Man, when it rains, it pours.....
10-25-2010, 03:08 PM
#1
Man, when it rains, it pours.....
This ain't a b!tchfest, don't get me wrong, just "observations" relating to recent developments in my Maxima driving experience.
I've commented recently in a few threads, as they pertain to my car's issues, namely the EVAP codes ( I've also discovered a hidden O2 sensor code, hah), the engine pinging, and I started a "blower motor on overdrive thread".
So I replaced my blower motor amplifier, and was shocked to see the amount of corrosion evident on the thing, that northern climate really did a number on it while it was up there. Thought that problem was behind me, and for a few days it was-until the blower motor siezed up, lol, popped both fuses in the engine bay.
While I was in the engine bay, I noticed some seeping coming from my radiator, argh, and I thought I'd been smelling that sweet coolant smell a few days prior, but this confirmed it- I need a radiator
But, the car still runs great, and I'd been seeing 21.4mpg on my readout, despite almost 100% city driving, albeit with a helluvalotta that pinging/preignition from the engine bay, all the more evident with the windows down now that my blower motor's trashed.
I set out to pull a degree of base timing the other day, using the scanner we have over here at the shop, and think I'm using it right, but it's still just a-clattering. I'm gonna try another degree, take it down to 13, see what that does for me.
So before I can get to my ever-worsening motor mounts and suspension, I get to tackle the radiator (granted, only $100 at local 1-800-radiator), the blower motor (still working on that), an O2 sensor, and my EVAP prob, before my inspection sticker expires at year's end.
Oh, and my autotragic is starting to intermittently slip in R when cold, but that's ok, I've got another low-mileage tranny waiting to go in when it bucks the kicket for good.
All this, just before my wife's birthday, and just in time for both my girls' birthdays, and Christmas! hah
But the alternator and battery are new!
so whatever, I still like my purchase 
I've commented recently in a few threads, as they pertain to my car's issues, namely the EVAP codes ( I've also discovered a hidden O2 sensor code, hah), the engine pinging, and I started a "blower motor on overdrive thread".
So I replaced my blower motor amplifier, and was shocked to see the amount of corrosion evident on the thing, that northern climate really did a number on it while it was up there. Thought that problem was behind me, and for a few days it was-until the blower motor siezed up, lol, popped both fuses in the engine bay.
While I was in the engine bay, I noticed some seeping coming from my radiator, argh, and I thought I'd been smelling that sweet coolant smell a few days prior, but this confirmed it- I need a radiator
But, the car still runs great, and I'd been seeing 21.4mpg on my readout, despite almost 100% city driving, albeit with a helluvalotta that pinging/preignition from the engine bay, all the more evident with the windows down now that my blower motor's trashed.
I set out to pull a degree of base timing the other day, using the scanner we have over here at the shop, and think I'm using it right, but it's still just a-clattering. I'm gonna try another degree, take it down to 13, see what that does for me.
So before I can get to my ever-worsening motor mounts and suspension, I get to tackle the radiator (granted, only $100 at local 1-800-radiator), the blower motor (still working on that), an O2 sensor, and my EVAP prob, before my inspection sticker expires at year's end.
Oh, and my autotragic is starting to intermittently slip in R when cold, but that's ok, I've got another low-mileage tranny waiting to go in when it bucks the kicket for good.
All this, just before my wife's birthday, and just in time for both my girls' birthdays, and Christmas! hah
But the alternator and battery are new!
so whatever, I still like my purchase
10-25-2010, 07:07 PM
#2
This ain't a b!tchfest, don't get me wrong, just "observations" relating to recent developments in my Maxima driving experience.
I've commented recently in a few threads, as they pertain to my car's issues, namely the EVAP codes ( I've also discovered a hidden O2 sensor code, hah), the engine pinging, and I started a "blower motor on overdrive thread".
So I replaced my blower motor amplifier, and was shocked to see the amount of corrosion evident on the thing, that northern climate really did a number on it while it was up there. Thought that problem was behind me, and for a few days it was-until the blower motor siezed up, lol, popped both fuses in the engine bay.
While I was in the engine bay, I noticed some seeping coming from my radiator, argh, and I thought I'd been smelling that sweet coolant smell a few days prior, but this confirmed it- I need a radiator
But, the car still runs great, and I'd been seeing 21.4mpg on my readout, despite almost 100% city driving, albeit with a helluvalotta that pinging/preignition from the engine bay, all the more evident with the windows down now that my blower motor's trashed.
I set out to pull a degree of base timing the other day, using the scanner we have over here at the shop, and think I'm using it right, but it's still just a-clattering. I'm gonna try another degree, take it down to 13, see what that does for me.
So before I can get to my ever-worsening motor mounts and suspension, I get to tackle the radiator (granted, only $100 at local 1-800-radiator), the blower motor (still working on that), an O2 sensor, and my EVAP prob, before my inspection sticker expires at year's end.
Oh, and my autotragic is starting to intermittently slip in R when cold, but that's ok, I've got another low-mileage tranny waiting to go in when it bucks the kicket for good.
All this, just before my wife's birthday, and just in time for both my girls' birthdays, and Christmas! hah
But the alternator and battery are new! so whatever, I still like my purchase
I've commented recently in a few threads, as they pertain to my car's issues, namely the EVAP codes ( I've also discovered a hidden O2 sensor code, hah), the engine pinging, and I started a "blower motor on overdrive thread".
So I replaced my blower motor amplifier, and was shocked to see the amount of corrosion evident on the thing, that northern climate really did a number on it while it was up there. Thought that problem was behind me, and for a few days it was-until the blower motor siezed up, lol, popped both fuses in the engine bay.
While I was in the engine bay, I noticed some seeping coming from my radiator, argh, and I thought I'd been smelling that sweet coolant smell a few days prior, but this confirmed it- I need a radiator
But, the car still runs great, and I'd been seeing 21.4mpg on my readout, despite almost 100% city driving, albeit with a helluvalotta that pinging/preignition from the engine bay, all the more evident with the windows down now that my blower motor's trashed.
I set out to pull a degree of base timing the other day, using the scanner we have over here at the shop, and think I'm using it right, but it's still just a-clattering. I'm gonna try another degree, take it down to 13, see what that does for me.
So before I can get to my ever-worsening motor mounts and suspension, I get to tackle the radiator (granted, only $100 at local 1-800-radiator), the blower motor (still working on that), an O2 sensor, and my EVAP prob, before my inspection sticker expires at year's end.
Oh, and my autotragic is starting to intermittently slip in R when cold, but that's ok, I've got another low-mileage tranny waiting to go in when it bucks the kicket for good.
All this, just before my wife's birthday, and just in time for both my girls' birthdays, and Christmas! hah
But the alternator and battery are new!
so whatever, I still like my purchase The only things I'm dealing with is the AC pulley bearing and bad wiring on an 02 sensor.
I bought a 4th gen blower motor off ebay for 25 shipped. Problem solved
10-26-2010, 04:58 AM
#4
On the contrary, having only paid $1200 for the car, I think my luck was good at that time, lol, but really, it's all good, I rather expected the rest of the car to have its issues, at now 156k on the chassis and trans, I really can't help but say "so what", if the rest of the car acts its age.
I've got about 38k on my $400 engine, and when my trans goes, it'll be replaced for $50 after trading my old engine for a 4AT that's sittin on 43k, so I'll change alternators and radiators and O2 sensors all day long and never skip a beat.
Oh, and my fuel gauge sending unit in the tank is still spazzing out, lol, why couldn't this all wait till new years? But I've also put right at 10,000 miles on it since I fired up the "new" engine only back in march, I think it was, so there's your indication of how easy/fun it is to drive, despite the "quirks"
Maybe I'm being victimized by some "close the gap" backwards kharma voodoo curse, LOL!!
I've got about 38k on my $400 engine, and when my trans goes, it'll be replaced for $50 after trading my old engine for a 4AT that's sittin on 43k, so I'll change alternators and radiators and O2 sensors all day long and never skip a beat.
Oh, and my fuel gauge sending unit in the tank is still spazzing out, lol, why couldn't this all wait till new years? But I've also put right at 10,000 miles on it since I fired up the "new" engine only back in march, I think it was, so there's your indication of how easy/fun it is to drive, despite the "quirks"
Maybe I'm being victimized by some "close the gap" backwards kharma voodoo curse, LOL!!
10-26-2010, 05:08 AM
#5
Keep us posted if the timing retardation works to correct the pre-ignition.
I'll be dayumed if mine is still not doing it intermittantly, and for no apparent reason.
I feed her the best fuel, treat her to FI cleanings, and just douched the MAF.....what's a guy to do!?!
gr
I'll be dayumed if mine is still not doing it intermittantly, and for no apparent reason.
I feed her the best fuel, treat her to FI cleanings, and just douched the MAF.....what's a guy to do!?!
gr
10-26-2010, 05:14 AM
#6
yea i'm coming up on 200k and my main issue with this car was when my transmission went. right now i'm trying to get parts together to get ready to do my 200K maintenance. my driver side axle is throwing some grease so thats added to the list and my coilpacks need changing since one is throwing a code i decided to try to do it right and replace them all at once along with the spark plugs. new MTF, flush radiator/cooling system and brake system and belts.
but overall it has been relatively an easy car to maintain, if it wasnt for the transmission being crappy, i'd rate this car with my old 88 toyota pickup, but its nowhere near that dependable.
but overall it has been relatively an easy car to maintain, if it wasnt for the transmission being crappy, i'd rate this car with my old 88 toyota pickup, but its nowhere near that dependable.
10-26-2010, 06:18 AM
#7
gr, I sure will.
Like I was saying, I'm not 100% familiar with this scantool we have over here, and I wasn't honestly expecting it to have that capability, so I'm not sure if I got it right the first time, I'm gonna check it again after work this evening.
I'm right there with you, my engine's an '08, it shouldn't be plagued by any of the 5.5th gen preignition issues, but it sure is, which leads me to believe it's an ECM issue (too much timing advance)
Like I was saying, I'm not 100% familiar with this scantool we have over here, and I wasn't honestly expecting it to have that capability, so I'm not sure if I got it right the first time, I'm gonna check it again after work this evening.
I'm right there with you, my engine's an '08, it shouldn't be plagued by any of the 5.5th gen preignition issues, but it sure is, which leads me to believe it's an ECM issue (too much timing advance)
10-26-2010, 06:37 AM
#8
gr, I sure will.
Like I was saying, I'm not 100% familiar with this scantool we have over here, and I wasn't honestly expecting it to have that capability, so I'm not sure if I got it right the first time, I'm gonna check it again after work this evening.
I'm right there with you, my engine's an '08, it shouldn't be plagued by any of the 5.5th gen preignition issues, but it sure is, which leads me to believe it's an ECM issue (too much timing advance)
Like I was saying, I'm not 100% familiar with this scantool we have over here, and I wasn't honestly expecting it to have that capability, so I'm not sure if I got it right the first time, I'm gonna check it again after work this evening.
I'm right there with you, my engine's an '08, it shouldn't be plagued by any of the 5.5th gen preignition issues, but it sure is, which leads me to believe it's an ECM issue (too much timing advance)
Yeah - think you're RIGHT about that.
Didn't know you had an '08 motor??
This got me thinking about that ECU REPROGRAM that most of us had done way back when, for the THROTTLE HESITATION.
I wonder just exactly WHAT that little "update" did to the timing and TPS, etc???
Hmpf -- I know me and Rochester are constantly trying to figure-out (or find a "physical" solution) to the reason why our cars do the pre-det boogie all the time?!?!?
We should NEVER have these issues with such a fine motor.
--or the oil loss OR the VTC grind-- YUP, I have 'em ALL!
gr
10-26-2010, 05:34 PM
#9
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: CT
Posts: 2
I just picked up my first max, been a long time nissan fanatic for about 10 years now. all sr20s up until now. my max has a few issues shot motor mounts, stalls on hot restarts, rust. live and learn. it runs great. it seems to have a deadspot around 3800 i cant really figure out. i reset the computer and it temporarily solved the hot restart problem. the other issues i will figure out as i go but the 3800 power curve drives me nuts.
10-26-2010, 05:45 PM
#10
try engine and transmission blowing at the sametime and the car being down for 6months then 6 months later after replacing both the transmission goes again... srry to hear mang... my ride is down for my bday most likely too
10-26-2010, 07:10 PM
#11
I know how you feel. 
I just purchased my 5.5 and had to replace the clutch. Dropped the tranny, took off the flywheel for resurfacing and saw a little seapage around the rear main. Dropped the aluminum oil pan and replaced the front and rear seals as well. Discovered I need new belts. Replaced those. Figured I would drain the coolant from the block since I was there already. Bought brand new Nissan coolant for the refill.
I got the car all back together on Sunday thinking I was almost ready to really drive it for the first time. 500 miles for the clutch break-in. 25 miles in and found a small crack in the plastic on the radiator(which is holding the expensive coolant).
I'm hoping it'll all be worth it when done, but I can't help thinking I should have just drove my 4th gen for another 60k. 25 miles under 3000 rpms wasn't enough to show me why I'm sacrificing turning radius and stiffer handling. 
Tell me it'll be worth it.
I just purchased my 5.5 and had to replace the clutch. Dropped the tranny, took off the flywheel for resurfacing and saw a little seapage around the rear main. Dropped the aluminum oil pan and replaced the front and rear seals as well. Discovered I need new belts. Replaced those. Figured I would drain the coolant from the block since I was there already. Bought brand new Nissan coolant for the refill. I got the car all back together on Sunday thinking I was almost ready to really drive it for the first time. 500 miles for the clutch break-in. 25 miles in and found a small crack in the plastic on the radiator(which is holding the expensive coolant).
I'm hoping it'll all be worth it when done, but I can't help thinking I should have just drove my 4th gen for another 60k. 25 miles under 3000 rpms wasn't enough to show me why I'm sacrificing turning radius and stiffer handling. Tell me it'll be worth it.
10-27-2010, 07:40 AM
#12
No kidding?!?!
Yeah - think you're RIGHT about that.
Didn't know you had an '08 motor??
This got me thinking about that ECU REPROGRAM that most of us had done way back when, for the THROTTLE HESITATION.
I wonder just exactly WHAT that little "update" did to the timing and TPS, etc???
Hmpf -- I know me and Rochester are constantly trying to figure-out (or find a "physical" solution) to the reason why our cars do the pre-det boogie all the time?!?!?
We should NEVER have these issues with such a fine motor.
--or the oil loss OR the VTC grind-- YUP, I have 'em ALL!
gr
Yeah - think you're RIGHT about that.
Didn't know you had an '08 motor??
This got me thinking about that ECU REPROGRAM that most of us had done way back when, for the THROTTLE HESITATION.
I wonder just exactly WHAT that little "update" did to the timing and TPS, etc???
Hmpf -- I know me and Rochester are constantly trying to figure-out (or find a "physical" solution) to the reason why our cars do the pre-det boogie all the time?!?!?
We should NEVER have these issues with such a fine motor.
--or the oil loss OR the VTC grind-- YUP, I have 'em ALL!
gr
I dropped an '08 Quest motor in earlier this year, after buying the car with the engine blown. And not knowing any more than I do about these cars and their history, my comments may be way off the wall...... but just "playing devil's advocate" :
The throttle hesitation update could just address something with the drive-by-wire or other electronic system, not necc. any preignition issues. I mean, my car doesn't hesitate/stumble, it pulls clean and crisp through the entire rpm range, with just the faintest hint of detonation right before shift. It's just markedly noticeable when under very light throttle, and right around 1800-2100 rpm.
The only explanation I might be able to offer is that the 02 was the first year Nissan tried to squeeze 255hp out of a 3.5L NA engine. There are bound to be oversights or deficiencies in any "first run" engine. Compound that by a super-aggressive timing curve and lean fuel map, to squeeze every last horsepower out of what programming was available in '02, and yeah, I can see those problems you're talking about.
j/k, I've been in your shoes, my poor old Supra, tho it never really broke down or let me down, I had to take it out of commission on many a repetitive occasion due to my own "spirited" driving style. It did the best it could to do what I asked of it, despite my taking its intended limits and throwing em out the window, but every now and then yeah, I'd have to give it a sabbatical, lolI know how you feel. I just purchased my 5.5 and had to replace the clutch. Dropped the tranny, took off the flywheel for resurfacing and saw a little seapage around the rear main. Dropped the aluminum oil pan and replaced the front and rear seals as well. Discovered I need new belts. Replaced those. Figured I would drain the coolant from the block since I was there already. Bought brand new Nissan coolant for the refill.
I got the car all back together on Sunday thinking I was almost ready to really drive it for the first time. 500 miles for the clutch break-in. 25 miles in and found a small crack in the plastic on the radiator(which is holding the expensive coolant). I'm hoping it'll all be worth it when done, but I can't help thinking I should have just drove my 4th gen for another 60k. 25 miles under 3000 rpms wasn't enough to show me why I'm sacrificing turning radius and stiffer handling. Tell me it'll be worth it.
I just purchased my 5.5 and had to replace the clutch. Dropped the tranny, took off the flywheel for resurfacing and saw a little seapage around the rear main. Dropped the aluminum oil pan and replaced the front and rear seals as well. Discovered I need new belts. Replaced those. Figured I would drain the coolant from the block since I was there already. Bought brand new Nissan coolant for the refill. I got the car all back together on Sunday thinking I was almost ready to really drive it for the first time. 500 miles for the clutch break-in. 25 miles in and found a small crack in the plastic on the radiator(which is holding the expensive coolant).
I'm hoping it'll all be worth it when done, but I can't help thinking I should have just drove my 4th gen for another 60k. 25 miles under 3000 rpms wasn't enough to show me why I'm sacrificing turning radius and stiffer handling. Tell me it'll be worth it.Oh, and if you check amazon.com, you can buy a radiator for $89 shipped
10-27-2010, 02:00 PM
#13
Member
Join Date: Mar 2004
Posts: 44
I'm driving a 2001 Maxima SE.
How are you changing your o2 sensor? Changing the whole thing (sensor and wiring)? Or just the sensor by splicing into the old wiring? I tried changing the whole thing but the electrical connector is a ***** to get off. No room to press the release clip in the connector. Did you manage to get it off.
How are you changing your o2 sensor? Changing the whole thing (sensor and wiring)? Or just the sensor by splicing into the old wiring? I tried changing the whole thing but the electrical connector is a ***** to get off. No room to press the release clip in the connector. Did you manage to get it off.
10-27-2010, 02:29 PM
#14
I'm driving a 2001 Maxima SE.
How are you changing your o2 sensor? Changing the whole thing (sensor and wiring)? Or just the sensor by splicing into the old wiring? I tried changing the whole thing but the electrical connector is a ***** to get off. No room to press the release clip in the connector. Did you manage to get it off.
How are you changing your o2 sensor? Changing the whole thing (sensor and wiring)? Or just the sensor by splicing into the old wiring? I tried changing the whole thing but the electrical connector is a ***** to get off. No room to press the release clip in the connector. Did you manage to get it off.
10-27-2010, 03:25 PM
#15
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Baton Rouge, LA
Posts: 487
This ain't a b!tchfest, don't get me wrong, just "observations" relating to recent developments in my Maxima driving experience.
I've commented recently in a few threads, as they pertain to my car's issues, namely the EVAP codes ( I've also discovered a hidden O2 sensor code, hah), the engine pinging, and I started a "blower motor on overdrive thread".
So I replaced my blower motor amplifier, and was shocked to see the amount of corrosion evident on the thing, that northern climate really did a number on it while it was up there. Thought that problem was behind me, and for a few days it was-until the blower motor siezed up, lol, popped both fuses in the engine bay.
While I was in the engine bay, I noticed some seeping coming from my radiator, argh, and I thought I'd been smelling that sweet coolant smell a few days prior, but this confirmed it- I need a radiator
But, the car still runs great, and I'd been seeing 21.4mpg on my readout, despite almost 100% city driving, albeit with a helluvalotta that pinging/preignition from the engine bay, all the more evident with the windows down now that my blower motor's trashed.
I set out to pull a degree of base timing the other day, using the scanner we have over here at the shop, and think I'm using it right, but it's still just a-clattering. I'm gonna try another degree, take it down to 13, see what that does for me.
So before I can get to my ever-worsening motor mounts and suspension, I get to tackle the radiator (granted, only $100 at local 1-800-radiator), the blower motor (still working on that), an O2 sensor, and my EVAP prob, before my inspection sticker expires at year's end.
Oh, and my autotragic is starting to intermittently slip in R when cold, but that's ok, I've got another low-mileage tranny waiting to go in when it bucks the kicket for good.
All this, just before my wife's birthday, and just in time for both my girls' birthdays, and Christmas! hah
But the alternator and battery are new! so whatever, I still like my purchase
I've commented recently in a few threads, as they pertain to my car's issues, namely the EVAP codes ( I've also discovered a hidden O2 sensor code, hah), the engine pinging, and I started a "blower motor on overdrive thread".
So I replaced my blower motor amplifier, and was shocked to see the amount of corrosion evident on the thing, that northern climate really did a number on it while it was up there. Thought that problem was behind me, and for a few days it was-until the blower motor siezed up, lol, popped both fuses in the engine bay.
While I was in the engine bay, I noticed some seeping coming from my radiator, argh, and I thought I'd been smelling that sweet coolant smell a few days prior, but this confirmed it- I need a radiator
But, the car still runs great, and I'd been seeing 21.4mpg on my readout, despite almost 100% city driving, albeit with a helluvalotta that pinging/preignition from the engine bay, all the more evident with the windows down now that my blower motor's trashed.
I set out to pull a degree of base timing the other day, using the scanner we have over here at the shop, and think I'm using it right, but it's still just a-clattering. I'm gonna try another degree, take it down to 13, see what that does for me.
So before I can get to my ever-worsening motor mounts and suspension, I get to tackle the radiator (granted, only $100 at local 1-800-radiator), the blower motor (still working on that), an O2 sensor, and my EVAP prob, before my inspection sticker expires at year's end.
Oh, and my autotragic is starting to intermittently slip in R when cold, but that's ok, I've got another low-mileage tranny waiting to go in when it bucks the kicket for good.
All this, just before my wife's birthday, and just in time for both my girls' birthdays, and Christmas! hah
But the alternator and battery are new!
so whatever, I still like my purchase I just picked up my first max, been a long time nissan fanatic for about 10 years now. all sr20s up until now. my max has a few issues shot motor mounts, stalls on hot restarts, rust. live and learn. it runs great. it seems to have a deadspot around 3800 i cant really figure out. i reset the computer and it temporarily solved the hot restart problem. the other issues i will figure out as i go but the 3800 power curve drives me nuts.
10-27-2010, 04:21 PM
#16
Member
Join Date: Mar 2004
Posts: 44
What year is your Maxima? What did you do to get the O2 sensor connector off? Is there a clip that needs to be pressed to release the electrical connector? I tried everything. No room behind the connector. Did you just pull it off? Mine will not budge! AHHH!!!
10-27-2010, 04:33 PM
#17
Member
Join Date: Mar 2004
Posts: 44
compliments of google image search.
Last edited by arak123; 10-27-2010 at 04:38 PM.
10-27-2010, 06:05 PM
#18
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Baton Rouge, LA
Posts: 487
10-28-2010, 07:36 AM
#20
you have a machine to adjust the timing?! I need to come see you. Colin and I are going to change our motor mounts at his school shop since he now has access to a press large enough YAY! he replaced his control arms and tie rods. it started squealing bad, and he thought the control arm was scraping on the back of the rotor, but turns out it was just the shield! we had fun with that last night. and I cant believe your car has that many miles, I thought it was less.
Good to hear you have access to a press, I'll be using ours over here when I get around to doing my motor mounts, it's certainly invaluable for jobs like that. And yeah, I bought the car with 146k on it, it just turned 156k the other day. Once I swap the trans, replace the radiator and motor mounts and that faulty O2 sensor (thinking about just doing that real quick before I gut all my cats and get some O2 sims), fix my EVAP problem and blower motor, and that PITA fuel level gauge, and the struts/springs, it'll be like a new car!!
till I need brakes, I know they're getting close.......
Last edited by BlackMacks; 11-01-2010 at 04:46 AM. Reason: forgot suspension :-p
10-28-2010, 01:26 PM
#21
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Baton Rouge, LA
Posts: 487
Yeah Tim, I was playing around with the Solus scanner we have over here, clearing out those pesky codes so my CEL will go out for a couple days, and I was just looking around and stumbled upon a "base ignition timing adjustment" menu. I think I'm using the thing right, but maybe I'm not, cause the one degree I think I pulled hasn't really reduced any of the preignition I'm hearing. It's taken kind of a backseat, tho, to my radiator and blower motor repairs, I'll get back to playing around with it, adjusting it, and driving it, once I've solved those two. It'd be no problem to plug into you and Colin's cars, once I've familiarized myself with the process so I have a better idea what I'm doin
Good to hear you have access to a press, I'll be using ours over here when I get around to doing my motor mounts, it's certainly invaluable for jobs like that. And yeah, I bought the car with 146k on it, it just turned 156k the other day. Once I swap the trans, replace the radiator and motor mounts and that faulty O2 sensor (thinking about just doing that real quick before I gut all my cats and get some O2 sims), fix my EVAP problem and blower motor, and that PITA fuel pressure gauge, it'll be like a new car!! till I need brakes, I know they're getting close.......
Good to hear you have access to a press, I'll be using ours over here when I get around to doing my motor mounts, it's certainly invaluable for jobs like that. And yeah, I bought the car with 146k on it, it just turned 156k the other day. Once I swap the trans, replace the radiator and motor mounts and that faulty O2 sensor (thinking about just doing that real quick before I gut all my cats and get some O2 sims), fix my EVAP problem and blower motor, and that PITA fuel pressure gauge, it'll be like a new car!!
till I need brakes, I know they're getting close.......yeah and cant forget the rust you probably have EVERYWHERE.
10-28-2010, 03:40 PM
#22
Surprisingly enough, and I've been under that car a LOT it's not rusty underneath- all those surfaces are coated/protected. It's just the unprotected surfaces that took a beatin, but I think I've managed to break just about everything that was gonna, by now
it's not rusty underneath- all those surfaces are coated/protected. It's just the unprotected surfaces that took a beatin, but I think I've managed to break just about everything that was gonna, by now
10-28-2010, 03:44 PM
#23
Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 20
i have a 1995 nissan maxima 3.0 engine.. I just replaced the water pump,thermostat and timing chain. When i put everything back together the car started fine. However it seems like i am not getting any power or spark to 3 of my coil packs.. Drives very sluggish feels like im in a 3 cylinder... Anyone have any sugesstions. I was wondering if theres a fuse or relay that controls the power to coil packs....
10-28-2010, 04:20 PM
#24
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Baton Rouge, LA
Posts: 487
you're driving a maxima, chuck. there are more breakable things than you can ever imagine lol
10-28-2010, 05:27 PM
#25
i have a 1995 nissan maxima 3.0 engine.. I just replaced the water pump,thermostat and timing chain. When i put everything back together the car started fine. However it seems like i am not getting any power or spark to 3 of my coil packs.. Drives very sluggish feels like im in a 3 cylinder... Anyone have any sugesstions. I was wondering if theres a fuse or relay that controls the power to coil packs....
10-29-2010, 08:13 AM
#26
I didn't realize you had knocking in that '08 Quest engine! That really sucks. =/
Still, you may be forgetting how much higher quality your Maxima is than most of its domestic counterparts...
The '00 - ~'05 Ford Tauruses all had a problem where Ford didn't put enough plastic above the cabin air filter housing to keep water from running inside. "Um... So what," you might ask. Well, that water drips through the filter and hits the blower motor. It either shorts out the motor or, in my case, shorts out the resistor that attaches to the bottom of the motor, just leaving you with the high fan speed that bypasses the resistor. The resistor is $18. I replaced it FOUR TIMES in the span of two or so years.
Ford released a TSB that addresses the problem. Yeah. $60 in parts to fix an inherent design flaw. When I walked into a local dealer to pick up the parts, the guy looked at what I'd ordered and laughed at me. "Leaking Taurus or Sable, eh?" ...Yeah, jerk.
The Taurus is filled with other problems like that. I gave up on mine after it blew a head gasket at 100K miles and some ground wire came loose in a harness beneath the exhaust manifold because the manifold was installed ON TOP of the harness and had slowly melted/ground the coatings off the wires, allowing them to flop freely about and short out more $25 resistors (The PCM's main resistor) when they connected with the wrong pieces of metal. While you were driving. On the highway.
My brother's '03 Taurus had to have a new transmission put in at 90K miles. Getting 180K+ miles out of one is... awesome. Sure, maybe some Honda transmissions can last longer, but there's no way any Ford or Chevy or (HAHAHAHA) Dodge automatic could last that long.
[/rant]
So if I bring my Maxima in to get the ECU flashed to remove the annoying hesitation, some people are claiming I will start getting pre-ignition problems? Uh... WTF??
Still, you may be forgetting how much higher quality your Maxima is than most of its domestic counterparts...
The '00 - ~'05 Ford Tauruses all had a problem where Ford didn't put enough plastic above the cabin air filter housing to keep water from running inside. "Um... So what," you might ask. Well, that water drips through the filter and hits the blower motor. It either shorts out the motor or, in my case, shorts out the resistor that attaches to the bottom of the motor, just leaving you with the high fan speed that bypasses the resistor. The resistor is $18. I replaced it FOUR TIMES in the span of two or so years.
Ford released a TSB that addresses the problem. Yeah. $60 in parts to fix an inherent design flaw. When I walked into a local dealer to pick up the parts, the guy looked at what I'd ordered and laughed at me. "Leaking Taurus or Sable, eh?" ...Yeah, jerk.
The Taurus is filled with other problems like that. I gave up on mine after it blew a head gasket at 100K miles and some ground wire came loose in a harness beneath the exhaust manifold because the manifold was installed ON TOP of the harness and had slowly melted/ground the coatings off the wires, allowing them to flop freely about and short out more $25 resistors (The PCM's main resistor) when they connected with the wrong pieces of metal. While you were driving. On the highway.
My brother's '03 Taurus had to have a new transmission put in at 90K miles. Getting 180K+ miles out of one is... awesome. Sure, maybe some Honda transmissions can last longer, but there's no way any Ford or Chevy or (HAHAHAHA) Dodge automatic could last that long.
[/rant]
So if I bring my Maxima in to get the ECU flashed to remove the annoying hesitation, some people are claiming I will start getting pre-ignition problems? Uh... WTF??
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
BPuff57
Advanced Suspension, Chassis, and Braking
33
04-16-2020 05:15 AM
maxima297
4th Generation Maxima (1995-1999)
4
09-30-2015 03:32 PM