Cattman y-pipe and gutted Pre-cats, guys who have pls step in
#1
Cattman y-pipe and gutted Pre-cats, guys who have pls step in
So this weekend I finally got around to putting on my Cattman y and gutting my pre-cats. It went pretty well, I lucked out not breaking any bolts and everything came off nicely. Gutted both pre's off the car, for the rear I used a long drill bit and and a long chisel, it was not that bad. I used new gaskets all around and there is no leaks so far. For the post o2's i used the Canadian version of the anti-fowlers (I couldn't find those damn things anywhere), called o2 extensions made by vibrant, which were $60 for two The plus side to them being that there have different sized pucks that can be circlipped into the end, to allow different amounts of air flow. It comes with three different sizes, or you can not put one in at all, which is what I did. Unfortunately I am getting an ses but couldn't check the codes, so I will after work tonite. My supporting mods are nwp bop and spacers, but I'm gonna grab a maf adaptor today and prob an apexi filter to do a basic short ram setup. I wanted to get a jwt popcharger with the built in velocity stack, but I don't know I can wait for it to come from eBay.
First impressions: I didn't know what to expect for sound, it almost sounds like there is an exhaust leak, but it's all comin out the muffler so that's not possible. It's just at idle and low rpm, which I guess is the norm for the y-pipe but I'm not sure how many ppl have combined it with gutted pre's. It's no louder at wot and there's not really any drone, except when when ur off the throttle revving down, you can hear it. As for performance, it pulls all the way up, no drop off at high rpm, and 2nd feels almost ready to break loose. I'm pretty happy with this mod combo, but I think it's really gonna like the intake. If the codes are for the o2's I'll try adding the smaller holes to them and hopefully I can get rid of it.
Anyone who has either or both of these mods please give your input of what you think, I can't wait to get off work!
First impressions: I didn't know what to expect for sound, it almost sounds like there is an exhaust leak, but it's all comin out the muffler so that's not possible. It's just at idle and low rpm, which I guess is the norm for the y-pipe but I'm not sure how many ppl have combined it with gutted pre's. It's no louder at wot and there's not really any drone, except when when ur off the throttle revving down, you can hear it. As for performance, it pulls all the way up, no drop off at high rpm, and 2nd feels almost ready to break loose. I'm pretty happy with this mod combo, but I think it's really gonna like the intake. If the codes are for the o2's I'll try adding the smaller holes to them and hopefully I can get rid of it.
Anyone who has either or both of these mods please give your input of what you think, I can't wait to get off work!
#2
Copycat.
Exhaust tone will settle in over time into something more consistent. Not sure how much of that is real or in your (my) head, but after a while it all seems normal and smooth.
What about the rest of your exhaust? Main cat, cat-back and muffler?
Exhaust tone will settle in over time into something more consistent. Not sure how much of that is real or in your (my) head, but after a while it all seems normal and smooth.
What about the rest of your exhaust? Main cat, cat-back and muffler?
#4
Cmon Roc, Look at your car, can you blame me? haha. Your filter set-up is one of knights midpipes and apexi? How do you like it? I'm not sure if I can wait for a popcharger haha I think I will prob just throw an apexi on a maf adaptor.
As for the rest of my exhaust, main cat to muffler, is all stock. Next year I'll prob go for a high flow cat and catback, depending on if I go for a turbo
Also when just starting up it takes a little bit before it gets up to the higher warm up idle, did you notice anything like that?
About the sims, I already spent the $60 on the extenders so I'll do my damnedest to make those work. If they don't, sims it is. I'm not sure, but there is a possibility that I mixed up the o2's in the proper bungs, would this cause an issue?
As for the rest of my exhaust, main cat to muffler, is all stock. Next year I'll prob go for a high flow cat and catback, depending on if I go for a turbo
Also when just starting up it takes a little bit before it gets up to the higher warm up idle, did you notice anything like that?
About the sims, I already spent the $60 on the extenders so I'll do my damnedest to make those work. If they don't, sims it is. I'm not sure, but there is a possibility that I mixed up the o2's in the proper bungs, would this cause an issue?
#5
No, I bought my SRI mid-pipe from Frankencar five years ago. But it's the same as Berk, and pretty much the same as knight_yyz's... except mine is powdercoated in metalic silver to match the car. (And then there's the SS t-bolts, and other shiny hardware.)
IDK about temps. When I had the spacers installed, I could have sworn the engine was getting up to temp much quicker, but that was a while ago. Hard to say today.
IDK about temps. When I had the spacers installed, I could have sworn the engine was getting up to temp much quicker, but that was a while ago. Hard to say today.
Last edited by Rochester; 10-11-2011 at 01:08 PM.
#6
I think you misunderstood me, I mean when I first start the car, the higher idle that helps it warm up doesn't kick in right away. It kindnof chugs at around 6-700 for a bit, then steps up to the higher idle.
#7
Um, TB problems coming on, maybe?
#9
Never did. The full TechnoSquare flash was next on my list, but then they discontinued the service... after which my new car schedule made getting a piggyback kind of pointless. Besides, my power mods are all pretty light, and were applied mostly one at a time year over year. In other words, it feels to me that the car adjusted by itself over time.
But IDK really. In all likelihood, I would benefit from actively tuning my car, even though it doesn't seem necessary. Then again, a built-in, filtered water dispenser on your fridge doesn't seem necessary until you get one. And then you can't live without it.
But IDK really. In all likelihood, I would benefit from actively tuning my car, even though it doesn't seem necessary. Then again, a built-in, filtered water dispenser on your fridge doesn't seem necessary until you get one. And then you can't live without it.
#11
Hard to say for sure but like Rochester it seems that since I had my spacers installed (last summer) the engine does take a bit longer to reach running temperature ... But I have not ever experienced a step up in the idle. When the engine is stone cold my start up idle is around 1000-1100 once warmed up it drops to around 600-650 ... think you may have other issues developing.
#12
So I got the codes checked last night, and no 02 codes, the anti-fowlers def work Unfortunately I have the p0300, I remember reading about this code but am powerless with the search down.
I remember someone saying you can take apart the solenoid that's a part of the cam pos sensors, and clean them so I'll try that tonite. Any other suggestions would be much appreciated
I remember someone saying you can take apart the solenoid that's a part of the cam pos sensors, and clean them so I'll try that tonite. Any other suggestions would be much appreciated
#13
Pretty sure P0300 is a cylinder misfire code where it can't differentiate which one is at fault, or there are multiples. An individual misfire would be P0301 or P0302 etc... corresponding to the cylinder number. Coil packs don't last forever, although four of mine are still original equipment. (knock on wood)
As long as the car feels fine, ride it out until it doesn't, or until the codes cause your SES light to go on. At that point, the ECU will probably store the appropriate code, and you can replace the coil pack that's failing because you'll know which one it is. A very expensive alternative is to just replace them all proactively. At $80 - $120 each, that can hurt.
When a coil pack fails, you'll know it. The car will run horribly rough, can barely accelerate, can't drive up an incline, all kinds of nasty. It's pretty embarrassing.
As long as the car feels fine, ride it out until it doesn't, or until the codes cause your SES light to go on. At that point, the ECU will probably store the appropriate code, and you can replace the coil pack that's failing because you'll know which one it is. A very expensive alternative is to just replace them all proactively. At $80 - $120 each, that can hurt.
When a coil pack fails, you'll know it. The car will run horribly rough, can barely accelerate, can't drive up an incline, all kinds of nasty. It's pretty embarrassing.
Last edited by Rochester; 10-12-2011 at 05:49 AM.
#14
Ya, it's a pretty useless code but it just turned off randomly, so I'm not worried right now.
My car is def running pig rich right now, so I've been doom some research on tuning. The tuning thread you referred me too is a lot to take in but I'm learning. So I went to see a buddy at a local performance shop where they do everything from wiper blades, to building one of the fastest new body challengers in the world. He is suggesting that they dyno tune my car by installing a unichip, which from what Iv read is just a universal chip that alters the signal your ecu sends out. He is saying for the chip, installed and dyno tuned it would be around $800, which isnt cheap. It is also a one time tune, so to change anything down the road I'm looking at more dyno tuning fee's, which I know aren't cheap. I'm not sure on the actual difficulty of installing this unichip, but I would consider installing it myself to bring down the cost.
Now my decision come down to either going with that setup, or possibly going down the street tunable route which I'm still very uneducated on.
My car is def running pig rich right now, so I've been doom some research on tuning. The tuning thread you referred me too is a lot to take in but I'm learning. So I went to see a buddy at a local performance shop where they do everything from wiper blades, to building one of the fastest new body challengers in the world. He is suggesting that they dyno tune my car by installing a unichip, which from what Iv read is just a universal chip that alters the signal your ecu sends out. He is saying for the chip, installed and dyno tuned it would be around $800, which isnt cheap. It is also a one time tune, so to change anything down the road I'm looking at more dyno tuning fee's, which I know aren't cheap. I'm not sure on the actual difficulty of installing this unichip, but I would consider installing it myself to bring down the cost.
Now my decision come down to either going with that setup, or possibly going down the street tunable route which I'm still very uneducated on.
#16
#17
It only flashed for a bit then just stayed on, it ran good other than a bit of a stumble at idle. I hate that the search function is down, but I dont have time check my car till tomorrow. Is there a good way to check the coil packs?
#18
It only flashed for a bit then just stayed on, it ran good other than a bit of a stumble at idle. I hate that the search function is down, but I dont have time check my car till tomorrow. Is there a good way to check the coil packs? Sorry to hear about your max by the way
#20
Update: I friggin love the results, even tho I'm getting the p0300 now it had popped up before, I'm not blaming this install for it. I ended up just buying a k&n filter rigged up a nice little short ram, I unbolted the stock assembly from the maf housing and bolted the new housing I have from the new maf I bought recently, then popped the filter right on that. It fits so perfectly it was surprising, and it wa the cherry on the cake, it sounds and feels great. Iv gotten used to the exhaust sound (as you said), and I think it may be quieting down a little. Overall I am very pleased with these mods.
I also talked to a buddy who works at a local performance shop who does dyno tuning, and was quite adamant about installing a "unichip" and doing a dyno tune for about $800. I don't think I'm gonna do it this year, as I plan to park the beast for winter soon anyway, but it def needs a tune it is running prett rich. Ahh next year... I'm friggin addicted to this car and this website haha
I also talked to a buddy who works at a local performance shop who does dyno tuning, and was quite adamant about installing a "unichip" and doing a dyno tune for about $800. I don't think I'm gonna do it this year, as I plan to park the beast for winter soon anyway, but it def needs a tune it is running prett rich. Ahh next year... I'm friggin addicted to this car and this website haha
#21
Glad it's working out. I don't know if you kept track of your fuel economy before installing the y-pipe, but if you did, have you noticed any change in mpg after you installed the Cattman?
I am totally confused as there seem to be conflicting opinions about this:
A. Some say the mpg benefits are at high RPM's. So, you get better mileage with cat y-pipe when you're haulin ***, as compared to with stock which burns more fuel when driving fast.
B. Others claim to see mpg benefits at low rpm. And just more power at high rpm.
I'd love to hear your opinion on this. If you've learned anything along these lines from having installed the y-pipe and having tracked fuel consumption before and after, whether it's A or B, or something else, it would be cool if you'd share it.
Thanks
I am totally confused as there seem to be conflicting opinions about this:
A. Some say the mpg benefits are at high RPM's. So, you get better mileage with cat y-pipe when you're haulin ***, as compared to with stock which burns more fuel when driving fast.
B. Others claim to see mpg benefits at low rpm. And just more power at high rpm.
I'd love to hear your opinion on this. If you've learned anything along these lines from having installed the y-pipe and having tracked fuel consumption before and after, whether it's A or B, or something else, it would be cool if you'd share it.
Thanks
Last edited by atriuum; 10-17-2011 at 08:16 AM.
#22
I have never really kept track of mileage, at $1.35-.45/L I would almost rather not know how much I'm using, basically I just love driving my car so I never really cared. Plus it would be kinda hard to say what the y did, as I gutted cats and did an SRI pretty much at the same time. It seems to be running rich from that combo, I had also been battling a p0300 since the install which randomly turned off two nights ago an has stayed off(fingers crossed). Due to all of those factors I haven't payed any attention to mpg's. I'm gonna fill up tonite and can let you know how I do for this tank, hopefully that useless f*ckin code doesn't come back.
#25
#26
#27
#28
No, I bought my SRI mid-pipe from Frankencar five years ago. But it's the same as Berk, and pretty much the same as knight_yyz's... except mine is powdercoated in metalic silver to match the car. (And then there's the SS t-bolts, and other shiny hardware.)
IDK about temps. When I had the spacers installed, I could have sworn the engine was getting up to temp much quicker, but that was a while ago. Hard to say today.
IDK about temps. When I had the spacers installed, I could have sworn the engine was getting up to temp much quicker, but that was a while ago. Hard to say today.
Now when we gut the pre-cats or install headers do we use one dual sim o2s?
#30
[quote=02AutoMax;8269751]I also noticed that my car after the spacers installed warms up instantly now, to bad the heater-core also doesn't heat up as quick .
This doesn't sound normal. If the coolant temp warms up, so should the heater core.
This doesn't sound normal. If the coolant temp warms up, so should the heater core.
#31
[quote=spock;8270208]You might have some air trapped in the heater lines that needs to get burped out.
#32
Gutted my pre-cats last week due to the infamous rattle and I love it so far, the car is finally back at 100% and my MPG increased. I also have a Warpspeed SS y-pipe + test pipe + 2.5 inch piping to a megan M-DT muffler and I LOVE the sound.
Planning on getting it on the dyno in the next 1-2 weeks
Oh and the best part..........NO SES LIGHT! NO SIMS OR O2 SPACERS! WTF!? #WINNING
Planning on getting it on the dyno in the next 1-2 weeks
Oh and the best part..........NO SES LIGHT! NO SIMS OR O2 SPACERS! WTF!? #WINNING
#35
Gutted my pre-cats last week due to the infamous rattle and I love it so far, the car is finally back at 100% and my MPG increased. I also have a Warpspeed SS y-pipe + test pipe + 2.5 inch piping to a megan M-DT muffler and I LOVE the sound.
Planning on getting it on the dyno in the next 1-2 weeks
Oh and the best part..........NO SES LIGHT! NO SIMS OR O2 SPACERS! WTF!? #WINNING
Planning on getting it on the dyno in the next 1-2 weeks
Oh and the best part..........NO SES LIGHT! NO SIMS OR O2 SPACERS! WTF!? #WINNING
#36
Not to drop a turd on your corn flakes, but how is that possible? If I understand your post correctly, you have no precats, no O2 sims, no O2 spacers, no main cat and no ses light? How many miles on this mod? Does the ses light come on when you turn the ignition on but do not start the car?
Yes that is correct sir, currently at 160 miles with gutted pre-cats, and no the bulb did not burn out LMFAO
#37
#39
Went out and made a quick vid just for spock ROFL
http://s562.photobucket.com/albums/ss67/russian7/?action=view¤t=a8aaa047.mp4
http://s562.photobucket.com/albums/ss67/russian7/?action=view¤t=f181eb47.mp4
http://s562.photobucket.com/albums/ss67/russian7/?action=view¤t=a8aaa047.mp4
http://s562.photobucket.com/albums/ss67/russian7/?action=view¤t=f181eb47.mp4
Last edited by BrooklynRussian; 11-15-2011 at 06:48 PM.