ECM fried by IACV
08-09-2010, 01:25 PM
#1
It's business time.
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ECM fried by IACV
I know this has happened to some members in the past and was curious as to what my options were.
I had my car at my mechanic to fabricate a piece to fix the rusted out sub frame/radiator support bracket.
After they were done the car wouldn't start so I had to towed to Nissan (AAA).
Nissan says the IACV went bed and both it and the ECM need replaced.
$1,700 total. $1,200 parts need to be special ordered.
The car has 160k miles and I was planning on selling it within a year if not sooner.
What are my options here?
I had my car at my mechanic to fabricate a piece to fix the rusted out sub frame/radiator support bracket.
After they were done the car wouldn't start so I had to towed to Nissan (AAA).
Nissan says the IACV went bed and both it and the ECM need replaced.
$1,700 total. $1,200 parts need to be special ordered.
The car has 160k miles and I was planning on selling it within a year if not sooner.
What are my options here?
08-09-2010, 03:46 PM
#4
It seems that you will need a new ECM and IACV. IACV is ~250 and you can rebuild the ECM by sending it out or buying new STA509A chips of ebay and resoldering them in. Total should be $300. I did that about 2 months ago and runs great now.
No need for Nissan to reprogram the ECM if you just replace the chips.
No need for Nissan to reprogram the ECM if you just replace the chips.
08-09-2010, 03:58 PM
#5
Very common issue. From what I have gathered the IACV tend to fail at around 100k on them. And it does fry the ECU, happened to me. Bought a IACV at autozone and a ECU from car-parts.com for $130. Had to have it reprogrammed tho. Make sure to order an ECU from the same year and same transmission type.
08-09-2010, 04:05 PM
#6
has happened to me and it sucks
a new IACV is around 250 from the dealer...i got a used ECU for around 150 bucks from a junkyard and had the mechanic's friend reprogram it for me for 60 bucks...
btw, my radiator support is rusting through as well but im not gonna fix it unless the radiator falls of. The way i look at it, it the support holds up for another 3-4 yrs (which it will) then im good. By that time i would have over 250,000 miles on the car and any repairs at that point would be pointless...
a new IACV is around 250 from the dealer...i got a used ECU for around 150 bucks from a junkyard and had the mechanic's friend reprogram it for me for 60 bucks...
btw, my radiator support is rusting through as well but im not gonna fix it unless the radiator falls of. The way i look at it, it the support holds up for another 3-4 yrs (which it will) then im good. By that time i would have over 250,000 miles on the car and any repairs at that point would be pointless...
08-09-2010, 05:04 PM
#7
It's business time.
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Thanks, guys. First thing I'm going to do is call Nissan tomorrow and tell them I want to cash my car out for the $255 it cost them to diagnose the problem. I'm going to find a way to tow/trailer it back to my mechanic.
Next, should I jump on this? I know there is no way of telling whether it works, but, DAT PRICE! http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/USED-...Q5fAccessories
G3nis, do you have a link to the chips?
Next, should I jump on this? I know there is no way of telling whether it works, but, DAT PRICE! http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/USED-...Q5fAccessories
G3nis, do you have a link to the chips?
08-09-2010, 05:06 PM
#8
It's business time.
Thread Starter
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has happened to me and it sucks
a new IACV is around 250 from the dealer...i got a used ECU for around 150 bucks from a junkyard and had the mechanic's friend reprogram it for me for 60 bucks...
btw, my radiator support is rusting through as well but im not gonna fix it unless the radiator falls of. The way i look at it, it the support holds up for another 3-4 yrs (which it will) then im good. By that time i would have over 250,000 miles on the car and any repairs at that point would be pointless...
a new IACV is around 250 from the dealer...i got a used ECU for around 150 bucks from a junkyard and had the mechanic's friend reprogram it for me for 60 bucks...
btw, my radiator support is rusting through as well but im not gonna fix it unless the radiator falls of. The way i look at it, it the support holds up for another 3-4 yrs (which it will) then im good. By that time i would have over 250,000 miles on the car and any repairs at that point would be pointless...
About the radiator support, my engine was actually coming loose under the hood. I could hear and feel it through the pedal. It very well could have fallen out.
08-09-2010, 05:21 PM
#9
Member
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Long Island, NY
Posts: 32
My 02 sure has alot of rust underneath everywhere. If I didn't know better I'd swear it was under salt water for about a year. Did they forget to dip our cars. I already replaced the oil pan, it was rotted so bad I could have cut it open with a knife. Unfortunately I love the POS.
08-09-2010, 05:24 PM
#10
Thanks, guys. First thing I'm going to do is call Nissan tomorrow and tell them I want to cash my car out for the $255 it cost them to diagnose the problem. I'm going to find a way to tow/trailer it back to my mechanic.
Next, should I jump on this? I know there is no way of telling whether it works, but, DAT PRICE! http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/USED-...Q5fAccessories
G3nis, do you have a link to the chips?
Next, should I jump on this? I know there is no way of telling whether it works, but, DAT PRICE! http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/USED-...Q5fAccessories
G3nis, do you have a link to the chips?
frikin stealerships! Before having the car towed, i would ask the dealer if they would install and program a used ECU brought in by you. If you want to avoid the reprogramming, there is a seller on ebay who fixes fried ECUs. A couple of users have done business with him and have had a positive experience...I would never buy a used IACV specially considering the widespread nature of this problem (and besides, the ebay guy pulled that out of a dead maxima lol)
the guy had a consult tool
08-09-2010, 05:50 PM
#11
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wow 250 for a diagnostic? frikin stealerships! Before having the car towed, i would ask the dealer if they would install and program a used ECU brought in by you. If you want to avoid the reprogramming, there is a seller on ebay who fixes fried ECUs. A couple of users have done business with him and have had a positive experience...
I would never buy a used IACV specially considering the widespread nature of this problem (and besides, the ebay guy pulled that out of a dead maxima lol)
the guy had a consult tool
frikin stealerships! Before having the car towed, i would ask the dealer if they would install and program a used ECU brought in by you. If you want to avoid the reprogramming, there is a seller on ebay who fixes fried ECUs. A couple of users have done business with him and have had a positive experience...I would never buy a used IACV specially considering the widespread nature of this problem (and besides, the ebay guy pulled that out of a dead maxima lol)
the guy had a consult tool
Okay so could I have a the dealer install a used ECU? Do I have to remove mine first and send it to the guy for repair and then have them replace it out and reprogram?
Then after that I take it to my shop and have them put in the IACV?
08-09-2010, 07:04 PM
#12
I'm a new Maxima owner and these stories make me think twice about even messing with the IACV. Does anyone know why this happens? I have always clean IACVs in other vehicles, but I have never heard of fried ECMs because of an IACV.
What can I do to prevent this from happening if I try to clean it?
What can I do to prevent this from happening if I try to clean it?
08-10-2010, 05:42 AM
#13
I'm a new Maxima owner and these stories make me think twice about even messing with the IACV. Does anyone know why this happens? I have always clean IACVs in other vehicles, but I have never heard of fried ECMs because of an IACV.
What can I do to prevent this from happening if I try to clean it?
What can I do to prevent this from happening if I try to clean it?
08-10-2010, 06:00 AM
#14
Sure, best place is ebay: http://cgi.ebay.com/STA509A-2pcs-1-l...efaultDomain_0
Alternatively, you can send the whole ECM to Dave R and he will replace the chips and resolder for about $130
His name is David Ruberg
http://speedometerrepairguy.com/
1-507-429-4489
If you are feeling brave, there is a good write up: http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...d-seconds.html
Alternatively, you can send the whole ECM to Dave R and he will replace the chips and resolder for about $130
His name is David Ruberg
http://speedometerrepairguy.com/
1-507-429-4489
If you are feeling brave, there is a good write up: http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...d-seconds.html
08-10-2010, 06:22 AM
#15
It's business time.
Thread Starter
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Sure, best place is ebay: http://cgi.ebay.com/STA509A-2pcs-1-l...efaultDomain_0
Alternatively, you can send the whole ECM to Dave R and he will replace the chips and resolder for about $130
His name is David Ruberg
http://speedometerrepairguy.com/
1-507-429-4489
If you are feeling brave, there is a good write up: http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...d-seconds.html
Alternatively, you can send the whole ECM to Dave R and he will replace the chips and resolder for about $130
His name is David Ruberg
http://speedometerrepairguy.com/
1-507-429-4489
If you are feeling brave, there is a good write up: http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...d-seconds.html
The Dave Ruberg guy, does he have the chips or do I need to buy those and send them with the ECM?
Is it easy to remove the ECM myself? I haven't perused that part of the FSM ever.
So the tentative plan would be to order an IACV from Autozone, have my car towed back to my mechanic to have them put the IACV in. Meanwhile I have the ECM fixed by Dave R and reinstall without needing reprogramming.
How's that sound?
08-10-2010, 06:27 AM
#16
Very common issue. From what I have gathered the IACV tend to fail at around 100k on them. And it does fry the ECU, happened to me. Bought a IACV at autozone and a ECU from car-parts.com for $130. Had to have it reprogrammed tho. Make sure to order an ECU from the same year and same transmission type.
08-10-2010, 08:48 AM
#17
First thing, you're a 5MT and those that usually fry their ECU are the AT guys because of the electronic motor mounts that short out the ECU. So, chances are your ECU isn't fried... however, you can check this by simply opening up your ECU and looking for any burned chips. If not, then you should be fine.
08-10-2010, 09:41 AM
#18
I didn't replace the whole IACV, just took out the black sensor/motor part, screwed that back in so that I didn't have to deal with new rubber gaskets between the throttle body and IACV. Just remove the intake and it was simply to remove. I got the chips and soldered. ECM, you need a tiny open socket wrench, 8mm if I remember, and you have to be flexible to get next to your peddles. It was not hard, just took time to remove intakes, remove the screws from the ECM harness, etc.
Dave has the chips and will do the work for that price. Just say you are from the ORG.
Dave has the chips and will do the work for that price. Just say you are from the ORG.
08-10-2010, 10:27 AM
#19
It's business time.
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First thing, you're a 5MT and those that usually fry their ECU are the AT guys because of the electronic motor mounts that short out the ECU. So, chances are your ECU isn't fried... however, you can check this by simply opening up your ECU and looking for any burned chips. If not, then you should be fine.
Will simply a blown IACV cause the car not to start?
08-10-2010, 02:36 PM
#20
My IACV was the bouncing revs between 1500 and 3000 RPM's symptom. ECM wasn't fried (5MT).
08-10-2010, 05:47 PM
#21
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Well, seems like they know the common connection between IACV and ECM's going out together, but like I said, they will charge you whatever to fix it the first time then try to fix things one by one. They more than likely don't care how much you spend. That being said, why don't you start by checking your ECM for any burnt chips...you can't miss it. If there is, then you know your ECM is gone.
My IACV was the bouncing revs between 1500 and 3000 RPM's symptom. ECM wasn't fried (5MT).
My IACV was the bouncing revs between 1500 and 3000 RPM's symptom. ECM wasn't fried (5MT).
08-11-2010, 01:09 AM
#22
Well, seems like they know the common connection between IACV and ECM's going out together, but like I said, they will charge you whatever to fix it the first time then try to fix things one by one. They more than likely don't care how much you spend. That being said, why don't you start by checking your ECM for any burnt chips...you can't miss it. If there is, then you know your ECM is gone.
My IACV was the bouncing revs between 1500 and 3000 RPM's symptom. ECM wasn't fried (5MT).
My IACV was the bouncing revs between 1500 and 3000 RPM's symptom. ECM wasn't fried (5MT).
When my IACV was totally busted the revs didn't bounce. they stayed way low. When I somewhat depressed the throttle the car would start. Mind I have throttle by cable tho
08-13-2010, 09:52 AM
#24
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I'll be getting the car towed back from the stealer. I asked the service adviser and she said that the tech said he tested the wires from the ECM and that there was no signal going to the coils. That's how they determined it was the ECM.
I'll take a look at it when I get the car back.
I'll take a look at it when I get the car back.
08-14-2010, 09:40 PM
#27
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Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: NYC
Posts: 30
Sorry to hear that. This is the common problem with our 5th Max. I don't know how common this problem is. There is so many threads about fried ECU caused by IACV. When you search this forum, you will see numbers of good info. Some guy took off and sent the ECU repair guy. Some owners bought used ECUs and let stealers reset it. Anyway, you will need to get a IACV.
I just bought a 2000 SE with 100K miles on it, and now I am freaked out because that can happen to me too. I am looking for any suggestions to prevent this nightmare happening.
Anyway, Good luck fixing your car.
I just bought a 2000 SE with 100K miles on it, and now I am freaked out because that can happen to me too. I am looking for any suggestions to prevent this nightmare happening.
Anyway, Good luck fixing your car.
08-15-2010, 01:39 AM
#28
This reminds me, I've had my replacement (preventative) IACV in my parents garage for about a year. I need to get on this.
Good luck. Another option to get an IACV is through Dave B at South Point Nissan in TX. Is prices and service are good.
Good luck. Another option to get an IACV is through Dave B at South Point Nissan in TX. Is prices and service are good.
08-17-2010, 08:48 PM
#30
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Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Brooklyn, NY
Posts: 234
same thing happend to me too.. i bought everything from nissan ecm and iacv and also a spare key for $9000 flat.. i install it my self and got the ecm, iacv and key programed by nissan for an extra 60 bucks... ur best bet is to do what i did or just part it out my car has 163 and no one wants to pay 6000 the way it is.. good luck with what ever u do..
08-31-2010, 10:34 PM
#31
I paid the dealer to replace my IACV when I had them do my plugs last week. There was nothing wrong with my old IACV, I was just replacing it as a preventative measure. Now I have a P0505 for the IACV. Anyone else still get the code after replacing the IACV and assuming the ECU is fine? Motor mounts have been disconnected long back. Not sure how these guys would manage to mess up the installation of the IACV.
01 gle w/134.5k
01 gle w/134.5k
09-01-2010, 05:09 AM
#32
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Double dipping this post but I need an answer.
I'm having trouble removing the ECM.
I have the glovebox removed and kick panel and I removed the wire connector from the ECM but don't know how to take it off. I see screws all over the place.
Are the ones I'm looking for the brass/gold screws that lay horizontal along the front of it. Or are they the two 10 mm bolts with screw heads that bolts a bracket to the floor and lie vertical?
I'm having trouble removing the ECM.
I have the glovebox removed and kick panel and I removed the wire connector from the ECM but don't know how to take it off. I see screws all over the place.
Are the ones I'm looking for the brass/gold screws that lay horizontal along the front of it. Or are they the two 10 mm bolts with screw heads that bolts a bracket to the floor and lie vertical?
09-01-2010, 08:42 AM
#33
Take a picture. I have a feeling you're messing with the wrong piece. The ECM is probably ten inches to the RIGHT of the gas pedal. Remove the little plastic covers and you'll see the ECM. Four (4) 10mm bolts close to each corner... actually two on each long side.
09-01-2010, 10:35 AM
#35
It usually only happens to Auto trannys where the motor mounts are electric. The culprit being the mounts shorting the ECM... I believe the mounts and IACV share the same fuse/chip in the ECM.
Not sure where the How To is ... couldn't find it. I'd use an FSM
09-01-2010, 12:41 PM
#38
ECM is in the middle of the car in the 'bump' between the driver and passenger side firewall area. Just 4 screws needed, 8mm iirc. Several have put fuses to prevent this when putting a new ecu and worked great. Many posts on the org.
09-02-2010, 04:15 PM
#39
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One of the screws from the passenger side:
From the driver side:
Am I correct that those are the screws? They are a pain to get to and I need a go ahead before I start spending all the sweat and swear words I have in my body on this ****.
From the driver side:
Am I correct that those are the screws? They are a pain to get to and I need a go ahead before I start spending all the sweat and swear words I have in my body on this ****.