2000/2001 TunerMax Grill Conversion DIY
02-14-2011, 10:00 AM
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2000/2001 TunerMax Grill Conversion DIY
2000/2001 Tunermax Grill Conversion – 2002/2003 Grill
PICTURE HEAVY
First - This is NOT a simple grill install, you will need to cut your 2000/2001 bumper to make this work. So read the entire DIY before you start anything, that way you can decide if you actually want to do it.
Second - You have a few options on how to do this, so this DIY is discretionary of course. I used a 2002 OEM Grill. Installed on a 2001 OEM bumper, I cannot comment on aftermarket grill/bumper fitment, I would assume they are close enough to the same, just be advised.
Third - I am one of the first/only to do this that I'm aware of, so as such I did it all flying by the seat of my pants.
I compiled these instructions in an order I think I would follow if I were to do it over again on another car, so bear with me if something seems out of place.
Fourth and lastly - The biggest decisions you have to make are:
1. If you're going to remove the front bumper to do this, I did because it was freezing cold out, and it's just easier to work on, fit, etc. I do believe you can do this without removing the bumper, but expect it to be a bit of a pain in the butt by comparison.
2. How or if you are going to fill the gap at the sides of the grill (you'll see what I mean soon). To keep this straightforward, I've only included the way I did it.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
TOOLS NEEDED:
1. Dremel with assorted bits, cutter bit is mandatory
2. 2002/2003 grill
3. 220 Grit Wet/Dry Sandpaper
4. 400 Grit Wet/Dry Sandpaper
5. 600 Grit Wet/Dry Sandpaper ( I suggest you get 800+ grits as well but you don't have to, I DID)
6. ProForm PF 702 Epoxy plastic filler or equivalent product
7. OEM Insert piece for 2000/2001 grill - this should be attached to your bumper
8. Hardware to secure grill
9. Sand able fill-type Primer. (If you’re painting the grill black get black primer, vice-versa for white, etc. Worth the extra money- this way WHEN your grill gets stone chipped, it won’t be a completely different colour
) Just make sure you buy good stuff, better the filling capabilities the better, and MUST be sand able. Don’t try to save a couple dollars here, you’ll hate the results down the road if you do.
10. High quality spray paint – same deal here, don’t cheap out, buy good paint. It’s going on the FRONT of your car.
11. Needle nose vice-grips, or some type of clamping device, a couple would be useful for test fitting.
Total cost for supplies was around $120 CAD for me. I already had some Wet/Dry sandpaper so I didnt need to buy that.
Let's get to work:
1. If you're removing your bumper, do it now. I couldn't find the DIY for this, but it's out there. You'll need to pull back the wheel well splash guards, there are 2 10mm bolts on either side near the clearance lights, and the rest should be pop out clips.
2. Set up a good work station, put the bumper on a couple tables, whatever works for you, something around waist height.
3. This is the point of no return for your stock grill.
Now, cut out your grill, you can find the instructions for this stage in the Street Scenes grill DIY. I can't find it though, it's all dead links in the FAQ.
I can't help you with it because mine was already cut out. Here's what I started with:
You need to save the insert piece, so don't destroy it. Use a stubby Phillips screw driver to remove it.
Once the insert piece is removed, you will need to trim down the remaining bumper cut-out, basically you want it smooth all the way around. Here is a pic before its trimmed:
4. Whether you kept the bumper on the car or not, you need to do something with the upper grill support bracket. If you pulled the bumper off, you can just cut the bracket where it is, if you left the bumper on, you will need to pull the bracket off completely or it'll be in your way.
Here is that bracket (already removed):
These are the two pieces you want after cutting:
Also remove the licence plate and bracket if equipped.
PICTURE HEAVY
First - This is NOT a simple grill install, you will need to cut your 2000/2001 bumper to make this work. So read the entire DIY before you start anything, that way you can decide if you actually want to do it.
Second - You have a few options on how to do this, so this DIY is discretionary of course. I used a 2002 OEM Grill. Installed on a 2001 OEM bumper, I cannot comment on aftermarket grill/bumper fitment, I would assume they are close enough to the same, just be advised.
Third - I am one of the first/only to do this that I'm aware of, so as such I did it all flying by the seat of my pants.
I compiled these instructions in an order I think I would follow if I were to do it over again on another car, so bear with me if something seems out of place.
Fourth and lastly - The biggest decisions you have to make are:
1. If you're going to remove the front bumper to do this, I did because it was freezing cold out, and it's just easier to work on, fit, etc. I do believe you can do this without removing the bumper, but expect it to be a bit of a pain in the butt by comparison.
2. How or if you are going to fill the gap at the sides of the grill (you'll see what I mean soon). To keep this straightforward, I've only included the way I did it.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
TOOLS NEEDED:
1. Dremel with assorted bits, cutter bit is mandatory
2. 2002/2003 grill
3. 220 Grit Wet/Dry Sandpaper
4. 400 Grit Wet/Dry Sandpaper
5. 600 Grit Wet/Dry Sandpaper ( I suggest you get 800+ grits as well but you don't have to, I DID)
6. ProForm PF 702 Epoxy plastic filler or equivalent product
7. OEM Insert piece for 2000/2001 grill - this should be attached to your bumper
8. Hardware to secure grill
9. Sand able fill-type Primer. (If you’re painting the grill black get black primer, vice-versa for white, etc. Worth the extra money- this way WHEN your grill gets stone chipped, it won’t be a completely different colour
) Just make sure you buy good stuff, better the filling capabilities the better, and MUST be sand able. Don’t try to save a couple dollars here, you’ll hate the results down the road if you do.10. High quality spray paint – same deal here, don’t cheap out, buy good paint. It’s going on the FRONT of your car.
11. Needle nose vice-grips, or some type of clamping device, a couple would be useful for test fitting.
Total cost for supplies was around $120 CAD for me. I already had some Wet/Dry sandpaper so I didnt need to buy that.
Let's get to work:
1. If you're removing your bumper, do it now. I couldn't find the DIY for this, but it's out there. You'll need to pull back the wheel well splash guards, there are 2 10mm bolts on either side near the clearance lights, and the rest should be pop out clips.
2. Set up a good work station, put the bumper on a couple tables, whatever works for you, something around waist height.
3. This is the point of no return for your stock grill.
Now, cut out your grill, you can find the instructions for this stage in the Street Scenes grill DIY. I can't find it though, it's all dead links in the FAQ.
I can't help you with it because mine was already cut out. Here's what I started with:
You need to save the insert piece, so don't destroy it. Use a stubby Phillips screw driver to remove it.
Once the insert piece is removed, you will need to trim down the remaining bumper cut-out, basically you want it smooth all the way around. Here is a pic before its trimmed:
4. Whether you kept the bumper on the car or not, you need to do something with the upper grill support bracket. If you pulled the bumper off, you can just cut the bracket where it is, if you left the bumper on, you will need to pull the bracket off completely or it'll be in your way.
Here is that bracket (already removed):
These are the two pieces you want after cutting:
Also remove the licence plate and bracket if equipped.
02-14-2011, 10:01 AM
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5. Test fit your 5.5 grill. You should be able to tilt the top into place and weasel the bottom in, there will be a lot of resistance, as you're going to be stretching the moulding. Don't try to force it all the way at this point, keep your eyes open for any hindrances that you may have missed in your trimming, if necessary trim some more.
Note: As long as you're trimming the grey portion of the bumper moulding, you don't need to get incredibly fancy, no one will see it when this project is done.
If your grill doesn't seem like it’s close to fitting in at this point, you've missed something. Here are some pics of where we're at from the back side:
6. Trim (cut off) the 3 little guides on the top of the OEM 5.5 grill, trim line is marked with red:
7. Use a grinder stone/emery wheel on your Dremel to sand down the support ridges on the lower 2 inside clips. You want this surface flat for when you mount the grill, otherwise when you tighten it the washer will cause the grille to slide out of place. You'll note I cut out the center of mine, don't do this it was un-necessary.
8. Now, your grill should go into place, slide the top in first then push in the bottom, a friend may be handy for this part, but not necessary. You want to start deciding how far in you want the grill, so push it in, and use the Vice grips to clamp it in place (clamp on one or both of the tabs you just smoothed out, as this will be your securement point later on).
Now eyeball everything, look at your lines, gaps, etc. Move it around as many times as you need until you're happy with it, take your time to get it in place.
Couple pics of this stage:
You're a little excited now, right?
Moving on...
9. You'll no doubt note the string-line of the bumper trim edge has stood up because of you stretching the top of the moulding:
This is where you decide how to combat the gap that should be fairly evident.
It was suggested to try and use some rubber, similar to that used on the top of some headlights:
Pic courtesy of Rochester
You are welcome to try this, it's cheap and if it works for you, you won't have to sand, or bother with most of the remaining steps. Personally, I don't think it would look good enough for me.
Feel free to toy with other ideas for filling the gap as well. Read through my two threads on this topic if you haven't already, I list a couple options I originally considered when faced with this issue.
http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...-can-done.html
http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...tall-pics.html
The rest of this DIY requires me to assume you are capable of performing the tasks ahead, if you’re feeling overwhelmed at this point, I suggest you stop and consider another gap filling option, or a way to go backwards... You can always put in a Street Scenes grill or something at this point too.
It gets more involved from this point on .
Note: As long as you're trimming the grey portion of the bumper moulding, you don't need to get incredibly fancy, no one will see it when this project is done.
If your grill doesn't seem like it’s close to fitting in at this point, you've missed something. Here are some pics of where we're at from the back side:
6. Trim (cut off) the 3 little guides on the top of the OEM 5.5 grill, trim line is marked with red:
7. Use a grinder stone/emery wheel on your Dremel to sand down the support ridges on the lower 2 inside clips. You want this surface flat for when you mount the grill, otherwise when you tighten it the washer will cause the grille to slide out of place. You'll note I cut out the center of mine, don't do this it was un-necessary.
8. Now, your grill should go into place, slide the top in first then push in the bottom, a friend may be handy for this part, but not necessary. You want to start deciding how far in you want the grill, so push it in, and use the Vice grips to clamp it in place (clamp on one or both of the tabs you just smoothed out, as this will be your securement point later on).
Now eyeball everything, look at your lines, gaps, etc. Move it around as many times as you need until you're happy with it, take your time to get it in place.
Couple pics of this stage:
You're a little excited now, right?
Moving on...9. You'll no doubt note the string-line of the bumper trim edge has stood up because of you stretching the top of the moulding:
This is where you decide how to combat the gap that should be fairly evident.
It was suggested to try and use some rubber, similar to that used on the top of some headlights:
Pic courtesy of Rochester
You are welcome to try this, it's cheap and if it works for you, you won't have to sand, or bother with most of the remaining steps. Personally, I don't think it would look good enough for me.
Feel free to toy with other ideas for filling the gap as well. Read through my two threads on this topic if you haven't already, I list a couple options I originally considered when faced with this issue.
http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...-can-done.html
http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...tall-pics.html
The rest of this DIY requires me to assume you are capable of performing the tasks ahead, if you’re feeling overwhelmed at this point, I suggest you stop and consider another gap filling option, or a way to go backwards... You can always put in a Street Scenes grill or something at this point too.
It gets more involved from this point on .
02-14-2011, 10:02 AM
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I'll take you through what is necessary for the way I chose, time for the fancy cutting:
Cut those pesky trim lines on the moulding, they are holding way too much tension:
10. Now it’s time to make our insert pieces. You can use cardboard templates, etc to do this more precisely if you want. I did it by eye.
To mark the first cut I put the insert piece against the 5.5 grill and marked it about 2” past the end of the curve on the bottom. The top mark was about 1.25” past the curve. This is so you have extra material to gradually transition the different radii together (5.5 grill and 5th gen insert). See pics below of cut piece for clarification.
First Cut:
Cut extra, you can always trim it off later but you will find it very difficult to put it back on . This cut should be straight, don’t try to get it trimmed or curved to fit yet. See pics for clarification.
Replicate this piece on the other side. If you put the piece you just cut back to back with the remaining insert piece, you can mark it exactly.
You’ll need to trim the old mounting standoffs, cut these at the 90* (corner edge)
Now put the pieces in place, temporarily secure with needle nose vice grips on the back side.
Put the grill into place as much as possible, and look where/how you will need to cut the inserts in order to accommodate the grill. Ensure that you’re keeping both sides even when checking, and mark the curve of the 5.5 grill onto the insert pieces. See pics of my markings below:
Second Cut:
Make a rough cut -leaving extra material- along the line you just marked. Concentrate the bulk of your cutting the back-side of the insert pieces (where you won’t see it). Then you can gradually work the curve out toward the visible portion. Take your time. This is my second cut:
Now test fit again. Make sure your radii are close to that of the 5.5 grill. You should be able to/or be really close to fitting the 5.5 grill all the way now with the inserts in place.
Make another mark if necessary, trim a little bit at a time off the Inserts until you like the way it looks.
Remember, you don’t want the inserts to sit perfectly flat against the bumper cut-out, otherwise the top edge won’t meet the 5.5 grill. (if you have the pieces cut and are test fitting, you’ll know what I’m talking about here)
Couple pics of test fitting:
Cut those pesky trim lines on the moulding, they are holding way too much tension:
10. Now it’s time to make our insert pieces. You can use cardboard templates, etc to do this more precisely if you want. I did it by eye.
To mark the first cut I put the insert piece against the 5.5 grill and marked it about 2” past the end of the curve on the bottom. The top mark was about 1.25” past the curve. This is so you have extra material to gradually transition the different radii together (5.5 grill and 5th gen insert). See pics below of cut piece for clarification.
First Cut:
Cut extra, you can always trim it off later but you will find it very difficult to put it back on . This cut should be straight, don’t try to get it trimmed or curved to fit yet. See pics for clarification.
Replicate this piece on the other side. If you put the piece you just cut back to back with the remaining insert piece, you can mark it exactly.
You’ll need to trim the old mounting standoffs, cut these at the 90* (corner edge)
Now put the pieces in place, temporarily secure with needle nose vice grips on the back side.
Put the grill into place as much as possible, and look where/how you will need to cut the inserts in order to accommodate the grill. Ensure that you’re keeping both sides even when checking, and mark the curve of the 5.5 grill onto the insert pieces. See pics of my markings below:
Second Cut:
Make a rough cut -leaving extra material- along the line you just marked. Concentrate the bulk of your cutting the back-side of the insert pieces (where you won’t see it). Then you can gradually work the curve out toward the visible portion. Take your time. This is my second cut:
Now test fit again. Make sure your radii are close to that of the 5.5 grill. You should be able to/or be really close to fitting the 5.5 grill all the way now with the inserts in place.
Make another mark if necessary, trim a little bit at a time off the Inserts until you like the way it looks.
Remember, you don’t want the inserts to sit perfectly flat against the bumper cut-out, otherwise the top edge won’t meet the 5.5 grill. (if you have the pieces cut and are test fitting, you’ll know what I’m talking about here)
Couple pics of test fitting:
02-14-2011, 10:02 AM
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This was my final cut on the bottom:
11. Once you have the pieces made, rough them up with some 200 Grit sandpaper, likewise for the edges of the grill, make sure to get the inside edge and everything, otherwise the epoxy will be less likely to stick.
Be careful not to sand down the raised edges on the grill (bars), I did a bit, and it’s a pain to get them smooth again. If you never touch them you’ll be better off.
Tape off the bumper well, this epoxy sticks very nicely and you don’t want to have to paint your bumper. You also don’t want to epoxy the grill OR insert pieces to the bumper.
12. Put the insert pieces and bumper into place, use vice grips, whatever you need to use to get it temporarily SECURE. And make sure it’s where you want it, this will be where your grill sits when it’s all said and done, you will have very little wiggle room after the epoxy attaches the insert pieces and the grill.
Disregard the Epoxy in this pic, I want you to note I used a small piece of the old insert cut-out to set the proper gap and hold the insert piece. If you use the same sized piece in the same location on both sides, you’ll know the gap is pretty close to even on both sides.
I can’t stress it enough, take your time getting this secured HOW YOU WANT IT. Measure to make sure it’s even, then remeasure, check all gaps and lines, check the depth of the grill.
If you removed your bumper, I recommend you take it out to the car and rest it back into place, match the grill and inserts to the cut out ridge in the hood line.
I forgot this step and mine is off just a shade because of it.
It’s a pain to take this step, you may want a buddy to hold things and help, but this step is well worth it at the end of your project.
13. Now that everything is secure, make sure your bumper is at room temperature (inside for at least 30 mins).
Mix your epoxy, and apply in the gap.
The mixing instructions differ depending on what you’re using, the PF702 was a 50/50 mix.
The smoother the initial coat, the fewer coats, and less sanding you will need, so do a good job:
You’ll note on the first gap I just put ‘blotches’ on in order to secure the two pieces.
You can do this if you are unsure of the fitment (that’s why I did it). That way after it cures, you can recheck the fitment, and if you’re happy with it just apply another coat (you don’t have to re-install). If you’re not, you can fairly easily cut the epoxy and reset it.
Let the epoxy set. The ProForm stuff I used was about 15-20mins and you could sand it.
14. Remove the grill, wet sand with the 220 grit to form. I can’t fully explain how you’re supposed to do this and I don’t think I should have to, this is on you guys all I can do is show pics.
Make sure you wet sand though, plastics are difficult to sand properly and dry sanding plastics is not recommended (not by me anyways). Another tip is to sand in circles, try to make them as random as possible (random orbital sanding).
After initial sanding:
15. Test fit, I used a marker and put ‘+’ marks where I needed to build up and ‘x’ where I needed to sand down more.
Remove, sand down all ‘x’ areas, re-test, remark if necessary. Repeat this process until you’re ready to add epoxy. You will likely have spots that need sanded around the edge and backside of the grill/insert piece in order to get it to fit into place properly.
16. You don’t need to have the grill installed for the second coat, I didn’t because I didn’t want that epoxy on my bumper at any cost, and I also wanted the tape out of my way for test fitting and eye-balling.
It’s your call either way, but apply the second coat, this coat make sure you add more epoxy at the ends of your ‘insert pieces’, where the radii meet the grill, you’ll need to smooth this edge out to look like it’s all one piece/curve.
Note on the bottom you cannot add much epoxy, otherwise you run into clearance issues. This is not so much an issue at the top as you will see.
02-14-2011, 10:03 AM
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17. Let the epoxy cure. Test fit again. Mark it again, repeat. Once you are getting happy with the shape and smoothness of it, start going to the finer grit wet sandpaper. I only listed a couple wet sandpaper grits in the items needed, but if you can tolerate higher grits and more ‘stepping’ you’ll yield better end results.
This post is mainly random pics of sanding/fitting process:
And This will get taxing on you, but keep in mind, the further down you go with the 220 grit, the more likely you will have to put another coat of epoxy on to fill in the scratches. Take your time and repeat this process until you’re happy and around a 600 Grit.
18. If there is anywhere you need to trim on the bumper or the grill, you want to do it now. So put that grill in place where you want it to stay for the rest of its existence. If you’re unhappy with it, do something about it now, or it will bother you later. For me this process was install, trim, install, trim, and sand, repeat.
I trimmed the top edge just a bit at this step to get it sitting a little better, red marks are where I trimmed:
This post is mainly random pics of sanding/fitting process:
And This will get taxing on you, but keep in mind, the further down you go with the 220 grit, the more likely you will have to put another coat of epoxy on to fill in the scratches. Take your time and repeat this process until you’re happy and around a 600 Grit.
18. If there is anywhere you need to trim on the bumper or the grill, you want to do it now. So put that grill in place where you want it to stay for the rest of its existence. If you’re unhappy with it, do something about it now, or it will bother you later. For me this process was install, trim, install, trim, and sand, repeat.
I trimmed the top edge just a bit at this step to get it sitting a little better, red marks are where I trimmed:
02-14-2011, 10:04 AM
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19. I would advise you to install your hardware now. Put your grill in place, hold with vice grips or whatever but make sure you can get in to mark your holes.
QUADRUPLE check the fitment at this point, you DO NOT want to have to mess around trying to secure this grill in a different way because you drilled the holes in the wrong location.
Measure your Hardware, from the edge of the clip to the nut center, mine was ¼”. Use that measurement to mark the location of your bolt hole.
Ensure that you have enough ‘meat’ to allow the Bolt and Nut-Clip to properly secure the grill.
Now drill out 5/16” (if you got ¼” threads in your hardware) holes in each of the 2 tabs (as close to the center as possible, guided by your marking), through the bumper. Pic with holes drilled and grill removed:
Remove the grill, install the clips, reinstall the grill and secure. Make sure it’s sitting exactly how you want it and secured nicely at the bottom. If it looks good, pull the grill out again.
20. You should have a very smooth grill in front of you. Other than the mismatched colours, it shouldn’t be too apparent that the grill was ever modified (from the front). Now you just want to get it prepped, wet sand (fine grit, 600/800+) every part of the grill you intend on painting. I only painted the ‘bars’ and the outer edge.
Then the tedious job of masking the grill. Do it well!
Once done, dry and clean the grill with a micro-fibre cloth, and apply your first coat of primer.
Don’t try to put too much on you’ll be wasting your time anyways, a nice light coat is fine.
This pic is 2 coats, I used up some grey primer I had laying around for the first 2 coats:
21. Inspect the grill once the primer is dry, primer has a tendency to bring out imperfections, so if there are any you should see them now.
I had to apply another epoxy coat because of some little pin-holes that became apparent. (If you have to epoxy again, do it, then repeat the steps for sanding). Wet sand everything again very lightly with a high grit (800+). The primer should fill in any minor scratches.
22. If you’re done with the epoxy and all cutting, it’s time for your primer coats.
Apply light, even coats, light wet sanding and drying/cleaning with microfiber cloth in-between each coat.
Don’t rush it and try to apply too much, or paint before the previous coat has cured, these are the most common mistakes made in DIY paint jobs.
After you’ve got some good coats on (I put on 5) let it cure overnight (around 8 hours should be ok, most recommend 24 hours but I think that’s ridiculous.
QUADRUPLE check the fitment at this point, you DO NOT want to have to mess around trying to secure this grill in a different way because you drilled the holes in the wrong location.
Measure your Hardware, from the edge of the clip to the nut center, mine was ¼”. Use that measurement to mark the location of your bolt hole.
Ensure that you have enough ‘meat’ to allow the Bolt and Nut-Clip to properly secure the grill.
Now drill out 5/16” (if you got ¼” threads in your hardware) holes in each of the 2 tabs (as close to the center as possible, guided by your marking), through the bumper. Pic with holes drilled and grill removed:
Remove the grill, install the clips, reinstall the grill and secure. Make sure it’s sitting exactly how you want it and secured nicely at the bottom. If it looks good, pull the grill out again.
20. You should have a very smooth grill in front of you. Other than the mismatched colours, it shouldn’t be too apparent that the grill was ever modified (from the front). Now you just want to get it prepped, wet sand (fine grit, 600/800+) every part of the grill you intend on painting. I only painted the ‘bars’ and the outer edge.
Then the tedious job of masking the grill. Do it well!
Once done, dry and clean the grill with a micro-fibre cloth, and apply your first coat of primer.
Don’t try to put too much on you’ll be wasting your time anyways, a nice light coat is fine.
This pic is 2 coats, I used up some grey primer I had laying around for the first 2 coats:
21. Inspect the grill once the primer is dry, primer has a tendency to bring out imperfections, so if there are any you should see them now.
I had to apply another epoxy coat because of some little pin-holes that became apparent. (If you have to epoxy again, do it, then repeat the steps for sanding). Wet sand everything again very lightly with a high grit (800+). The primer should fill in any minor scratches.
22. If you’re done with the epoxy and all cutting, it’s time for your primer coats.
Apply light, even coats, light wet sanding and drying/cleaning with microfiber cloth in-between each coat.
Don’t rush it and try to apply too much, or paint before the previous coat has cured, these are the most common mistakes made in DIY paint jobs.
After you’ve got some good coats on (I put on 5) let it cure overnight (around 8 hours should be ok, most recommend 24 hours but I think that’s ridiculous.
02-14-2011, 10:04 AM
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23. Once your primer coats are done, light wet sanding again, (800+, 1000 or slightly higher preferred).
Again microfiber cloth, then first base coat. You have the option of putting on a base coat and a clear coat after.
If you decide to clear coat, remember the clear will bring a shine to it, so don’t put on Gloss Black paint then put a clear coat on that. If you want shine, put on flat black and hi-shine clear coat.
I chose Satin Black Trim paint only. Paint it whatever colour tickles your fancy, if you don’t mind masking it off you can always repaint. Apply at least 3 coats, very light wet sand in between coats.
My grill after this step (chose not to clearcoat):
If applying clear coat, wait 24 hours, then wet sand and apply. Wait longer between clear coats than you would for regular paint, this allows you to gauge the shine, because it changes as it cures. Stop when you’ve achieved the shine you desire.
24. Install the grill, you now want to install the top clips. This is pretty simple, just find a good clamping location at the top that’s inconspicuous, mark it, cut the grill hole out just enough so the clip will fit in, test fit and then remove grill, hang on tight to the clips. (I used 2 clips)
25. Install your bumper (if you removed it).
Install the brackets you made out of the OEM bracket (if you haven’t already done this.)
You have the ability to tweak the lines of the bumper a bit by moving these brackets slightly, so if something is off, you can correct it a bit.
You do not have this much flexibility with the stock set up (one bracket).
26. Attempt grill install. You will probably have to trim the grill to allow for the hood release arm. I fretted about this, thinking you’d see it, you won’t, just make a clean cut. You’ll actually use this cut-out to access the latch, it’s pretty tough to get at it otherwise.
27. Install your grill, you’re done!
I used a ratchet ting 7/16” wrench on mine it worked great, depending on the location you used that may not work for you, but at least your grill is still removable! Don’t forget the two clips at the top, if you don’t use these, the trim edge will ‘bow’ a bit, and your hood may hit slightly when closing.
Again microfiber cloth, then first base coat. You have the option of putting on a base coat and a clear coat after.
If you decide to clear coat, remember the clear will bring a shine to it, so don’t put on Gloss Black paint then put a clear coat on that. If you want shine, put on flat black and hi-shine clear coat.
I chose Satin Black Trim paint only. Paint it whatever colour tickles your fancy, if you don’t mind masking it off you can always repaint. Apply at least 3 coats, very light wet sand in between coats.
My grill after this step (chose not to clearcoat):
If applying clear coat, wait 24 hours, then wet sand and apply. Wait longer between clear coats than you would for regular paint, this allows you to gauge the shine, because it changes as it cures. Stop when you’ve achieved the shine you desire.
24. Install the grill, you now want to install the top clips. This is pretty simple, just find a good clamping location at the top that’s inconspicuous, mark it, cut the grill hole out just enough so the clip will fit in, test fit and then remove grill, hang on tight to the clips. (I used 2 clips)
25. Install your bumper (if you removed it).
Install the brackets you made out of the OEM bracket (if you haven’t already done this.)
You have the ability to tweak the lines of the bumper a bit by moving these brackets slightly, so if something is off, you can correct it a bit.
You do not have this much flexibility with the stock set up (one bracket).
26. Attempt grill install. You will probably have to trim the grill to allow for the hood release arm. I fretted about this, thinking you’d see it, you won’t, just make a clean cut. You’ll actually use this cut-out to access the latch, it’s pretty tough to get at it otherwise.
27. Install your grill, you’re done!
I used a ratchet ting 7/16” wrench on mine it worked great, depending on the location you used that may not work for you, but at least your grill is still removable! Don’t forget the two clips at the top, if you don’t use these, the trim edge will ‘bow’ a bit, and your hood may hit slightly when closing.
The final pics look fantastic.
02-14-2011, 01:15 PM
#12
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Thank you, Thank you..
It looks much nicer now I wet sanded it and waxed it, plus washed the car.
Not bad for no previous body work experience eh?
I fought a bit about posting this, being so unique is something I love, but the .ORG has helped me so much in the past it's the least I can do.
Anyone with questions feel free to ask, I didn't go crazy in-depth, this DIY is long enough as it is. I can clarify anything mentioned.
-Matt
It looks much nicer now I wet sanded it and waxed it, plus washed the car.
Not bad for no previous body work experience eh?
I fought a bit about posting this, being so unique is something I love, but the .ORG has helped me so much in the past it's the least I can do.
Anyone with questions feel free to ask, I didn't go crazy in-depth, this DIY is long enough as it is. I can clarify anything mentioned.
-Matt
Last edited by TunerMaxima3000; 02-14-2011 at 01:18 PM.
Looks amazing, great work.
02-15-2011, 08:54 AM
#16
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Thanks for the compliments. I am contemplating a colour change on the grill, I'm impatiently waiting to install my rims first though.
02-17-2012, 12:54 AM
#24
damnnnnn, all that work just for a f***en grille!? hahah jk, it looks so dope.. i'm going to attempt this real soon, lots of props to tunermax for first: having the ***** to do this.. and second: posting every bit of detail on this DIY.. you're the man!
02-17-2012, 08:01 AM
#26
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I'm in Canada shipping would negate any benefit. I'm also not intersted in the work, but appreciate the offer.
You can though, buy them pre-made this way. Search "C-Mod" grill on ebay or on here to find some answers. They go for reasonable prices and have good reviews for the most part.
You can though, buy them pre-made this way. Search "C-Mod" grill on ebay or on here to find some answers. They go for reasonable prices and have good reviews for the most part.
02-18-2012, 09:34 PM
#28
I'm in Canada shipping would negate any benefit. I'm also not intersted in the work, but appreciate the offer.
You can though, buy them pre-made this way. Search "C-Mod" grill on ebay or on here to find some answers. They go for reasonable prices and have good reviews for the most part.
You can though, buy them pre-made this way. Search "C-Mod" grill on ebay or on here to find some answers. They go for reasonable prices and have good reviews for the most part.
02-18-2012, 09:54 PM
#29
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The burger is too big, but it's removal really makes the front too bland IMO. Just something to consider, there's a ton of threads here for you to view both options.
Your car isn't listed in your profile though, I hope you have a 02/03?
02-19-2012, 08:29 AM
#30
The only downfall IMO to those Cmod grills is they don't have the vertical fins that the stock Grill does, which makes it look weird. Add that to the Huge missing burger and I just don't think it works on the car.
The burger is too big, but it's removal really makes the front too bland IMO. Just something to consider, there's a ton of threads here for you to view both options.
Your car isn't listed in your profile though, I hope you have a 02/03?
The burger is too big, but it's removal really makes the front too bland IMO. Just something to consider, there's a ton of threads here for you to view both options.
Your car isn't listed in your profile though, I hope you have a 02/03?
09-20-2012, 09:44 AM
#32
phew! that was a pain in the *** to do but it was well worth it, thank you very much tunermax for the write up.. you're my hero man! hehe
here's my finished product
far away it looks good, up close it looks like ****. lol.. i didn't do a very good job on smoothing out the epoxy before painting plus i didn't wet sand after the clear coat, but all in all i'm pretty happy with this grille mod
here's my finished product
far away it looks good, up close it looks like ****. lol.. i didn't do a very good job on smoothing out the epoxy before painting plus i didn't wet sand after the clear coat, but all in all i'm pretty happy with this grille mod
Last edited by picnik99; 09-20-2012 at 09:59 AM.
09-20-2012, 10:55 AM
#33
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kudos! Finallys omeone tried it.
Can you take a picture from the side? Looks like it's sticking out?
I'll be honest, it does look a touch rough in the pics but that's just the 3D effect it seems to have, not sure if it's just the pictures or that it IS actually sticking out a bit
Either way, bravo dude!
Can you take a picture from the side? Looks like it's sticking out?
I'll be honest, it does look a touch rough in the pics but that's just the 3D effect it seems to have, not sure if it's just the pictures or that it IS actually sticking out a bit
Either way, bravo dude!
09-20-2012, 11:29 AM
#34
Yea, the grille is sticking out quite a bit at the bottom because I cut into the bumper a little too much so now there is no place for me to secure the bottom part of the grille to (other than the styrofoam bumper reinforcer). Man, how did you get yours to fit so flush? I'll have to take some close up pictures in a little bit to show you my dilema
09-20-2012, 03:10 PM
#36
here ya go, i hope you have a strong stomache cuz this **** is way ugly.
If it push the bottom in with force then it looks way more flush but the problem is that i can't make it stay like that because i have no place to clip it onto.
If it push the bottom in with force then it looks way more flush but the problem is that i can't make it stay like that because i have no place to clip it onto.
Last edited by picnik99; 09-20-2012 at 03:13 PM.
09-21-2012, 12:12 PM
#38
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Location: Atlanta
Posts: 1,861
Yikes....
I have a better solution... Buy my grille for 6k and I'll throw in the rest of the car for FREE. There's a new 2012 Pathfinder I want for 23k that sitting on the lot.
I have a better solution... Buy my grille for 6k and I'll throw in the rest of the car for FREE. There's a new 2012 Pathfinder I want for 23k that sitting on the lot.
Last edited by UGAd13; 09-21-2012 at 12:24 PM.