My oil light comes on then goes off **STEP INSIDE AND HELP PLEASE**
04-29-2011, 04:25 AM
#1
My oil light comes on then goes off **STEP INSIDE AND HELP PLEASE**
Since the threads i've posted in have yielded no results and my only google and org searchs have either come to a dead end or not a complete diagnosis, i'm starting this thread.
So after leaving the track to test out my car and see what kind of numbers my car was doing as it sat, i went home. Everything is still going absolutely fine no issues no nothing. I go to my mothers house that evening to move furniture around...my car is parked for maybe an hour or more ---> problem occurs:
So I go back to the car to start it up, low and behold, my oil light is on and there is a rattle/clacking noise to be heard *oh great i'm low on oil* so i figure ill baby it until i get to walmart, no more than a mile away from my moms house, and get a quart of oil. before i even get half a mile to walmart, the oil light goes off and immediately the rattle/clacking noise does as well. Boggles my mind, so i figured ill just go home and get to bed because by this time its 12:00am and i have to get up at 5am. So i get up to go to work, i check the oil, although its low its not out of the norm for it to be that low. So i start the car up w/ the same symptoms as the previous night, and it goes away just like it did before, noise and light simultaneously.
This morning going to work, it stayed on the longest, about a mile, then the light goes off and so does the noise.
My thoughts are that while on the track, of course the oil was 'sloshing' around in teh engine and not being where it needed to be, possible killing the oil pump, as some of my google search has shown, yes it could be the oil pump. Then i'm reading some of these threads (which i've gotten no response from) and the synopsis is the person has a spun bearing/bent rod/etc etc...To me it doesnt make any sense for my particular situation, because if those things were wrong, then it would be a permanent knock/clack/noise in my engine bay, but when the light goes off, so does my noise.
With all that said (oil light and noise stop/go off after riding for a little while) can you say that my issue IS the oil pump? or is it something else?
Also if it is the oil pump, is the 3.5 compatible/interchangeable with the DE-k? and if it is, is it an upgrade?
So after leaving the track to test out my car and see what kind of numbers my car was doing as it sat, i went home. Everything is still going absolutely fine no issues no nothing. I go to my mothers house that evening to move furniture around...my car is parked for maybe an hour or more ---> problem occurs:
So I go back to the car to start it up, low and behold, my oil light is on and there is a rattle/clacking noise to be heard *oh great i'm low on oil* so i figure ill baby it until i get to walmart, no more than a mile away from my moms house, and get a quart of oil. before i even get half a mile to walmart, the oil light goes off and immediately the rattle/clacking noise does as well. Boggles my mind, so i figured ill just go home and get to bed because by this time its 12:00am and i have to get up at 5am. So i get up to go to work, i check the oil, although its low its not out of the norm for it to be that low. So i start the car up w/ the same symptoms as the previous night, and it goes away just like it did before, noise and light simultaneously.
This morning going to work, it stayed on the longest, about a mile, then the light goes off and so does the noise.
My thoughts are that while on the track, of course the oil was 'sloshing' around in teh engine and not being where it needed to be, possible killing the oil pump, as some of my google search has shown, yes it could be the oil pump. Then i'm reading some of these threads (which i've gotten no response from) and the synopsis is the person has a spun bearing/bent rod/etc etc...To me it doesnt make any sense for my particular situation, because if those things were wrong, then it would be a permanent knock/clack/noise in my engine bay, but when the light goes off, so does my noise.
With all that said (oil light and noise stop/go off after riding for a little while) can you say that my issue IS the oil pump? or is it something else?
Also if it is the oil pump, is the 3.5 compatible/interchangeable with the DE-k? and if it is, is it an upgrade?
04-29-2011, 04:26 AM
#2
These are the threads that i found:
http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...e-tapping.html
http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...-plz-help.html
http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...e-tapping.html
http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...-plz-help.html
04-29-2011, 04:31 AM
#4
while i read those threads, the switch is only there to show that teh oil pressure is low. that being said because if its unplugged it will never show that oil light. i'm thinking the oil pump too, my guess is either once the car gets warmed up, or the oil pump gets oil around it..it loosens it up and it starts working again.
do you know the procedure/how to in replacing the oil pump? is it located around the timing components?
do you know the procedure/how to in replacing the oil pump? is it located around the timing components?
04-29-2011, 05:07 AM
#7
Wish I could answer that question but I do not know what works between the de-k and the vq35 motors. Maybe somebody else will chime in to answer that question.
BTW that viscosity oil do you run? Just wondering because it might be worth a shot to try something thicker to see what happens to the noise.
BTW that viscosity oil do you run? Just wondering because it might be worth a shot to try something thicker to see what happens to the noise.
04-29-2011, 05:34 AM
#9
04-29-2011, 07:28 AM
#10
Member
Join Date: Sep 2003
Posts: 219
Phatboislim DO NOT DRIVE YOUR CAR!!!
The OP you made in this thread is exactly the information we needed. Testing with a gauge would only confirm. The reason I was asking you to test is when there is a short 5 seconds or so it can be caused from three areas. (Two of which are super easy to address.) HOWEVER the issue you have described can only be explained by a bad pump. (I make 1 exception that is so far fetched your engine would be hosed anyway.)
If you want to verify this issue you can pull the valve covers off, apply oil, then start up the engine. If the noise is mitigated you have affirmed what we are assured is true.
The OP you made in this thread is exactly the information we needed. Testing with a gauge would only confirm. The reason I was asking you to test is when there is a short 5 seconds or so it can be caused from three areas. (Two of which are super easy to address.) HOWEVER the issue you have described can only be explained by a bad pump. (I make 1 exception that is so far fetched your engine would be hosed anyway.)
If you want to verify this issue you can pull the valve covers off, apply oil, then start up the engine. If the noise is mitigated you have affirmed what we are assured is true.
04-29-2011, 07:32 AM
#11
Member
Join Date: Sep 2003
Posts: 219
For the good of the order:
JUST because you hear valve train noise does NOT mean your pump is bad. This is the stipulation I was TSing in phatboislim's other thread. (http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...-plz-help.html)
Also, if on start up your oil light is on and you hear clacking / metal-on-metal noise for more than 10 seconds, shut your engine off. It is common with synthetic oil, low oil, old oil, low viscosity oil, etc to hear some valve noise on start up (3seconds is 'normal'). That said I would seek to solve the issue as this is hard on an engine over time.
If you autocross your car make SURE that you have slightly overfilled your oil OR confirmed that you have sufficient baffles to retain oil supply to the pump. Starving your pump will burn it out quite quickly.
JUST because you hear valve train noise does NOT mean your pump is bad. This is the stipulation I was TSing in phatboislim's other thread. (http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...-plz-help.html)
Also, if on start up your oil light is on and you hear clacking / metal-on-metal noise for more than 10 seconds, shut your engine off. It is common with synthetic oil, low oil, old oil, low viscosity oil, etc to hear some valve noise on start up (3seconds is 'normal'). That said I would seek to solve the issue as this is hard on an engine over time.
If you autocross your car make SURE that you have slightly overfilled your oil OR confirmed that you have sufficient baffles to retain oil supply to the pump. Starving your pump will burn it out quite quickly.
04-29-2011, 07:35 AM
#12
well..i've driven it like this since wednesday night. the noise goes away. if the engine goes, it goes. it seems easier to swap the engine than to do the oil pump anyway lol. besides a fresh engine wouldnt hurt. but i will drive it home for work, but if the light/knock doesnt stop within the alloted time it does, i will pull over (although it'd probably be too late). i appreciate your input x1000 dude. i've already searched for engines and i have my friend pricing out an oil pump and oil switch for me right now. when i get back to home side, i will have my father in law take a listen and get his final synopsis on it....then ill just get ready to pay the piper 
04-29-2011, 07:39 AM
#13
For the good of the order:
JUST because you hear valve train noise does NOT mean your pump is bad. This is the stipulation I was TSing in phatboislim's other thread. (http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...-plz-help.html)
Also, if on start up your oil light is on and you hear clacking / metal-on-metal noise for more than 10 seconds, shut your engine off. It is common with synthetic oil, low oil, old oil, low viscosity oil, etc to hear some valve noise on start up (3seconds is 'normal'). That said I would seek to solve the issue as this is hard on an engine over time.
If you autocross your car make SURE that you have slightly overfilled your oil OR confirmed that you have sufficient baffles to retain oil supply to the pump. Starving your pump will burn it out quite quickly.
JUST because you hear valve train noise does NOT mean your pump is bad. This is the stipulation I was TSing in phatboislim's other thread. (http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...-plz-help.html)
Also, if on start up your oil light is on and you hear clacking / metal-on-metal noise for more than 10 seconds, shut your engine off. It is common with synthetic oil, low oil, old oil, low viscosity oil, etc to hear some valve noise on start up (3seconds is 'normal'). That said I would seek to solve the issue as this is hard on an engine over time.
If you autocross your car make SURE that you have slightly overfilled your oil OR confirmed that you have sufficient baffles to retain oil supply to the pump. Starving your pump will burn it out quite quickly.
BTW i've NEVER had issues w/ val max life causing that sort of sound in either of my vehicles, so i'm not going to blame that on the oil. i never had that sound in my DE-k and neither did i have it in my 22r and it was going on 300k before i sold it..only noise i had on that truck was the timing chain tensioner was bad.
FTR: the other thread you were responding to me at wasnt my original thread, i pretty much bumped an old thread
one other question. where can i obtain a baffled oil pan so i wont have to worry about oil starvation/burnt oil pump again?
Last edited by phatboislim; 04-29-2011 at 07:46 AM.
04-29-2011, 08:09 AM
#14
I retract my statements in the other tread about the problem not being your pump. It was not clear in that thread how long the light was on.
I agree that having low oil and starving the pump could wear more metal from the pump. It sounds like when it is cold (cooler than operating temperature), and the parts have not yet expanded, the tolerances in the pump are too large and not enough pressure is being built up. Once the pump warms up and the parts expand, you get just enough pressure to turn off the light. Testing with a real gauge is a great idea. Just make sure to get an adapter for the 1/8 BPT thread in the oil pan.
I do think you should still do the leak down test to determine where the disappearing oil is leaking into the combustion chamber from. If it is the valve seals, it should be possible to change them without pulling the head.
Your oil pan should have a baffle in it already. I think the level of your oil had more to do with your problem than anything.
I agree that having low oil and starving the pump could wear more metal from the pump. It sounds like when it is cold (cooler than operating temperature), and the parts have not yet expanded, the tolerances in the pump are too large and not enough pressure is being built up. Once the pump warms up and the parts expand, you get just enough pressure to turn off the light. Testing with a real gauge is a great idea. Just make sure to get an adapter for the 1/8 BPT thread in the oil pan.
I do think you should still do the leak down test to determine where the disappearing oil is leaking into the combustion chamber from. If it is the valve seals, it should be possible to change them without pulling the head.
Your oil pan should have a baffle in it already. I think the level of your oil had more to do with your problem than anything.
04-29-2011, 08:39 AM
#15
I topped off my oil before running, i guess that by my 4th run i was teetering on the 'burning too much oil' especially when i missed 4th gear twice at the end of my runs. i have alot of things to check i guess...but to tell you the truth, i kinda dont want to have to go back into the top end of this car.
but your thoughts on the pump, is sorta my thoughts as well, i guess just a more detailed way of what i'm thinking of whats going on. ill let my mechanic/father in law do all of that. ive spent alot of time on my car last two weeks trying to save money by doing all that work i did to it. ill just let him do it and get it done quicker and more effectively than i can. i need my car back sooner than the whole wk that it was already down
but your thoughts on the pump, is sorta my thoughts as well, i guess just a more detailed way of what i'm thinking of whats going on. ill let my mechanic/father in law do all of that. ive spent alot of time on my car last two weeks trying to save money by doing all that work i did to it. ill just let him do it and get it done quicker and more effectively than i can. i need my car back sooner than the whole wk that it was already down
04-29-2011, 09:20 AM
#17
When you missed 4th, what did you shift into? 6th? I don't really get how you could burn more than two quarts of oil after 5 1/4mi runs. My oil-burning VQ35 didn't even burn a quarter of a quart after 3 consecutive 1/4 miles. When you said "track," I was picturing you turning through a cone with one wheel off the ground, engine leaning hard and sucking oil away from key areas, not sloshing backwards on acceleration.
Regardless, congratulations on a respectable time from your session!
Regardless, congratulations on a respectable time from your session!
04-29-2011, 09:54 AM
#18
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Vancouver, BC
Posts: 933
For Pete's sake!......you had the low oil pressure light on/flickering (and associated ugly noises on top of that).......and you drove the car to Walmat?? The discussion on the oil pump is a moot point. The engine is done......oil pressure and a positive supply of oil during engine operation is rather basic to it's "survival".
04-29-2011, 09:59 AM
#19
When you missed 4th, what did you shift into? 6th? I don't really get how you could burn more than two quarts of oil after 5 1/4mi runs. My oil-burning VQ35 didn't even burn a quarter of a quart after 3 consecutive 1/4 miles. When you said "track," I was picturing you turning through a cone with one wheel off the ground, engine leaning hard and sucking oil away from key areas, not sloshing backwards on acceleration.
Regardless, congratulations on a respectable time from your session!
Regardless, congratulations on a respectable time from your session!
naw i tried again and went into 4th on the 2nd attempt. but it burnt i guess 1/2 qt, i just put more in there when i got to get a quart of oil (maybe 3/4 or just a tad less) to give it 'extra', but not too much. but yea...i dont get oil starvation of that extreme...but motion IS motion. so i mean anything is possible.
For Pete's sake!......you had the low oil pressure light on/flickering (and associated ugly noises on top of that).......and you drove the car to Walmat?? The discussion on the oil pump is a moot point. The engine is done......oil pressure and a positive supply of oil during engine operation is rather basic to it's "survival".
04-29-2011, 10:10 AM
#21
^sorta reassuring. but i'm dropping it off tonight or at least parking it home and getting my moms car or brothers car. if i have to get an engine ima cop an I30 since supposedly thats whats supposedly in the AE max
04-29-2011, 04:24 PM
#23
Ugggggh. I seriously, honestly, can't keep you and ghustle separated in my mind! So GHustle has the 6-speed '00 GLE and you just have a normal 5th gen with a normal DE-K and normal 5 speed?
*muses* You really think this was caused by being a little low at the 'strip? You sure it isn't coincidence? If only Sparks had posted on here in the past couple of weeks, he'd probably be able to offer some greater insight.
*muses* You really think this was caused by being a little low at the 'strip? You sure it isn't coincidence? If only Sparks had posted on here in the past couple of weeks, he'd probably be able to offer some greater insight.
04-30-2011, 07:24 AM
#24
Ugggggh. I seriously, honestly, can't keep you and ghustle separated in my mind! So GHustle has the 6-speed '00 GLE and you just have a normal 5th gen with a normal DE-K and normal 5 speed?
*muses* You really think this was caused by being a little low at the 'strip? You sure it isn't coincidence? If only Sparks had posted on here in the past couple of weeks, he'd probably be able to offer some greater insight.
*muses* You really think this was caused by being a little low at the 'strip? You sure it isn't coincidence? If only Sparks had posted on here in the past couple of weeks, he'd probably be able to offer some greater insight.
but i really dont know what caused teh frying of my oil pump, i mean ive had noise, but my mechanic and i assumed it was the air compressor as at idle w/ the a/c off, it made noise and w/ the a/c on it made noise, but both times, since the compressor 'pulley' is 'run' by its belt at all times and we saw it moving, we assumed thats what it was/is (which doesnt negate it NOT being needing to be swapped out) but only thing that i can figure is that oil was moving around and maybe on those missed gears while iwas flat shifting(shifting at full throttle) it burned oil and had enough low oil to where it starved the oil pump, causing what problem i'm having right now. THAT MY HYPOTHESIS. i cant say thats what caused it
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