sticking gas pedal!
#6
On my other car, the cables were worn which caused them to act up and make the car go into cruise control all the time and the gas would stick. The last time it happened, it almost killed me.
#8
The Toyota thing has been re-iterated recently as being directly related to the pedal itself getting stuck under improperly installed (or wrong matt installed) floor matts...particularly all weather matts. This was determined by NASA (went through every line of Toyota programming), whom the government assigned to investigate the issue.
I recently posted a similar thread but regarding 5.5gens given my pedal had got stuck beneath my all weather matt several times.
Although I don't believe the OP's issue is matt related, I did want to clarify the Toyata issue as being non-mechanical and non-electronic AND very much can affect our cars as well!
I recently posted a similar thread but regarding 5.5gens given my pedal had got stuck beneath my all weather matt several times.
Although I don't believe the OP's issue is matt related, I did want to clarify the Toyata issue as being non-mechanical and non-electronic AND very much can affect our cars as well!
#9
in my case, when i step on the accelerator the pedal gets stuck and doesnt move unless i put a lot of pressure on the pedal for it to finally move. i thought it was the butterfly in the throttle body but i cleaned the hell out of it and theres like not one piece of gunk in there.
#14
hmm i believe our problems are slightly different..my car doesnt have the toyota problem where the gas pedal gets stuck when you take your feet off the pedal and keeps accelerating.
in my case, when i step on the accelerator the pedal gets stuck and doesnt move unless i put a lot of pressure on the pedal for it to finally move. i thought it was the butterfly in the throttle body but i cleaned the hell out of it and theres like not one piece of gunk in there.
in my case, when i step on the accelerator the pedal gets stuck and doesnt move unless i put a lot of pressure on the pedal for it to finally move. i thought it was the butterfly in the throttle body but i cleaned the hell out of it and theres like not one piece of gunk in there.
#15
#17
^Yup.
Mine has been doing this since I bought it, sticks 60% of the time, only on initial pressure. Cleaning the TB gets rid of it temporarily (at least it did last time I did it).
I guessed it was a cable, I haven't bothered to look at it yet. I need to stop doing mods and fix some actual problems
Mine has been doing this since I bought it, sticks 60% of the time, only on initial pressure. Cleaning the TB gets rid of it temporarily (at least it did last time I did it).
I guessed it was a cable, I haven't bothered to look at it yet. I need to stop doing mods and fix some actual problems
#21
Toyota had two instances of recalls, one was with the floor mats and the other was with the friction material in the pedal itself. It was designed to give more feel in the pedal since there is almost no resistance with the drive by wire throttle, and eventually they figured out that this "fake resistance" can eventually cause the pedal to just get stuck as the material wears out.
From the Toyota website:
"The issue involves a friction device in the pedal designed to provide the proper “feel” by adding resistance and making the pedal steady and stable. This friction device includes a “shoe” that rubs against an adjoining surface during normal pedal operation. Due to the materials used, wear and environmental conditions, these surfaces may, over time, begin to stick and release instead of operating smoothly. In some cases, friction could increase to a point that the pedal is slow to return to the idle position or, in rare cases, the pedal sticks, leaving the throttle partially open."
Why people didn't just shift into neutral or turn the car off still boggles my mind...
#22
One thing you need to check before telling Mechanic(or he'll just charge you), is Idle screw on throttle body. You may need to just turn screw clockwise by one full turn. I had similar issue, but found that nut on my idle screw was gone. So, buttefly plate by idle screw was sticking on screw itself. So, figured that idle screw was out so much that butterfly would close completely and gunk around butterfly would cause it to stick. Cleaning throttle body didnt help much. By turning idle screw you may leave Butterfly open by less than a milimeter, but works great in my case. before diagnosing this, stealership wanted to remove entire throttle body and you know the rest with the cost. I'd rather leave with my butterfly open by less than a mili(even if thats a case.)
here is the pic I found under 4th gen maxima. Adjustment screw here seems to be at bottom of the throttle body when you look from top of the throttle body on car, but on 01 adjustment screw is at top of the body so easily adjustable.
here is the pic I found under 4th gen maxima. Adjustment screw here seems to be at bottom of the throttle body when you look from top of the throttle body on car, but on 01 adjustment screw is at top of the body so easily adjustable.
Last edited by ColdRain; 02-14-2011 at 07:33 AM.
#24
hmm i believe our problems are slightly different..my car doesnt have the toyota problem where the gas pedal gets stuck when you take your feet off the pedal and keeps accelerating.
in my case, when i step on the accelerator the pedal gets stuck and doesnt move unless i put a lot of pressure on the pedal for it to finally move. i thought it was the butterfly in the throttle body but i cleaned the hell out of it and theres like not one piece of gunk in there.
in my case, when i step on the accelerator the pedal gets stuck and doesnt move unless i put a lot of pressure on the pedal for it to finally move. i thought it was the butterfly in the throttle body but i cleaned the hell out of it and theres like not one piece of gunk in there.
Anyway, just pointing out what was already mentioned is plausible...
#25
One thing you need to check before telling Mechanic(or he'll just charge you), is Idle screw on throttle body. You may need to just turn screw clockwise by one full turn. I had similar issue, but found that nut on my idle screw was gone. So, buttefly plate by idle screw was sticking on screw itself. So, figured that idle screw was out so much that butterfly would close completely and gunk around butterfly would cause it to stick. Cleaning throttle body didnt help much. By turning idle screw you may leave Butterfly open by less than a milimeter, but works great in my case. before diagnosing this, stealership wanted to remove entire throttle body and you know the rest with the cost. I'd rather leave with my butterfly open by less than a mili(even if thats a case.)
here is the pic I found under 4th gen maxima. Adjustment screw here seems to be at bottom of the throttle body when you look from top of the throttle body on car, but on 01 adjustment screw is at top of the body so easily adjustable.
here is the pic I found under 4th gen maxima. Adjustment screw here seems to be at bottom of the throttle body when you look from top of the throttle body on car, but on 01 adjustment screw is at top of the body so easily adjustable.
I turned my idle screw in a turn today, and no more sticking pedal!
It's of note that my jam nut was present, everything was set fine before I touched it, but it was sticking under initial pressure.
I also have a higher idle now (obviously).
One more difference, I will not be 'calling it fixed',
I ordered the TB gasket today it'll be in tomorrow, which means when the little man goes to bed tomorrow night I'll be pulling the TB to find out what's going on. And clean it thoroughly. I'm going to do a much needed MAFS cleaning too.
I'm hoping I can resolve it without pulling the TB, but we'll see.
EDIT: Contrary to my belief, along with many other's, this does not seem to be an issue with the cable. I will verify that of course after my inspection/repair tomorrow.
Last edited by TunerMaxima3000; 02-16-2011 at 12:36 PM.
#27
#28
I think normally metric threads work in 4mm differences. I can't say if that is the same.
ie.
10mm head = 6mm thread
8mm head = 4mm thread, etc.
P.S. that nut is an 8mm 'head' (the socket you put on.
This is not a set in stone rule just a fairly normal guess. You're best to try the dealer, or go to a hardware store and buy a bunch of metric nuts around that size, and just try them.... they won't cost you more than $3 for a whole bunch of them
ie.
10mm head = 6mm thread
8mm head = 4mm thread, etc.
P.S. that nut is an 8mm 'head' (the socket you put on.
This is not a set in stone rule just a fairly normal guess. You're best to try the dealer, or go to a hardware store and buy a bunch of metric nuts around that size, and just try them.... they won't cost you more than $3 for a whole bunch of them
#30
I think normally metric threads work in 4mm differences. I can't say if that is the same.
ie.
10mm head = 6mm thread
8mm head = 4mm thread, etc.
P.S. that nut is an 8mm 'head' (the socket you put on.
This is not a set in stone rule just a fairly normal guess. You're best to try the dealer, or go to a hardware store and buy a bunch of metric nuts around that size, and just try them.... they won't cost you more than $3 for a whole bunch of them
ie.
10mm head = 6mm thread
8mm head = 4mm thread, etc.
P.S. that nut is an 8mm 'head' (the socket you put on.
This is not a set in stone rule just a fairly normal guess. You're best to try the dealer, or go to a hardware store and buy a bunch of metric nuts around that size, and just try them.... they won't cost you more than $3 for a whole bunch of them
#31
Its supposedly 8 mm, I took the screw to Lowe's and HD's around town, but none of them seem to carry exact fit. They do have 8mm nut, but its not just threading correctly. I was able to find nut with some silicon coating on one side of thread and it seems to stick for me on screw.
Take it to a bolt/nut supplier like 'Spaenaur' or 'Bolt and Nut' or 'Huron Fasteners' something. Google 'bolt and nut' in your area.
A true hardware/fastener store will have something, it may be a machine screw thread.
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