VQ35 swap tips/lessons learned, etc.....
05-27-2010, 03:24 PM
#1
VQ35 swap tips/lessons learned, etc.....
In no particular order (my mind isn't that organized
) and this is relating to my recent '08 Quest VQ35DE swap-in to my '02, so engine "specifics" may not all apply.....
Be prepared to replace your belt tensioner assemblies, both main and power steering. My main had rusted solid and snapped when I tried to loosen it. The power steering tensioner was a casualty of the RH CV axle's carrier bearing space requirement.
The PS pump, A/C comp, and Alternator can all be removed from the engine and left connected to the car ( well, the alternator comes out and you can just put it somewhere ) I highly recommend lots and lots of Twister or the like, and socket extensions. Also, air tools come in super handy. Remove the radiator and fans. Take the complete airbox out, set it somewhere. Same with the battery.
The main engine harness, just disconnect every plug starting from the pass side rear of the engine compartment until you run out over by the battery, and tuck it under a wiper. Removal of the hood is pretty much the first thing you'll want to do, sorry if I'm getting "elementary" here.....
Buy new belts, hoses, and exhaust manifold gaskets. Disconnect the exhaust in front of the main cat- be prepared to grind/cut/drill it apart, you'll want that new gasket, too, and perhaps some 7/16" bolts and nuts to put it back together-the Y pipe assembly comes out with the engine.
The axles can be removed by taking the top two strut bolts out, and the tie rod end. Just back off the tie rod end's lock nut and give the knuckle a few friendly wacks with a 5lb sledge, it'll pop right out. Make sure you've removed the ABS sensor before letting the hub and brake caliper assy tug on it. This is where those extensions come in handy- getting to the carrier bearings bolts. You'll want to jack the power steering pump as high as it'll go to make room for the bearing's brace. You have to loosen the "front face" nuts on both tensioners before they will move.
You're going to need the car high enough to lower the engine and trans out from the bottom. The pass side motor mount is a weird thing, one bolt from underneath, one up top, and one hiding somewhere else, I forget. You'll figure it out when you get to it- if you don't disassemble it right, you won't be able to drop the engine- you'll see it. The trans mount is just the one bolt. Disconnect your shifter linkage and trans cooler lines, and heater core hoses, and fuel line. All that stays with the car, if it's easier. Go ahead and remove the crank position sensor from the front of the engine so it isn't bothered during the next few steps.
Support the engine and trans assy with something wide and flat to evenly distribute the weight- a "transmission" jack works here, and remove the crossmember bolts. You should be ready to drop it at this point, slow and easy, snaking the a/c compressor and power steering pump out as needed.
Seperating the trans isn't that hard, you will need to remove the lower crossmember itself to get to some of the bellhousing bolts. Remove the starter and set it aside, and don't forget to seperate your flexplate or flywheel from the TC or clutch, whichever the case may be, before seperating the trans. Make sure not to nick or ding the CKPS's signal ring mated to the back of the flexplate/flywheel.
Remove the exhaust manifold heatshields to get to the bolts themselves, my engine didn't come with manifolds, so I ended up re-using my existing ones, and you're going to need a star socket, T10, to remove the studs so the manifolds will come straight down, they will not come out and away.
Re-installation is pretty straightforward after that- make sure to reattach your flywheel/flexplate before bolting the engine and trans back together (like I didn't
) then exhaust, then the lower crossmember, is last, iirc...
After that you're ready to lift the engine/trans back into place.
I made a simple block-off plate for the EGR valve port, get that new gasket, too. Use it for your plate's template. I had to temporarily rig up my fuel feed line due to differences in the rails, and I ended up swapping my knock sensor and my "rear" cam position sensor due to harness plug differences, but other than that, everything (with the exception of my CKPS' mounting position, which I'll fix someday soon) was ready to plug-n-play. I didn't have to touch my intake or throttle body or coils, etc.
Just think about the steps needed to reassemble so you don't have to un-do anything. Have torque specs available, and a new oil filter, change the new engine's oil after running up to temp. Turn on the heater so your core doesn't hold onto any air bubbles and let the thermostat open before you top off and cap off. Check for leaks immediately after firing off for the first time, but other than that, you should be in the clear at that point.
) and this is relating to my recent '08 Quest VQ35DE swap-in to my '02, so engine "specifics" may not all apply.....Be prepared to replace your belt tensioner assemblies, both main and power steering. My main had rusted solid and snapped when I tried to loosen it. The power steering tensioner was a casualty of the RH CV axle's carrier bearing space requirement.
The PS pump, A/C comp, and Alternator can all be removed from the engine and left connected to the car ( well, the alternator comes out and you can just put it somewhere ) I highly recommend lots and lots of Twister or the like, and socket extensions. Also, air tools come in super handy. Remove the radiator and fans. Take the complete airbox out, set it somewhere. Same with the battery.
The main engine harness, just disconnect every plug starting from the pass side rear of the engine compartment until you run out over by the battery, and tuck it under a wiper. Removal of the hood is pretty much the first thing you'll want to do, sorry if I'm getting "elementary" here.....
Buy new belts, hoses, and exhaust manifold gaskets. Disconnect the exhaust in front of the main cat- be prepared to grind/cut/drill it apart, you'll want that new gasket, too, and perhaps some 7/16" bolts and nuts to put it back together-the Y pipe assembly comes out with the engine.
The axles can be removed by taking the top two strut bolts out, and the tie rod end. Just back off the tie rod end's lock nut and give the knuckle a few friendly wacks with a 5lb sledge, it'll pop right out. Make sure you've removed the ABS sensor before letting the hub and brake caliper assy tug on it. This is where those extensions come in handy- getting to the carrier bearings bolts. You'll want to jack the power steering pump as high as it'll go to make room for the bearing's brace. You have to loosen the "front face" nuts on both tensioners before they will move.
You're going to need the car high enough to lower the engine and trans out from the bottom. The pass side motor mount is a weird thing, one bolt from underneath, one up top, and one hiding somewhere else, I forget. You'll figure it out when you get to it- if you don't disassemble it right, you won't be able to drop the engine- you'll see it. The trans mount is just the one bolt. Disconnect your shifter linkage and trans cooler lines, and heater core hoses, and fuel line. All that stays with the car, if it's easier. Go ahead and remove the crank position sensor from the front of the engine so it isn't bothered during the next few steps.
Support the engine and trans assy with something wide and flat to evenly distribute the weight- a "transmission" jack works here, and remove the crossmember bolts. You should be ready to drop it at this point, slow and easy, snaking the a/c compressor and power steering pump out as needed.
Seperating the trans isn't that hard, you will need to remove the lower crossmember itself to get to some of the bellhousing bolts. Remove the starter and set it aside, and don't forget to seperate your flexplate or flywheel from the TC or clutch, whichever the case may be, before seperating the trans. Make sure not to nick or ding the CKPS's signal ring mated to the back of the flexplate/flywheel.
Remove the exhaust manifold heatshields to get to the bolts themselves, my engine didn't come with manifolds, so I ended up re-using my existing ones, and you're going to need a star socket, T10, to remove the studs so the manifolds will come straight down, they will not come out and away.
Re-installation is pretty straightforward after that- make sure to reattach your flywheel/flexplate before bolting the engine and trans back together (like I didn't
) then exhaust, then the lower crossmember, is last, iirc...After that you're ready to lift the engine/trans back into place.
I made a simple block-off plate for the EGR valve port, get that new gasket, too. Use it for your plate's template. I had to temporarily rig up my fuel feed line due to differences in the rails, and I ended up swapping my knock sensor and my "rear" cam position sensor due to harness plug differences, but other than that, everything (with the exception of my CKPS' mounting position, which I'll fix someday soon) was ready to plug-n-play. I didn't have to touch my intake or throttle body or coils, etc.
Just think about the steps needed to reassemble so you don't have to un-do anything. Have torque specs available, and a new oil filter, change the new engine's oil after running up to temp. Turn on the heater so your core doesn't hold onto any air bubbles and let the thermostat open before you top off and cap off. Check for leaks immediately after firing off for the first time, but other than that, you should be in the clear at that point.
05-28-2010, 09:52 AM
#3
Good write up. Nice to know that it's possible to swap in a newer VQ and someone has done it, i've been searching trying to figure that out. When i find a cheap engine from a 6th gen i will be doing a swap.
Thanks!
Thanks!
05-28-2010, 10:16 PM
#4
how long did it take you? nice write up btw...
But thanks, seriously. I notice I left out a few steps and pointers tho.
Good write up. Nice to know that it's possible to swap in a newer VQ and someone has done it, i've been searching trying to figure that out. When i find a cheap engine from a 6th gen i will be doing a swap.
Thanks!
Thanks!
But I think the thing I'm trying to say is that if I can put a minvan engine that's 6 yrs newer into my "old" 4DSC, odds are, yeah, you could just about get any VQ35DE into these things.
While you're wrestling with the CV axles and getting them out of the hubs (taking off that big 32mm or whatever it is nut is where a pneumatic impact wrench comes in super handy) don't let 'em shove your rotor backing plate into your rotor, or you end up like me, searching the forums for "scraping squealing from front end"
But again, seriously, y'all say thanks for this little write-up, but I'll say THANKS for this forum and its members. So far, I've found out how to replace my cabin air filters, fix my BOSE woofer rattle, polish my headlights, buy Lamin-X to protect my foglights, and fix that squealing I talked about above. Talk about making ownership easy, thanks y'all.
Last edited by BlackMacks; 05-30-2010 at 07:59 AM. Reason: forgot something
05-30-2010, 07:57 AM
#9
So, how does your car run with a minivan engine?
Probably just like his car did when it rolled off the lot...just without the oil burning lol
r u going to put the Quest decal in ur car?
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