BuckeyeMax1982

I have had a chronic intermittent misfire issue with my '03 SE since I've owned it 6 months ago. I replaced the MAF doing the '00/thermeter swap, bored my cat and pre-cat, thoroughly tested all coils, replaced rear valve cover, replaced all plugs, replaced air filter, kept oil changes every 3k with Pennzoil Platinum (look up the ratings yourself and save money over that BULL*** Mobil 1. The misfire imporved and changed characteristics over time with repairs, but never went away. I had surging, lack of power, misfire, etc that many have experienced and SES codes for EVAP (canister or purge valve, wouldn't cause the drivability issues), Random misfire, Knock sensor (ran a resistor simiulator, which I later removed-tested sensor within specs later), and 2 different cylinder misfire codes. When I replaced the plugs, I remember the wiring going to the injectors looking dry and shoddy. When I forgot to pull the plastic wire tie from the upper intake prior to removal, I ripped the wires to an injector from the plastic harness plug on the injector itself. I attempted repair, but the connector was so cooked and was shoddy to begin with-no saving it. Many others have suffered the drivability issues same as mine and tried what I tried-and like me, still had an intermittent misfire/lack of power. Let me say that my '03 6M has 130kl on it and had a rough life in Chicago prior to me buying it (1 female owner-interior mint, body fair, mechanicals neglected). I cut about 3" of wire back into the factory harness and spliced in the new connectors with pigtails with a Klein Tools crimper, butt connectors, and Scotch Super 33+ (I am an MECP certified car stereo install tech with over 8 yrs. experience, so I'm **** about my electrical tape...) and the car runs immaculately. I will be replacing the Evap purge control valve and canister within the next few weeks as that is my only SES left. FYI...the harness I ripped the wires from was replaced and I also found 2 others loose (hence my intermittent problem) which I replaced as well. A trick is to get a long screwdriver and tap on the connectors and wiring for the rear bank injectors and if your motor chugs or does anything weird at idle, chances are you have an issue with one. Pull the intake inspect and replace connectors as necessary. Hopefully this helps and below is my invoice from Ballenger Motorsports (with non-pertinent(my address, etc) info deleted). Good luck.

Order # 860108 Status : Shipped Order Date : 05/07/2010 Billing Information Shipping Information Name Nicholas
Name Nicholas
Company Company Address Line 1
Address Line 1
Address Line 2 Address Line 2 City Dayton City Dayton State Ohio State Ohio Zip 45449 Zip 45449 Invoice Part # Description Cost Qty Total CONN-85572 Nippon Denso Type Injector Connector Connector Pigtail $6.99 2 x $13.98 Sub-Total: $13.98 Low Orders Fee: $3.00 USPS First-Class Mail - Insured ($ 0.95)
- Not a tracked shipping method: $3.02 Total: $20.00 Comments Your order has shipped, your tracking number is:



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If you have any questions please reply to this e-mail or call us at (804) 915-7201.

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Thank you for your order,
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Sales & Shipping Department
sales@bmotorsports.com
http://www.bmotorsports.com
Phone: (804) 915-7201
Fax: (804) 433-3825

That is an email with the applicable information from Ballenger Motorsports for the fuel injector harness connectors to the injector itself. High quaility. Great service. Fair price and we can get a discount if ordered in larger quantities. Trust me your 5th gen's connectors are cooked. The VQ's put a Sh**ton of heat off the top of the motor and the plastic gets brittle. Not to mention, the wires themselves are a really Sh**** fit inside the plug to begin with). Let me know if anyone needs more info.

BuckeyeMax1982

3 Months and NO intermittent misfire repeats!!! Trust me, this is the best cheap repair you will make. No more headache, just astonished faces of 5.0 drivers when the eat my dust with 2 car seats in the back