Anyone use Duralast Gold CMAX brake pads?
08-02-2010, 02:34 AM
#1
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Posts: 52
Anyone use Duralast Gold CMAX brake pads?
Was wondering if anyone uses the Duralast Gold CMAX (with rubberized shims) brake pads? Please note these are different from the standard Duralast Gold brake pads.
I was wondering if anyone had the same problems I have had below with the Duralast Gold CMAX pads with rubberized shims compared to the standard Duralast Gold pads?
Here is the problem I have been having with standard Duralast Gold pads:
I replaced my brakes on my 03 Maxima at 35K miles for the first time. I took it to the local cheap repair shop and they turned the rotors and replaced all the pads with Duralast Gold (NOT Cmax) pads.
When braking lightly at speeds normally above 40MPH, they squeak!. If you brake hard they don't squeak or if braking at low speeds.
The shop has replaced the pads both front and rear already, and the new pads still squeak exactly the same. I should mention there is nothing wrong with the braking or how the brakes feel. They feel just fine and brake just fine. It's just the damn annoying squeak! Sounds more from the front than the rear, but I could be wrong.
Can anyone help? Maybe a shim problem or something? Anyone else have this happen?
Any suggestions before I go back to the shop and complain again? What is reasonable to ask the shop to do to fix this?
Thank you!
I was wondering if anyone had the same problems I have had below with the Duralast Gold CMAX pads with rubberized shims compared to the standard Duralast Gold pads?
Here is the problem I have been having with standard Duralast Gold pads:
I replaced my brakes on my 03 Maxima at 35K miles for the first time. I took it to the local cheap repair shop and they turned the rotors and replaced all the pads with Duralast Gold (NOT Cmax) pads.
When braking lightly at speeds normally above 40MPH, they squeak!. If you brake hard they don't squeak or if braking at low speeds.
The shop has replaced the pads both front and rear already, and the new pads still squeak exactly the same. I should mention there is nothing wrong with the braking or how the brakes feel. They feel just fine and brake just fine. It's just the damn annoying squeak! Sounds more from the front than the rear, but I could be wrong.
Can anyone help? Maybe a shim problem or something? Anyone else have this happen?
Any suggestions before I go back to the shop and complain again? What is reasonable to ask the shop to do to fix this?
Thank you!
08-02-2010, 03:10 AM
#2
Worn Pads
A brake pad is comprised of steel backing with friction material attached to it. Application of the brakes produces hydraulic pressure that causes the brake pads (via brake calipers) to clamp down on the rotors (discs) creating friction. It is the friction of the pads against the rotors that slows and stops the vehicle. When the friction material on the pads wears down, it is time to change the pads. Some pads are equipped with a wear indicator, which is a small spring steel clip. When a pad is worn, this clip makes contact with the rotor and generates a high-pitched squeal, telling you that it is time to service the brakes. If the pad does not have a wear indicator, then when the pad has worn down to the steel backing it will grind into the rotor and need to be replaced. In this scenario, the rotor may have to be replaced as well, depending on how badly it was affected.
Glazed Pads and Rotors
Brake squeal can also occur when brake calipers stick and the brake stays partially applied. When this happens the pad is in constant contact with the rotor, producing excessive friction and thus heat. Overheated pads harden and crystallize. This glazing occurs on the rotors as well. The squealing sound is a result of these super hardened surfaces coming in contact with one another. Remember, it is the friction created by the brake pad against the rotor that stops a vehicle. When crystallization of pad and rotor occurs, there is much less friction. This results in diminished braking power and squealing brakes. At this point the pads must be replaced and the rotors resurfaced or replaced.
Broken Anti Rattle Clips
The brake pad is loosely held in place on the caliper by pad stays. An additional part called an anti rattle clip is used to secure the pad so that it will not vibrate or rattle when the brake is applied. If anti rattle clips are worn or broken, pad vibration will cause squealing. In this case, the clips must be replaced.
Lack of Pad Insulation or Insulation Shims
When a car comes from the factory, insulation shims are placed against the steel backing of the pad to insulate it from the brake caliper. This is necessary to prevent brake squeal. These shims eventually wear out or they are discarded when a brake job is performed. When the pads are replaced, either the shims must be replaced or silicone insulation gel must be applied to prevent squeal. If you had your front brakes replaced recently and they're squealing, take it back to the shop and make sure the shims were installed or gel was used.
Incorrect Rotor Surface Cut or No Surface Cut at All
When a brake job is performed, the rotors must be resurfaced to remove any glazing and return the surface to "true." First the rotor is machined to remove grooves and/or imperfection on the rotor surface. Once the rotor face is "true," a slow, non-directional finish is applied to the rotor face to ensure proper break-in of the pads. This process also insures that the pads don't ride up on the face of the rotor when braking. Riding up of the pads can cause a clicking noise, the breaking of anti rattle clips, or caliper pin wear. If the rotor is found to be too thin according to state inspection rules, it is discarded and replaced. It is important to note that if your pads were replaced without resurfacing the rotors, then squealing and pedal pulsation will probably occur.
http://autos.aol.com/article/brakes-squeal/
A brake pad is comprised of steel backing with friction material attached to it. Application of the brakes produces hydraulic pressure that causes the brake pads (via brake calipers) to clamp down on the rotors (discs) creating friction. It is the friction of the pads against the rotors that slows and stops the vehicle. When the friction material on the pads wears down, it is time to change the pads. Some pads are equipped with a wear indicator, which is a small spring steel clip. When a pad is worn, this clip makes contact with the rotor and generates a high-pitched squeal, telling you that it is time to service the brakes. If the pad does not have a wear indicator, then when the pad has worn down to the steel backing it will grind into the rotor and need to be replaced. In this scenario, the rotor may have to be replaced as well, depending on how badly it was affected.
Glazed Pads and Rotors
Brake squeal can also occur when brake calipers stick and the brake stays partially applied. When this happens the pad is in constant contact with the rotor, producing excessive friction and thus heat. Overheated pads harden and crystallize. This glazing occurs on the rotors as well. The squealing sound is a result of these super hardened surfaces coming in contact with one another. Remember, it is the friction created by the brake pad against the rotor that stops a vehicle. When crystallization of pad and rotor occurs, there is much less friction. This results in diminished braking power and squealing brakes. At this point the pads must be replaced and the rotors resurfaced or replaced.
Broken Anti Rattle Clips
The brake pad is loosely held in place on the caliper by pad stays. An additional part called an anti rattle clip is used to secure the pad so that it will not vibrate or rattle when the brake is applied. If anti rattle clips are worn or broken, pad vibration will cause squealing. In this case, the clips must be replaced.
Lack of Pad Insulation or Insulation Shims
When a car comes from the factory, insulation shims are placed against the steel backing of the pad to insulate it from the brake caliper. This is necessary to prevent brake squeal. These shims eventually wear out or they are discarded when a brake job is performed. When the pads are replaced, either the shims must be replaced or silicone insulation gel must be applied to prevent squeal. If you had your front brakes replaced recently and they're squealing, take it back to the shop and make sure the shims were installed or gel was used.
Incorrect Rotor Surface Cut or No Surface Cut at All
When a brake job is performed, the rotors must be resurfaced to remove any glazing and return the surface to "true." First the rotor is machined to remove grooves and/or imperfection on the rotor surface. Once the rotor face is "true," a slow, non-directional finish is applied to the rotor face to ensure proper break-in of the pads. This process also insures that the pads don't ride up on the face of the rotor when braking. Riding up of the pads can cause a clicking noise, the breaking of anti rattle clips, or caliper pin wear. If the rotor is found to be too thin according to state inspection rules, it is discarded and replaced. It is important to note that if your pads were replaced without resurfacing the rotors, then squealing and pedal pulsation will probably occur.
http://autos.aol.com/article/brakes-squeal/
08-02-2010, 05:33 PM
#4
is there a reason why you felt the need to start a second thread about the exact same problem?
http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...ey-squeak.html
stop buying cheap pads
http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...ey-squeak.html
stop buying cheap pads
08-03-2010, 12:46 AM
#11
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Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 52
is there a reason why you felt the need to start a second thread about the exact same problem?
http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...ey-squeak.html
stop buying cheap pads
http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...ey-squeak.html
stop buying cheap pads
If you bothered to read my question, on this thread I asked specifically about the CMAX pad and if anyone has used it and there experience and referenced my previous problem. That was NOT the quesion on my previous thread.......
08-03-2010, 10:19 AM
#12
you going to start another thread if you decide to go with different pads?
08-10-2010, 10:09 PM
#16
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Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 52
OK for those who care an update. I took my car back to the shop and had them replace my Duralast Gold pads with Duralast Gold CMAX pads with rubberized shims and new hardware. The cheap asians in the shop charged me an additional $68 bucks to change the pads front and rear! I shouldn't have had to pay anything! I didn't tell them to put on the Duralast Gold pads to begin with, they chose to put on those pads and should have fixed the squeaking problem themselves. If it took different pads to fix the problem - so be it. The shop should have absorbed the cost, not me!
But anyway, the CMAX pads feel exactly the same as the standard Gold pads when braking. It's only been a couple of hours, but no squeak (yet). Will update in a couple weeks to let you know if switching to the CMAX pads fixed the problem or not.
But anyway, the CMAX pads feel exactly the same as the standard Gold pads when braking. It's only been a couple of hours, but no squeak (yet). Will update in a couple weeks to let you know if switching to the CMAX pads fixed the problem or not.
Last edited by zcar@hotmail.com; 08-10-2010 at 11:04 PM.
08-10-2010, 10:55 PM
#17
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Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Lincoln, NE
Posts: 64
OK for those who care an update. I took my car back to the shop and had them replace my Duralast Gold pads with Duralast Gold CMAX pads with rubberized shims and new hardware. The cheap asians charged me an additional $68 bucks to change the pads front and rear! I shouldn't have had to pay anything! I didn't tell them to put on the Duralast Gold pads to begin with, they chose to put on those pads and should have fixed the squeaking problem themselves. If it took different pads to fix the problem - so be it. The shop should have absorbed the cost, not me!
But anyway, the CMAX pads feel exactly the same as the standard Gold pads when braking. It's only been a couple of hours, but no squeak (yet). Will update in a couple weeks to let you know if switching to the CMAX pads fixed the problem or not.
But anyway, the CMAX pads feel exactly the same as the standard Gold pads when braking. It's only been a couple of hours, but no squeak (yet). Will update in a couple weeks to let you know if switching to the CMAX pads fixed the problem or not.
So you expected the CMAX pads to feel a whole lot better than Gold pads?
08-10-2010, 11:03 PM
#18
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Posts: 52
08-11-2010, 06:26 AM
#19
I use these and only run into squeaking when the pads run low.
http://www.importrp.com/product.php?...&cat=37&page=1
I also replace rotors when replacing the pads just because it's easier.
http://www.importrp.com/product.php?...&cat=37&page=1
I also replace rotors when replacing the pads just because it's easier.
08-11-2010, 08:36 AM
#20
really?
you let them put those pads on and drove away after the work was done...thats on you
this could have been prevented if you had
1. done research on here about good pads
2. not tried to get the cheapest pads
3. done the work yourself
4. gone to a good shop for the work
charged me an additional $68 bucks to change the pads front and rear! I shouldn't have had to pay anything! I didn't tell them to put on the Duralast Gold pads to begin with, they chose to put on those pads and should have fixed the squeaking problem themselves.
1. done research on here about good pads
2. not tried to get the cheapest pads
3. done the work yourself
4. gone to a good shop for the work
08-11-2010, 06:41 PM
#21
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 52
really?
Yes
you let them put those pads on and drove away after the work was done...thats on you
I know, but I would have gotten nothing from them at all if I didn't pay more..
this could have been prevented if you had
1. done research on here about good pads
2. not tried to get the cheapest pads
3. done the work yourself
4. gone to a good shop for the work
Yes
you let them put those pads on and drove away after the work was done...thats on you
I know, but I would have gotten nothing from them at all if I didn't pay more..
this could have been prevented if you had
1. done research on here about good pads
2. not tried to get the cheapest pads
3. done the work yourself
4. gone to a good shop for the work
08-13-2010, 12:59 PM
#26
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Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 52
08-13-2010, 02:17 PM
#27
09-09-2010, 11:35 PM
#28
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Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 52
Thought I would give everyone an update on my issue. It's been about a month now and almost 600 miles since switching from the Duralast Gold to Duralast Gold Cmax brake pads and not one squeak! The Gold pads squealed in the first 100 miles, these have been great and NO NOISE WHATSOEVER! I think it has to do with the rubberized shim on the CMAX pads and that coincidentally the CMAX pads also come with new hardware as the Gold pads do not.
I should also mention that I previously stated the feel and grab of the brake pads felt the same on both Gold and Cmax pads - I was incorrect. The Cmax pads have more bite and more substantial feel that the Gold pads.
I am glad I had the pads changed and the squealing problem seems to be fixed. I appreciate the info everyone on here gave me that pinpointed the problem to the shims and/or hardware. Thank you
I should also mention that I previously stated the feel and grab of the brake pads felt the same on both Gold and Cmax pads - I was incorrect. The Cmax pads have more bite and more substantial feel that the Gold pads.
I am glad I had the pads changed and the squealing problem seems to be fixed. I appreciate the info everyone on here gave me that pinpointed the problem to the shims and/or hardware. Thank you
03-19-2011, 06:51 PM
#30
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Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 52
It's been about 9 months now and around 5000 miles since switching from the Duralast Gold to Duralast Gold Cmax brake pads and not one squeak either! Cmax is a much better product than the standard Duralast Gold!
03-21-2011, 05:34 AM
#31
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