5th Generation Maxima (2000-2003)Learn more about the 5th Generation Maxima, including the VQ30DE-K and VQ35DE engines.
Welcome to Maxima.org!
Welcome to Maxima.org,
You are currently viewing our forum as a guest, which gives you limited access
to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our community, at no cost, you will have access to start new topics, reply to conversations, privately message other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is free, fast and simple, so please join Maxima.org today!
Last year i installed a stillen intake on my car. The stillen intake does not delete the PCV box and the flex tube behind it. So yesterday i decided to go down to pep boys and pick up one of those chrome 6 inch tubes to delete the PCV box and flex tube so the air would go straight to the throttle body. Installation went smoothly and i placed one of those little filters on the valve cover where the PCV hose goes.
So now for the test drive, the car sounds much louder and i think better. The issue i am having is when the car hits 4800rpms to about 5500 rpms there feels like a lag, which i dont understand. I figured deleting the PCV box i would better air flow into the IM. Now, my car is not tuned, and i did not try the air idle relearn afterwards.
The Stillen intake is not the problem. Several org members are using the Stillen, JWT, and/or generic intake adapters that use the venturi design and have obtained nice gains from it.
Also, the "PVC box" is known as a Helmholtz resonator. It is there to reduce intake sound, and oddly enough, it assists with low end torque.
You are having other issues non-related. I would check for air leaks. And what is this "flex tube" your are referring to? If it's what I think it is, that is more than likely your problem. Causes unwanted turbulence.
Pics?
__________________
Custom Short Ram Intake - Custom VIAS Block Off Plate - Custom Short Throw Shifter
Ralco RZ Performance Pulley - 2.5" SS Cat-Back Exhaust - Maxspeed Springs w/KYB GR2's
17" 6-spoke G35 Coupe Rims - 245/45-17 Firestone Firehawk GTz's - 5th Gen GLE Taillights
I'm not a fan of just putting a breather on the valve cover. It can let metered air escape, possibly creating problems.
__________________
2002 Maxima SE 6MT:
Black on Black. Loaded.
Performance:
HLSD, OBX v2 Headers, Custom 2.5" Exhaust, DIY VIAS Delete, NWP's Intake Spacers, ES Motor Mount Inserts, ES Rear Trailing Arm Inserts, ES Front Sway Bar Bushings, ES Shifter Bushings, Moog Endlinks, Progress RSB, Lowered on Eibach's, Innovate LC-1 Wideband, Apexi VAFC-II, Custom Short Ram Intake with Velocity Stack, 6th Gen BBK.
Appearance:
Fresh Paint at my Dad's shop, 01 SE Black Tails, AE Replica Rear Lip, Sunroof fin delete.
The Stillen intake is not the problem. Several org members are using the Stillen, JWT, and/or generic intake adapters that use the venturi design and have obtained nice gains from it.
Also, the "PVC box" is known as a Helmholtz resonator. It is there to reduce intake sound, and oddly enough, it assists with low end torque.
You are having other issues non-related. I would check for air leaks. And what is this "flex tube" your are referring to? If it's what I think it is, that is more than likely your problem. Causes unwanted turbulence.
It looks like you have a solid 3" or 4" inches available to push that filter further away than you've got it here.
I like the little breather filter on the VC. Well, I like the look (very cool), although I think there are environmental reasons why you'd want to burn those oil vapors. Is there an issue with inspection? IDK.
btw, it's a nice thing, seeing clear quality photos.
__________________
I'd use more colloquialisms to make my point, but the well's gone dry. . .
NWP phenolic intake spacers, Cattman y-pipe, Cattman 2.5" cat-back, Frankencar short-ram intake, Apexi pop charger, VIAS-delete NWP block plate, Unorthodox Racing crank pulley, NWP engine torque link, Tokico HP Blue struts, Progress rear sway bar, Racingline FSTB, sub-frame collars, Energy Suspension bushings (torque mounts, LCA's, sub-mount, FSB, shifter & shifter assembly), Sprint Booster, Short-throw shifter mod, Centric rotors, Hawk HPS pads, Goodyear Eagle F1's -- 62,000 original owner miles
Removing the breather lets unmetered air in, thus creating a lean condition under no load/vacuum (idle). I've noticed this more so because I'm AT, since sparks didn't notice it very much. Search PCV on this forum and you'll see this has come up before. I ran a breather filter on my VC for years, and I'm back to having a line that goes post MAF now.
The stock Helmholtz helps with power delivery as well as throttle tip in. Myself and many others have seen this in dynos. The extra noise only nets 1-2 whp, and does not deliver power as smoothly, as noted by your feeling if the mid RPM band lag/loss/dip, basically it's not worth the noise.
The Stillen/JWT, IMO is the best intake for this car/engine.
FWIW, I have a JWT intake with my 3" MAF set-up and I found a way and made it a point to incorporate the Helmholtz as well.
Cripes I need to clean my engine bay.
__________________ 03 SE 4AT 242whp/238wtq
95 SE 4AT 235k Miles
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nealoc187
It's like killing ants with a rocket launcher ....
Removing the breather lets unmetered air in, thus creating a lean condition under no load/vacuum (idle). I've noticed this more so because I'm AT, since sparks didn't notice it very much. Search PCV on this forum and you'll see this has come up before. I ran a breather filter on my VC for years, and I'm back to having a line that goes post MAF now.
The stock Helmholtz helps with power delivery as well as throttle tip in. Myself and many others have seen this in dynos. The extra noise only nets 1-2 whp, and does not deliver power as smoothly, as noted by your feeling if the mid RPM band lag/loss/dip, basically it's not worth the noise.
The Stillen/JWT, IMO is the best intake for this car/engine.
FWIW, I have a JWT intake with my 3" MAF set-up and I found a way and made it a point to incorporate the Helmholtz as well.
Cripes I need to clean my engine bay.
I've been saying that samething for over 2 yrs regarding throttle response tip in, that's why I still run with mine........I'm using a Vibrant Performance velocity stack and a 6" AEM....here's my dirty setup......
I thought about placing some jet engine DANGER decals near the intake to prevent anyone from getting injested into my engine.....LOL!!!!!!
This is a reason why i love forums, within 12 hours i have all my answers. Thank you all, i decided to put the helmholtz unit back on. So now i might have a random intake piece for sale lol. The only thing i might do is try to extend the stillen intake a bit further to get it away from the heat.
This is a reason why i love forums, within 12 hours i have all my answers. Thank you all, i decided to put the helmholtz unit back on. So now i might have a random intake piece for sale lol. The only thing i might do is try to extend the stillen intake a bit further to get it away from the heat.
Extend it further to get the MAF sensor in more stabillzed air..... and add a little more torque!
Removing the breather lets unmetered air in, thus creating a lean condition under no load/vacuum (idle). I've noticed this more so because I'm AT, since sparks didn't notice it very much. Search PCV on this forum and you'll see this has come up before. I ran a breather filter on my VC for years, and I'm back to having a line that goes post MAF now.
The stock Helmholtz helps with power delivery as well as throttle tip in. Myself and many others have seen this in dynos. The extra noise only nets 1-2 whp, and does not deliver power as smoothly, as noted by your feeling if the mid RPM band lag/loss/dip, basically it's not worth the noise.
The Stillen/JWT, IMO is the best intake for this car/engine.
FWIW, I have a JWT intake with my 3" MAF set-up and I found a way and made it a point to incorporate the Helmholtz as well.
Cripes I need to clean my engine bay.
Although not mentioned, engines are designed to operate with negative pressure inside the crank case...specifically at higher rpm's. This helps to seal the rings and aid in maintaining compression as well as reducing blowby. So, by installing that filter (aside from any environmental gloom and doom), you are preventing your engine from running as efficiently and placing additional strain on your rings/engine. The PVC/recirculating system is NOT just about oil vapors and emissions.
Although not mentioned, engines are designed to operate with negative pressure inside the crank case...specifically at higher rpm's. This helps to seal the rings and aid in maintaining compression as well as reducing blowby. So, by installing that filter (aside from any environmental gloom and doom), you are preventing your engine from running as efficiently and placing additional strain on your rings/engine. The PVC/recirculating system is NOT just about oil vapors and emissions.
What does it matter if it's connected to the intake or to open air? It's still getting the air in/out regardless.
Seems like pretty much all the older nissan guys run a breather...just sayin.
Ok, here's my intake question. If you could get ONE 3" I.D. Pipe with breather and MAF plugs built right in, wouldn't that be best?? I don't think I've seen that... Everyone always has filter/stack -> MAF housing -> coupler -> pipe w/ breather plug -> TB...... What if we could just have filter/stack -> 3" I.D. Pipe with plugs for MAF & Breather hose -> TB??? It seems to me that if someone somehow made this, there'd be a big market for it here on the org. Wouldn't it reduce intake turbulence due to having fewer joints/edges? Just my thoughts...
__________________ Cattman Headers/Y-pipe/Fastcat | Cattman 3" Catback | NWP Spacers | VAIS Block Plate | GAB
DR Mod w/ WOT Switch | 17˚ Advance | Orion V2 Angel Eyes | 8000K HID Fogs & Headlights | Blue LED Interior
Although not mentioned, engines are designed to operate with negative pressure inside the crank case...specifically at higher rpm's. This helps to seal the rings and aid in maintaining compression as well as reducing blowby. So, by installing that filter (aside from any environmental gloom and doom), you are preventing your engine from running as efficiently and placing additional strain on your rings/engine. The PVC/recirculating system is NOT just about oil vapors and emissions.
It's pretty easy to see how this can let metered air escape. With the stock setup, once the air passes through the MAF, it has only one place to go in the end, and that's out the exhaust. It is a sealed system. Now if the breather hose was before the MAF from the factory, then it wouldn't make a difference.
This is similar to when people put atmospheric blow off valves on WRX's, you are letting metered air out, and the computer thinks that air is still there, so it runs rich while shifting.
Now I doubt that anyone will notice a real difference with running a breather but I chose to keep my stock Helmholtz resonator like CMax, as this is the best all around setup.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Child_uv_KoRn
What does it matter if it's connected to the intake or to open air? It's still getting the air in/out regardless.
Seems like pretty much all the older nissan guys run a breather...just sayin.
You correct, but the air that it is letting in and out has already been measured by the MAF sensor. Like I said above, if the stock hose was before the MAF, then it would not matter (not that it really matters anyway).
__________________
2002 Maxima SE 6MT:
Black on Black. Loaded.
Performance:
HLSD, OBX v2 Headers, Custom 2.5" Exhaust, DIY VIAS Delete, NWP's Intake Spacers, ES Motor Mount Inserts, ES Rear Trailing Arm Inserts, ES Front Sway Bar Bushings, ES Shifter Bushings, Moog Endlinks, Progress RSB, Lowered on Eibach's, Innovate LC-1 Wideband, Apexi VAFC-II, Custom Short Ram Intake with Velocity Stack, 6th Gen BBK.
Appearance:
Fresh Paint at my Dad's shop, 01 SE Black Tails, AE Replica Rear Lip, Sunroof fin delete.
If you leave the factory air scoop in place and have the filter installed on velocity stack @the MAF that leaves the filter right behind the incoming air from the scoop. Is that not the best way to go, having cooler air @ the filter when in motion?
If you leave the factory air scoop in place and have the filter installed on velocity stack @the MAF that leaves the filter right behind the incoming air from the scoop. Is that not the best way to go, having cooler air @ the filter when in motion?
It could help. I just took mine out to clear out the engine bay. Maybe someone has some IAT logs...
__________________
2002 Maxima SE 6MT:
Black on Black. Loaded.
Performance:
HLSD, OBX v2 Headers, Custom 2.5" Exhaust, DIY VIAS Delete, NWP's Intake Spacers, ES Motor Mount Inserts, ES Rear Trailing Arm Inserts, ES Front Sway Bar Bushings, ES Shifter Bushings, Moog Endlinks, Progress RSB, Lowered on Eibach's, Innovate LC-1 Wideband, Apexi VAFC-II, Custom Short Ram Intake with Velocity Stack, 6th Gen BBK.
Appearance:
Fresh Paint at my Dad's shop, 01 SE Black Tails, AE Replica Rear Lip, Sunroof fin delete.
If you leave the factory air scoop in place and have the filter installed on velocity stack @the MAF that leaves the filter right behind the incoming air from the scoop. Is that not the best way to go, having cooler air @ the filter when in motion?
with all the surface area of a cone filter, i doubt that scoop does anything...its needed with the stock setup, because its all sealed
If you leave the factory air scoop in place and have the filter installed on velocity stack @the MAF that leaves the filter right behind the incoming air from the scoop. Is that not the best way to go, having cooler air @ the filter when in motion?
The factory scoop isn't a "scoop" in the sense that you're forcing fresh air up against the cone filter. It's just the outside air source for a closed system. Once the negative pressure is gone, I can't imagine that little slit doing anything except taking up space in the engine bay.
__________________
I'd use more colloquialisms to make my point, but the well's gone dry. . .
NWP phenolic intake spacers, Cattman y-pipe, Cattman 2.5" cat-back, Frankencar short-ram intake, Apexi pop charger, VIAS-delete NWP block plate, Unorthodox Racing crank pulley, NWP engine torque link, Tokico HP Blue struts, Progress rear sway bar, Racingline FSTB, sub-frame collars, Energy Suspension bushings (torque mounts, LCA's, sub-mount, FSB, shifter & shifter assembly), Sprint Booster, Short-throw shifter mod, Centric rotors, Hawk HPS pads, Goodyear Eagle F1's -- 62,000 original owner miles
OK, ya got me , I'm sure there's no stats, but from all the engine bay pics, etc I see of moderately/heavily modified cars, I can't say anyone has it hooked up.
agreed lol.... im in the process of changing to a custom intake so are you guys saying do not use the breather on the VC??? my goodness i'd never think intake would have gottn me this puzzled
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by tedo007
Hustle you manage to pull 13.7 in 1/4 mile and I have 6 speed and better bolt ons(I THINK).
DCMAX current mods- 4th gen intake, 2.5" custom catback, NWP block off plate, 00SE tailight w/overlays, Rewired fog lights, Eyelid, JIC coilovers, FSTB, 3.0 OBX headers, SSIM...
00 Sterling GXE- 15.0 (ebay intake, exhaust) my next love and beauty (crashed n sold)
02 Sterling GLE- 13.704@100 2.0' street tires http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jlvEqClE9R0
i think ive given up on this research, im just gonna do Coupler-MAF-Filter and breather on the VC, whatever happens, happens
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by tedo007
Hustle you manage to pull 13.7 in 1/4 mile and I have 6 speed and better bolt ons(I THINK).
DCMAX current mods- 4th gen intake, 2.5" custom catback, NWP block off plate, 00SE tailight w/overlays, Rewired fog lights, Eyelid, JIC coilovers, FSTB, 3.0 OBX headers, SSIM...
00 Sterling GXE- 15.0 (ebay intake, exhaust) my next love and beauty (crashed n sold)
02 Sterling GLE- 13.704@100 2.0' street tires http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jlvEqClE9R0