Anyone use an oil drain valve?
12-30-2010, 06:22 AM
#42
though its not actually standard npt, not all pipe thread is tapered some are actually straight....
in my case i pulled a couple valves out of my lawson bins and found one that fits and does not leak
01-01-2011, 05:12 PM
#44
I did 3 oil changes today in my driveway, and installed the valve on my 5,5 Max.
On a downside,. when I changed the oil in my kids 175,000 mile 1996 Max, the oil came out looking like frothy chocolate milk. See the 4th Gen forum for more on that problem.
Anyway, thought I would post a few photos of how the valve looks installed. It is an easy fix, the same 14mm socket that you use to remove the plug will also install the valve.
Still draining, valve open
Valve closed
The valve protrudes below the oil pan by about 1/2"
On a downside,. when I changed the oil in my kids 175,000 mile 1996 Max, the oil came out looking like frothy chocolate milk. See the 4th Gen forum for more on that problem.
Anyway, thought I would post a few photos of how the valve looks installed. It is an easy fix, the same 14mm socket that you use to remove the plug will also install the valve.
Still draining, valve open
Valve closed
The valve protrudes below the oil pan by about 1/2"
02-09-2011, 08:46 PM
#47
Picked up the S type with the smaller nipple and plastic fitting which includes the 3 foot hose. Everyone who changes their own oil should get one, no more draining oil into a catch pan then pouring into a container to take to the recyclers.
06-09-2011, 12:16 PM
#49
Junior Member
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: CT
Posts: 45
[quote=trooplewis;7862210]For $23, I've been thinking about buying one since I drive 3000+ miles per month so I do about 14 oil changes a year in my driveway.
Any downside to the valve?
What type of oil do you use? Have thought about using synthetic motor oil, that cut your change time in half.
Any downside to the valve?
What type of oil do you use? Have thought about using synthetic motor oil, that cut your change time in half.
06-09-2011, 12:40 PM
#50
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: NYC
Posts: 1,782
06-09-2011, 01:43 PM
#51
Actually the idea of using one of these drain valves with a hose didn't work in my application.
With the hose, the oil did not flow out freely. After trying and trying, I gave up and went back to draining into the catch pan. However, no more copper crush washers. Just open the valve, drain into pan and done.
With the hose, the oil did not flow out freely. After trying and trying, I gave up and went back to draining into the catch pan. However, no more copper crush washers. Just open the valve, drain into pan and done.
06-09-2011, 04:25 PM
#52
Some months later, I'm thinking the valve is somewhat of a waste of money. It does make it easy to get the oil directly into a jug, and you need to have the engine pretty warm ot that takes awhile.
BUT when you remove the oil filter, you still are going to get a big oil spill so you still need a drain pan/container. It just doesn't have as much oil in it as if you drained it all from the start.
BUT when you remove the oil filter, you still are going to get a big oil spill so you still need a drain pan/container. It just doesn't have as much oil in it as if you drained it all from the start.
06-09-2011, 08:09 PM
#53
Some months later, I'm thinking the valve is somewhat of a waste of money. It does make it easy to get the oil directly into a jug, and you need to have the engine pretty warm ot that takes awhile.
BUT when you remove the oil filter, you still are going to get a big oil spill so you still need a drain pan/container. It just doesn't have as much oil in it as if you drained it all from the start.
BUT when you remove the oil filter, you still are going to get a big oil spill so you still need a drain pan/container. It just doesn't have as much oil in it as if you drained it all from the start.
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