5th Generation Maxima (2000-2003)Learn more about the 5th Generation Maxima, including the VQ30DE-K and VQ35DE engines.
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Hey guys. I replaced my front and back engine mounts from Dave B roughly 1.5yrs ago and now my mechanic is telling me they are broken. From looking at the bushing itself, they look fresh and fine with no cracks or anything whatsoever, but when they brake torque a little bit, the engine pulls quite a bit. Also just shifting through the P-R-N-D, the engine seems to move a little too much compared with my friend's 3.5. I'll try to upload a vid of it soon but the vid format is huge and it'll take me a bit of time to get it uploaded.
I guess I just want to ask what is a good range of movement for the engine before they are consider bad mounts. Thanks!
Check your front and rear engine mounts as well. (AKA passenger and tranny mounts). If they are busted you will get the same engine movement issues.
I've never read about those 2 mount bushings needing replacement. On the AT Maxima, are they the same bushings as used in the torque mounts?
I'm thinking not... because ES only makes torque mount bushings for the 6MT car. The observation that there aren't aftermarket bushings for the front/back mounts implies there's no market for them; i.e., they're "lifetime" bushings, in as much as anything is a lifetime item.
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2003 Nissan Maxima SE 6MT, Original Owner, sold Jan 2012 - Back off, man. I'm waxing my duckfeet.
Most likely passenger side mount. At ~110k miles mine was more beaten down more than the others, and its replacement provided the most significant improvement.
The observation that there aren't aftermarket bushings for the front/back mounts implies there's no market for them; i.e., they're "lifetime" bushings, in as much as anything is a lifetime item.
When I replaced my passenger side mount I compared the new and old side by side. I should've taken a picture, because the differences were dramatic. The old mount's metal sleeve (for the bolt to pass through) had sagged downward ~3/4" and had noticeable cuts into/through the rubber.
Overall, there was a surprising increase in engine locating stiffness and I would consider this mount a must-do. This mount's slow failure may be why the NWP torque link provides positive reviews.
The observation that there aren't aftermarket bushings for the front/back mounts implies there's no market for them; i.e., they're "lifetime" bushings, in as much as anything is a lifetime item.
Not sure why. I just replaced mine and it was completely shot. I even treated the new one to 3M Windoweld and it did wonders. My engine sat approx. 2"-3" lower on the passenger side than it does now. Observed by distance between my FSTB and UIM.
Quote:
Originally Posted by 2slow
Overall, there was a surprising increase in engine locating stiffness and I would consider this mount a must-do. This mount's slow failure may be why the NWP torque link provides positive reviews.
I highly agree with this. Especially since I had already replaced from crossmember mounts and tranny mount to come and find that the passenger mount was destroyed. (The others were as well). Results after replacing the front (passenger) mount were night and day.
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Custom Short Ram Intake - Custom VIAS Block Off Plate - Custom Short Throw Shifter
Ralco RZ Performance Pulley - 2.5" SS Cat-Back Exhaust - Maxspeed Springs w/KYB GR2's
17" 6-spoke G35 Coupe Rims - 245/45-17 NEXEN N7000 W-rated - 5th Gen GLE Taillights
So which is the bigger job, these bushings, or the torque mount bushings?
Passenger side:
Took me 45 mins to replace. To get to the bolt underneath, just remove passenger tire and wheel well shield. Use an extension and a socket joint. It will allow you to get around the crank pulley easily.
Tranny side:
Was a bieatch! Just not a lot of room in there to get around. (This was also on a 6MT)
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Custom Short Ram Intake - Custom VIAS Block Off Plate - Custom Short Throw Shifter
Ralco RZ Performance Pulley - 2.5" SS Cat-Back Exhaust - Maxspeed Springs w/KYB GR2's
17" 6-spoke G35 Coupe Rims - 245/45-17 NEXEN N7000 W-rated - 5th Gen GLE Taillights
I guess I just want to ask what is a good range of movement for the engine before they are consider bad mounts. Thanks!
I've always wondered what my car does. You got me curious with this question, so I grabbed a 2x4 and slipped it down to the gas pedal, goosing the engine while I stood next to the car and watched the engine with the hood open. Goosed it a few times, then revved it up to 5K, dumped it and floored it again.
And it didn't budge, remaining absolutely still to the eye, no matter what I did. Granted, I have ES torque mount bushings, and a torque link connector, so it shouldn't be moving with those mods. But it was still an interesting experiment.
So to address your question, and by my reasoning, a good range of movement is: zero movement.
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2003 Nissan Maxima SE 6MT, Original Owner, sold Jan 2012 - Back off, man. I'm waxing my duckfeet.
Holy crap! Sorry for checking back so late! Been quite busy lately...
Anyways though! Thought I'll show you guys some interesting and surprising stuff that I've discovered during the weekend. Upon close inspection, my front and back mounts were still quite fresh yet the engine was still suffering a lot of twisting produced by the VQ torque The driver and passenger side mounts were toasted (see pictures). At the time, my car was vibrating a lot especially at idle. I hit up DaveB and he quickly shipped out a new set of mounts (driver & passenger side). During the weekend, I took my car out to get the mounts swapped out. When the mechanic opened the box and took the brand new mount out and compared to the broken mount that was taken out, it was completely different. The brand new mount was with a metal housing while the broken mount was aluminum. He thought Nissan changed the housing style to save cost and went ahead with the installation. When he was tightening the bolts, he noticed there were A LOT of play due to the long bolts and thinner metal housing. He thought I ordered the wrong part, so I tried to call DaveB again, but he was off that day. I talked to Martin but he didn't have a clue why that was and also was as baffled as me. My mechanic called a local Nissan dealer and they told him they have aluminum mounts for my car, so I said ok go ahead to buy it so I can get it done. The mechanic took my broken mount and went to the dealership to pick up a new one but to only find out that the part guy made a mistake and the mounts for my car were all metal housing. The part guy looked up the part number on my broken mount and found out it was for an ALTIMA and NOT for a MAXIMA. After an hour of short bolts searching was the mechanic able to get the installation done... No more vibration + a lot less engine movements now.
******CLIFF NOTES****** Swapped out broken WRONG engine mounts = no more vibrations
...So to address your question, and by my reasoning, a good range of movement is: zero movement.
Was your car in gear when you did it?
The engine isn't going to move much if you just rev it, unless your motor mounts are absolutely blown to pieces. The only way to get the engine to stand up is to put it in gear and brake stand the car a little (about 2k RPMs) to put some pressure on the drivetrain. Easier to do in an AT than in a MT...
I know my mounts are pretty worn. My engine lifted nearly an inch last time I checked things out.
I just haven't bothered to put in new ones...I think I'm going to put the ES mounts in my AT, though. I don't see the need for the electronic motor mounts.
The engine isn't going to move much if you just rev it, unless your motor mounts are absolutely blown to pieces. The only way to get the engine to stand up is to put it in gear and brake stand the car a little (about 2k RPMs) to put some pressure on the drivetrain. Easier to do in an AT than in a MT...
Oh crap, of course that's right.
All this talk lately about front and tranny mounts have got me seriously thinking about OEM replacement. I've been riding on the assumption that those two bushings aren't typical replacements. Seems that was a pretty bogus assumption on my part.
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2003 Nissan Maxima SE 6MT, Original Owner, sold Jan 2012 - Back off, man. I'm waxing my duckfeet.
Seems like Maxima's are famous for ongoing issues..every day and other ..when i search any problems in my maxima i get so many answers in google..that means lot of people are having the same issues..its only because i love the engine - i am still stick to it...
i have 2004 se auto
anyways..i changed my engine/transmission mount ( which is i guess in the driver side ) 2 months back..dealer said once u change it the other mounts will be safe..now again i went for an inspection and now they said my right side mount is broken..is there any way i cud check that myself ? and what cud be the impacts ?
like i m getting a weired whinnin noise at 50 mph..thats exactly on 50 mph..does not occur in any other range..and once i cross 50 or go below the noise dissappers..seems like coming from the driver side engine bay but not 100 sure..hard to locate it while driving.. also i noticed the whin in park and brake applied and revving the engine..lets say i m in parking condition and revv the engine to 1500 and leave..the whin noise comes for few secs then go off..i opened the hood and looked like coming from the engine left side ( looking at the engine from the front )...not sure if this is the mount issue or something else..
also i get a harsh shifting at cold start between 2nd to 3rd..and once the engine reaches normal operating temp..everything becomes fine..
dont know how much more i will have to spend..already spent above $1200 for this car..
any help/direction towards this will be helpful and i really appreciate for reading this long post..
look up sub frame collars should take car of the problem if not from what ive heard is a MUST do and show insane improvement. only around 80 and takes less than an hour to do yourself. theres a sticky somewhere
i've noticed that people are using OEM mounts. has anyone installed the aftermarket mounts like the ones sold by Rock Auto? is there any difference in the quality or function? they carry anchor and beck arnley
i have an '00 SE and i want to replace all 4 mounts and the price difference is significant between Nissan and aftermarket. i want to use all MT mounts except for the passanger side mount which i understand to have a slightly different bracket so it needs the specific auto one as listed on Rock Auto's site.
I have an '02 SE Auto. I need to replace all my mounts and I am ordering the the Energy Suspension Torque Mounts for two of the mounts. On Energy's site it states that they will work but are not electric. Does anyone know if I need to purchase the MT mounts in order to install these? Also, do any companies make polyurethane replacements for the other mounts?
I have an '02 SE Auto. I need to replace all my mounts and I am ordering the the Energy Suspension Torque Mounts for two of the mounts. On Energy's site it states that they will work but are not electric. Does anyone know if I need to purchase the MT mounts in order to install these? Also, do any companies make polyurethane replacements for the other mounts?
If you have an auto trans, you need to get a couple manual transmission torque mounts and install the ES bushings into those to make it work. The Auto trans mounts have a different diameter and will not work with the ES bushings.
If you have an auto trans, you need to get a couple manual transmission torque mounts and install the ES bushings into those to make it work. The Auto trans mounts have a different diameter and will not work with the ES bushings.
I think you just need the front one as it is different, the rears are the same so I heard, will know for sure next week, bought a cheap front ebay manual one and got the ES inserts...cant beat 30 bucks shipped...
Both the auto mounts on the crossmember are electric. You need to get two manual mounts in order to use the ES bushings in them. However I think knight makes a ring that can go into the auto mounts such that the ES bushings will fit snugly.
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Both the auto mounts on the crossmember are electric. You need to get two manual mounts in order to use the ES bushings in them. However I think knight makes a ring that can go into the auto mounts such that the ES bushings will fit snugly.
I think only the GLE's have electric rear mounts. In my 02 SE Auto, only the front mount was electric, though if you are going to drop the cross member you might as well replace both.
When I replaced my mounts I used MT mounts for both front and rear. Bolted right up and no complaints other then a slight vibration at idle that is probably coming from my trans mount that I have yet to swap.
i have a built 03 6 speed and i know the mounts are shot as i cant even floor it in first gear because of the violent wheel hop, and it bucks even when im granny shiftin.
i caught a deal for two of them on here and one is going on the front mount by the front manifold(its visibly clear that it is torn)... where would yall say its safest to put the other? leads me to believe the passenger mount is as weak as the back one..
i have a built 03 6 speed and i know the mounts are shot as i cant even floor it in first gear because of the violent wheel hop, and it bucks even when im granny shiftin.
i caught a deal for two of them on here and one is going on the front mount by the front manifold(its visibly clear that it is torn)... where would yall say its safest to put the other? leads me to believe the passenger mount is as weak as the back one..
Replace the torque mounts with ES inserts, replace your passenger mount with inserts from Knight_xyz(Wrayth Mount), and replace your 6spd mount with a Nissan OEM or wait for Knight to finish the design for those inserts as well.
i have a built 03 6 speed and i know the mounts are shot as i cant even floor it in first gear because of the violent wheel hop, and it bucks even when im granny shiftin.
i caught a deal for two of them on here and one is going on the front mount by the front manifold(its visibly clear that it is torn)... where would yall say its safest to put the other? leads me to believe the passenger mount is as weak as the back one..
Put em where they go the front and the rear, don't think they are interchangeable to where ever you want to put them.....
The driver and passenger side mounts were toasted (see pictures). At the time, my car was vibrating a lot especially at idle. I hit up DaveB and he quickly shipped out a new set of mounts (driver & passenger side). During the weekend, I took my car out to get the mounts swapped out. When the mechanic opened the box and took the brand new mount out and compared to the broken mount that was taken out, it was completely different. The brand new mount was with a metal housing while the broken mount was aluminum. He thought Nissan changed the housing style to save cost and went ahead with the installation. When he was tightening the bolts, he noticed there were A LOT of play due to the long bolts and thinner metal housing. He thought I ordered the wrong part, so I tried to call DaveB again, but he was off that day. I talked to Martin but he didn't have a clue why that was and also was as baffled as me. My mechanic called a local Nissan dealer and they told him they have aluminum mounts for my car, so I said ok go ahead to buy it so I can get it done. The mechanic took my broken mount and went to the dealership to pick up a new one but to only find out that the part guy made a mistake and the mounts for my car were all metal housing. The part guy looked up the part number on my broken mount and found out it was for an ALTIMA and NOT for a MAXIMA. After an hour of short bolts searching was the mechanic able to get the installation done... No more vibration + a lot less engine movements now. 
Oh crap, of course that's right.
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