Affordable NON-Warping Rotors
04-26-2011, 08:37 PM
#1
Affordable NON-Warping Rotors
Hey guys,
So ive been through OEM and even Brembo blanks and ive managed to warp them both. For those of you that have experienced this and have found a rotor that doesnt warp, please let me know! Im looking to spend under $140 for the front pair. Ive read some good things about R1 Concept rotors. Any one try these? Also what about those Raybestos Advanced Technology rotors? Please give me your input! Im fed up with my rotors warping in a year!
So ive been through OEM and even Brembo blanks and ive managed to warp them both. For those of you that have experienced this and have found a rotor that doesnt warp, please let me know! Im looking to spend under $140 for the front pair. Ive read some good things about R1 Concept rotors. Any one try these? Also what about those Raybestos Advanced Technology rotors? Please give me your input! Im fed up with my rotors warping in a year!
04-26-2011, 08:40 PM
#2
RTP. I had my last set of RTP slotted rotors for close to 60k and definitely got my money's worth out of them. Look for the threads in the GB section. Jason is a stand up guy to deal with.
04-26-2011, 08:52 PM
#3
Autozone rotors are cheap as hell and dont warp. Even if they do they have lifetime warranty so just swap them out every year, that's what I do. I never have to pay for brakes and they're always new lol.
04-26-2011, 09:21 PM
#6
Stock rotors suck on 5th gens. You gotta get bigger ones.
You should just get the 300zx BBK and be done with it
The R1 Concept's seem decent. My buddy bought them for his Z (maybe a couple months ago) and hasn't killed them yet. Braking from well over 100 mph hasn't warped them so far lol. We're hard on brakes
I bought some 6th gen EBC slotted for my BBK.
I remember stock rotors....I slowed from 120 to 0 just once and they were toast. Never again.
You should just get the 300zx BBK and be done with it
The R1 Concept's seem decent. My buddy bought them for his Z (maybe a couple months ago) and hasn't killed them yet. Braking from well over 100 mph hasn't warped them so far lol. We're hard on brakes
I bought some 6th gen EBC slotted for my BBK.I remember stock rotors....I slowed from 120 to 0 just once and they were toast. Never again.
Last edited by Child_uv_KoRn; 04-26-2011 at 09:26 PM.
04-26-2011, 09:29 PM
#8
04-26-2011, 09:33 PM
#9
04-26-2011, 09:45 PM
#10
04-27-2011, 05:11 AM
#12
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2009
Posts: 2,132
Perhaps it's not the brakes...
What kind of braking are you doing that you're going through these rotors so fast? If you're driving like you're on a racetrack, remember track cars get overhauled after every race. Don't drive you're car like you've got a pit crew waiting for you on the other side of turn 4!
Something else that's probably no good, overheating brakes in the rain or cold weather. The extreme changes in temp will cause damage to them too.
What kind of braking are you doing that you're going through these rotors so fast? If you're driving like you're on a racetrack, remember track cars get overhauled after every race. Don't drive you're car like you've got a pit crew waiting for you on the other side of turn 4!
Something else that's probably no good, overheating brakes in the rain or cold weather. The extreme changes in temp will cause damage to them too.
04-27-2011, 06:58 AM
#17
Junior Member
Join Date: Apr 2011
Posts: 42
jesus are those highway miles? mine stock lasted to 76k mainly city.
for the autozone rotors. I've been on a budget. They were cheap but don't warp. I've had two sets on two 5th gens and have yet to warp them and I drive somewhere between normal driver and speed freak, depending on the mood.
04-27-2011, 07:10 AM
#20
Junior Member
Join Date: Apr 2011
Posts: 42
the funny part about this is the autozone, advance auto,napa, and 6+ other vendor rotors come from the same factory.
04-27-2011, 07:16 AM
#21
04-27-2011, 07:52 AM
#22
Why pay over and over for rotors that will warp?
Just buy one of these and be done with it:
That's what I did. It works great. People behind me don't like it, though.
Just buy one of these and be done with it:
That's what I did. It works great. People behind me don't like it, though.
Last edited by Mr. Brett; 04-27-2011 at 07:58 AM.
04-27-2011, 07:58 AM
#23
In all seriousness, though, a lot of warped brakes aren't actually warped rotors, but excess brake pad material transferring at one point or another on the rotor that causes an uneven buildup over time.
This is usually a result of improper brake bedding when new rotors/pads are installed. Or a result of excessive braking and then holding the pad to the hot rotor, such as while sitting at a stop light, and allowing extra material to transfer.
Properly bedding brakes will reduce the potential for warping immensely. StopTech has some useful information on their site...
Here...
and a How-To here...
This is usually a result of improper brake bedding when new rotors/pads are installed. Or a result of excessive braking and then holding the pad to the hot rotor, such as while sitting at a stop light, and allowing extra material to transfer.
Properly bedding brakes will reduce the potential for warping immensely. StopTech has some useful information on their site...
Here...
and a How-To here...
04-27-2011, 09:50 AM
#25
+1 I bought drilled rotors from him when I did my 6th gen brake upgrade. Even while using EBC reds and some occasional hard braking they still have yet to warp.
04-27-2011, 10:39 AM
#27
From StopTech's site:
"...a series of ten partial braking events, from 60mph down to 10mph...Each of the ten partial braking events should achieve moderate-to-high deceleration (about 80 to 90% of the deceleration required to lock up the brakes and/or to engage the ABS), and they should be made one after the other, without allowing the brakes to cool in between. "
Does anyone actually do this? I can't think of anywhere I can safely go from 60-10-60.
"...a series of ten partial braking events, from 60mph down to 10mph...Each of the ten partial braking events should achieve moderate-to-high deceleration (about 80 to 90% of the deceleration required to lock up the brakes and/or to engage the ABS), and they should be made one after the other, without allowing the brakes to cool in between. "
Does anyone actually do this? I can't think of anywhere I can safely go from 60-10-60.
04-27-2011, 10:49 AM
#28
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2009
Posts: 2,132
From StopTech's site:
"...a series of ten partial braking events, from 60mph down to 10mph...Each of the ten partial braking events should achieve moderate-to-high deceleration (about 80 to 90% of the deceleration required to lock up the brakes and/or to engage the ABS), and they should be made one after the other, without allowing the brakes to cool in between. "
Does anyone actually do this? I can't think of anywhere I can safely go from 60-10-60.
"...a series of ten partial braking events, from 60mph down to 10mph...Each of the ten partial braking events should achieve moderate-to-high deceleration (about 80 to 90% of the deceleration required to lock up the brakes and/or to engage the ABS), and they should be made one after the other, without allowing the brakes to cool in between. "
Does anyone actually do this? I can't think of anywhere I can safely go from 60-10-60.
I'll be honest, I didn't notice any difference with the brakes after having bedded them following an install. They stopped great before and after...
04-27-2011, 10:51 AM
#29
Junior Member
Join Date: Apr 2011
Posts: 42
From StopTech's site:
"...a series of ten partial braking events, from 60mph down to 10mph...Each of the ten partial braking events should achieve moderate-to-high deceleration (about 80 to 90% of the deceleration required to lock up the brakes and/or to engage the ABS), and they should be made one after the other, without allowing the brakes to cool in between. "
Does anyone actually do this? I can't think of anywhere I can safely go from 60-10-60.
"...a series of ten partial braking events, from 60mph down to 10mph...Each of the ten partial braking events should achieve moderate-to-high deceleration (about 80 to 90% of the deceleration required to lock up the brakes and/or to engage the ABS), and they should be made one after the other, without allowing the brakes to cool in between. "
Does anyone actually do this? I can't think of anywhere I can safely go from 60-10-60.
04-27-2011, 12:23 PM
#30
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 19
In all seriousness, though, a lot of warped brakes aren't actually warped rotors, but excess brake pad material transferring at one point or another on the rotor that causes an uneven buildup over time.
This is usually a result of improper brake bedding when new rotors/pads are installed. Or a result of excessive braking and then holding the pad to the hot rotor, such as while sitting at a stop light, and allowing extra material to transfer.
Properly bedding brakes will reduce the potential for warping immensely. StopTech has some useful information on their site...
Here...
and a How-To here...
This is usually a result of improper brake bedding when new rotors/pads are installed. Or a result of excessive braking and then holding the pad to the hot rotor, such as while sitting at a stop light, and allowing extra material to transfer.
Properly bedding brakes will reduce the potential for warping immensely. StopTech has some useful information on their site...
Here...
and a How-To here...
This is what i've heard also! Brake pads are set up to run up to a certain temperature. If you exceed that temp, the material will chemically bond to the rotor, which in turn acts like it is warped when passing through the pads again.
Point being...buy the best pads you can for the drivig you do...buy dailey driving pads if thats wht you do....buy autocross pads if thats what you do....
Last edited by timelessr1; 04-28-2011 at 06:28 PM.
04-27-2011, 02:02 PM
#31
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Mar 2011
Posts: 5
Try the cryo stop rotors. Tire rack has them. They have a nice black e coating on the hat and the cooling fins. They are the ONLY rotors I have had on my 5.5 gen and my 5th gen that have not warped immediately. They were very solid and have been awesome so far. Put them on my wifes CRV and they have been great on there too.
04-27-2011, 06:19 PM
#32
From StopTech's site:
"...a series of ten partial braking events, from 60mph down to 10mph...Each of the ten partial braking events should achieve moderate-to-high deceleration (about 80 to 90% of the deceleration required to lock up the brakes and/or to engage the ABS), and they should be made one after the other, without allowing the brakes to cool in between. "
Does anyone actually do this? I can't think of anywhere I can safely go from 60-10-60.
"...a series of ten partial braking events, from 60mph down to 10mph...Each of the ten partial braking events should achieve moderate-to-high deceleration (about 80 to 90% of the deceleration required to lock up the brakes and/or to engage the ABS), and they should be made one after the other, without allowing the brakes to cool in between. "
Does anyone actually do this? I can't think of anywhere I can safely go from 60-10-60.
04-27-2011, 06:45 PM
#33
From StopTech's site:
"...a series of ten partial braking events, from 60mph down to 10mph...Each of the ten partial braking events should achieve moderate-to-high deceleration (about 80 to 90% of the deceleration required to lock up the brakes and/or to engage the ABS), and they should be made one after the other, without allowing the brakes to cool in between. "
Does anyone actually do this? I can't think of anywhere I can safely go from 60-10-60.
"...a series of ten partial braking events, from 60mph down to 10mph...Each of the ten partial braking events should achieve moderate-to-high deceleration (about 80 to 90% of the deceleration required to lock up the brakes and/or to engage the ABS), and they should be made one after the other, without allowing the brakes to cool in between. "
Does anyone actually do this? I can't think of anywhere I can safely go from 60-10-60.
04-28-2011, 07:28 PM
#35
I installed the Raybestos Advanced Technology pads and rotors all the way around and I would highly recommend them. I have been using them for 10k-15k miles with no warping. They are extremely smooth but also have great braking power.
04-28-2011, 09:12 PM
#36
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Feb 2011
Posts: 5
Autozone doesn't have lifetime warranty for rotors. It's one, two or three years. Their pads and shoes have lifetime warranty though.
04-29-2011, 06:46 AM
#37
My plan was to go with a BBK, but I was trying to wait until I bought rims and tires. But...my rotors are warped! So, I'm having a set of Wearevers from Advance Auto put on mine as we speak! This Advance has a special going on: rotors and ceramic pads, cleaner and fluid, shop towels, hand cleaner and a C-clamp for $89.99...
.
Yea...the pads may be "cheap", but they will do the job. I'll give updates in a few months as to performance.
.Yea...the pads may be "cheap", but they will do the job. I'll give updates in a few months as to performance.
Last edited by exandr; 04-29-2011 at 07:47 AM.
04-29-2011, 08:38 AM
#38
As stated above, once you come to a complete stop, resist the urge to press hard on the pedal. Only use enough force to keep your car from moving. Using excessive pressure on the brake pedal after coming to a hard stop is not good for the brakes.
I have Hawk HPS pads and brembo blanks. After some hard repeated braking and about 40k miles, there is no warping. My girlfriend has an 08 accord that she babies (about 45k on the car), and her rotors are warped. I suspect that she uses a ton of force on the pedal even after the car has stopped. Only use enough to keep the car from moving. If you get the front brakes really hot, use the parking brake once stopped to keep the car stationary.
I have Hawk HPS pads and brembo blanks. After some hard repeated braking and about 40k miles, there is no warping. My girlfriend has an 08 accord that she babies (about 45k on the car), and her rotors are warped. I suspect that she uses a ton of force on the pedal even after the car has stopped. Only use enough to keep the car from moving. If you get the front brakes really hot, use the parking brake once stopped to keep the car stationary.
