valve Circuit Open
Next AM I crawled back under the car, and the issue was pretty obvious. I reset the connector, it clicked into place, and no more CEL .
Bottom line is if you invest some time and cut the bolt heads off the bolts that hold the valve in place, you can save and re-use the expensive charcoal canister.
Hope this helps someone in the future.. I know I have received lots of good tips on this site over the years.
Too bad I am moving on to Honda and Toyota... LOL.
CPU
__________________
Thought I would summarize my approach to fixing the code P0455 and P1488.
2002 3.5L Maxima.
The root cause (in my case) is a valve that is normally open that needs to close once in a while so the engine computer can pressurize the gas vapor recovery lines to check for leaks.
If the valve is stuck open (rusty) you get these "gross leak" codes, since while open the tubes won't build up any pressure to pass the check.
Of course you get the same code if you forget to install, or don't correctly tighten the gas cap, so clearing the code and checking/replacing gas cap is always first option to explore.
Official Nissan Part numbers are as follows;
EVAP CVCV:
14935-5M00A, $85.76 each at Courtesy
Charcoal canister:
14950-4L60C, $173.34 each at Courtesy
Filler cap:
17251-79961, $13.35 each at Courtesy
I started with replacing the gas cap, and resetting the check engine light (CEL)... and nothing changed.
Since I am cheap, and am selling the car.. I wanted to avoid replacing the $173 charcoal canister.
I searched EBAY for the valve part number.(Note, you got to search for the exact part number including the - in the middle) I Found the part for $50 with free shipping, but the listing did not show the 2002 Maxima as correct for this part.
I did some more research and confirmed the part number was correct, (looked up part number at nissan dealer website) and noticed that the 14935-5M00A was superseeded by a 14935-5M00B version.
I then searched ebay again using the B version, and got more hits, but the same $50 valve listed both part numbers, so.. I decided to take a chance and order the part since the part numbers listed matched exactly, and the picture of the part was also identical. (The part worked fine).
Ebay Link is here:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Nissan-Altim...item1e679c5e29
I read all the posts about how the screws that hold the charcoal canister in place break, and how the screws that hold the valve in place also break so... i sprayed WD40 on everything and waited about 30 minutes.
The three 10mm bolts that hold the charcoal canister in place came out, and I removed all the vacuum hoses and the single electrical connector, and the unit, but once out of the car, it quickly became clear that the two 10mm bolts that hold the valve were not budging and I did not want to just break them off in an uncontrolled manner so......
So... I used my Dremel Moto Tool and the cutting wheel attachment to cut the bolt heads off to leave "studs" in place. Even after I did that I had to pry the valve off, and brass inserts from the valve remained stuck on the remains of the bolts that were now "studs" so.. I used the Moto tool and cutting wheel to carefully remove those as well.
When I finished, I had the valve removed ,and two studs that I used to correctly guide the new normally open valve in place.
This took about 30-40 minutes but end result was I got the old valve off, without breaking or ruining the $175 charcoal canister so... I thought the time invested was well spent.
I installed the E-Bay valve and glued it in place with JB weld as replacement for the impossible to remove bolts.
Of course since I replaced the valve with the cannister out of the car, I put the valve in upside down, with the electrical connector down instead of up.
I was cranky when I noticed this on re-installation, fortunately there was enough extra length in the tubing that connects to the valve , and the connector wire that I did not have to undo my JB weld job and start over.
So... double check the valve orientation before you glue to crap out of it. (Electrical connector goes "up")
Next dumb problem I created was I was in a hurry and did not fully seat the electrical connector (since the wire is now stretched a wee bit)... and I got a different code.
P0447 - EVAP Canister Vent Control Valve Circuit Open
Next AM I crawled back under the car, and the issue was pretty obvious. I reset the connector, it clicked into place, and no more CEL .
Bottom line is if you invest some time and cut the bolt heads off the bolts that hold the valve in place, you can save and re-use the expensive charcoal canister.
Hope this helps someone in the future.. I know I have received lots of good tips on this site over the years.
Too bad I am moving on to Honda and Toyota... LOL.
CPU
__________________
12-05-2011, 07:36 PM
#4
12-06-2011, 10:33 AM
#5
Very nice Thread OP. I like the detailed write up. Can you post any pics? ! that would be helpful. And I will restate nice write up with all associated part numbers and links for the ebay valve!.
Thanks for sharing. May try this approach one day.
Thanks for sharing. May try this approach one day.
12-07-2011, 07:32 AM
#6
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Jan 2009
Posts: 11
I'm trying to work on a similar solution, I got 1 of the 2 bolts on the valve off, the second one (closer to the wheel well) snapped even after a ton of pb blaster.
I was hoping to use the new valve and old canister since I think its the valve that is faulty.
Instead of gluing the valve to the evap canister, I was going to use some sort of sealant, the one bolt that didnt snap and zip ties around the canister.
I wanted to go with something other than glue in case I do need to replace the canister down the road.
Any suggestions on what would work best for this?
I was hoping to use the new valve and old canister since I think its the valve that is faulty.
Instead of gluing the valve to the evap canister, I was going to use some sort of sealant, the one bolt that didnt snap and zip ties around the canister.
I wanted to go with something other than glue in case I do need to replace the canister down the road.
Any suggestions on what would work best for this?
12-12-2011, 03:17 PM
#9
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Jan 2009
Posts: 11
an update for anyone that might have the same problem
used a RTV Clear silicone sealant on the outside of the canister (between the canister and the inside of the valve, not on the tube but the interior of the flange) and then some more on the outside edge of the flange that sits against the canister to provide a good seal.
drove the car for 4 days and the codes took care of themselves, I had 5 from this issue, not sure if the 02 codes were related but they are gone now. (P1448, P1447, P0455, P1167, P0159)
Its not an ideal solution but it did work, I'll update if it does fail me down the road.
Got me my inspection sticker so I'm happy with that result at least.
used a RTV Clear silicone sealant on the outside of the canister (between the canister and the inside of the valve, not on the tube but the interior of the flange) and then some more on the outside edge of the flange that sits against the canister to provide a good seal.
drove the car for 4 days and the codes took care of themselves, I had 5 from this issue, not sure if the 02 codes were related but they are gone now. (P1448, P1447, P0455, P1167, P0159)
Its not an ideal solution but it did work, I'll update if it does fail me down the road.
Got me my inspection sticker so I'm happy with that result at least.
12-13-2011, 10:25 AM
#10
an update for anyone that might have the same problem
used a RTV Clear silicone sealant on the outside of the canister (between the canister and the inside of the valve, not on the tube but the interior of the flange) and then some more on the outside edge of the flange that sits against the canister to provide a good seal.
drove the car for 4 days and the codes took care of themselves, I had 5 from this issue, not sure if the 02 codes were related but they are gone now. (P1448, P1447, P0455, P1167, P0159)
Its not an ideal solution but it did work, I'll update if it does fail me down the road.
Got me my inspection sticker so I'm happy with that result at least.
used a RTV Clear silicone sealant on the outside of the canister (between the canister and the inside of the valve, not on the tube but the interior of the flange) and then some more on the outside edge of the flange that sits against the canister to provide a good seal.
drove the car for 4 days and the codes took care of themselves, I had 5 from this issue, not sure if the 02 codes were related but they are gone now. (P1448, P1447, P0455, P1167, P0159)
Its not an ideal solution but it did work, I'll update if it does fail me down the road.
Got me my inspection sticker so I'm happy with that result at least.
06-15-2012, 07:43 AM
#11
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Apr 2012
Posts: 3
I did similiar to what prophecy did. The bolts broke off so I used RC tire glue (anderson-rc.com) to reattach the valve. The p0455 and p1448 went away. However, 2 days later I got a p1456 code for a "very small EVAP leak". I had it smoke tested yesterday to find it leaking from the bolt holes in the solenoid valve I replaced.
LESSON LEARNED: Make sure to fill the bolt holes with silicone also. Don't just put the sillicone around the outside seal. I hope this helps someone else. My SES light was driving me CRAZY. All is good now though!
LESSON LEARNED: Make sure to fill the bolt holes with silicone also. Don't just put the sillicone around the outside seal. I hope this helps someone else. My SES light was driving me CRAZY. All is good now though!
06-18-2012, 07:21 AM
#12
I did similiar to what prophecy did. The bolts broke off so I used RC tire glue (anderson-rc.com) to reattach the valve. The p0455 and p1448 went away. However, 2 days later I got a p1456 code for a "very small EVAP leak". I had it smoke tested yesterday to find it leaking from the bolt holes in the solenoid valve I replaced.
LESSON LEARNED: Make sure to fill the bolt holes with silicone also. Don't just put the sillicone around the outside seal. I hope this helps someone else. My SES light was driving me CRAZY. All is good now though!
LESSON LEARNED: Make sure to fill the bolt holes with silicone also. Don't just put the sillicone around the outside seal. I hope this helps someone else. My SES light was driving me CRAZY. All is good now though!
12-04-2012, 02:38 PM
#14
Junior Member
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Warren Countym NJ
Posts: 25
This thread still comes in google search. I now have these two codes for my 03 maxima. I had the same problem 3 times on my 97.
Here is my <$10 fix.
My problem, 3 times over, was the solenoid valve. This time with the '03, I knew what it was. I pulled the canister out after I could not get the valve out. I broke one canister bolt and one solenoid bolt head. After canister was out, I pried out the valve untill it broke too. The mounting tab around the broken bolt cracked off. Oh well, thats what epoxy and RTV is for.
The valve is usually the culprit. Apply 12V to it and it doesn't move. Keep applying (on/off) 12V untill it moves. If not, get in with a small screw driver (through hole that goes in canister) and get above the plastic flat above the o-ring and try to get it to move. Its just plastic so be careful. ALso, since it's jsut plastic, it shouldn't ever rust completely. I suppose some of has to be metal becasue it is a solenoid. But it appears the plunger is plastic.
Once free, hope it works with 12V. Mine freed up at first then kept sticking. Use O-Ring lube (probably get a little single use $1 pack at counter) and lube the plunger and edge of o-ring and flat plastic above o-ring (valve). O-Ring lube is generally safe for plastics. The stuff I used said Great for all polymers and plastics.
THe valve piece and o-ring can be rotated so you can lube all the way around. (360 deg.). Use it sparingly.
After lubing and moving it (12V on/off) a lot of times (50-100 whatever). I'm pretty sure it will stay free.
Now I have to get this back it the canister and RTV the heck out of it. I'll use RTV not Epoxy so that I can remove it in the future when it fails again (if I still have this toublesome 03).
I'll get back to inspection in few days when CE goes off. But I'm 99% sure this will work.
BAck on my 97 that had the same setup, on the third try, I actually cracked the canister. I couldn't get a bolt out that was spinning so I just ripped it out. Well, RTV later it sealed and still work.
Unless a canister is full of water or severely cracked, and unless the soleneoid vavle is dead short, (unlikely) or physically damaged inside (i.e. broken plunger, broken spring and still unlikely), there should be no need to buy a 50-80 solenoid. And even a canister full of water (a seperate major issue) can probably be dried out and still functional.
Cracking a canister or ripping bolts out of it is small peanuts. Just glue it up. This is cake walk but still a major PIA.
Take it from me, I'm an aerospace engineer. Cars are a lot simpler than aircraft equipment and a lot less critical. (And if you knew what some techs do to aircraft equipment to get it to work, flight critical or not, you'd be amazed).
Here is my <$10 fix.
My problem, 3 times over, was the solenoid valve. This time with the '03, I knew what it was. I pulled the canister out after I could not get the valve out. I broke one canister bolt and one solenoid bolt head. After canister was out, I pried out the valve untill it broke too. The mounting tab around the broken bolt cracked off. Oh well, thats what epoxy and RTV is for.
The valve is usually the culprit. Apply 12V to it and it doesn't move. Keep applying (on/off) 12V untill it moves. If not, get in with a small screw driver (through hole that goes in canister) and get above the plastic flat above the o-ring and try to get it to move. Its just plastic so be careful. ALso, since it's jsut plastic, it shouldn't ever rust completely. I suppose some of has to be metal becasue it is a solenoid. But it appears the plunger is plastic.
Once free, hope it works with 12V. Mine freed up at first then kept sticking. Use O-Ring lube (probably get a little single use $1 pack at counter) and lube the plunger and edge of o-ring and flat plastic above o-ring (valve). O-Ring lube is generally safe for plastics. The stuff I used said Great for all polymers and plastics.
THe valve piece and o-ring can be rotated so you can lube all the way around. (360 deg.). Use it sparingly.
After lubing and moving it (12V on/off) a lot of times (50-100 whatever). I'm pretty sure it will stay free.
Now I have to get this back it the canister and RTV the heck out of it. I'll use RTV not Epoxy so that I can remove it in the future when it fails again (if I still have this toublesome 03).
I'll get back to inspection in few days when CE goes off. But I'm 99% sure this will work.
BAck on my 97 that had the same setup, on the third try, I actually cracked the canister. I couldn't get a bolt out that was spinning so I just ripped it out. Well, RTV later it sealed and still work.
Unless a canister is full of water or severely cracked, and unless the soleneoid vavle is dead short, (unlikely) or physically damaged inside (i.e. broken plunger, broken spring and still unlikely), there should be no need to buy a 50-80 solenoid. And even a canister full of water (a seperate major issue) can probably be dried out and still functional.
Cracking a canister or ripping bolts out of it is small peanuts. Just glue it up. This is cake walk but still a major PIA.
Take it from me, I'm an aerospace engineer. Cars are a lot simpler than aircraft equipment and a lot less critical. (And if you knew what some techs do to aircraft equipment to get it to work, flight critical or not, you'd be amazed).
Last edited by gd420mj; 12-04-2012 at 02:40 PM.
04-30-2016, 11:48 AM
#17
Supporting Maxima.org Member
Join Date: Mar 2004
Posts: 73
2002 Maxima
Had code P1448. Code went away by itself, but the Malfunction Indicator Light (MIL) remained on and could be read as ON on the Code Reader.
I replaced the Vapor Canister Purge Valve using a Dorman 911-502, purchased from Amazon for $45.
To repair/replace - I first backed the maxima rear wheels onto ramps to make access to purge valve/canister easier. Using standard pliers, I removed the moved the clamps, and was able to disconnect the three hoses from the charcoal canister. Disconnected the wiring plug (release clip is on top side of plug). Then attempted to remove the three bolts holding the canister on; they snapped off due to corrosion. Now, with canister off the vehicle, I soaked the two bolts that hold the Purge Valve; aI ttempted removal and the bolts snapped off. I then pried the purge valve off; rusty bolt studs remained; soaked again; and tried to remove but bolts broke off flush with the canister. I then drilled out the bolts, and re-tapped new threads. Using some RTV as a gasket maker for extra insurance, I attached the new valve to the old canister. To reintsall the canister, I drilled out the broken studs on the charcoal canister mounting bracket under car. Then used zip ties to reattach the canister to the bracket. Reinstalled the electrical connection and three hoses. After 5 days of driving, MIL self cleared and car passed inspection. Thanks to all who have posted in the past. Cost me $45 and about and hour of time. HTH Regards.
Had code P1448. Code went away by itself, but the Malfunction Indicator Light (MIL) remained on and could be read as ON on the Code Reader.
I replaced the Vapor Canister Purge Valve using a Dorman 911-502, purchased from Amazon for $45.
To repair/replace - I first backed the maxima rear wheels onto ramps to make access to purge valve/canister easier. Using standard pliers, I removed the moved the clamps, and was able to disconnect the three hoses from the charcoal canister. Disconnected the wiring plug (release clip is on top side of plug). Then attempted to remove the three bolts holding the canister on; they snapped off due to corrosion. Now, with canister off the vehicle, I soaked the two bolts that hold the Purge Valve; aI ttempted removal and the bolts snapped off. I then pried the purge valve off; rusty bolt studs remained; soaked again; and tried to remove but bolts broke off flush with the canister. I then drilled out the bolts, and re-tapped new threads. Using some RTV as a gasket maker for extra insurance, I attached the new valve to the old canister. To reintsall the canister, I drilled out the broken studs on the charcoal canister mounting bracket under car. Then used zip ties to reattach the canister to the bracket. Reinstalled the electrical connection and three hoses. After 5 days of driving, MIL self cleared and car passed inspection. Thanks to all who have posted in the past. Cost me $45 and about and hour of time. HTH Regards.
Last edited by SpottyJ; 05-04-2016 at 02:24 PM.
01-19-2017, 05:02 AM
#19
so when ever i did this between 2012 and 2013 i had caulked the crap out of that area and the code went away for years 5-4 to be exact..
last week it came back, when the two codes P0455 & P1448 appeared randomly one morning about 5 mins into morning commute... also the standard P0328 came along with those two but according to common rule of thumb that third code literally comes up all the time piggy backing on other codes and usually isnt anything.
I was really low on oil coincidentally... but.... after finding this thread and remembering having these codes in the past...has brought me back to the evap canister...i am thinking clean up the now old dried up caulk and recaulk all the areas i did before sucessfully eliminating the codes. Fingers crossed will post results possibly pics when I get to it.
Thanks ORG one love
last week it came back, when the two codes P0455 & P1448 appeared randomly one morning about 5 mins into morning commute... also the standard P0328 came along with those two but according to common rule of thumb that third code literally comes up all the time piggy backing on other codes and usually isnt anything.
I was really low on oil coincidentally... but.... after finding this thread and remembering having these codes in the past...has brought me back to the evap canister...i am thinking clean up the now old dried up caulk and recaulk all the areas i did before sucessfully eliminating the codes. Fingers crossed will post results possibly pics when I get to it.
Thanks ORG one love
02-02-2017, 05:07 PM
#22
03-08-2017, 10:54 AM
#24
the light went off for about 24 hrs yesterday,
then it came back on the same freakin spot in my morning commute, roughly same time of day it first came on . really weird....
i hope i can just caulk the ish more
then it came back on the same freakin spot in my morning commute, roughly same time of day it first came on . really weird....
i hope i can just caulk the ish more
07-05-2017, 08:46 AM
#25
i will post my findings on the next step, caulked 5 years ago around valve and was good untill this year, tried caulking again by caulking on top of original, but no luck having a shop smoke test, if its still around valve, may...open the can of worms and try to replace valve w careful bolt preserving.
07-06-2017, 11:07 AM
#27
i am wondering if I just buy a new evap canister looks like ebay has $138 new OEM, and valve at cansiter $38 , and then keep the old one and fix it up and sell it... its just no way knowing when I sell it if it will pass....and dont wanna burn anyone....
and then the other thought is, i guess the car dosent like running w out this crap? like if i get this canister off to rehab the bolts and studs and get the new vavle on the old canister...i have to do that all in one day....to be able to daily drive....
ugh... to me... for $176 in parts.... just have a shop do it... be done.... and lose the $138 for a piece of mind w a new one...
not sure here, prolly thinking hands off approach minus part sourcing which mechanic was kool with even though they usually dont like doing customer parts.
and then the other thought is, i guess the car dosent like running w out this crap? like if i get this canister off to rehab the bolts and studs and get the new vavle on the old canister...i have to do that all in one day....to be able to daily drive....
ugh... to me... for $176 in parts.... just have a shop do it... be done.... and lose the $138 for a piece of mind w a new one...
not sure here, prolly thinking hands off approach minus part sourcing which mechanic was kool with even though they usually dont like doing customer parts.
07-06-2017, 11:29 AM
#29
to add to this, there are no leaks with the smoke test just malfunctioning valves on either end......
is it a fluke having the engine side of systems valve not work? no body on the forums have talked about the engine side evap valve
is it a fluke having the engine side of systems valve not work? no body on the forums have talked about the engine side evap valve
07-11-2017, 10:50 AM
#30
so this weekend i am replacing both EVAP PVCV (engine side) and EVAP PURGE VALVE (canister side) and EVAP CANISTER..
fingeres crossed.
i found bad ace prices if anyone needs these things, found OEM canister for $135
fingeres crossed.
i found bad ace prices if anyone needs these things, found OEM canister for $135
07-11-2017, 07:06 PM
#31
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 432
Good luck, hopefully it's not too rusty down there. I need to replace my EVAP Vent Valve and it's pretty crusty down there. I have been spraying the bolts with PB Blaster in advance
07-14-2017, 09:37 AM
#32
I hope you know its nearly impossible to remove that valve w out damaging the EVAP canister in some way or another... its been done but w great care which i think you are taking. but just making sure.
07-14-2017, 07:54 PM
#33
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 432
Worst case scenario is the bolts snap. Then I just JB Weld in the new valve. But I'd like for the bolts not to snap, so I feel spray PB Blaster on them weeks or even months in advance can only do good.
07-17-2017, 07:38 AM
#34
2 of 3 canister mounting bolts snapped as well, i just did all this, it wasnt too bad at all under 2 hours counting walking to garage jacking car and cleaning up. going to shop today , we will see. (light hasnt gone off in 45 miles and 2 days later)
07-18-2017, 05:20 AM
#35
well the light never went away, had the shop that told me to replace the EVAP PVCV , EVAP CANISTER , EVAP PURGE VALVE, and they reset light, came back on highway 30 miles later at 55 mph...
checkin codes at lunch....im kinda dissapointed they made me throw parts at this...
checkin codes at lunch....im kinda dissapointed they made me throw parts at this...
07-18-2017, 10:57 AM
#38
code pulled was 1444, gas cap was 5 years ago, beyond the baby steps,
we reconnected the connector on the EVAP PVCV, it seemed just possibly it wasn't seated fully (when i installed it), so we will wait and see, i have 30 mile commute one way so...
we reconnected the connector on the EVAP PVCV, it seemed just possibly it wasn't seated fully (when i installed it), so we will wait and see, i have 30 mile commute one way so...
07-19-2017, 04:24 AM
#39
http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/n...+solenoid,4936
07-19-2017, 04:42 AM
#40
Member
Join Date: Dec 2013
Posts: 152
im in the same boat as you prophecy99. I have the vap leak going on as well, did a smoke test and i see where the bolts are in, theres a hairlinecrack right there and is leaking from there. Im thinking of just grabbing a full set from a junkyard for like $100, the purge valve, canister and vent solenoid. I assured with them it works properly or else they said bring it back. Why go with them, well first and foremost its OEM, second, these dont go bad that often. Brand new OEM is insanely expensive here in Canada and then going aftermarket I can run into the issues youre running into now. I didn't know about the silicone trick so thats something I can look into as well.
As for your code coming back, I think give it a few days, maybe the system needs to run through a few cycles? When mine came on almost a year ago, I remember it would go away for a month, then come back then go away and just in the past few months, its stayed on.
As for your code coming back, I think give it a few days, maybe the system needs to run through a few cycles? When mine came on almost a year ago, I remember it would go away for a month, then come back then go away and just in the past few months, its stayed on.