kbohip

I bought my car used with a bit over 55k miles on it. I now have 105k miles. It does and always has burned almost exactly 1 qt. every 1k miles. I've tried many different oil brands and weights, and the problem persists. Currently I'm running Shell Rotella-T 5W-40 synthetic oil in it. It looks to be burning this about the same as all the others. After this I'm giving up and going back to cheap dino 5W-30. The good news is the problem isn't getting any worse and the car is still performing great from what I can see. The power is as good as it's ever been and the gas mileage is still always at 21-22 city/28-30 highway. I don't have a light foot at all either.

The car gets floored at least once a week and probably more. The car might burn less if I drove it real slow but I didn't get a Maxima to drive it like a Yaris. You have to remember the performance at this altitude is reduced by about 18-20% as well. Going OT here but I wonder if that means when I "floor it" at this altitude, I'm only at 80% throttle at sea level?

Regardless of the oil consumption, I still really like this car after all this time. The fact that my payments are over make me like it a lot more too.

SteveB123

iTrader: (2)

Is that figure from Nissan?

Baffler_03se

iTrader: (2)

Bad valve seals (internal to the heads) are the "traditional" way for oil to end up in the chamber for start up oil-smoke. But so far I heaven't read any valve seal issues with VQ's. I'm curious if oil can actually leak past the spark plug threads though.

I replaced my plugs at 60k and the left rear plug was FULL of oil, and the plug boot was ripped apart.. Strangely, at 110k I've yet to have any coil issues even though I know one is always bathed in oil. I've had oil burning issues since new. Seems to be worse in the winter.

Gizm0

iTrader: (1)

So you drove 50k miles with a leaky valve cover seal? Why not replacing the rear valve cover? It's a cheap part...

Child_uv_KoRn

iTrader: (7)

I have an interesting observation.

Recently, I noticed that engine braking especially from high speed or downhill seems to be causing my oil burn. Every day I engine brake down a hill to my apt. I noticed that after the stop signs under mod-heavy accel and while reversing into my parking spot there's a big puff of blue smoke. Sometimes it's huge and thick.

But guess what? There's no smoke (or an unnoticeable amount) any other time while accelerating/WOT.

Baffler_03se

iTrader: (2)

Sounds like you have a clogged PCV valve. You probably have other oild burning issues, but replacing the PCV should make a difference for you.

Child_uv_KoRn

iTrader: (7)

Does it even matter on these engines? I don't give two turds about emissions.

From what I see it doesn't do anything except allow the gasses to be sucked/blown through for emissions. I use a breather on the other end.

Dead VQ35

Hello trooplewis! I have a 2005 Nissan Quest with a VQ35. It ran out of oil 2,000 miles into a 5,400 mile road trip, no oil light, nothing. Oil changed at dealer just before we left. Nursed it back to civilization putting a qt in every 150-200 miles. Dealer says it's toast, they ran cylinder leakage tests. It's the precat/reversion problem of sucking abrasives back into the engine. So says the dealer service manager. You seem to be familiar with this situation.

How far back have people in general been aware of this problem, and when was Nissan first aware of this problem? The VR25DE was having the exact same problem at least as early as 2003 (recall in 2003). Nissan knew about this officially in June of 2009 when they put out a TSB on some VQ35's for the dealers to replace the precat and sweep the sandpaper particles out of the inlet manifold. It didn't mantion anything about letting the owner know that their engine had cancer. Anyway . . .

You said this was well known for a long time, any specifics? BTW, this reversion problem is well known in racing boat engines. Put the exhaust cooling water port too close to the engine and it will get sucked back up, maybe catastrophic failure. I think it's the same deal on the VQ35, just sucking sandpaper grit (aluminum oxide) instead of water. Most engines with valve overlap will experience reversion, i.e., reverse flow of exhaust gases, at some RPM's. Or so I'm told.

Thanks in advance!

crazy97

iTrader: (1)

02/03 Pathfinders are also in this mess.

Dead VQ35

What size engine are they? What do you know about the problem? The recall in 2009 only covered Altima 3.5, Quest, and Maxima. Interesting that the Pathfinder also had a problem. Any info much appreciated!

Eirik

iTrader: (2)

The recall only covered Sentras, I haven't seen any recalls performed on any of the VQ35s for oil-burning or pre-cat problems, just the crank(cam?)shaft position sensor.

This whole thing has stopped making me angry and now just makes me laugh and click to read something else.

Dead VQ35

You are absolutely correct, the 2009 thing was not a recall, it was a Technical Service Bulletin (NTB05-37a if you are interested). Totally My Bad, sorry. My blood pressure rises when I address this issue, I don't think right. $22,000 to $5,000 in 5-years is pretty expensive driving. I can't afford that.

I drove a Ford Aerostar for 163,000 miles/15-years and when I drove it to the Toyota dealer to trade it in for a Yaris under the Cash for Clunkers program it was still running. Seats were trashed, doors needed some work, no A/C, but it was running. The Dead Nissan in my driveway looks good, A/C works fine, interior is fine. It is just not suitable for driving. Other than that, perfect!

crazy97

iTrader: (1)

Found info though googling the pathfinder 3.5 oil consumtion.. 02 and 03 seem too have a lot of complaints. 04 seems ok. I was considering getting one of those because you could get a manual tranny.

Heres an oil loss link.. http://x.nissanhelp.com/forums/pathf...nsumption.html

more

http://www.nissanforums.com/pathfind...nsumption.html

Rods03Max619

iTrader: (5)

My 03 oil burner just died at 152,700 give or take a few not a Rod or something was messed up the labor was to much didn't care to know just knew it was cheaper to get a 04 engine and keep rolling should get it out of the shop today....

Scottwax

iTrader: (8)

Lucked out with my second 5.5 gen. First one was burning a quart every 1500-1800 miles for most of the time I had it (81k total miles) then when the front valve cover started leaking, consumption was a quart every 1200 miles. So far, so good with my current 5.5 gen, 3800 miles since the last oil change, added just over 1 quart. Thats a consumption rate I can definitely live with.

MONTE 01&97 SE

iTrader: (1)

No oil burning problem on the Max and it now has 115,840....Had it since brand new. Now this oil consumption problem is back as quite a few VQ37 G37's and 370Z's are reporting high oil consumption and in some cases are getting new motors after test are performed! Why couldn't the VQ35 and 37 be as reliable as the good ole' VQ30 and VG in alot of areas!

MONTE 01&97 SE

iTrader: (1)

Yeah the VQ35 HR's really dont have a problem, just the 08 G37 coupes and all 09+ G37's with the VQ37.

http://myg37.com/forums/tsb-technica...b10-048-a.html

http://myg37.com/forums/engine-drive...-on-a-g37.html

WECHSLERL

Only the high rev VQ35DE with manual transmission has the oil consumption problem
and with the G35 is limited to 2005 and 2006 models !!!!!
In 2007 Nissan changed the headers to add variable exhaust valves, but it probably did nothing because one year later, 2008 they switch to a completely new engine with 3.7 liters !

bachina

nfiniti i35
Year 2004
Miles 94K


for the last 30k my car has been burning oil at about 1quart per 1000-1200 miles. I get engine knock pretty bad between 1800-2600 rpm when going slight uphill or hard acceleration. for the last couple of months i have been researching all the forums ( maxima, nismo, bobistheoilguy ) and after reading all the posts and issues here is my analysis and what i did in sequence.

Ananlysis:

1) VQ35 are hard on oil. They shear pretty quick and the usual 5w30 turns into a 20wt oil pretty quick.
2) The VQ35 's have a problem with the right engine valve cover design. This causes oil to be sucked in via the PCV valve for reasons ( ?? i don't know, but there are some pretty good explanations from a person with a pathfinder, engine running hot to vaporize the oil etc)
3) The vale covers leak oil ( common issue)
4) Valve covers also leak oil into the spark plug holes messing up the spark plug coil and or messing up the firing (common issue)
5) Engine knock in VQ35 is caused by oil flowing into the induction manifold and getting burnt ( after being sucked from the PCV valve.) By definition engine oil in the cylinder firing chamber lowers the fuel octane rating causing it to knock
6) The knocking causes timing to retard to correct the knocking thereby causing the car to be sluggish especially accelerating .
7) Piston ring issues with some cars cause oil burn due to not sitting properly ( 10-15 % of the cars by some estimate)


Here is what i did:

1) replace the PCV valve. Helped for a couple of days to reduce knocking somewhat but not a lot. Was still burning oil
2) Switched to German Castrol 0w-30 ; Car did not burn any ( but hard to tell since i didn't keep it for long ) but i didn't like the sluggishness of the engine. However very smooth at high way speeds. replaced oil after 1000 miles. Knocking was reduced but still there, maybe a 50% reduction
3) Switched to Mobil 0w40 (European car formula). Very nice. slight sluggisghness vs 5w30 but very smooth at highway speeds. I could only hear wind noise. Silent otherwise. Oil burn was low at 1/4 quart per 1100 miles. much better than the 5w30 and the knocking was the same or slightly higher than the GC at maybe 60% of the time.
4) Cleaned Mass air filter. No change in knocking or burning, slightly improved acceleration
5) Installed new spark plugs : factory original . That is when i saw oil in the induction manifold ( it has to be removed to install plugs). Engine runs smoother slightly . But no change in knocking or burn.i had no leaks in the valve covers so that was good. Didn't have to replace the valve cover.
6) Installed oil catch can ( mishimoto, but i believe the better ones are from 42Designs ). Knocking has disappeared !!. Engine runs like it should, appropriately advanced timing.
I have only done 100 miles at this point but have to see if there is now oil condensation in the catchcan vs burning it prior to the catchcan.



Bottom line: Install a catchcan , these cars need it. Use either GC 0w30 or mobil 0w40 and that cuts down on oil burn from piston rings if any. In addition these two oils are best at protecting the engine based on oil analysis done. I am going to get mine done at the end of this round.

Additionally replace plugs ( $60 + labor) and the airflow sensor ($450 + labor)if you are over 75K and if the burn or knock issues persist. Hope this helps. And i love the car the way it drives.

bachina

i replaced the mishimotop catchcan with the 42 draft designs ( $115 + shipping) and the results are even better. ZERO knocking under any circumstances. The mishimoto would occassionally still cause a knock 2-5%. I have put 400 miles now on the new 42 catch can and it is amazing how much it collects compared to the mishimoto. Highly recommened for catch cans.

WECHSLERL

TRIED EVERYTHING WITH MY 2006 G35 MT
OIL CONSUMPTION STARTED SUDDENLY @ 26,000 miles.
I have two oil air separators (one on each head).
Only the PCV side has some oil in it but very very little, so the consumption does not come from there.
The only thing left to do is to use a good cleaner in the oil to see if that will release any stuck oil rings.
All plugs are dry and clean, compression is Very Good, but still 3/4 quart @1000 miles is dangerous.
I personally believe that both types of VQ35DE have this problem and the reason you hear it from MT owners mostly is simple:
We are the Ones that do check the oil frequently.
99% of the AT drivers take the cars to the dealer where no one is checking how much oil was missing !!!!!!
So we will never know how wide spread this problem is.

NmexMAX

iTrader: (22)

maxima_tyler

LOL, i have an AT and service my car myself. im sure just about everyone on this site changes the oil on their own car, whether it be an auto or manual.
Maybe 99% of ALL auto owners take their cars to service stations for this, but on this website in particular, where people care about what they drive (hence why they've signed up to the forum), this is DEFINTELY not the case.

Thats also where the numbers on this thread seem to have come from. not all maximas ever sold, but the ones who take part on this site (via polls, posts, ect).

NmexMAX

iTrader: (22)

Yep, mine is fine @ 129k, build date 10/02, MY 2003. Purchased with 39k on the clock. I have a friend whom recently bought one that has about 115k, also an 03, and it burns 710 like crazy.


So that AT statement is false when put in perspective from a forum point of view, which as is stated and supported by maxima_tyler.

IMO, the numbers from any poll would reflect only the forum consensus, which is obviously not the general consensus, which WECHSLERL is stating is the case, and it clearly is not.

From what I've seen the RU version has been more widespread. Either way, it is what it is, some say rings, others say pre-cats.

Strangely enough, that shouldn't be a problem @ 26k though.

Plugs are good and so is CR, so then that might put to rest the rings, which leaves us with next to nothing when thinking conventionally.

bachina

update: I also ran through a Kreen treatment ( check BITOG for all the good news about them) and the oil burn has improved somewhat. I am now at 2400 miles per quart though i also switched motor oils.


I would also recommend the new penzoil ultra 5w30 or 10w30( now that it is warm) , it seems to have helped significantly.

I have already tried german castrol, mobil 0w40 euro. Penzoil runs better and burns less. I have gone through atleast 3 runs of penzoil and the burn is consistent after the Kreen treatment.

The Kreen treatment also helped smooth out my acceleration and noise in the 2k-4k rpm range ( by a huge margin).

Stuck oil rings is a very possible issue for these engines and i would strongly suggest KREEN for 1k miles.

BobPezz

iTrader: (5)

Considering the low mileage on your engine & IF the VQ35 oil burning problem IS due to oil ring pack issues. Then you might want to try using TCW-3 rated Marine 2-Stroke Oil as a fuel additive. See this thread - http://forums.maxima.org/general-max...ke-oil-19.html

Gizm0

iTrader: (1)

If no oil is caught in the oil catch can, then it's most likeli valve stem seals??

rebelhell

iTrader: (1)

I must be one of the lucky ones. I have 155,000 miles on my Max and maybe go through half a quart between oil changes (5,000).

george__

iTrader: (1)

2002 Automatic SE with roughly 194k (km). I am the 3RD OWNER and oil levels are okay... Hopefully my mods don't cause issues

I got lucky :P, car was a lease

JWatZ

iTrader: (5)

Are you kidding me?
This was an issue I must have noticed by some strange voodoo magic that was blessed upon me by a leprechaun riding a unicorn since I drive an auto. But after researching I decided to install an oil catch can. I still burned about a 1/2 qt every 1000 miles or so, but It is better than what it was before. Before my last oil change I decided to run Seafoam through crankcase (as well as intake and gas tank). I've driven the car 1,400 miles and that leprechaun has informed me twice (via voodoo magic) that my level has maintained rather nicely. Only put in about a 1/4 qt. today... I mean the leprechaun did it for me since I'm an auto driver

bachina

Thanks bobpezz. I tried the TCw-3 and that thing works ! it improved my gas mileage by about 1 mpg and it cut my oil burn as well. after 1800 miles i only put 0.5 quart. That is more like 3500 miles to a quart of oil burn. I will wait and see. I now got the bg 109 ring cleaner to see if it helps more. will run that at the end of the oil change this cycle.
I recommend the tcw3 for anyone having any oil burn issues or just to see if it will improve any gas mileage.

BobPezz

iTrader: (5)

Glad to help.