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Old 07-24-2010, 08:42 AM   #1
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SRI issue

Last year i installed a stillen intake on my car. The stillen intake does not delete the PCV box and the flex tube behind it. So yesterday i decided to go down to pep boys and pick up one of those chrome 6 inch tubes to delete the PCV box and flex tube so the air would go straight to the throttle body. Installation went smoothly and i placed one of those little filters on the valve cover where the PCV hose goes.

So now for the test drive, the car sounds much louder and i think better. The issue i am having is when the car hits 4800rpms to about 5500 rpms there feels like a lag, which i dont understand. I figured deleting the PCV box i would better air flow into the IM. Now, my car is not tuned, and i did not try the air idle relearn afterwards.

Has anyone else ever experienced this before?
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Old 07-24-2010, 08:56 AM   #2
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It's possible that the Stillen was designed & tested for use with the "pcv box" in place. By removing it, it possibly altered the design goal.
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Old 07-24-2010, 09:05 AM   #3
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Your problem is you bought a Stillen intake
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Old 07-24-2010, 09:14 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2000_MAXIMA_KING View Post
Your problem is you bought a Stillen intake

If i known back then what i know now i wouldn't have got it. I would have probably got a berk.
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Old 07-24-2010, 09:34 AM   #5
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The Stillen intake is not the problem. Several org members are using the Stillen, JWT, and/or generic intake adapters that use the venturi design and have obtained nice gains from it.

Also, the "PVC box" is known as a Helmholtz resonator. It is there to reduce intake sound, and oddly enough, it assists with low end torque.

You are having other issues non-related. I would check for air leaks. And what is this "flex tube" your are referring to? If it's what I think it is, that is more than likely your problem. Causes unwanted turbulence.

Pics?
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Old 07-24-2010, 09:47 AM   #6
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I'm not a fan of just putting a breather on the valve cover. It can let metered air escape, possibly creating problems.
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Old 07-24-2010, 09:53 AM   #7
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This is why I just have the gab mod
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Old 07-24-2010, 10:14 AM   #8
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I'm not a fan of just putting a breather on the valve cover. It can let metered air escape, possibly creating problems.
"Metered" air? Explain, please, because I'm pretty sure the only problems with using a breather filter are environmental ones.
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Old 07-24-2010, 10:26 AM   #9
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Originally Posted by nismopc View Post
The Stillen intake is not the problem. Several org members are using the Stillen, JWT, and/or generic intake adapters that use the venturi design and have obtained nice gains from it.

Also, the "PVC box" is known as a Helmholtz resonator. It is there to reduce intake sound, and oddly enough, it assists with low end torque.

You are having other issues non-related. I would check for air leaks. And what is this "flex tube" your are referring to? If it's what I think it is, that is more than likely your problem. Causes unwanted turbulence.

Pics?

no leaks, here is what i did.





here is the flex tube i was refering to:

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Old 07-24-2010, 10:43 AM   #10
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It looks like you have a solid 3" or 4" inches available to push that filter further away than you've got it here.

I like the little breather filter on the VC. Well, I like the look (very cool), although I think there are environmental reasons why you'd want to burn those oil vapors. Is there an issue with inspection? IDK.

btw, it's a nice thing, seeing clear quality photos.
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Old 07-24-2010, 10:46 AM   #11
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btw, it's a nice thing, seeing clear quality photos.

pics are great, except for my fat finger getting in the way on the top one lol
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Old 07-24-2010, 11:16 AM   #12
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looks like you were able to turn the crappy stillen intake into something pretty good
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Old 07-24-2010, 03:42 PM   #13
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Except now it doesn't work properly.
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Old 07-24-2010, 03:45 PM   #14
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nismopc has the most sense in this thread.

Removing the breather lets unmetered air in, thus creating a lean condition under no load/vacuum (idle). I've noticed this more so because I'm AT, since sparks didn't notice it very much. Search PCV on this forum and you'll see this has come up before. I ran a breather filter on my VC for years, and I'm back to having a line that goes post MAF now.

The stock Helmholtz helps with power delivery as well as throttle tip in. Myself and many others have seen this in dynos. The extra noise only nets 1-2 whp, and does not deliver power as smoothly, as noted by your feeling if the mid RPM band lag/loss/dip, basically it's not worth the noise.

The Stillen/JWT, IMO is the best intake for this car/engine.

FWIW, I have a JWT intake with my 3" MAF set-up and I found a way and made it a point to incorporate the Helmholtz as well.




Cripes I need to clean my engine bay.
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Old 07-24-2010, 07:07 PM   #15
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nismopc has the most sense in this thread.


Quote:
Originally Posted by NmexMAX
Cripes I need to clean my engine bay.
Go fast looking dirty, or go slow looking clean.
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Old 07-24-2010, 08:18 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by NmexMAX View Post
nismopc has the most sense in this thread.

Removing the breather lets unmetered air in, thus creating a lean condition under no load/vacuum (idle). I've noticed this more so because I'm AT, since sparks didn't notice it very much. Search PCV on this forum and you'll see this has come up before. I ran a breather filter on my VC for years, and I'm back to having a line that goes post MAF now.

The stock Helmholtz helps with power delivery as well as throttle tip in. Myself and many others have seen this in dynos. The extra noise only nets 1-2 whp, and does not deliver power as smoothly, as noted by your feeling if the mid RPM band lag/loss/dip, basically it's not worth the noise.

The Stillen/JWT, IMO is the best intake for this car/engine.

FWIW, I have a JWT intake with my 3" MAF set-up and I found a way and made it a point to incorporate the Helmholtz as well.




Cripes I need to clean my engine bay.
I've been saying that samething for over 2 yrs regarding throttle response tip in, that's why I still run with mine........I'm using a Vibrant Performance velocity stack and a 6" AEM....here's my dirty setup......



I thought about placing some jet engine DANGER decals near the intake to prevent anyone from getting injested into my engine.....LOL!!!!!!

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Old 07-24-2010, 08:28 PM   #17
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This is a reason why i love forums, within 12 hours i have all my answers. Thank you all, i decided to put the helmholtz unit back on. So now i might have a random intake piece for sale lol. The only thing i might do is try to extend the stillen intake a bit further to get it away from the heat.
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Old 07-24-2010, 08:32 PM   #18
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FWIW (since I'm 6 spd), there's no lean condition with the breather. It's exactly 14.7 at idle. It only gets more rich from there haha.

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Old 07-24-2010, 08:46 PM   #19
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This is a reason why i love forums, within 12 hours i have all my answers. Thank you all, i decided to put the helmholtz unit back on. So now i might have a random intake piece for sale lol. The only thing i might do is try to extend the stillen intake a bit further to get it away from the heat.
Extend it further to get the MAF sensor in more stabillzed air..... and add a little more torque!
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Old 07-25-2010, 07:49 AM   #20
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Originally Posted by NmexMAX View Post
nismopc has the most sense in this thread.

Removing the breather lets unmetered air in, thus creating a lean condition under no load/vacuum (idle). I've noticed this more so because I'm AT, since sparks didn't notice it very much. Search PCV on this forum and you'll see this has come up before. I ran a breather filter on my VC for years, and I'm back to having a line that goes post MAF now.

The stock Helmholtz helps with power delivery as well as throttle tip in. Myself and many others have seen this in dynos. The extra noise only nets 1-2 whp, and does not deliver power as smoothly, as noted by your feeling if the mid RPM band lag/loss/dip, basically it's not worth the noise.

The Stillen/JWT, IMO is the best intake for this car/engine.

FWIW, I have a JWT intake with my 3" MAF set-up and I found a way and made it a point to incorporate the Helmholtz as well.




Cripes I need to clean my engine bay.
Although not mentioned, engines are designed to operate with negative pressure inside the crank case...specifically at higher rpm's. This helps to seal the rings and aid in maintaining compression as well as reducing blowby. So, by installing that filter (aside from any environmental gloom and doom), you are preventing your engine from running as efficiently and placing additional strain on your rings/engine. The PVC/recirculating system is NOT just about oil vapors and emissions.
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Old 07-25-2010, 08:36 AM   #21
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Originally Posted by Chris Gregg View Post
Although not mentioned, engines are designed to operate with negative pressure inside the crank case...specifically at higher rpm's. This helps to seal the rings and aid in maintaining compression as well as reducing blowby. So, by installing that filter (aside from any environmental gloom and doom), you are preventing your engine from running as efficiently and placing additional strain on your rings/engine. The PVC/recirculating system is NOT just about oil vapors and emissions.
What does it matter if it's connected to the intake or to open air? It's still getting the air in/out regardless.

Seems like pretty much all the older nissan guys run a breather...just sayin.
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Old 07-25-2010, 09:02 AM   #22
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I'm so torn! Chris wrote a post that speaks to conventional wisdom, but Korn reps for the "older nissan guys". Alliances in conflict.
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Old 07-25-2010, 10:20 AM   #23
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Ok, here's my intake question. If you could get ONE 3" I.D. Pipe with breather and MAF plugs built right in, wouldn't that be best?? I don't think I've seen that... Everyone always has filter/stack -> MAF housing -> coupler -> pipe w/ breather plug -> TB...... What if we could just have filter/stack -> 3" I.D. Pipe with plugs for MAF & Breather hose -> TB??? It seems to me that if someone somehow made this, there'd be a big market for it here on the org. Wouldn't it reduce intake turbulence due to having fewer joints/edges? Just my thoughts...
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Old 07-25-2010, 11:51 AM   #24
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Although not mentioned, engines are designed to operate with negative pressure inside the crank case...specifically at higher rpm's. This helps to seal the rings and aid in maintaining compression as well as reducing blowby. So, by installing that filter (aside from any environmental gloom and doom), you are preventing your engine from running as efficiently and placing additional strain on your rings/engine. The PVC/recirculating system is NOT just about oil vapors and emissions.
that's the same thing I was taught....as well!
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Old 07-25-2010, 01:25 PM   #25
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I'm so torn! Chris wrote a post that speaks to conventional wisdom, but Korn reps for the "older nissan guys". Alliances in conflict.
Then I'll extend it to say most everyone with a modded engine runs a breather (even bikes).

It's obvious that it must be better for a lot of applications. I think it's importance is being overblown.
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Old 07-25-2010, 02:03 PM   #26
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most everyone with a modded engine runs a breather (even bikes)
is that fact? if so, proof?

or an opinion?
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Old 07-25-2010, 02:07 PM   #27
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my setup (frankencar/berk hybrid) seemed to work fine for me

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Old 07-25-2010, 03:13 PM   #28
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It's pretty easy to see how this can let metered air escape. With the stock setup, once the air passes through the MAF, it has only one place to go in the end, and that's out the exhaust. It is a sealed system. Now if the breather hose was before the MAF from the factory, then it wouldn't make a difference.

This is similar to when people put atmospheric blow off valves on WRX's, you are letting metered air out, and the computer thinks that air is still there, so it runs rich while shifting.

Now I doubt that anyone will notice a real difference with running a breather but I chose to keep my stock Helmholtz resonator like CMax, as this is the best all around setup.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Child_uv_KoRn View Post
What does it matter if it's connected to the intake or to open air? It's still getting the air in/out regardless.

Seems like pretty much all the older nissan guys run a breather...just sayin.
You correct, but the air that it is letting in and out has already been measured by the MAF sensor. Like I said above, if the stock hose was before the MAF, then it would not matter (not that it really matters anyway).

TB - Helmholtz Resonator - MAF - Adapter - 6" Velocity stack/AEM Dryflow
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Old 07-25-2010, 03:17 PM   #29
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If you leave the factory air scoop in place and have the filter installed on velocity stack @the MAF that leaves the filter right behind the incoming air from the scoop. Is that not the best way to go, having cooler air @ the filter when in motion?
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Old 07-25-2010, 03:20 PM   #30
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If you leave the factory air scoop in place and have the filter installed on velocity stack @the MAF that leaves the filter right behind the incoming air from the scoop. Is that not the best way to go, having cooler air @ the filter when in motion?
It could help. I just took mine out to clear out the engine bay. Maybe someone has some IAT logs...
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Old 07-25-2010, 03:39 PM   #31
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If you leave the factory air scoop in place and have the filter installed on velocity stack @the MAF that leaves the filter right behind the incoming air from the scoop. Is that not the best way to go, having cooler air @ the filter when in motion?
with all the surface area of a cone filter, i doubt that scoop does anything...its needed with the stock setup, because its all sealed
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Old 07-25-2010, 04:26 PM   #32
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my setup (frankencar/berk hybrid) seemed to work fine for me
Same here, with a frankencar SRI and apexi filter. Although I don't know any different to say otherwise.

Oh, and I never, ever run with a filter as dirty as the one in that picture.
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Old 07-25-2010, 04:28 PM   #33
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If you leave the factory air scoop in place and have the filter installed on velocity stack @the MAF that leaves the filter right behind the incoming air from the scoop. Is that not the best way to go, having cooler air @ the filter when in motion?
The factory scoop isn't a "scoop" in the sense that you're forcing fresh air up against the cone filter. It's just the outside air source for a closed system. Once the negative pressure is gone, I can't imagine that little slit doing anything except taking up space in the engine bay.
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NWP phenolic intake spacers, Cattman y-pipe, Cattman 2.5" cat-back, Frankencar short-ram intake, Apexi pop charger, VIAS-delete NWP block plate, Unorthodox Racing crank pulley,
NWP engine torque link, Tokico HP Blue struts, Progress rear sway bar, Racingline FSTB, sub-frame collars, Energy Suspension bushings (torque mounts, LCA's, sub-mount, FSB, shifter & shifter assembly), Sprint Booster, Short-throw shifter mod, Centric rotors, Hawk HPS pads, Goodyear Eagle F1's -- 62,000 original owner miles
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Old 07-25-2010, 05:05 PM   #34
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Originally Posted by Rochester View Post
Same here, with a frankencar SRI and apexi filter. Although I don't know any different to say otherwise.

Oh, and I never, ever run with a filter as dirty as the one in that picture.
it isnt actually that dirty...but i did change it the day after taking the pic
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Old 07-25-2010, 05:57 PM   #35
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I like a clean air filter.

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I'd use more colloquialisms to make my point, but the well's gone dry. . .



NWP phenolic intake spacers, Cattman y-pipe, Cattman 2.5" cat-back, Frankencar short-ram intake, Apexi pop charger, VIAS-delete NWP block plate, Unorthodox Racing crank pulley,
NWP engine torque link, Tokico HP Blue struts, Progress rear sway bar, Racingline FSTB, sub-frame collars, Energy Suspension bushings (torque mounts, LCA's, sub-mount, FSB, shifter & shifter assembly), Sprint Booster, Short-throw shifter mod, Centric rotors, Hawk HPS pads, Goodyear Eagle F1's -- 62,000 original owner miles
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Old 07-25-2010, 06:11 PM   #36
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This poster measured the intake temp. I beleive "the little slit" does help.
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Old 07-25-2010, 06:23 PM   #37
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is that fact? if so, proof?

or an opinion?
OK, ya got me , I'm sure there's no stats, but from all the engine bay pics, etc I see of moderately/heavily modified cars, I can't say anyone has it hooked up.
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Old 07-25-2010, 06:28 PM   #38
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Go fast looking dirty, or go slow looking clean.
agreed lol.... im in the process of changing to a custom intake so are you guys saying do not use the breather on the VC??? my goodness i'd never think intake would have gottn me this puzzled
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Hustle you manage to pull 13.7 in 1/4 mile and I have 6 speed and better bolt ons(I THINK).
DCMAX current mods- 4th gen intake, 2.5" custom catback, NWP block off plate, 00SE tailight w/overlays, Rewired fog lights, Eyelid, JIC coilovers, FSTB, 3.0 OBX headers, SSIM...
00 Sterling GXE- 15.0 (ebay intake, exhaust) my next love and beauty (crashed n sold)
02 Sterling GLE- 13.704@100 2.0' street tires http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jlvEqClE9R0
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Old 07-25-2010, 06:30 PM   #39
I see what you did there
 
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I say use the breather as it was intended, connected pre-maf/post TB. Just my opinion though.
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It's like killing ants with a rocket launcher ....

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Old 07-25-2010, 06:38 PM   #40
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i think ive given up on this research, im just gonna do Coupler-MAF-Filter and breather on the VC, whatever happens, happens
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tedo007 View Post
Hustle you manage to pull 13.7 in 1/4 mile and I have 6 speed and better bolt ons(I THINK).
DCMAX current mods- 4th gen intake, 2.5" custom catback, NWP block off plate, 00SE tailight w/overlays, Rewired fog lights, Eyelid, JIC coilovers, FSTB, 3.0 OBX headers, SSIM...
00 Sterling GXE- 15.0 (ebay intake, exhaust) my next love and beauty (crashed n sold)
02 Sterling GLE- 13.704@100 2.0' street tires http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jlvEqClE9R0
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