obx header woes... bad install reveals itself after 1 year
02-23-2011, 09:51 PM
#1
obx header woes... bad install reveals itself after 1 year
Hey guys haven't been on in a while but I have a serious issue and im looking for some advice or input as I have some decisions to make.
I have a bad rattle and my car is stalling, I assumed my catalytic converter was pooched so I took it to my local exhaust shop. After inspecting my car they gave me the bad news....
I have 3 bolts missing on the rear manifold and my gasket is blown. my rattle is part of the header hitting an engine mount when I accelerate. In addition to that, they say my o2's are not hooked up properly and my wire extension job is so bad it will fall apart at any time.
They quoted me roughly $1000 to fix everything and thats almost all labor.
My uncle did my header install and will work on my car for free.... but I'm not sure I trust his work after all this happened to me.
I also have a $5000 ins claim for hail damage that I have the option to take a cash settlement.
I know a body shop guy who can do my hail repairs for $1500-2000
Im trying to decide
1. exhaust shop repairs for $1k or backyard job with no guarantees
2. ins certified body repairs or settle for about $4k cash and get $1500 repairs
If I take the cash from ins it will cover a pro repair on my exhaust but I dont know if it's worth the money or not....
Sorry to be so long winded, for those of you that took the time to read this thank you and I would appreciate some opinions or any alternative suggestions to solve these issues.
Rattling and stalling
Nick
I have a bad rattle and my car is stalling, I assumed my catalytic converter was pooched so I took it to my local exhaust shop. After inspecting my car they gave me the bad news....
I have 3 bolts missing on the rear manifold and my gasket is blown. my rattle is part of the header hitting an engine mount when I accelerate. In addition to that, they say my o2's are not hooked up properly and my wire extension job is so bad it will fall apart at any time.
They quoted me roughly $1000 to fix everything and thats almost all labor.
My uncle did my header install and will work on my car for free.... but I'm not sure I trust his work after all this happened to me.
I also have a $5000 ins claim for hail damage that I have the option to take a cash settlement.
I know a body shop guy who can do my hail repairs for $1500-2000
Im trying to decide
1. exhaust shop repairs for $1k or backyard job with no guarantees
2. ins certified body repairs or settle for about $4k cash and get $1500 repairs
If I take the cash from ins it will cover a pro repair on my exhaust but I dont know if it's worth the money or not....
Sorry to be so long winded, for those of you that took the time to read this thank you and I would appreciate some opinions or any alternative suggestions to solve these issues.
Rattling and stalling
Nick
02-23-2011, 10:04 PM
#2
If you can get the hail dmg fixed that cheap then take the check and go for pro repairs at reputable shop. That will leave you with plenty of cash leftover for whatever you want.
$4k insurance check
-1500 hair repairs
-1000-1500 for header repair
= 1000-1500 in your pocket(NWP spacers, cat back and susp mods)
Kind of a no brainer in my eyes if I read this correctly.
$4k insurance check
-1500 hair repairs
-1000-1500 for header repair
= 1000-1500 in your pocket(NWP spacers, cat back and susp mods)
Kind of a no brainer in my eyes if I read this correctly.
02-23-2011, 10:04 PM
#3
$1000 for what????? A gasket, some bolts and to resplice to your O2 sensor? Maybe I should fly over there and fix it for $1000....sorry to hear all that.....apparently you don't every jack your car up and inspect a damn thing even when you hear abnormal sh!+ going on.......I really don't understand that! But I would definitely shop around for a lower priced a$$ ******* (that's what it sounds like IMO.....) I always inspect my Cattman header assy for security of it's nuts and bolts during every other oil change..... along with everthing else under the car......GL
02-23-2011, 10:39 PM
#8
You got yourself between a rock and a hard spot. But what did the exhaust shop mean by the O2 sensors weren't installed correctly? Are they saying mechanically or electrically? It sounds like your uncle didn't tighten the bolts for the headers properly, which isn't good, but doesn't mean he's an incompetent moron. We all make mistakes. I am leaning towards saying give your uncle a chance, but I have 2 reservations.
#1 - What exactly is this O2 sensors not installed correctly. You screw the sensor into a hole. Other than cross threading, how do you screw that up?
#2 - The wire extension thing. I am guessing that your uncle just twisted the wires together and didn't solder them. If this is true, that's a problem. Twisted connections will loosen up and corrode, ya gotta solder them. If your uncle doesn't solder, then you need another person for that particular task.
On the other side of the coin, if you take a cash settlement on the body damage, how sure are you that your body shop buddy is top notch? Do you want to chance crummy body work?
I personally would want perfection for body work, so I would settle for imperfections in mechanical work as long as I can't see it and it actually works. I was trained by general motors - If you can't make it run, make it look pretty.
That's my .02
#1 - What exactly is this O2 sensors not installed correctly. You screw the sensor into a hole. Other than cross threading, how do you screw that up?
#2 - The wire extension thing. I am guessing that your uncle just twisted the wires together and didn't solder them. If this is true, that's a problem. Twisted connections will loosen up and corrode, ya gotta solder them. If your uncle doesn't solder, then you need another person for that particular task.
On the other side of the coin, if you take a cash settlement on the body damage, how sure are you that your body shop buddy is top notch? Do you want to chance crummy body work?
I personally would want perfection for body work, so I would settle for imperfections in mechanical work as long as I can't see it and it actually works. I was trained by general motors - If you can't make it run, make it look pretty.
That's my .02
02-23-2011, 10:45 PM
#9
My brother found out that the hard way. State Farm gave him $6k for hail damage to a 3 month old truck he had. He unwisely decided to price shop the repairs and found a place (Victory bodyshop in Garland) who would do it for $3400. Honestly, Maaco could have done a better job. Severe overspray all over his door jambs, engine and wheels, runs, sags, fisheyes, visible sanding marks under the paint, flaking paint on the front bumper, excessive orange peel and to top it off, the color didn't match. 3 times in, 3 times out and it was worse each time. He ended up having to sue the bodyshop to recover damages for what they did to his truck.
02-23-2011, 11:46 PM
#11
Kind of what it sounds like, there looks like there is a fisheye in the paint.
Fish Eyes in the Paint when Spraying
Fish Eyes look like little craters on the moon where the paint pulls away from the center. (Looks well, like a fish eye and hence the name). Fish eyes occur immediately upon spraying. Fish eyes are caused by contamination of the surface you are spraying. Water, oil and silicone are the three major culprits. Also, if you leave the wax and grease remover on too long before wiping it off, it can cause fisheyes. When you wetsand out imperfections in the basecoat, sometimes there will be traces of water left causing the problem. To be honest, we had jobs where the fish eyes occurred and we had no idea what caused them as we could find no rhyme or reason for it.
Fish Eyes look like little craters on the moon where the paint pulls away from the center. (Looks well, like a fish eye and hence the name). Fish eyes occur immediately upon spraying. Fish eyes are caused by contamination of the surface you are spraying. Water, oil and silicone are the three major culprits. Also, if you leave the wax and grease remover on too long before wiping it off, it can cause fisheyes. When you wetsand out imperfections in the basecoat, sometimes there will be traces of water left causing the problem. To be honest, we had jobs where the fish eyes occurred and we had no idea what caused them as we could find no rhyme or reason for it.
02-24-2011, 06:15 AM
#12
Next time try and get someone to tighten or at least check the bolts after a month or so of driving. say 3k miles (not sure in km).
As for the wiring, it may have "fallen" apart during your winters up there. Not sure what the shop means by all that, maybe you should post some pics up.
The install may not be that bad, just that the fitment isn't very good, so there is more sress on the components causing them to loosen over time.
As for the wiring, it may have "fallen" apart during your winters up there. Not sure what the shop means by all that, maybe you should post some pics up.
The install may not be that bad, just that the fitment isn't very good, so there is more sress on the components causing them to loosen over time.
02-24-2011, 06:35 AM
#13
1K is pretty steep bro.... i'd rather have the backyard install again, I'm sure if you explain the tragic story then he'd make sure he gets all the bolts on there, I'm sure. When you do that u can swing by a shop and just have em tighten it which should be waaaay less that 1K
02-24-2011, 06:44 AM
#14
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Leicester, Ma
Posts: 1,124
Damn Nmex, 30000 posts so far. WOW. Anyways i agree 1k is pretty steep. Agree with Cmax and Dennis. I would tell your uncle and maybe out of guilt he might want to redo the job but with anything on my car whether i need to send it out for jobs i cant do or backyard work i always watch what the person is doing. Im sure like Nmex said after a first install of anything (wheels, headers, intake) you need to recheck a week or so later just to make sure everything is still tight from driving. Call Nissan and get a exhaust gasket and attempt it yourself. even if you F it up 20 times you're still no where near $1k.
Also i would shop it if you dont want to tackle it on your own. See if there are speed shops around and price it out. Usually for a speed shop this stuff is basic 1+1. regular garages just want to get it in and out and take an arm along with it if they can.
Also i would shop it if you dont want to tackle it on your own. See if there are speed shops around and price it out. Usually for a speed shop this stuff is basic 1+1. regular garages just want to get it in and out and take an arm along with it if they can.
03-01-2011, 03:08 PM
#15
Alright.... I should have checked this thread soon... fail on my part.
The car is in the shop right now. I'll be more specific about what they are doing for the 1k:
weld on new bung for missing o2 sensor.
resolder the wiring.
They claim I have the sensors in the wrong positions, even though I've already been through this with a few of you guys and was pretty sure I had it all figured out.
They are going to do some cutting and welding around the rear flange manifold to fix the fitment and prevent it from hitting the motor mount. Also add another hanger.
they said that right after my resonator the piping is actually crushed down to 1".... I ran over a parking lot curb I think that caused that damage.... my bad so I pay the price now.
My cat is pooched, my muffler is blocked up inside (so they tell me). This is a performance shop across the street from my work and some of my coworkers have told me they are reputable and honest, and I believe this as they aren't BS'ing me and they seem very straightforward in what they are telling me. They are even discount my labor rate because they do business with my shop.
So they are fitting me with a new resonator, high flow cat, and magnaflow muffler.... it seems now the bill is going to be more along the lines of 12-1400 though.
I might just let them fix the fitment, piping, wiring and cat... and keep my muffler till I can get the megan shipped here.
Anybody reading this and thinking about getting headers.... BUY CATTMAN. Im not friends with him and I dont have any of his products but it is my understanding his fitment is spot on and even if you can modify the obx and grind this and that to make it work.... it's not worth the hassle and im kicking myself today for cheaping out on the headers last year.
Okay just got a phone call from the shop... Im sitting at 13-1500 with a new high flow cat. That does not include anything behind the cat which is where my crushed pipe is.
I told them to wrap it up and they wont be doing any more work... my mastercard is barely able to handle the charge I hope I get to take my car home tomorrow.
I'm going to wait till I get the car and see how bad the catback portion is. After that I'll see if I can swing the extra expense and order the megan catback, my uncle will be doing the install for that. s#!@$#%@$^##$@$@#$#$ .... ftl... Im an idiot for going to this shop I just got screwed on this job, I sure hope they got it all fitting 100%.
Also, the body guy works for a ford dealer here and my friend gets paint and parts straight from the manufacturers (nissan included). His work is quality, he did my friends mustang after he toasted his drivers side with a lamp post, it looks good as new. Also he just did my inlaws truck which I had borrowed and wrecked the front fender, also looks good as new. My friend tells me that the paint job quality is as good as the factory. I think I'll take my chances as I can't afford much else.
The car is in the shop right now. I'll be more specific about what they are doing for the 1k:
weld on new bung for missing o2 sensor.
resolder the wiring.
They claim I have the sensors in the wrong positions, even though I've already been through this with a few of you guys and was pretty sure I had it all figured out.
They are going to do some cutting and welding around the rear flange manifold to fix the fitment and prevent it from hitting the motor mount. Also add another hanger.
they said that right after my resonator the piping is actually crushed down to 1".... I ran over a parking lot curb I think that caused that damage.... my bad so I pay the price now.
My cat is pooched, my muffler is blocked up inside (so they tell me). This is a performance shop across the street from my work and some of my coworkers have told me they are reputable and honest, and I believe this as they aren't BS'ing me and they seem very straightforward in what they are telling me. They are even discount my labor rate because they do business with my shop.
So they are fitting me with a new resonator, high flow cat, and magnaflow muffler.... it seems now the bill is going to be more along the lines of 12-1400 though.
I might just let them fix the fitment, piping, wiring and cat... and keep my muffler till I can get the megan shipped here.
Anybody reading this and thinking about getting headers.... BUY CATTMAN. Im not friends with him and I dont have any of his products but it is my understanding his fitment is spot on and even if you can modify the obx and grind this and that to make it work.... it's not worth the hassle and im kicking myself today for cheaping out on the headers last year.
Okay just got a phone call from the shop... Im sitting at 13-1500 with a new high flow cat. That does not include anything behind the cat which is where my crushed pipe is.
I told them to wrap it up and they wont be doing any more work... my mastercard is barely able to handle the charge I hope I get to take my car home tomorrow.
I'm going to wait till I get the car and see how bad the catback portion is. After that I'll see if I can swing the extra expense and order the megan catback, my uncle will be doing the install for that. s#!@$#%@$^##$@$@#$#$ .... ftl... Im an idiot for going to this shop I just got screwed on this job, I sure hope they got it all fitting 100%.
Also, the body guy works for a ford dealer here and my friend gets paint and parts straight from the manufacturers (nissan included). His work is quality, he did my friends mustang after he toasted his drivers side with a lamp post, it looks good as new. Also he just did my inlaws truck which I had borrowed and wrecked the front fender, also looks good as new. My friend tells me that the paint job quality is as good as the factory. I think I'll take my chances as I can't afford much else.
Last edited by NmexMAX; 03-01-2011 at 04:21 PM.
03-01-2011, 05:16 PM
#16
Damn sad to hear was thinkink OBX since they are cheap but will rather pay for the quality of CATTMAN headers, would be all over them right now but trying to clear my credit card and save money to get a house... but damn it always be tempting but oh well soon will get them....Good Luck on your ride and should get down and turn some wrenches if you do get a exhaust....so you learn more and trust your own work....
03-01-2011, 05:28 PM
#17
03-01-2011, 10:10 PM
#18
Well don't feel bad NZelinsky, your OBX headers aren't the only ones the fell apart or cracked, etc...You know the saying............! Anyway I 've got all the necessary tools loaded and I'm waiting too see if you want my services for $1000?
It's extremely hard to destroy and OEM Exhaust manifold gasket (laminated Stainless Steel)!!!!! As far as the **** loosening up I check my every time I change my oil....But It should've been done about 100-500 miles after the install.....I installed those copper SCE gaskets(@ the Primary collector flange) from day 1 and I've never regretted it....
I went the extra mile and installed longer SS Bolts with SS lockwashers and SS nuts, I almost safety wired them as well but didn't.... Good luck your OBX experience!!!!!
It's extremely hard to destroy and OEM Exhaust manifold gasket (laminated Stainless Steel)!!!!! As far as the **** loosening up I check my every time I change my oil....But It should've been done about 100-500 miles after the install.....I installed those copper SCE gaskets(@ the Primary collector flange) from day 1 and I've never regretted it....
I went the extra mile and installed longer SS Bolts with SS lockwashers and SS nuts, I almost safety wired them as well but didn't.... Good luck your OBX experience!!!!!
Last edited by CMax03; 03-01-2011 at 10:13 PM.
03-02-2011, 12:15 AM
#21
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Mar 2011
Posts: 3
Installing a header will not cause transmission problems. Only maintenance and how the car has been treated. I do not believe you will need to reset the ecu, but if you do disconnect the battery for about a hour and that should work.
03-02-2011, 12:33 AM
#22
03-02-2011, 12:52 AM
#23
Alright.... I should have checked this thread soon... fail on my part.
The car is in the shop right now. I'll be more specific about what they are doing for the 1k:
weld on new bung for missing o2 sensor. 20-50 bucks depending on shop
resolder the wiring. shouldn't be much, i had a friend do mine
They claim I have the sensors in the wrong positions, even though I've already been through this with a few of you guys and was pretty sure I had it all figured out.
They are going to do some cutting and welding around the rear flange manifold to fix the fitment and prevent it from hitting the motor mount. Also add another hanger. add a hanger where?? i don't have any hangers on my obx headers..
they said that right after my resonator the piping is actually crushed down to 1".... I ran over a parking lot curb I think that caused that damage.... my bad so I pay the price now.
My cat is pooched, my muffler is blocked up inside (so they tell me). This is a performance shop across the street from my work and some of my coworkers have told me they are reputable and honest, and I believe this as they aren't BS'ing me and they seem very straightforward in what they are telling me. They are even discount my labor rate because they do business with my shop. you should get a resonated test pipe from ebay. magnaflow sells it for $70 i think or you can get a cheap one for $30-$50
So they are fitting me with a new resonator, high flow cat, and magnaflow muffler.... it seems now the bill is going to be more along the lines of 12-1400 though.
I might just let them fix the fitment, piping, wiring and cat... and keep my muffler till I can get the megan shipped here.
Anybody reading this and thinking about getting headers.... BUY CATTMAN. Im not friends with him and I dont have any of his products but it is my understanding his fitment is spot on and even if you can modify the obx and grind this and that to make it work.... it's not worth the hassle and im kicking myself today for cheaping out on the headers last year. but if the cattman headers were installed improperly, i'm guessing most of the same damage would occur.. (not knocking cattman, just saying obx isn't that bad if installed correctly IMO.. just gonna end it here since i don't wanna clutter your thread up with another obx vs cattman comparison/arguement)
Okay just got a phone call from the shop... Im sitting at 13-1500 with a new high flow cat. That does not include anything behind the cat which is where my crushed pipe is.
I told them to wrap it up and they wont be doing any more work... my mastercard is barely able to handle the charge I hope I get to take my car home tomorrow.
I'm going to wait till I get the car and see how bad the catback portion is. After that I'll see if I can swing the extra expense and order the megan catback, my uncle will be doing the install for that. s#!@$#%@$^##$@$@#$#$ .... ftl... Im an idiot for going to this shop I just got screwed on this job, I sure hope they got it all fitting 100%.
Also, the body guy works for a ford dealer here and my friend gets paint and parts straight from the manufacturers (nissan included). His work is quality, he did my friends mustang after he toasted his drivers side with a lamp post, it looks good as new. Also he just did my inlaws truck which I had borrowed and wrecked the front fender, also looks good as new. My friend tells me that the paint job quality is as good as the factory. I think I'll take my chances as I can't afford much else.
The car is in the shop right now. I'll be more specific about what they are doing for the 1k:
weld on new bung for missing o2 sensor. 20-50 bucks depending on shop
resolder the wiring. shouldn't be much, i had a friend do mine
They claim I have the sensors in the wrong positions, even though I've already been through this with a few of you guys and was pretty sure I had it all figured out.
They are going to do some cutting and welding around the rear flange manifold to fix the fitment and prevent it from hitting the motor mount. Also add another hanger. add a hanger where?? i don't have any hangers on my obx headers..
they said that right after my resonator the piping is actually crushed down to 1".... I ran over a parking lot curb I think that caused that damage.... my bad so I pay the price now.
My cat is pooched, my muffler is blocked up inside (so they tell me). This is a performance shop across the street from my work and some of my coworkers have told me they are reputable and honest, and I believe this as they aren't BS'ing me and they seem very straightforward in what they are telling me. They are even discount my labor rate because they do business with my shop. you should get a resonated test pipe from ebay. magnaflow sells it for $70 i think or you can get a cheap one for $30-$50
So they are fitting me with a new resonator, high flow cat, and magnaflow muffler.... it seems now the bill is going to be more along the lines of 12-1400 though.
I might just let them fix the fitment, piping, wiring and cat... and keep my muffler till I can get the megan shipped here.
Anybody reading this and thinking about getting headers.... BUY CATTMAN. Im not friends with him and I dont have any of his products but it is my understanding his fitment is spot on and even if you can modify the obx and grind this and that to make it work.... it's not worth the hassle and im kicking myself today for cheaping out on the headers last year. but if the cattman headers were installed improperly, i'm guessing most of the same damage would occur.. (not knocking cattman, just saying obx isn't that bad if installed correctly IMO.. just gonna end it here since i don't wanna clutter your thread up with another obx vs cattman comparison/arguement)
Okay just got a phone call from the shop... Im sitting at 13-1500 with a new high flow cat. That does not include anything behind the cat which is where my crushed pipe is.
I told them to wrap it up and they wont be doing any more work... my mastercard is barely able to handle the charge I hope I get to take my car home tomorrow.
I'm going to wait till I get the car and see how bad the catback portion is. After that I'll see if I can swing the extra expense and order the megan catback, my uncle will be doing the install for that. s#!@$#%@$^##$@$@#$#$ .... ftl... Im an idiot for going to this shop I just got screwed on this job, I sure hope they got it all fitting 100%.
Also, the body guy works for a ford dealer here and my friend gets paint and parts straight from the manufacturers (nissan included). His work is quality, he did my friends mustang after he toasted his drivers side with a lamp post, it looks good as new. Also he just did my inlaws truck which I had borrowed and wrecked the front fender, also looks good as new. My friend tells me that the paint job quality is as good as the factory. I think I'll take my chances as I can't afford much else.
03-02-2011, 08:15 PM
#24
That's some smart thinking there!!!!!!!!! Get some real headers man!!!!!! If I was close, I would fix all your header problems for cheaper than a grand!
Last edited by CMax03; 03-02-2011 at 08:17 PM.
03-03-2011, 06:48 AM
#27
Do not have any mechanical skill at all? Buy your gaskets and fix that stuff with your uncle......next time retorque all your hdw and you'll be ok! Just let them fix that broken bung.....which you don't need use the one down stream from it kid.......
03-03-2011, 07:18 AM
#28
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2009
Posts: 2,132
05-14-2011, 02:56 PM
#29
No.. NO second chances for Uncle "Can'tGetRight".. Do not let that man touch that work of art we call a Maxima.. But I must agree with most of the others in getting all new replacement parts.. OBX headers if you can't afford Cattman IMO..
05-15-2011, 09:31 AM
#30
Just thought I'd throw this out.....for anyone who has looked at their stock exhaust, right after the resonator, the stock pipe is "flattened" along the bottom to allow clearance over a cross bracket immediately behind the resonator.
I just recently noticed this on my car, it is designed that way, it is NOT damage as the flat section along the bottom of the pipe is smooth. But it does appear the pipe closes down in that secton to about 1".......that one section is why I am now set on replacing the entire exhaust system on this car....ridiculous!
Point: This is nothing that shop needed to "repair." They were taking advantage of you. Word of wisdom...when a shop tells you something is wrong, tell them you want to SEE it!! Early on, I may not have known what I was looking at when I did this, but that is how you learn. And when something looked fine, I told them to show ("teach") me what they were seeing. The way I see it, they have to EARN my dollar, not convince me to hand it over.
When I feel a shop is simply trying to convince me of something....I just keep in mind the first three letters of the word....C-O-N.
I just recently noticed this on my car, it is designed that way, it is NOT damage as the flat section along the bottom of the pipe is smooth. But it does appear the pipe closes down in that secton to about 1".......that one section is why I am now set on replacing the entire exhaust system on this car....ridiculous!
Point: This is nothing that shop needed to "repair." They were taking advantage of you. Word of wisdom...when a shop tells you something is wrong, tell them you want to SEE it!! Early on, I may not have known what I was looking at when I did this, but that is how you learn. And when something looked fine, I told them to show ("teach") me what they were seeing. The way I see it, they have to EARN my dollar, not convince me to hand it over.
When I feel a shop is simply trying to convince me of something....I just keep in mind the first three letters of the word....C-O-N.
05-15-2011, 09:51 AM
#31
Just thought I'd throw this out.....for anyone who has looked at their stock exhaust, right after the resonator, the stock pipe is "flattened" along the bottom to allow clearance over a cross bracket immediately behind the resonator.
I just recently noticed this on my car, it is designed that way, it is NOT damage as the flat section along the bottom of the pipe is smooth. But it does appear the pipe closes down in that secton to about 1".......that one section is why I am now set on replacing the entire exhaust system on this car....ridiculous!
Point: This is nothing that shop needed to "repair." They were taking advantage of you. Word of wisdom...when a shop tells you something is wrong, tell them you want to SEE it!! Early on, I may not have known what I was looking at when I did this, but that is how you learn. And when something looked fine, I told them to show ("teach") me what they were seeing. The way I see it, they have to EARN my dollar, not convince me to hand it over.
When I feel a shop is simply trying to convince me of something....I just keep in mind the first three letters of the word....C-O-N.
I just recently noticed this on my car, it is designed that way, it is NOT damage as the flat section along the bottom of the pipe is smooth. But it does appear the pipe closes down in that secton to about 1".......that one section is why I am now set on replacing the entire exhaust system on this car....ridiculous!
Point: This is nothing that shop needed to "repair." They were taking advantage of you. Word of wisdom...when a shop tells you something is wrong, tell them you want to SEE it!! Early on, I may not have known what I was looking at when I did this, but that is how you learn. And when something looked fine, I told them to show ("teach") me what they were seeing. The way I see it, they have to EARN my dollar, not convince me to hand it over.
When I feel a shop is simply trying to convince me of something....I just keep in mind the first three letters of the word....C-O-N.
try are (2) flat spots on that Bpipe.....I think having them cut out and replace with straight pipe may give a little extra performance but no where near that of a 3" system......
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