Klunking noise from suspension....who wants to throw the next dart.
#1
Klunking noise from suspension....who wants to throw the next dart.
changed struts, bushings (new lca's with Energy Suspns), brakes (routine), cv's. Who wants to throw the next dart? Klunking is driving me friggen nuts. Does seem to be lessen while driving (as opposed to coasting).
thanks for any suggestions...
g
2000 SE, auto, 233K stock.
thanks for any suggestions...
g
2000 SE, auto, 233K stock.
#3
changed struts, bushings (new lca's with Energy Suspns), brakes (routine), cv's. Who wants to throw the next dart? Klunking is driving me friggen nuts. Does seem to be lessen while driving (as opposed to coasting).
thanks for any suggestions...
g
2000 SE, auto, 233K stock.
thanks for any suggestions...
g
2000 SE, auto, 233K stock.
#4
i read in many of the "klunk" threads that it could possibly be the upper motor mounts. my I35 has the klunk everyone hates. i've changed a few suspension parts but nothing solved the issue. only thing left to do is lca bushings from energy suspension. i don't exactly know how motor mounts would cause the klunk but what the hell. i'll be doing it soon
#6
The upper passenger side Motor mount is notorious for sounding like a suspension item but it's not....small bumps (ripples) seem to exaggerate the mount to sound like a bad strut mount.....Get a big screwdriver/out and pry @ it or call me I'll check it out for you Junglee Z
#7
Where do you live G ? Here in the northeast my 2000 has major rust problems. The radiator support separated from the center beam and was making some srange sounds, not too safe either. My 02 se looks like it spent about a year submerged in salt water, oil pan already had to be replaced but I did some undercoating and rustproofing, hopefully will help. Also could be motor mounts as stated above. I suck at darts btw
#8
Don't suppose you've ruled out the exhaust? If your engine torque mounts are getting sloppy, the added play as the engine rocks can sometimes cause the exhaust to knock against the frame when you hit just the right resonance. That was the indicator that led me to replace the torque mount bushings a couple years ago.
Last edited by Rochester; 01-23-2011 at 05:08 AM.
#9
+3 on the pass motor mount. I had a squeak and light klumking sound. Got on the pass side and bounced it up and down and the noise is my pass side mount. WD40d it and the squeak went away but the klunk is still present. Not gonna attempt a fix until spring since it is in the single digits today and future.
Is there a ES replacement for the pas motor mount?
Is there a ES replacement for the pas motor mount?
#10
Man, that question gets asked a lot.
I'd much rather cut out the originals, powder-coat the mounts, and press in something from ES.
I wonder if ES knows how often someone asks that question?
I'd much rather cut out the originals, powder-coat the mounts, and press in something from ES.
I wonder if ES knows how often someone asks that question?
Last edited by Rochester; 01-23-2011 at 06:26 AM.
#14
changed struts, bushings (new lca's with Energy Suspns), brakes (routine), cv's. Who wants to throw the next dart? Klunking is driving me friggen nuts. Does seem to be lessen while driving (as opposed to coasting).
thanks for any suggestions...
g
2000 SE, auto, 233K stock.
thanks for any suggestions...
g
2000 SE, auto, 233K stock.
#15
Don't suppose you've ruled out the exhaust? If your engine torque mounts are getting sloppy, the added play as the engine rocks can sometimes cause the exhaust to knock against the frame when you hit just the right resonance. That was the indicator that led me to replace the torque mount bushings a couple years ago.
#17
So... where are you now with this problem?
#18
Supporting Maxima.org Member
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233K
At 233k I'd have to guess your engine mounts are due for a refresh. I just changed the torque mounts, and will do the passenger mount later this week. I got the set of 4 EBay mounts(auto), 3 of which I can use being a manual.
My old mounts seemed fine visually, but the front one was separated in 2 pieces, and the back one was close behind...on a car with 110K miles. I'm expecting the passenger mount to be shot too, as I'm still getting some clunk, but it seems to be localized on that side now. The vibration issue I had on acceleration is now resolved with the 2 new mounts. I'll also be changing the swaybar endlinks for Moogs, which are beefier than stock (my previous Max's klunk was eliminated this way) as well as the swaybar bushings (ES) because I figure they're due after almost 10 years. Given your mileage I'd get the EBay mounts and change them all, which you can do since you're auto- it's just too common for our cars to have trashed mounts past 100K miles. After that I'd look at the endlinks.
BTW, what djfrestyl said about the radiator support..if you change your mounts, before you remove the crossmember, check the lower radiator support carefully so you don't get a bad surprise.
My old mounts seemed fine visually, but the front one was separated in 2 pieces, and the back one was close behind...on a car with 110K miles. I'm expecting the passenger mount to be shot too, as I'm still getting some clunk, but it seems to be localized on that side now. The vibration issue I had on acceleration is now resolved with the 2 new mounts. I'll also be changing the swaybar endlinks for Moogs, which are beefier than stock (my previous Max's klunk was eliminated this way) as well as the swaybar bushings (ES) because I figure they're due after almost 10 years. Given your mileage I'd get the EBay mounts and change them all, which you can do since you're auto- it's just too common for our cars to have trashed mounts past 100K miles. After that I'd look at the endlinks.
BTW, what djfrestyl said about the radiator support..if you change your mounts, before you remove the crossmember, check the lower radiator support carefully so you don't get a bad surprise.
Last edited by StevieB; 01-25-2011 at 09:03 PM.
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