350z clutch swap issues
11-16-2011, 10:01 PM
#1
350z clutch swap issues
I have a shop that put in a Fidanza LWFW and 350z clutch kit and they claim that the 350z pressure plate is hitting the trans. They said they need to shave the trans where it is hitting about 1/8 of an inch. I never heard of anyone else having this problem. Is this uncommon or is there something that can be done?? Thanks!
11-16-2011, 10:11 PM
#2
It should literally be a bolt-up affair...unless the pressure plate or the transmission casing is warped.
I'd feel a little uncomfortable about arbitrarily shaving metal off of my transmission. What happens if you ever decide to go back to the stock setup...?
I'd feel a little uncomfortable about arbitrarily shaving metal off of my transmission. What happens if you ever decide to go back to the stock setup...?
11-16-2011, 10:18 PM
#3
And if I would go back to stock, it wouldn't matter. They're just making some more room inside the trans.
EDIT: Also, he said that they noticed a noise once they bolted the trans back up, if that helps.
Last edited by viperboy; 11-16-2011 at 10:26 PM.
11-16-2011, 11:36 PM
#5
DaveB ordered it for me, I'm sure it's the right one. However, PN is 30205-CD00C.
Also, I just found out today that DaveB was let go yesterday. Really sad
EDIT: Uh oh...
http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...-se-noise.html
Same thing for me, so I guess all will be well. Just really weird that it needs to be shaved.
Also, I just found out today that DaveB was let go yesterday. Really sad
EDIT: Uh oh...
http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...-se-noise.html
Same thing for me, so I guess all will be well. Just really weird that it needs to be shaved.
Last edited by viperboy; 11-16-2011 at 11:44 PM.
11-16-2011, 11:53 PM
#7
11-17-2011, 04:47 AM
#8
Really??? Which Dave B? There were two working at SouthPoint the last few times I called. David Burnett is the older one and has a very genteel manner about him(He's the original DaveB). The other Dave B working there has a bit of a chip on his shoulder. I hope it's the latter if that's true.
11-17-2011, 06:41 AM
#9
Really??? Which Dave B? There were two working at SouthPoint the last few times I called. David Burnett is the older one and has a very genteel manner about him(He's the original DaveB). The other Dave B working there has a bit of a chip on his shoulder. I hope it's the latter if that's true.
Yeah, I was going to use a 350z PP in my car... then I found out the 03-05 ones are the same as FWD ones, so I found a 02-03 PP for $40 shipped BNIB from a nissan dealer on ebay... pulled le trigger.
I have a mountain of PP's @ work... the only ones that are different are the Rev Up and HR ones.
Last edited by aackshun; 11-17-2011 at 06:44 AM.
11-17-2011, 11:56 AM
#14
Bad news. Got to the shop and the car is ****ed. It's bucking like crazy and they are saying It's throwing a code for all of my o2 sensors and cps sensor. Nissan did my cps because there was a recall on it and I have headers but all my o2's shouldn't throw code.
Also, the clutch pedal is really really light. Is it supposed to be?? I doubt it, about 2x as light as the bad clutch.
Lastly, with the bad clutch it was making a loud rattling noise with the clutch out that would stop when you put the clutch in. It's still doing that but not as loud.
Is there anything I can tell them to check?? I think the bucking could be from timing if they put the flywheel in wrong. No idea about the really soft clutch though. And the noise in the trans still seems like it could be the throwout bearing which I gave them the stock maxima one for the z clutch.
Also, the clutch pedal is really really light. Is it supposed to be?? I doubt it, about 2x as light as the bad clutch.
Lastly, with the bad clutch it was making a loud rattling noise with the clutch out that would stop when you put the clutch in. It's still doing that but not as loud.
Is there anything I can tell them to check?? I think the bucking could be from timing if they put the flywheel in wrong. No idea about the really soft clutch though. And the noise in the trans still seems like it could be the throwout bearing which I gave them the stock maxima one for the z clutch.
11-17-2011, 01:54 PM
#15
Bad news. Got to the shop and the car is ****ed. It's bucking like crazy and they are saying It's throwing a code for all of my o2 sensors and cps sensor. Nissan did my cps because there was a recall on it and I have headers but all my o2's shouldn't throw code.
Also, the clutch pedal is really really light. Is it supposed to be?? I doubt it, about 2x as light as the bad clutch.
Lastly, with the bad clutch it was making a loud rattling noise with the clutch out that would stop when you put the clutch in. It's still doing that but not as loud.
Is there anything I can tell them to check?? I think the bucking could be from timing if they put the flywheel in wrong. No idea about the really soft clutch though. And the noise in the trans still seems like it could be the throwout bearing which I gave them the stock maxima one for the z clutch.
Also, the clutch pedal is really really light. Is it supposed to be?? I doubt it, about 2x as light as the bad clutch.
Lastly, with the bad clutch it was making a loud rattling noise with the clutch out that would stop when you put the clutch in. It's still doing that but not as loud.
Is there anything I can tell them to check?? I think the bucking could be from timing if they put the flywheel in wrong. No idea about the really soft clutch though. And the noise in the trans still seems like it could be the throwout bearing which I gave them the stock maxima one for the z clutch.
Hopefully they used the FWD flywheel alignment. but that might be the issue...
There are 2 bleeders for the 5.5 gen clutch, make sure its blead properly.
Sounds like the clutch pedal needs some adjustment (pushing the clutch fork too far in) my z clutch done this at first also.
Main issue imo woudl be did they get the FWD alignment on the flywheel. you used a fidanza?
11-17-2011, 02:51 PM
#16
Hopefully they used the FWD flywheel alignment. but that might be the issue...
There are 2 bleeders for the 5.5 gen clutch, make sure its blead properly.
Sounds like the clutch pedal needs some adjustment (pushing the clutch fork too far in) my z clutch done this at first also.
Main issue imo woudl be did they get the FWD alignment on the flywheel. you used a fidanza?
There are 2 bleeders for the 5.5 gen clutch, make sure its blead properly.
Sounds like the clutch pedal needs some adjustment (pushing the clutch fork too far in) my z clutch done this at first also.
Main issue imo woudl be did they get the FWD alignment on the flywheel. you used a fidanza?
11-21-2011, 09:46 AM
#17
The car is still in the shop This is what they are telling me... the softness of the clutch is only determined by the pressue plate you put in the car. It's the 350Z pressure plate and I've driven Z's and they have a hard clutch, which I like. Shouldn't it feel similar in my Max? Like I said it was wayyy softer than the worn out OEM clutch with 125k on it. It holds and doesn't slip or anything now, it's just an extremely soft pedal feel.
For the noise in the trans, they say it's something internal and not the clutch. Could be a bearing or something else. The noise goes away when the clutch is pressed in, but the noise is there when the clutch is out. Kinda sounds like a rubbing noise, not the machine shop noise it sounded like with the old clutch lol so it's quieter but there is still a noise, which concerns me. Could it be rubbing from where they had to shave a little bit off the trans for the pressure plate not fitting exactly?
Lastly, the car was misfiring like crazy when I test drove it. Could that happen if the flywheel was installed incorrectly? It's random when it happens as far as RPM and throttle position. They're also saying I have codes for all my o2's (shouldn't have codes for all the o2's with headers, right??) and a CPS code. But Nissan did a recall on the CPS and LCA's last year so it should be just fine. They claim it came in with a CPS code, but I kinda doubt it.
Anyway, I'm really stuck here and I would appreciate any help you guys could give me. Thanks!
This is what they are telling me... the softness of the clutch is only determined by the pressue plate you put in the car. It's the 350Z pressure plate and I've driven Z's and they have a hard clutch, which I like. Shouldn't it feel similar in my Max? Like I said it was wayyy softer than the worn out OEM clutch with 125k on it. It holds and doesn't slip or anything now, it's just an extremely soft pedal feel.For the noise in the trans, they say it's something internal and not the clutch. Could be a bearing or something else. The noise goes away when the clutch is pressed in, but the noise is there when the clutch is out. Kinda sounds like a rubbing noise, not the machine shop noise it sounded like with the old clutch lol so it's quieter but there is still a noise, which concerns me. Could it be rubbing from where they had to shave a little bit off the trans for the pressure plate not fitting exactly?
Lastly, the car was misfiring like crazy when I test drove it. Could that happen if the flywheel was installed incorrectly? It's random when it happens as far as RPM and throttle position. They're also saying I have codes for all my o2's (shouldn't have codes for all the o2's with headers, right??) and a CPS code. But Nissan did a recall on the CPS and LCA's last year so it should be just fine. They claim it came in with a CPS code, but I kinda doubt it.
Anyway, I'm really stuck here and I would appreciate any help you guys could give me. Thanks!
11-21-2011, 02:11 PM
#18
The car is still in the shop This is what they are telling me... the softness of the clutch is only determined by the pressue plate you put in the car. It's the 350Z pressure plate and I've driven Z's and they have a hard clutch, which I like. Shouldn't it feel similar in my Max? Like I said it was wayyy softer than the worn out OEM clutch with 125k on it. It holds and doesn't slip or anything now, it's just an extremely soft pedal feel.
For the noise in the trans, they say it's something internal and not the clutch. Could be a bearing or something else. The noise goes away when the clutch is pressed in, but the noise is there when the clutch is out. Kinda sounds like a rubbing noise, not the machine shop noise it sounded like with the old clutch lol so it's quieter but there is still a noise, which concerns me. Could it be rubbing from where they had to shave a little bit off the trans for the pressure plate not fitting exactly?
Lastly, the car was misfiring like crazy when I test drove it. Could that happen if the flywheel was installed incorrectly? It's random when it happens as far as RPM and throttle position. They're also saying I have codes for all my o2's (shouldn't have codes for all the o2's with headers, right??) and a CPS code. But Nissan did a recall on the CPS and LCA's last year so it should be just fine. They claim it came in with a CPS code, but I kinda doubt it.
Anyway, I'm really stuck here and I would appreciate any help you guys could give me. Thanks!
This is what they are telling me... the softness of the clutch is only determined by the pressue plate you put in the car. It's the 350Z pressure plate and I've driven Z's and they have a hard clutch, which I like. Shouldn't it feel similar in my Max? Like I said it was wayyy softer than the worn out OEM clutch with 125k on it. It holds and doesn't slip or anything now, it's just an extremely soft pedal feel.For the noise in the trans, they say it's something internal and not the clutch. Could be a bearing or something else. The noise goes away when the clutch is pressed in, but the noise is there when the clutch is out. Kinda sounds like a rubbing noise, not the machine shop noise it sounded like with the old clutch lol so it's quieter but there is still a noise, which concerns me. Could it be rubbing from where they had to shave a little bit off the trans for the pressure plate not fitting exactly?
Lastly, the car was misfiring like crazy when I test drove it. Could that happen if the flywheel was installed incorrectly? It's random when it happens as far as RPM and throttle position. They're also saying I have codes for all my o2's (shouldn't have codes for all the o2's with headers, right??) and a CPS code. But Nissan did a recall on the CPS and LCA's last year so it should be just fine. They claim it came in with a CPS code, but I kinda doubt it.
Anyway, I'm really stuck here and I would appreciate any help you guys could give me. Thanks!
we did a 5spd swap into a 02 (3.5) and eventually the grinding noise just went away after a couple of miles on them.
i think you should have them bled the system if you say the pedal feels soft.
lastly , is the Flywheel a FWD or RWD ? the CPS could be off which could be the reason your misfiring.
11-21-2011, 03:42 PM
#19
when the shaved it , they did deck the surface evenly ?
we did a 5spd swap into a 02 (3.5) and eventually the grinding noise just went away after a couple of miles on them.
i think you should have them bled the system if you say the pedal feels soft.
lastly , is the Flywheel a FWD or RWD ? the CPS could be off which could be the reason your misfiring.
we did a 5spd swap into a 02 (3.5) and eventually the grinding noise just went away after a couple of miles on them.
i think you should have them bled the system if you say the pedal feels soft.
lastly , is the Flywheel a FWD or RWD ? the CPS could be off which could be the reason your misfiring.
And bad news from the shop... they're telling me the noise I'm hearing is a bad input shaft and that the whole trans needs replaced. This keeps getting ****tier by the day. Thoughts?
11-21-2011, 08:08 PM
#20
Did you use a Maxima release bearing?
And were you having all these problems before the install? Sounds like something definitely went wrong.
If the CPS was off, the car would have never started to begin with. So you don't have to worry about that.
And were you having all these problems before the install? Sounds like something definitely went wrong.
If the CPS was off, the car would have never started to begin with. So you don't have to worry about that.
Last edited by rroderiques77; 11-21-2011 at 08:12 PM.
11-21-2011, 08:24 PM
#21
False if the Crank sensor is not even hooked up the car WILL CRANK AND RUN
TRUST ME! it happned to me ahahahaha you will have no tach tho! and cranking will take 7+ seconds
Im thinking, its on RWD alignment. edit: not sure tho, if its on RWD it woudl probably run REALLY BAD. if even at all as the timing firing woudl be off a lotttt. so it might be on FWD alignment
noise might be from using a different p/n then i used, idk the differences.
IMO they saying your trans is bad, when really its the clutch issues
Idk you situation but drop the trans and do it yourself?
TRUST ME! it happned to me ahahahaha you will have no tach tho! and cranking will take 7+ seconds
Im thinking, its on RWD alignment. edit: not sure tho, if its on RWD it woudl probably run REALLY BAD. if even at all as the timing firing woudl be off a lotttt. so it might be on FWD alignment
noise might be from using a different p/n then i used, idk the differences.
IMO they saying your trans is bad, when really its the clutch issues
Idk you situation but drop the trans and do it yourself?
11-21-2011, 09:30 PM
#22
hopefully you have a FWD throw out bearing and the shop knows what they are doing ,
most shops just install whatever parts you drop off and probally wouldnt even think twice and just try to force it to make it work,
Hopefully this shop will work with you ,
most shops just install whatever parts you drop off and probally wouldnt even think twice and just try to force it to make it work,
Hopefully this shop will work with you ,
11-22-2011, 05:54 AM
#24
hmm
Yeah looked through the thread and no where does he say he got the max bearing, so possible they used the z one.
11-22-2011, 06:57 AM
#25
False if the Crank sensor is not even hooked up the car WILL CRANK AND RUN
TRUST ME! it happned to me ahahahaha you will have no tach tho! and cranking will take 7+ seconds
Im thinking, its on RWD alignment. edit: not sure tho, if its on RWD it woudl probably run REALLY BAD. if even at all as the timing firing woudl be off a lotttt. so it might be on FWD alignment
noise might be from using a different p/n then i used, idk the differences.
IMO they saying your trans is bad, when really its the clutch issues
Idk you situation but drop the trans and do it yourself?
TRUST ME! it happned to me ahahahaha you will have no tach tho! and cranking will take 7+ seconds
Im thinking, its on RWD alignment. edit: not sure tho, if its on RWD it woudl probably run REALLY BAD. if even at all as the timing firing woudl be off a lotttt. so it might be on FWD alignment
noise might be from using a different p/n then i used, idk the differences.
IMO they saying your trans is bad, when really its the clutch issues
Idk you situation but drop the trans and do it yourself?
11-22-2011, 07:05 AM
#26
So his must be on FWD alignment then.
11-22-2011, 09:33 AM
#27
False if the Crank sensor is not even hooked up the car WILL CRANK AND RUN
TRUST ME! it happned to me ahahahaha you will have no tach tho! and cranking will take 7+ seconds
Im thinking, its on RWD alignment. edit: not sure tho, if its on RWD it woudl probably run REALLY BAD. if even at all as the timing firing woudl be off a lotttt. so it might be on FWD alignment
noise might be from using a different p/n then i used, idk the differences.
IMO they saying your trans is bad, when really its the clutch issues
Idk you situation but drop the trans and do it yourself?
TRUST ME! it happned to me ahahahaha you will have no tach tho! and cranking will take 7+ seconds
Im thinking, its on RWD alignment. edit: not sure tho, if its on RWD it woudl probably run REALLY BAD. if even at all as the timing firing woudl be off a lotttt. so it might be on FWD alignment
noise might be from using a different p/n then i used, idk the differences.
IMO they saying your trans is bad, when really its the clutch issues
Idk you situation but drop the trans and do it yourself?
I don't have the tools or the know how to do this myself.
At this point, I'm thinking I might as well just do the trans. I'm looking for a Spec-V trans. Anyone have input on that? I know it should be as easy as swapping the housing over, correct? And no issues with the 350z clutch? What years would I wanna pull the trans from? Thanks for all the help guys.
11-22-2011, 09:38 AM
#28
Yes, I had them use the Maxima release bearing, DaveB got me everything I needed for the swap.
Yeah they're telling me that they pulled the trans again and when the rotate the input shaft that there is noise and something wrong with it. What pisses me off is that the dude is trying to charge me for pulling the trans again. I'm like no way, it's a clutch install issue and if you guys are a TRANSMISSION SHOP and didn't check the trans before putting it back in, that's your ****ing fault.
I don't have the tools or the know how to do this myself.
Thanks man, I hope so too.
I took it to Aamco on Hamilton. I figured since they were a transmission shop and were ratessd really well when I looked them up that they wouldn't have a problem with this. I don't even know where AddOnz is.
Thanks for the info, so they probably did something stupid like not hooking up and o2, or maybe they dropped an o2. I hear that the o2's are very sensitive if they are dropped. AFR was all over the place but they said I had a light for a crank position sensor when the car came in and that it still has it after the clutch. I'm sure that could cause the bucking, but it ran perfectly fine when I dropped it off so I think they are lying about it having a CPS code when it came in. The CEL was definitely on because of the headers though.
At this point, I'm thinking I might as well just do the trans. I'm looking for a Spec-V trans. Anyone have input on that? I know it should be as easy as swapping the housing over, correct? And no issues with the 350z clutch? What years would I wanna pull the trans from? Thanks for all the help guys.
Yeah they're telling me that they pulled the trans again and when the rotate the input shaft that there is noise and something wrong with it. What pisses me off is that the dude is trying to charge me for pulling the trans again. I'm like no way, it's a clutch install issue and if you guys are a TRANSMISSION SHOP and didn't check the trans before putting it back in, that's your ****ing fault.
I don't have the tools or the know how to do this myself.
Thanks man, I hope so too.
I took it to Aamco on Hamilton. I figured since they were a transmission shop and were ratessd really well when I looked them up that they wouldn't have a problem with this. I don't even know where AddOnz is.
Thanks for the info, so they probably did something stupid like not hooking up and o2, or maybe they dropped an o2. I hear that the o2's are very sensitive if they are dropped. AFR was all over the place but they said I had a light for a crank position sensor when the car came in and that it still has it after the clutch. I'm sure that could cause the bucking, but it ran perfectly fine when I dropped it off so I think they are lying about it having a CPS code when it came in. The CEL was definitely on because of the headers though.
At this point, I'm thinking I might as well just do the trans. I'm looking for a Spec-V trans. Anyone have input on that? I know it should be as easy as swapping the housing over, correct? And no issues with the 350z clutch? What years would I wanna pull the trans from? Thanks for all the help guys.
Aamco?? serous?
IMO, do not get a spec v trans no telling how ************* they will swap the bellhousings that will be another nightmare!
IDK what else to tell you. Other then something is not right. Which u know that already.
11-22-2011, 09:52 AM
#29
Yeah, I thought they would be good. Nissan wanted like 1K+ to do the clutch, no ****ing way. BTW, I have an 06 Spec V trans, 46k miles on it for $400 right near my house. The 06's still fit, and just have the shorter FD, right? All that needs done is the bell housing swap right? Nothing else?
11-22-2011, 11:49 AM
#30
Yeah, I thought they would be good. Nissan wanted like 1K+ to do the clutch, no ****ing way. BTW, I have an 06 Spec V trans, 46k miles on it for $400 right near my house. The 06's still fit, and just have the shorter FD, right? All that needs done is the bell housing swap right? Nothing else?
Better off with a small shop imo. The chain stores are well...
Ya that will work. its not a bell houisng swap really. its a move all the gears onto the 3.5 housing deal. Nothing easy about that really. I took it to a real trans shop 2 hrs away from me to swap my gears over.
11-22-2011, 06:09 PM
#31
Better off with a small shop imo. The chain stores are well...
Ya that will work. its not a bell houisng swap really. its a move all the gears onto the 3.5 housing deal. Nothing easy about that really. I took it to a real trans shop 2 hrs away from me to swap my gears over.
Ya that will work. its not a bell houisng swap really. its a move all the gears onto the 3.5 housing deal. Nothing easy about that really. I took it to a real trans shop 2 hrs away from me to swap my gears over.
UPDATE: Trans is on its way out. Went to the shop today and there is some play in the input shaft and when you turn it, you can hear a clunking. I was going to get a spec-V trans and have them swap the gears, but I think I'm going to have them just put the trans back in. I have the money to get the new trans, but I'm just going to wait until the thing grenades itself. It could be another 50k miles, for all I know, maybe 1500, but I called a different trans shop and the difference in swapping a trans is $100 bucks if it's already in the car vs out. I figure it can't really hurt the clutch or flywheel so I'm just going to run it til it dies then swap it. I did the same with my clutch, I was going to swap it at 85-90k because the engagement point was starting to change and the clutch made it to 123k (almost another year and a half).
Last 2 things... is there something I can have them to do make sure the clutch isn't soft?? No one has answered this, but a 350z swapped PP/Clutch with a Fidanza should have a heavy feel to it, right?
Also, I have a code for the crank position sensor that the shop is claiming is causing my bucking issue that never happened before I brought the car in
it's a P0335, but the car ran just fine, never had an issue. They said the code is still there after doing the clutch. Could a bad CPS cause the car to buck horribly? I think it's like a $25 part, should I have them do it before putting the trans back in if there is a CEL for it? Or can it be done with the trans out?
11-22-2011, 07:19 PM
#32
I have the exact same cps code on my 5.5 gen after a 350z clutch and fidanza flywheel install. Also, the problem that the op is encountering regarding the bucking is the same problem im facing as well. At one point the cps was removed and cleaned since metal shavings were found on the sensor and the bucking went away for a short period of time, but now it's back again. Not sure if I should go ahead and get a new sensor or where to start from this point. Any ideas?
11-25-2011, 03:48 PM
#34
So, the crank position sensor was bad. They cleaned it and it was still happening, replaced it and all is well. Still though, the clutch is so soft. I would really like to know if there is anything more that I can do. I will be picking up the car tomorrow so I would love to have them look at it tomorrow. I really hate that it is lighter than stock, I figured it would be very heavy.
11-25-2011, 05:52 PM
#35
You would have to look at the maxima release bearing and the Z bearing. Is the Z bigger? It puts pressure on the fingers, and if the maxima is not the same size there will be less pressure on the fingers and will feel lighter.
11-25-2011, 09:31 PM
#36
Release bearing PN was 30502-41u20. Should be the Maxima bearing, that's what was used. I was hoping someone would chime in who has driven or has a Z clutch swapped Maxima. Maybe I can take the spring out of the clutch pedal lol might be too heavy then lol
11-26-2011, 07:59 AM
#37
Cory is the owner and he will hook you up. Tell them Javon sent you, they will know me. I been there so much they know the 5.5 gen in and out! They did everything on my car; clutch, flywheel, spacers, headers, subframe collars, all my ES bushings, my catback exhaust. They do FANTASTIC work, they even do engine builds. I know this doesn't help not, but just for future reference.
PS: I met this dude that work at the Papa John's that said he knew you. He was looking at my Maxima and said his friend have a Maxima just like that with headers, spacers, etc. He got to talking and then I knew he was talking about you. He said that he got a BMW that he is working on. He was talking about the time you beat that G35...lol. When yall get together in the summer and do some meets and stuff hit me up!
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