dawoo_nj

I know there's a thousand or so brake threads but .... I need a quick answer and it's under 20 degrees in my garage.
So, I removed the rear caliper and I got the C clamp on it. It won't budge!! F#%@$ *****!!! S#%@$!! Understand my frustration.
Anybody got a tip or trick to get this f@$ing thing moving!?!?

And yes ... I am searching now!
OK...what the hell am I supposed to turn the caliper with?

JagerBlunt

iTrader: (1)

where in jersey are you? the rear brakes on your car require a special tool to compress the caliper. I got in my hand, if your not too far ill bring it to you

dawoo_nj

Jager .. I really appreciate it man!!! But, we're not even close!!! I'm in Burlington ... that way south for you!!!

Bugsnt

iTrader: (1)

You can pickup the tool from a Autozone store for $11.99.
Or else get one from Harbor Freight for $7.99.

Good Luck and stay warm.

JagerBlunt

iTrader: (1)

yeah it is a little far, you need to go to autozone and ask the man at the counter for a "brake cube" this thing is a pain in the a$$ there is a better rear brake service tool if you want to spend the money, but anyway there is two dimples on the top of your piston find one of the 6 sides of the cube that fit and turn clockwise till your bottomed out

JagerBlunt

iTrader: (1)

you may also try the tips of needle nose pliers "as per the FSM states"

dawoo_nj

Bugsnt and Jager... thank you both ... I put the car back together because autozone closes at 9 ... so I'll get up in the morning and go back over before work.

maxima dude

hopefully yours dont seeze up on you...our rear calipers are known to do that

dawoo_nj

Well, I'm having a hell of a morning...so the brake cube starts to work then "snap" ...WTF ... one of the nubs on the corner breaks .... wow ... so I try the needle nose pliers ..ha ha .. funny .. no way in hell!!! so ...... I'm stuck ... so I'm going to walk it around to a garage and see if they'll depress it for me.

JagerBlunt

iTrader: (1)

i would just spring the extra cash its like 30 bucks from harbor freight
http://www.harborfreight.com/caliper...kes-40732.html
mine is a snap-on and like 5 times the price if i knew it was this cheap i woulda told you to get this insted it should work fine for the DIYer

Lovemyser

DUDE!

I Just had this SAME problem. It was my emergency brake cable. It was getting water in it and freezing. Check that, SPECIFICALLY where the cable hooks to the caliper. There is a tiny boot on that that keeps crap from getting in it.

Also, read through my thread here first: http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...ine-stuck.html

ampire

iTrader: (12)

The calipers have these metal pins. They are packed with grease and have rubber sleeves. If they leak the grease out, water gets in, rust and corrosion and in the winter, freezing, will cause the brake to seize up.

dawoo_nj

Took it around the corner and they couldn't get it either..... they used the tool you're talking about Jager. It did move slightly when I used the cube and when they tried their tool.
And Lovemyser .. I read your thread last night. I'll re-read it to make sure I didn't miss anything.
But my problem wasn't that the brakes were sticking. I came home Monday night and I thought it was a thunderstorm. LOL! ..But it was my driver side rear pad grinding on the rotor.

Ampire ... can you go into detail about these pins?

Nopike

iTrader: (2)

I had a similar issue with my 4th gen. Considering how much trouble you are having with those. You should probably consider replacing the rear calipers. I could usually turn mine with needle nose pliers. Once they became frozen even the special tool would not turn them and it was time to replace. Don't know about Jersey area but Advance Auto had best prices for rebuilt calipers. Of course you will need to bleed that system after you replace them.

JagerBlunt

iTrader: (1)

if he was taking his calipers around to shops to see if they can do it he would have to bleed the system anyways.

dawoo_nj

Just ordered a new caliper from autozone but it has to be delivered ..not until 2:30 ... so instead of walking (45 minutes round trip) .. I've decided to put my bike back together. Next read how to bleed the brakes.
Oh yea .. it's snow flurries today!!

homeyclaus

iTrader: (1)

When you bleed the maxima brakes, either disconnect the negative terminal of the battery or pull the ABS relay per the FSM.

It's easiest to do with a friend and a bleeder kit. But it's easy.

dawoo_nj

Ok .. after reading some bleeder threads .. I got to be an a$$hole .. so I took the caliper off and hung the brake line in the wheel well .. now I got brake fluid all over the ground. And it's coming from both sides of the rear.

MizzMaxine

iTrader: (4)

Wish I read this thread when I changed my brakes. Its not fun with the needle nose all by itself.

dawoo_nj

Replaced the caliper and I have pressure in the brake pedal. Do I still need to bleed the brakes? I don't have any friends in the area to assist and I don't have a bleeder hose.
Edit:
OK ... u must bleed the brakes!!

Bugsnt

iTrader: (1)

man... I feel for you.
This has turned into an ordeal for you.

burtonmaina

iTrader: (1)

I had a problem with my driver side rear where it would remain compressed even after letting go of the brake pedal. You can imagine my horror driving on the highway thinking i just had a strong head wind and that why the car was not as agile. Never the less, I pulled over only to realize that the brakes where so hot there were a small whistling.

story short, the rotor and pads were toast and the mechanic told me it was a ceased slider pin.

What surprised me though was he said grease is no good and lightly oiled it yet Nissan had grease in the slider holes. Has anyone ever heard of that?