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Old 07-29-2010, 04:30 PM   #1
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Custom LTB with headers mock up

Just some teaser pics for my custom LTB stage 1 to go around my cattman headers. Once this is welded I will follow up and then turn it into a stage 2.












It's not quite there yet. Needs a few tweaks. I made the ends out of one solid piece of mild steel instead of the way the other more popular one was made. Needs to be trimmed and spot welded then I will tig weld it. Then it will be painted with por 15 hardnose paint.
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Old 07-29-2010, 04:35 PM   #2
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Impressive, is your LTB2 design gonna be like the "other" one as well?
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Old 07-29-2010, 05:29 PM   #3
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not quite the same since I don't have one to copy. But I'll make the rear piece then add a couple extra bars to join the two
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Old 07-29-2010, 06:46 PM   #4
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interesting
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Old 07-30-2010, 04:45 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by knight_yyz View Post
Just some teaser pics for my custom LTB stage 1 to go around my cattman headers. Once this is welded I will follow up and then turn it into a stage 2.

It's not quite there yet. Needs a few tweaks. I made the ends out of one solid piece of mild steel instead of the way the other more popular one was made. Needs to be trimmed and spot welded then I will tig weld it. Then it will be painted with por 15 hardnose paint.
very cool man!

will the 'other' LTB not fit around the cattman headers? what about the OBX headers?

why not get a little crazy and come up with a stage 3?

B
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Old 07-30-2010, 05:09 AM   #6
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Knight, could you post the dimensions of the metal used so us DIY may be able to get the material ourselves to do this. What type of tubular mount to the control arms did u use. Did you have to cut a piece of metal into a circle then weld it to the tubular mount and then drill a hole so it would attach to the control arm? What size tube did you use to mount to the control arm..EX...1.5 in diameter by 1 inch deep..? What thickness was the plate used to weld to the back of the tubular mount and what size hole was drilled in it to mount to the control arms...

This has been something on my mind as well to DIY and add to the bottom..

Thanks
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Old 07-30-2010, 02:37 PM   #7
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The control arm mounts are one piece machined cups. I did not weld a washer like the other style out there. Mine should be stronger. The bar itself is 3/4 hydraulic tube thick wall.

The original tie bar may fit the OBX but I have no idea for sure. It definitely does not fit around the cattman. I already tried and have come up with this design.
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Old 07-30-2010, 02:49 PM   #8
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^^^^ knight for the machined cups how/where did you get them from...wait you said you are a machinist so did you do them yourself? Also to get the bar bent in the ways needed how did you go about that.
Ive been thinking of doing the same thing for a while now. Wondering since i dont have machine shop connections would getting say 2 pieces of tubing and then welding a thick enough plate on the back be strong enough for just Daily driving... thoughts..?
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Old 07-30-2010, 03:48 PM   #9
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Yes, I am a tool and die maker so I machined the cups to just fit the 27mm socket that you need to remove the bolt for the ID then made the OD a nice even number. Then I drilled the hole clearance hole per specs for a 20mm thread.
For the bar I used a hydraulic bender that we have at work that can bend up to 1.5 in diameter tube.
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Old 07-30-2010, 08:51 PM   #10
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Rodriguez77 has a stg 2 or 3 with OBX headers and a really beautiful clean fit....Knight, I glad you're thinking cause those infamous Blehmco LTB weren't thought out to well. The cups are too small so a socket can't fit on the Lower control nut and the socket...
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Old 07-31-2010, 01:51 AM   #11
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I agree, and I didn't like the 2 piece cup.
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Old 07-31-2010, 09:10 PM   #12
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I agree, and I didn't like the 2 piece cup.
I don't mind the 2 piece cup, It's just too dam small for sockets to fit within properly......
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Old 08-01-2010, 05:06 AM   #13
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mad props to the hood yo
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Old 08-01-2010, 07:56 AM   #14
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I haven't heard of a stage 3, I only just recently learned where the mounting points were located for the second stage.
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Old 08-01-2010, 09:42 AM   #15
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I'm not sure if there was a 3 either now that you mentioned it...but Rod77 had some nice shots under his car and I was really impressed that the OBX cleared the Blehmco LTB stg 2.....I can't do that with my Cattman headers installed! I would love to see how tying the suspension to the crossmember front and rear locations would work as well.....?
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Old 08-01-2010, 05:23 PM   #16
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Looking pretty good, good luck on it!
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Old 08-01-2010, 05:59 PM   #17
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There is no stage 3. There really is nothing to connect after stage 2 lol
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Old 08-02-2010, 02:09 AM   #18
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Stage 3 = attaching connections to SFC's IMO
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Old 08-03-2010, 07:11 PM   #19
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Quote:
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Rodriguez77 has a stg 2 or 3 with OBX headers and a really beautiful clean fit....Knight, I glad you're thinking cause those infamous Blehmco LTB weren't thought out to well. The cups are too small so a socket can't fit on the Lower control nut and the socket...
Please explain how it wasn't thought out too well.
I took a Craftsman and a Kobalt 27mm socket to the steel yard and fund tube that fit over both sockets, then made the rest of the bar fit around that.

They don't fit the Cattman headers since my design was done before the headers were out. Once they were out, nobody with the headers ever volunteered to come by my place for a test fit or I would have made a bar to fit them. Can't fix something like that if nobody helps. :shrug:
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