Sporatic clutch problem
#1
Sporatic clutch problem
I have a 2k3 6MT that just had a 2006 motor swapped in. When the shop sis the swap, they dropped the whole subframe. Doing this, they did not disconnect any brake lines or cutch lines, they just simply removed the slave cylinder. After getting it back, the cluct sometimes has to be held at the floor in order to it to fully disengage, or re-engage. When it does this, the pedal is not any lower to the ground before i push it in, but when i do, the top part of the travel seems very light, then when it stats actually disengaging the clutch it feels normal other than it being at the ground. I know this sounds like a master/slave cylinder problem, but i checked the fluid res, and it was full. I fully bled the system and still have the problem. Also, something that is strange is that the clutch never has the problem the first time i push it in in the morning. One more possible symptom is that there is a good ammount of "sediment" in the bottom of the reservoir. I know it is new/newer, because back in december I bled the clutch and at that time also noticed sediment(but not near as much) and flushed the whole system out. There is no rhyme or reason to when it will not work properly as far as i can tell. I just dont know how it is regaining pressure if there is a leak when im not pushing the pedal at all.
Any ideas?
Any ideas?
#2
I have a 2k3 6MT that just had a 2006 motor swapped in. When the shop sis the swap, they dropped the whole subframe. Doing this, they did not disconnect any brake lines or cutch lines, they just simply removed the slave cylinder. After getting it back, the cluct sometimes has to be held at the floor in order to it to fully disengage, or re-engage. When it does this, the pedal is not any lower to the ground before i push it in, but when i do, the top part of the travel seems very light, then when it stats actually disengaging the clutch it feels normal other than it being at the ground. I know this sounds like a master/slave cylinder problem, but i checked the fluid res, and it was full. I fully bled the system and still have the problem. Also, something that is strange is that the clutch never has the problem the first time i push it in in the morning. One more possible symptom is that there is a good ammount of "sediment" in the bottom of the reservoir. I know it is new/newer, because back in december I bled the clutch and at that time also noticed sediment(but not near as much) and flushed the whole system out. There is no rhyme or reason to when it will not work properly as far as i can tell. I just dont know how it is regaining pressure if there is a leak when im not pushing the pedal at all.
Any ideas?
Any ideas?
Clutch slave cylinder might be bad, check the clutch lines to make sure they're not damaged.
Also, use paragraphs, the wall of text hurts.
#4
If you see some sediment in the res than I bet that is some rubber pieces from the slave. When you push the clutch in some fuild is getting past the piston. This happened to me in my Zenki once. I upgraded to a 300ZXTT slave. I would start there.
#5
+1 sediment is a sign of a worn slave cylinder. Since the slave was also disconnected from the pedal it is also possible it wasn't adjusted properly, behind the pedal there is adjustment which could be the reason you have to push it down all the way. Judging by the sediment I would say it's the slave cylinder going bad though.
#6
Thanks for the input guys. Sorry for no paragraphs, i meant to go back and split it up when i finished typing it.
so even thought i dont have any fluid arround the slave cylinder it could still be bad? The fluid is going past the piston when i push it in, and then back on the correct side of the piston?
I think I may try to rebuild it with OEM parts, as its WAAAAAAY cheaper, and I have rebuilt some Master cylinders before on our racecar.
so even thought i dont have any fluid arround the slave cylinder it could still be bad? The fluid is going past the piston when i push it in, and then back on the correct side of the piston?
I think I may try to rebuild it with OEM parts, as its WAAAAAAY cheaper, and I have rebuilt some Master cylinders before on our racecar.
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