shaidarharan

A shop I was recommended to quoted it as a 4 hour job but since I was recommended by someone who does a lot of business there they said they'd give me a break down to ~ 2.5 hrs. Sound right?

tcaughey

iTrader: (6)

4 hours, haha.

2.5 isn't terrible I guess, but that's because it isn't free.

There is a thread floating around discussing your options for replacing the sensor, and because there is a coolant line blocking access to the sensor underneath the intake manifold, the manifold must come off. It's virtually impossible to access the sensor using the 4th gen VQ methods. ( I do stand corrected, but I'd like to see video proof from those who have done the job without removing the intake manifold)

So, 2.5 hours to take off the manifold and replace the sensor and wiring harness (make sure you replace the harness, because chances are it can or has become frail over time) --- and put the manifold back together isn't a bad deal.

Now, are you sure your having problems with your knock sensor? Any codes or lack of power? For some reason, the knock sensor on the 5th gens isn't as big of a problem as 4th gens. If you do a search, you won't find much info about it in the 5th gen forums. For whatever reason, I don't know. Maybe Nissan got the sensor right on the DEK?

shaidarharan

I'm not 100% certain it's the KS, but the symptoms I have align with a bad KS. I'm gambling that will be the fix. If not, lesson learned, I'll have to get a code reader and do some homework next time before replacing parts.

thanks

5 ltr. beater

i still remember to this day doing the KS on my 3rd gen! man what a pain in the a$$!

sontakke

Let me guess; 4 hours at say $100 plus the cost of the sensor, say $100. So you are willing to gamble $500 but not willing to invest $100 for a scanner?

Some people, I just don't get them :-(

- Vikas

shaidarharan

No, it's 2.5hrs @ $100 and I've already got the sensor online for $30, but thanks for assuming I'm stupid

trooplewis

iTrader: (1)

Just have AutoZone read the codes for free before you spend $300 on a fix you may not need... OR buy a $34 code reader on Ebay

foodmanry

iTrader: (15)

Autozone doesn't read codes anymore for free...you have to buy the code reader.

At least in my area they don't do this any longer. I guess they had too many people walk off with them? Freakin sucks....

Mr. Brett

iTrader: (7)

They still do it here. Or at least they did last time I had them pull a code about a month ago (I've been using my buddy's scanner since).

2.5 hours seems like a lot of time IMO. I can pull the upper manifold off my car in about 10 minutes. But I suppose that's also because I've done it seven or eight times...I can't see the VQ30 DE-K being much more difficult.

foodmanry

iTrader: (15)

Bastards....they told me they stopped lending them about a year ago. I guess it is a So Cal thing.

Mr. Brett

iTrader: (7)

Well they actually walk out to the cars and do it for you here. I'm guessing it might have something to do with Cali's stricter emissions laws? I know I've used a scanner to cheat emissions before.

You didn't hear that, thought...

NmexMAX

iTrader: (22)

The DEK is more difficult than the 4th gen or 5.5 gen. IMO, the 5.5 gen is the easiest, followed by the 4th gen, and lastly (most difficult, or at least most time consuming) the DEK.

There's more poop in the way (VIAS, etc.). It's straightforward, so if I were you, I'd tackle it on my own. Be patient and take your time.

sontakke

So, you would rather throw $280 at a problem than investing $100 in a tool which will tell you right away if you are barking at the wrong tree? That tool will be useful for many many more years if you buy it with some forethought. You will be able to use it on your next car when it throws check engine light code. And eventually it will, you know that!

If you "invest" $100, you might save $250 in unnecessary labor or know for sure that you "need" the $250 repair.

Scanner with live data capability will tell you if your engine is running with the timing retarded or not. Then you will know for sure if you need to replace your knock sensor. Those scanners can be bought for about $100.

Or find a friend who has that scanner. Hey, if you were local, I would have helped you.

- Vikas

shaidarharan

It's an old car with high miles and the symptoms strongly indicate knock sensor so I figure it's worth it. If I end up being wrong I'll gladly buy the scanner.

MONTE 01&97 SE

iTrader: (1)

Since when did they lend you the scanner, as SLC said where he lives they still will read the code for you here in TX. They never let you use the reader yourself, always an employee that did it even when I lived in Cali.

Scottwax

iTrader: (8)

Code reader was the best investment I've made.

sontakke

He will need a scanner with live data, a lowly code reader will not be able to tell him if his engine is running under severe retardation.

> Code reader was the best investment I've made.

Did somebody twist your arm to make the purchase? I have done that to few people but my success rate is still way low :-(

- Vikas

NmexMAX

iTrader: (22)

UpRev Cipher is fairly cool for live data feeds/logging, etc.

foodmanry

iTrader: (15)

As of a few years ago....I would give them my driver's license and credit card, or in some cases just the DL, and they would give me the reader. I would read the code(s), clear them if I wanted, return the reader and get my DL and/CC back.

I had always done it this way, never had someone read them for me.

shaidarharan

So I had the shop replace my KS today, while they were in there I had em clean the IM and the TB and replace the spark plugs with factory recommended platinum/iridium plugs also. Got the car back and if anything it runs worse. Son of a... So I go pick up a code reader and check the codes, just a P0141 (rear bank O2 heater) which I cleared. Car still doesn't run any better. Can a bad O2 heater cause a severe lack of performance and throttle hesitation, or might this be the MAF (and not throwing any codes)? Perhaps I just need to reset the ECU, what is the procedure for this? I wouldn't ask but I only see the 5.5 gen procedure in any of the stickied threads and a search produced the same.

shaidarharan

On a positive note I learned my car was a Fed spec today

sontakke

You need a live scanner. I feel like a broken record :-(

shaidarharan

What information will a live scanner provide access to that will allow me to determine the cause of the issue(s) and how much will it cost?

DrunkieTheBear

iTrader: (17)

best investment I made was in a Diagnostics scanner...they are even better.

sontakke

It will prevent you from throwing unnecessary parts at it. It also might be able to pinpoint you the actual problem.

For example, if you had the live scanner, you could have looked at the ignition timing and would have known that it was not retarded. You could look at the MAF data and see if it looks suspect. You can look the coolant temperature and air intake temperatures and see if they make sense.

I just made a reply in another forum; here is the link for a scanner that you might be able to pick up under $100. That is a screaming good deal if you ask me.

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums...93#Post2046355

You can also look at ultra-gauge; you will be able to find many reviews including mine, if you google it. Ultra-gauge shows you all the live data and it is great but it does NOT have all the function of the scanner. Ultra-gauge is even cheaper!!

- Vikas

P.S. How did you figure out that you have a Fed spec car? How many O2 sensor connectors do you see on the exhaust manifold?

shaidarharan

Thanks for the advice. Looks like I'll be taking back my basic code reader that I got for $69 and picking up this one instead.

Using this method. I see 2.

sontakke

Actually, I should have said the number of connectors on the rail behind the radiator. They have wires with gray, red, blue and black color. If you have 4, you have Cali spec.

Cali spec has 2 secondary sensors but Fed has only 1 secondary sensor. Both spec have 2 primary sensors. I have yet to come across a Fed spec car.

trooplewis

iTrader: (1)

I don't see why you would have to remove the intake manifold to get to the knock sensor. I pulled my intake plumbing (the plastic stuff) to do the free short-throw-shifter mod, and you can look into the valley between the cylinder banks and see the KS sitting right there. Nothing really looked to be in the way, if you have small hands you can probably reach in and spin it once you break it loose with a socket.

Am I missing something with the KS? Looks pretty easy. LOTS easier than a 4th gen

shaidarharan

I'm curious about the two suggestions here, live scanner vs. diagnostics scanner. What are the differences? I'm certainly willing to invest $100 in a live scanner if it will allow me to diagnose my problem, but what are the differences between these scanners, both in capability and in cost.

foodmanry

iTrader: (15)

A diagnostic reader will basically tell you if you have any engine codes and will allow you to clear them. That is basically it.

A live scanner will do the same, plus allow you to continually scan and record the data stream from the OBD II PCM. It can capture various data points from your O2 sensors, coolant temperature, air intake temperature, engine RPM, vehicle speed, and much more.

Rods03Max619

iTrader: (5)

Same in my area!!

sontakke

If you have HF store, just go and buy it now before the price jumps back. Another brand scanner with similar capability will cost you two benjamins!