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5th Generation Maxima (2000-2003) Learn more about the 5th Generation Maxima, including the VQ30DE-K and VQ35DE engines.

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Old 06-26-2011, 06:00 AM   #1
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Crank/No Start - 2001 Maxima

I got my car back from the shop and it drove fine, however just outside of my house, the car just died. The engine didn't shut off right away, it was acting like I was out of gas. Pushed the clutch in and the engine died, and would not restart. No spark.

Pulled the codes and got a CPS REF and Swirl Valve Check (P1165). Replaced CPS REF, car fired up. I also replaced the spark plugs and a coilpack that failed on me shortly after.

Started the car and attempted to drive it down the block, where I ran into the same issue I had initially. Wideband reads all the way lean and I'll press the throttle pedal and nothing will happen it just coasted to a dead stop. No restart.

I tested the resistance of the CAS as well, and it came out out of spec. I replaced that with no luck, and a P0340 popped up.

I was sitting at a 1/4 tank the whole time.

This car has JWT cams, bolt ons and e-Ultimate.

I understand the necessity for fuel, air and spark, and I'm looking for some ideas on where my next step should be.
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Old 06-26-2011, 06:29 AM   #2
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erratic fuel pressure regulator, would be what i point the finger at.
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Old 06-26-2011, 06:38 AM   #3
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erratic fuel pressure regulator, would be what i point the finger at.
Where is the FPR? And is there a way I can test it?
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Old 06-26-2011, 07:29 AM   #4
My axles cry for mercy...

 
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The FPR is whats on the end of your fuel rail. Do you still have your stock one?

Also, did you smell fuel after you drove it?
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Old 06-26-2011, 07:29 AM   #5
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No fuel smell after I drove it.
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Old 06-26-2011, 08:26 AM   #6
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Which grade of fuel do you use? This may sound strange but I had a similar issue not too long ago and the gauge read 1/4 tank. After putting in a little premium fuel in it it started right up.
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Old 06-26-2011, 08:31 AM   #7
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I use premium all the time. That would be the simplest fix and won't hurt to try.
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Old 06-26-2011, 09:13 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by essential1 View Post
The FPR is whats on the end of your fuel rail. Do you still have your stock one?
One on each fuel rail. Here's a pic of mine (from that "what is this thing?" thread). Lovely surface corrosion.

Click the image to open in full size.
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Old 06-26-2011, 09:24 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by essential1 View Post
The FPR is whats on the end of your fuel rail. Do you still have your stock one?
Yup stock FPR.
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Old 06-26-2011, 09:31 AM   #10
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if your getting po340 that's CAM position sensor.


Why was the car in the shop?



If the ECU is not getting a cam signal input it will not run. This is what ive been going through with my swap.



You should check and see if your even getting spark, its pretty easy to check
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Old 06-26-2011, 09:36 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SurraTT View Post
if your getting po340 that's CAM position sensor.


Why was the car in the shop?



If the ECU is not getting a cam signal input it will not run. This is what ive been going through with my swap.



You should check and see if your even getting spark, its pretty easy to check
Car was in the shop because I was getting cams installed.

I've gotten both CKPOS (REF) and CAS now even though I have a brand new CAS plugged in.

How should I check spark?
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Old 06-26-2011, 10:39 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MoncefA33 View Post
Car was in the shop because I was getting cams installed.

I've gotten both CKPOS (REF) and CAS now even though I have a brand new CAS plugged in.

How should I check spark?


oh ok hmmmm




Check spark by taking a coil pack out, and putting a sparkplug in the end, and setting it somewhere where it grounds out, then have someone crank motor over and see if its sparking.



To me seems like you crank, and cam sensors are messed up, either the wiring or the sensors. Im betting wiring, as the car did run for a little bit.

could even be a ground,


Get the multimeter out!
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Old 06-26-2011, 11:04 AM   #13
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oh ok hmmmm




Check spark by taking a coil pack out, and putting a sparkplug in the end, and setting it somewhere where it grounds out, then have someone crank motor over and see if its sparking.



To me seems like you crank, and cam sensors are messed up, either the wiring or the sensors. Im betting wiring, as the car did run for a little bit.

could even be a ground,


Get the multimeter out!
Well my CPS REF sensor is new and the car is not throwing a code for either POS or REF.

Gonna see about the grounds...

Any other ideas?
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Old 06-26-2011, 11:24 AM   #14
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So what codes are you currently getting?
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Old 06-26-2011, 11:36 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SurraTT View Post
So what codes are you currently getting?
P1165. - Swirl valve control solenoid.
P0340 - CAS - even though I replaced it
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Old 06-26-2011, 12:53 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MoncefA33 View Post
P1165. - Swirl valve control solenoid.
P0340 - CAS - even though I replaced it


DO 3.0s have only 1 cam sensor? from what i can tell they only have 1, so if that one is not working = motor wont run



If the sensor is new, it could be the wiring.



Im not even sure what a 3.0 cam sensor is even reading? timing chain?


From the FSM

Malfunction is detected when
(Malfunction A) the cylinder No. signal is not sent to ECM for the
first few seconds during engine cranking,

(Malfunction B) the cylinder No. signal is not sent to ECM during
engine running,

(Malfunction C) the cylinder No. signal is not in the normal pattern
during engine running.



IT could be the ecu not getting a signal, or something is off far as timing, not sure how it would of ran fine until it stopped.


How long was the car running after cam install till this happened?


Was it running ok or very rough?
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Old 06-26-2011, 12:57 PM   #17
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DEK has one cam sensor. As far as the wiring is concerned I haven't checked the grounds but I will check them.

Engine was running smooth with the new coilpack, no weird noises, the cam timing is correct.
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Old 06-26-2011, 04:53 PM   #18
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Added fuel, Reset ECU.
Cranked car, pulled codes.
Got P1320, that's my only code now.

Seems like the CPS REF could be related to this according to the FSM.
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Last edited by MoncefA33; 06-26-2011 at 05:23 PM..
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Old 06-26-2011, 07:26 PM   #19
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I would definatly check the wiring on all three sensors first but it sounds to me like it could be a timing issue.
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Old 06-26-2011, 07:37 PM   #20
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I would definatly check the wiring on all three sensors first but it sounds to me like it could be a timing issue.
Cam timing?
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Old 06-27-2011, 07:44 AM   #21
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Seems weird that the timing would be off as it was running and running fine?


P1320 basically says no spark. so no need to check haaha



Possible Cause

Harness or connectors (The ignition primary circuit is open or
shorted.)

Power transistor unit built into ignition coil

Condenser

Crankshaft position sensor (REF)

Crankshaft position sensor (REF) circuit



Seems like Crank REF signal is not there or not right thus its not firing the coils.
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Old 06-27-2011, 07:46 AM   #22
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Yup that's consistent with what the FSM said.

Now, when the car was running after I replaced the CPS REF, it was only on 5 cylinders, one of the coilpacks grenaded. I replaced the coilpack with a spare I had laying around and my starting issues came back.

I'm gonna take a step back, unplug that coilpack I had originally replaced first, crank the car, and if that doesn't work I will see what I can find where the spark is being shut off at.
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Old 06-27-2011, 07:48 AM   #23
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hmmm ok, so it MIGHT be a coil pack/ condenser issue / power transistor haha
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Old 06-27-2011, 07:51 AM   #24
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Quote:
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Seems weird that the timing would be off as it was running and running fine?.
THIS. My buddy who did it said he checked the timing 3 or 4 times, rotated the engine by hand and had said if the timing was off at all it would have bent all the valves. AND, it would have made a nasty noises during cranking.
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Old 06-27-2011, 09:33 AM   #25
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THIS. My buddy who did it said he checked the timing 3 or 4 times, rotated the engine by hand and had said if the timing was off at all it would have bent all the valves. AND, it would have made a nasty noises during cranking.

Yeah just sucks something happened w/e it is your car is not running!


goodluck man! i know how frustrating it can be, i haven't driven my car in almost a year!
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Old 06-27-2011, 04:54 PM   #26
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Old 06-27-2011, 05:24 PM   #27
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I am having this issue. I mean, considering my mechanic told me "this engines f*cked" the car doesnt start anymore after getting a clicking messed up sound from around the timing chain particularly during lower idles. I was getting a clicking sound for a while and really low idle when at lower speeds or stopped and eventually just wouldnt start one day. Cranked but didnt fire up. He said the fuel injectors were getting cut off. because of the timing jumping, etc. So I assume that has to do with the timing chain. I KNOW he doesnt want to do the job. Considering he told me I shouldnt bother putting a new engine in my max. (I have a 95) and he's right. The body doesn't even warrant it. My issue is trying to get reasonable insurance with a new vehicle though. Due to me being afraid they'll check my driving abstract which they havent done in a while.

Is the engine still fixable with a new timing chain kit even after its gotten to the point of not starting up anymore? I found some on Ebay for around 200. So I'm curious. But I assume my best bet is just to pick up another max for like under 1000. And if my insurance doesnt give me a reasonable quote for changing cars over. Then maybe do a swap from it.

Ugh, do I ever hate insurance companies ;P
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Old 06-27-2011, 07:16 PM   #28
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Update.
Cranked car, no start, tested condenser and grounds, everything looks fine.
When I crank, I smell fuel from the front of the car, not at the exhaust. FPR?

ALSO: When I crank, it cranks consistently but it has a occasional stumble...WTF could this be?

Help appreciated.
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Last edited by MoncefA33; 06-27-2011 at 07:20 PM..
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Old 06-27-2011, 08:14 PM   #29
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Now I've been told that you can unplug the CPS and try cranking the car, and if it starts with the CPS unplugged, the timing is probably off. Does this include the CPS REF and POS? Or just one of the two?
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Old 06-28-2011, 05:08 AM   #30
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Did you check the grounds/wiring?
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Old 06-28-2011, 07:15 AM   #31
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Originally Posted by MoncefA33 View Post
Update.
Cranked car, no start, tested condenser and grounds, everything looks fine.
When I crank, I smell fuel from the front of the car, not at the exhaust. FPR?

ALSO: When I crank, it cranks consistently but it has a occasional stumble...WTF could this be?

Help appreciated.
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Did you check the grounds/wiring?
Yes.
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Old 06-28-2011, 09:43 AM   #32
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so are you getting spark??
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Old 06-28-2011, 11:07 AM   #33
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Car starts, looks like the CPS POS sensor was loose and wasn't letting it fire.

Next question. Drove the car and it is slowwwwww BUT I'm throwing a P0325 (Knock Sensor).

How do I bypass the KS? Can I use a 470k ohm resistor and put it in line with the KS wire on the engine harness? Or do I have to go to the KS connector under the LIM?
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Old 06-28-2011, 12:19 PM   #34
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Next question. Drove the car and it is slowwwwww
So you're back to normal then?
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Old 06-28-2011, 12:34 PM   #35
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Sorry, 'cef. I see that you're down, so the natural thing to do was kick you. I mean... the door was wide open, man!

Hope you get it figured out.
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Old 06-28-2011, 12:43 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MoncefA33 View Post
Car starts, looks like the CPS POS sensor was loose and wasn't letting it fire.

Next question. Drove the car and it is slowwwwww BUT I'm throwing a P0325 (Knock Sensor).

How do I bypass the KS? Can I use a 470k ohm resistor and put it in line with the KS wire on the engine harness? Or do I have to go to the KS connector under the LIM?
if you bypass the knock and its still slow my bet is the timing chain wasnt lined up with the sprockets. when i put cams in my ser we missed a tooth, car was slow and something seemed off. when we pulled the VC and checked it, sure enough we miss a tooth, fixed it and car ran great. i really hope this isnt the problem cause putting cams in a max is a b1tch..
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Old 06-28-2011, 01:32 PM   #37
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Question... when you drive the car, do you hear something that sounds like little kids throwing rocks at your car? AKA pinging?
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Old 06-28-2011, 02:05 PM   #38
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Quote:
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Sorry, 'cef. I see that you're down, so the natural thing to do was kick you. I mean... the door was wide open, man!

Hope you get it figured out.
Armchair mechanics don't have to deal with physical reality of mechanical issues.

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Originally Posted by HotshotVQ35 View Post
if you bypass the knock and its still slow my bet is the timing chain wasnt lined up with the sprockets. when i put cams in my ser we missed a tooth, car was slow and something seemed off. when we pulled the VC and checked it, sure enough we miss a tooth, fixed it and car ran great. i really hope this isnt the problem cause putting cams in a max is a b1tch..
Keep reading...

Quote:
Originally Posted by essential1 View Post
Question... when you drive the car, do you hear something that sounds like little kids throwing rocks at your car? AKA pinging?
I don't hear any pinging when I'm driving or at idle. Here's an update.

I'm getting a P1320 code and it seems like two cylinders on the front bank are NOT getting spark. I swapped coilpacks around with known working ones and the same issue resides. So my car is running off of 4 cylinders (Honda mode).

Any ideas on where I can start the diagnostic procedure for tracking down the misfire? Because the P0325 is relatively easy to fix, but I'd like to get a head start on this miss because it is apparently not the coils.
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Old 06-28-2011, 06:27 PM   #39
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Misfire GONE.

Next step is bypassing the KS. Can I get yall input?

This goes as follows...
Pull UIM/LIM.
Put 470k OHM resistor into subharness.
Does anybody have pictures of how this bypass goes?
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Old 06-28-2011, 06:42 PM   #40
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what was causing the misfire?? just bad coils?
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Old 06-28-2011, 06:42 PM
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