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safc install and initial setup (NmexMax, Moncef and Tech gurus)

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Old 11-25-2010, 11:57 PM
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safc install and initial setup (NmexMax, Moncef and Tech gurus)

Hey guys, i have some questions since im gonna be getting the SAFC this weekend.
Questions from the threads ive read.
One of the threads i think stated by The owens family is not to connec tthe grounds of the SAFC to the grounds on the ECU. Is this true or can you hook the grounds to the ECU grounds?
http://maxima.theowensfamily.com/ecu.asp

Another thing ive read is that you cant really tune in closed loop. My AFR reads on average 14.3-15.5 on a constant pedal. So if im running 2500 constantly at maybe 20% throttle it will swing from 15.5 down to 13.9. What im wondering is can i tune that richer at that Th pos. or am i only able to tune say only once i go past a certain (Ex.-40%) Th Pos. and certain RPM?

Im stumped on the Lvt-Hvt and Hvt-Lvt. What should i make the crossover i guess. Ive seen ppl state 39% and 40%, 20% and 80% and so on.

Also at these Hi and Lo Throttle settings it states enter the corrction value. The manual shows an example of
Lo Thr at 10% ..Correction value +3%
Hi Thr at 50%..Correction Value -1%
Im still trying to figure out what the correction value means and what i would do to get at what my Max would want for a correction value?

Also

So far from reading these threads and the manual, ive gathered this:
If im tunning at NE2- 2000RPM, and my AFR reads say 14.9 or so. I would add fuel until i get my AFR in the 12.8-13.3 range or whatever is best.

Ive got a bunch more questions since this is my first piggyback. And yes i have been reading all the old threads i can get a hold of by Jime, SR20, NmexMax and such. Can anyone give me some hints on how to start getting my initial settings and what to play with to get the AFRs i need
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Old 11-26-2010, 12:11 AM
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Originally Posted by jeff5347
Hey guys, i have some questions since im gonna be getting the SAFC this weekend.
Questions from the threads ive read.
One of the threads i think stated by The owens family is not to connec tthe grounds of the SAFC to the grounds on the ECU. Is this true or can you hook the grounds to the ECU grounds?
http://maxima.theowensfamily.com/ecu.asp

Ground according to the owens family since that is quoted directly from the Apexi manual.

Another thing ive read is that you cant really tune in closed loop. My AFR reads on average 14.3-15.5 on a constant pedal. So if im running 2500 constantly at maybe 20% throttle it will swing from 15.5 down to 13.9. What im wondering is can i tune that richer at that Th pos. or am i only able to tune say only once i go past a certain (Ex.-40%) Th Pos. and certain RPM?

You can try to, but the stock ECU is controlling your AFR below 40% throttle anyways, so it's not worth your time.

Im stumped on the Lvt-Hvt and Hvt-Lvt. What should i make the crossover i guess. Ive seen ppl state 39% and 40%, 20% and 80% and so on.

Also at these Hi and Lo Throttle settings it states enter the corrction value. The manual shows an example of
Lo Thr at 10% ..Correction value +3%
Hi Thr at 50%..Correction Value -1%
Im still trying to figure out what the correction value means and what i would do to get at what my Max would want for a correction value?

Correction value means how much fuel you're adding or subtracting. (Otherwise known as how much MAF signal you're adding or subtracting). Leave it at 0% for now.


Also

So far from reading these threads and the manual, ive gathered this:
If im tunning at NE2- 2000RPM, and my AFR reads say 14.9 or so. I would add fuel until i get my AFR in the 12.8-13.3 range or whatever is best.

Ive got a bunch more questions since this is my first piggyback. And yes i have been reading all the old threads i can get a hold of by Jime, SR20, NmexMax and such. Can anyone give me some hints on how to start getting my initial settings and what to play with to get the AFRs i need

Initial settings. Check this link to get a feeling for everything the SAFC does and how you can utilize it.
MAF - Hot wire, 4 in 4 out.
http://apexi-usa.com/content/pdf6118.pdf.

I'd suggest setting up your throttle points at low 20% high 50% and then tune only the high throttle, because that's all you need to tune.

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Old 11-26-2010, 12:25 AM
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Man what are you doing up late.. haah Working overnight like me?
See the thing i was reading is The Owens states do not connec tthe grounds to the ECU but the SAFC manual states "Be sure to connect the brown wire CLOSER to the ECU than the black wire. Failure to do so may result in improper product operation and damage."

Another thing i was wondering is i have my BBMAF made and all set to go. Im not gonna put it on til some time later once i can figure this out with the stock MAF. But i was wondering this. I knowthe larger MAF makes the engine lean such as in 16-17AFR. I also knowthe settings for this need to be 1 in and 17 out. But since the stock ECU controls the AFR below 40%, how do you adjust the AFR to be Stoich or lower with the SAFC such as NMex has. And if i add the BBMAF later that would mean even if im at 20% Thr and at 2k i would need to add fuel to keep from being lean. Im assuming that would be possible or the BBMAF would have been tried and thrown out if you could adjust for that.
Guess im wondering how that works.
Moncef, That link is for the SAFCII, would that still apply somewhat to the SAFCI which i will be getting?
Thanks MAn
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Old 11-26-2010, 12:40 AM
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Nah man Oh my bad, I didn't read properly. Go according to the Apexi manual.

If you have to make minor adjustments in closed loop due to the BBMAF, go ahead, since the stock ECU isn't reading the extra air from the BBMAF. So just tune your low throttle setup accordingly.

http://apexi-usa.com/content/pdf6135.pdf This link is for SAFC1.
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Old 11-26-2010, 12:47 AM
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Another question.. man your gonna hate. On that lvt-hvt and hvt-lvt i would set it at 39% and 40%. What would be the difference/ happen if i set it to say 20% / 80% or 20%/ 21%


im guessing here. At say 20% thr and 2k i wouldnt notice any power differece from not have the SAFc?

Also kinda hard to answer i guess but what would i be looking at in numbers gained by what i have for mods listed in my sig and my AFR being at 15 or so right now?

Last edited by jeff5347; 11-26-2010 at 12:54 AM.
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Old 11-26-2010, 01:02 AM
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The difference you make by changing the high/low throttle points just changes when the SAFC will reference your high throttle map or low throttle map.

So if your high throttle is set at 40% and you're at 40% throttle or higher, it will make corrections based on the high throttle map. If your low throttle is set at 30% and you're below 30% throttle, the SAFC will make corrections based on the low throttle map.

You won't notice any difference in power below 40% throttle using an SAFC, since the closed loop operation is unchanged, unless you're changing timing which requires a different kind of piggyback.

I'd say you could pick up at least 10whp by tuning the SAFC, what you can do is get some of the bigger 350Z injectors, this will cause you to pull more fuel via the SAFC to achieve your desired AFR, and the more fuel you pull, the more timing you gain (since you're bending the MAF signal) which is a key for making more power.
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Old 11-26-2010, 03:11 AM
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is this possible
http://www.nissanclub.com/forums/200...u-upgrade.html






































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Old 11-26-2010, 03:47 AM
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Ok ok heres another question. Since i run lean now, and i need to add fuel to get it to a good AFR #, ive read doing that and as you stated it retards the time as leaning it adds timing. If i add fuel and it retards the timing is that negating all the SAFC is supposed to do. Basically will the retarded timing but correct AFR make it lose power or just stay the same?
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Old 11-26-2010, 07:07 AM
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You'll gain power in spite of the minor loss in timing since you're correcting your AFR.
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Old 11-26-2010, 10:39 AM
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I've always grounded my SAFC/VAFC installs to the ECU. Never had any problems with that other than the one time I carelessly made a terrible splice/connection.



Use these for the install by the way. It makes like 182954843x easier.
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Old 11-26-2010, 11:12 AM
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^^^ i thought you had to solder them. If i can use those all the better. Essential you havent had any problems with those connectors?
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Old 11-26-2010, 11:59 AM
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What? Really? You can use those? Wouldn't soldering give a better connection? I would assume that for instruments like these, it'd be better to solder so as to get precision readings with less chance of inaccuracy.
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Old 11-26-2010, 12:51 PM
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By all means, if you can solder the afc in, please do. But soldering in that cramped space with that jungle of wires is not my speacialty. I've tried time and time again and I just cant do it. I saw a friend use these connectors to splice injector clips for a 00vi swap a while back and they worked flawlessly. Since then I've been using them in places where I cant get the soldering gun to reach.

I'm not telling you guys not to solder the connections by any means. I'm just illustrating what works best for me.
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Old 11-26-2010, 01:37 PM
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essentila, im assuming these work fine as well./ As long as you have a good solid metal to metal connection you cant get better than than without melting the wires together. Hey just curious on your setup. What are you running for bolt ons. Assuming you have the SAFC I or II since you came in here. Did you have to lean or richen your AFR. Did you notice a difference when you installed yours?
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Old 11-26-2010, 01:57 PM
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The wires don't know if they're soldered or not. Just make sure to use a secure method. I used a razor blade to strip away some insulation on the ecu wires and twisted the vafc wires around that. Electrical tape and tip ties to hold the bundle in place, or shrink wrap and a heat gun. I've had my ground wires grounded to the ecu wires for over a year now. No problems for me. Ground is ground. Again, the wires or the unit won't know the difference. I have my high throttle set at 75% and only tuned that.
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Old 11-26-2010, 04:19 PM
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Originally Posted by jeff5347
essentila, im assuming these work fine as well./ As long as you have a good solid metal to metal connection you cant get better than than without melting the wires together. Hey just curious on your setup. What are you running for bolt ons. Assuming you have the SAFC I or II since you came in here. Did you have to lean or richen your AFR. Did you notice a difference when you installed yours?
The most important thing is that the connection is solid and secure like you mentioned. My bolt ons are, intake, headers, cat delete, cattman muffler. I'm untuned at the moment. My vafc is connected but I have no corrections input as of now.
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Old 11-26-2010, 06:10 PM
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Another question for u guys. Im gonna need an exhaust come the spring since mine is basically stock minus the test pipe and resonator delete and muffler. If i get rid if the stock 2" piping and go 2.5" from the cat back...will that richen things up as well. I know it is not a big deal i guess since i prob wont have headers before then but wondering if just a exhaust upgrade would do anything. Headers will come but not before the exhaust im sure.
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Old 11-26-2010, 07:28 PM
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In my opinion, if your exhaust doesn't NEED to be replaced I would just run what you have with headers. You won't gain too much if you swap what cat-back you have now for a 2.5 inch. With the test pipe you'll need an O2 sim assuming you'll keep the test pipe on. I essentially have a test pipe...It's also my cut-out. The headers+test pipe+stock cat-back sounds and performs great! You'll be a tad louder than me, however, because of your flowmaster muffler.
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Old 11-26-2010, 09:38 PM
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Not that i want to spend more money but i think i might need to get a new exhaust. What i meant to say was it look like crap now. All flaking and rusted. Almost rotted in some places. After this winter i may need it if i get holes coming thru.
What i was wondering if i do change it due to being crapped out.. and if i go larger... which i probably will, will the larger than 2" exhaust change the AFR so going from 2" exhaust to a 2.5 or 2.75" exhaust..will that affect AFR?
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Old 11-26-2010, 09:41 PM
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Go 3". Yes it will affect AFR, it's hard to predict which way it will go though.
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Old 11-26-2010, 09:49 PM
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ok cool thats what i thought but wasnt to sure. Witha 3" will i lose any bottom end. Im prob gonna get a custon exhaust. No SS or anything. Justy aluminized. I called a few palces but they casn only go up to 2.75 with there pipe benders. Gotta look around some more.
I hate u Moncef..hahah now you got me searching for 350z injectors. I think my wife is gonna come find you and silence you hahahah
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Old 11-26-2010, 09:57 PM
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Go 3". You may lose some bottom end off of idle but after 3000 RPM the car will wake up. A lot. Whatever you gotta do get a 3" mandrel bent exhaust, whether it's stainless, aluminized, carbon fiber, titanium, NASA space shuttle material, paper mache.

Hate on she may only silence me if she can catch me in my DEK.
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Old 11-27-2010, 12:41 AM
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Moncef, what sort of times are you posting in that pride of yours?
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Old 11-27-2010, 12:45 AM
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Originally Posted by Eirik
Moncef, what sort of times are you posting in that pride of yours?
Crappy ones. My best time ever (DA corrected) was a 14.60@96mph with a 2.4 60 foot, broken 00VI and street tuned. This was on street tires and some 23lb G35 wheels. I fixed the 00VI setup and tuned it on the dyno, all I have to show for it is a few Mustangs and swapped Hondas, WRXs, and such that I destroyed on "closed courses."

Last edited by MoncefA33; 11-27-2010 at 12:55 AM.
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Old 11-27-2010, 12:49 AM
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Originally Posted by MoncefA33
Go 3". Yes it will affect AFR, it's hard to predict which way it will go though.
Measured My AFR this morning with and without the cone insert.....The previous setup with my Cattman 2.5" Bpipe/Oem Rear muffler....I would stomp the accelerator to WOT and the AFR's enriched to 12.2 and leaned out as to 12.5 to 12.8 (perfect), with the Cone insert installed in my Cattman 3" catback, initial acceleration was 13.2 and would enrichen to 12.2 to 12.4 (a little too rich), without the Cone insert installed(3" Cattman catback), initial acceleration was 13.1 and enriched and stablized around 12.4-12.6 not bad, cruise was 14.6-14.9 in normal driving conditions, part throttle acceleration was 13.7 (a little rich)....may need to tune this beast eventually.......
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Old 11-27-2010, 01:36 AM
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She has a sweet Non turbo 09 Forester so you might be in trouble. hahahah
I was reading some posts and i came across this

From here:http://forums.maxima.org/all-motor/349883-check-out-my-wb02-results.html
post #2
1)I'd aim for 13:1 until you get on a dyno and test what is best for your car, ie best torque.
2)An exhaust leak will add air, which will falsely read lean.
3)During light throttle/cruising, ie closed-loop 02 sensor feedback, the stock ECU targets 14.7:1, so 14-16:1 range is normal. Once you go WOT or make quick throttle changes to accelerate, you go open-loop and the ECU ignores 02s so you should see <14:1, however between 12.5-13.5:1 is best torque AFR supposedly.

So i gather from this if your in 3rd gear and cruising at 1500 or 2k or 25oo and get on the gas, not floor it, but accelerate...that the ECU will go open loop for that time and the SAFC settings take place. Once you continue normal driving the ECU takes back over until you get in the throttle or go WOT. That sounds very exciting as the SAFC has some say under the 4k mark
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Old 11-27-2010, 02:09 AM
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Mean best torque is actually 12.2 and Lean best torque is 12.8 and halfway is 12.5 so I'm in a very good reliable zone. 13.5 will sacriice a little torque but will produce excellent peak-power fuel economy at the cost of about 4 percent power! These are quotes from Bob Norwood in "How to Tune and Modify EMS" (Motorbooks Workshop Books) So what do you mean I might be in trouble? No I'm cruising in 4th and 3rd...I tried both gears! Upon initial acceleration (Not in WOT) it's still in closed loop....
The ecu is only in open loop during cold startup and WOT......
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Old 11-27-2010, 02:20 AM
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nothe Subaru thing was meant for Moncef. So where do we get these inconsistancies of what is or isnt. That post and thread states that up acceleration the ECU goes open for that time and you say it is closed until WOT. So the SAFC is only good for tuning WOT. So if you are running around town at 2k in 3rd gear the engine acts like it doesnt even have a SAFC?
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Old 11-27-2010, 02:53 AM
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Originally Posted by jeff5347
nothe Subaru thing was meant for Moncef. So where do we get these inconsistancies of what is or isnt. That post and thread states that up acceleration the ECU goes open for that time and you say it is closed until WOT. So the SAFC is only good for tuning WOT. So if you are running around town at 2k in 3rd gear the engine acts like it doesnt even have a SAFC?
Which is good, you want Oem driveability,.....I don't have a SAFC/Vafc/Neo but I thought you could change more than just WOT settings.....not sure! But a part throttle operation it's always in closed loop ops. WOT is open loop and cold start....that's it!
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Old 11-27-2010, 04:54 AM
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Originally Posted by essential1
I've always grounded my SAFC/VAFC installs to the ECU. Never had any problems with that other than the one time I carelessly made a terrible splice/connection.



Use these for the install by the way. It makes like 182954843x easier.
While these do make thing alittle easier...these are ALOT easier than fooling with that type of splice connector. Attach the alligator part to the wire to be spliced, then crimp the male connector on the splicing wire, the male in then slides into the alligator clip. This way youre not fumbling trying to hold 3 wires while you crimp.

Here they are:
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Old 11-27-2010, 05:44 AM
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Originally Posted by vastmax
While these do make thing alittle easier...these are ALOT easier than fooling with that type of splice connector. Attach the alligator part to the wire to be spliced, then crimp the male connector on the splicing wire, the male in then slides into the alligator clip. This way youre not fumbling trying to hold 3 wires while you crimp.

Here they are:


Show me where you get these NOW!!!

really, i've never seen them before and I want some
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Old 11-27-2010, 02:28 PM
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Originally Posted by essential1


Show me where you get these NOW!!!

really, i've never seen them before and I want some
I know radioshack sells them at quite the markup, like 3 for $1.99 or something like that.

Here's a 50-pack for $7.65:
(22-18 AWG) http://www.electricalhub.com/3m-951-3m-scotchlok

(18-14 AWG) http://www.electricalhub.com/3m-952-3m-scotchlok

you'll also need the male spade terminals found here:
(22-18 AWG) http://www.electricalhub.com/etc-aa5...ly-insulated-2

(18-14 AWG) http://www.electricalhub.com/3m-72m2...ed-disconnects
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Old 11-29-2010, 05:30 AM
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Thanks alot. I really appreciate it man.
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Old 11-29-2010, 09:47 AM
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Ok so i got the safc in. All is in working order, cleared everything so its all at zero. Im wondering 2 things. First i read a few places on the in (4) and out (4)
is for tuning and then have it on 1 in 1 out to drive it. So do i put it at the 1 or the 4s to be able to drive. Other question is on thr pos. I went thru manual and found it no where but i thought i read in a post that you have to set the throttle. Meaning.. have the car ing on but not running and then you press the pedal to the floor so it knows when your at 0 and 100% throttle?
How do i get to the menu to set the throttle so it nows where i am correctly?
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Old 11-29-2010, 10:56 AM
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Originally Posted by jeff5347
Ok so i got the safc in. All is in working order, cleared everything so its all at zero. Im wondering 2 things. First i read a few places on the in (4) and out (4)
is for tuning and then have it on 1 in 1 out to drive it. So do i put it at the 1 or the 4s to be able to drive. Other question is on thr pos. I went thru manual and found it no where but i thought i read in a post that you have to set the throttle. Meaning.. have the car ing on but not running and then you press the pedal to the floor so it knows when your at 0 and 100% throttle?
How do i get to the menu to set the throttle so it nows where i am correctly?
The IN/OUT settings stay at 1in 1 out if you have stock MAF. You leave this alone for as long as you have a stock sized MAF in. (4 in 4 out works also. And for me, as long as the numbers are the same, it works) It has nothing to do with tunning the car. Just leave it alone unless your going with a larger MAF housing.

The throttle learn procedure is simple. Turn the the key to the ON position and keep your foot off the pedal for about 10 sec. You should see the throttle % be at 0% in the monitor mode. Press the throttle all the way to the floor and it should start calibrating itself. You will see the % go up from (example) 89% all the way to 100%. Keep the throttle open till it reaches 100%. Now its calibrated.
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Old 11-29-2010, 11:31 AM
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ok so here is the other things i cant get around

Trying to set my readout In the manual under displap parameters on page 7 it shows
Display Parameter
Afl Thr
Prs Rev
Kar Cor

Mine has the Thr, rev, cor, and Prs but it displays VTi And VTo.
How do i make it so i can read air flow usage

The other thing is i havent set mine to hotwire, karmen Pressure at all cause i cant find that screen. I know i nee to do hotwire but how do i get in to set it

Also Essential, i tried the stepping on the pedal to get it to learn 0 and 100% throttle but i couldnt get it . What screen do i need to be in to do that. The manual does not go into detail on these things.

Thnaks for all the help
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Old 11-29-2010, 03:10 PM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by jeff5347
ok so here is the other things i cant get around

Trying to set my readout In the manual under displap parameters on page 7 it shows
Display Parameter
Afl Thr
Prs Rev
Kar Cor

Mine has the Thr, rev, cor, and Prs but it displays VTi And VTo.
How do i make it so i can read air flow usage

The other thing is i havent set mine to hotwire, karmen Pressure at all cause i cant find that screen. I know i nee to do hotwire but how do i get in to set it

Also Essential, i tried the stepping on the pedal to get it to learn 0 and 100% throttle but i couldnt get it . What screen do i need to be in to do that. The manual does not go into detail on these things.

Thnaks for all the help
If i'm not mistaken, you have to start at [ETC] from the main screen. Then go to [DISP. PARAM.] I think it is. The vafc is different so I'm just going from memory. Here you can change between prs, afl, etc.

For the throttle, just go to the monitor screen and select throttle and monitor it like that while you are doing the relearn. Just like if you were monitoring throttle % while driving.

I have no idea about karmen pressure.
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