rosader

iTrader: (1)

This morning I started the car and disengaged the e-brake but the light stayed on??? Also, for the past few months whenever i go over about 80mph then slow down my brakes will have a squeal for a while even when i'm not pressing the brakes so I'm thinking the brake might be stuck??? Does this happen to anyone else? Do I just need to replace the caliper?

MadMax07SL

The light could be as simple as the brake fluid being low. Check that right away before you end up getting air into the system.

As far as the noise, check the pad life and your rotors...look for uneven wear, or thin pads that need replacing...Pads and rotors may be all you need, but you gotta inspect the corners as no one here can know with certainty what's the matter with your brakes without more investigation...

Nexus67

iTrader: (23)

EDIT: (misread post)

Good luck OP, my pads were engaged in the rear and smoked on me for ~1/8 mile. I tugged on them but never figured out why (they;re new), haven't had an issue since (1 month so far)

vinco

iTrader: (3)

There's a good chance the caliper needs replacing - they tend to go bad on these cars. Even if you don't replace the actual caliper, you should take it apart, pull out the slider bolts and clean them up. Also clean up the stainless steel clips that the pads slide on. Lube it all up, making sure you get a good coating of brake lube everywhere that metal slides on metal, and put it back together. This will help greatly with any sticking problems.

ghostrider17

iTrader: (6)

**Good Advice Vinco!**

Had my right rear lock-up on me recently.
I've got 80k on the orignal Calp's and Rotors, and 50k on the Hawk Pads....so, it was time.

I'd say either your calp's are seizing, or your E-brake is doing the same -- OR your brake fluid is low.

In any case -- you want to CHECK these before you drive anywhere!

I'm rebuilding my calp's with a seal set I bought from Autozone ($10) with new rotors ($20 ea) and new Hawk HPS pads ($60/set shipped from RTP).

If you are unlucky, replacing the calp's will run you about $70 ea. for a reman'd unit.

How many miles on your car / rear brakes??

gr

Feldman

iTrader: (1)

the brake light is most likely just low fluid but like most everybody here has said our calipers tend to seize up (I just had to replace my rear calipers a few months ago)

There is a chance your rotor has warped from all the extra heat the dragging rotor put into it so that would be something to check out too.

I'm in SLC too if you need any help just PM me

NmexMAX

iTrader: (22)

I've never seen the brake light turn on as a result of a seized caliper.

The Brake light turns on when the fluid is low or the ebrake is on. In either case, if the fluid is low, you probably need new pads (material wears down, thus resulting in more fluid required to fill in dead volume of absent pad material).

The ABS light turns on when there is a faulty ABS sensor.

tombinator

The man knows what he's talking about, as Vinco just helped change (and by helped means Vinco did the wrenchin, and I did the tool handing off) all four calipers on my i30. The brakes were shot... so new calipers / rotors/ pads all around. Now, it stops like a champ.

BTW - If you do end up needing a caliper, rockauto has loaded remanufactured 5.5 Gen front calipers for $32 each, with no core charge, as they're a closeout. They were nicely rebuilt, with a great rust resistant coating. So if you need some, and have time to mail order, it's a great deal.

rosader

iTrader: (1)

fluid was low topped it off now the light is gone but I also think I have a sticky rear pass side caliper because the inside of the rotor looks burnt up/ warped and this might explain my steering wheel shimmy at high speeds that i posted about a few weeks ago.

ghostrider17

iTrader: (6)

That IS a smokin' deal -- IF you're still running the 5.5 fronts!

Wouldn't really stand to reason that you have a shimmy in the Steering with a sticky REAR caliper.
Sticking is sticking -- you'll see the smoke, feel the heat, and see the grooves in the rotor is it's REALLY sticking!!

gr

vinco

iTrader: (3)

We upgraded Tombinator's fronts from 5.0 to 5.5, because he's running 16" wheels, and 6gen's won't fit with 16's. Still a nice upgrade, with about 3/4" larger rotor - and just TRY to beat that price for a 6-gen swap! The Rock Auto calipers are EXCELLENT quality remans, and they come with pretty decent-looking semi-metallic pads, but we swapped the pads out for ceramics, as I feel they're better pads. We also installed ATE slotted rotors for an additional upgrade. He now has some SWEET brakes, that's for sure!

NickStam

iTrader: (3)

Just to confirm for others who read the thread, my brake light when on solid while the e-brake worked properly and it turns out i was leaking fluid.