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Maxima power window auto-up ONE TOUCH FUNCTION fix.
On the 2002 and 2003 Maxima I now have located the quick fix for a problem I have had since purchasing my used 2003 SE a year ago. Thats the drivers door window one-touch up function was not working properly. The window would go up to the top and then retreat about 5 inches back down again.
This problem is due to the limit switch needing to be reset which at first I thought would be a considerable job (to take off the door panel etc.) but ended up being literally a 2 minute job as the door panel can remain in place.
I know several ‘02 and ‘03 Maxima owners have had this same problem but no-one then appeared to know the fix. Although this procedure is simple once you do it, my description seems long, but I wanted to be a descriptive as possible. So here it is:
Step 1: Pry the plastic cap up off the bottom center of the door pull handle and remove the single Philips screw.
Step 2: Remove the whole switch panel (in which the door pull handle sits) by prying it up from the back end either with a flat edged screwdriver or table knife or by hand. Its just clipped in, so should come out relatively easily. Sliding it up at the back and then pulling it back.
You can now see the inside of the door from where the switch finishing plate sat. You can leave the wiring all attached and simply hang the switch and handle plastic assembly to one side so you can see the inside of the door.
Look inside towards the front bottom of the door behind the plastic barrier. You will see a small black switch. It almost looks like a black pan screw head. This is the reset switch, but there is a sequence to now doing the actual reset procedure. The switch doesn’t really feel like one when you press it through the plastic barrier which incidentally you don’t need to cut (at least I didn’t). It is a switch that is only on when you are pressing it, otherwise when released it is off.
STEP 3: Turn the ignition on so the windows are receiving power. Make sure the window is (up) completely.
a) Press the reset switch (keep it pressed in) and roll (down) the window completely (manually! -NOT with AUTO ONE TOUCH FUNCTION). b) Release the reset switch. Then close the window completely (manually only! – NOT AUTO UP FUNCTION). c) The limit switch is now reset. Easy!!!
Thanks to:nicoclub.com
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Last edited by Blackdiamond; 06-09-2010 at 09:17 AM.
This is old news to the forum, and written up in a few places already. What's amazing is how you lived with this for years. Years? My god, that would drive me nuts. When this started happening to me, I went about a week before finding a solution.
However, I'm pretty sure this is the first write-up that includes pictures. For that, well done, OP! For many people looking for instructions, pictures are priceless. Particularly the one pointing out where the reset switch is, because it's kind of hard to locate.
Good job.
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I'd use more colloquialisms to make my point, but the well's gone dry. . .
NWP phenolic intake spacers, Cattman y-pipe, Cattman 2.5" cat-back, Frankencar short-ram intake, Apexi pop charger, VIAS-delete NWP block plate, Unorthodox Racing crank pulley, NWP engine torque link, Tokico HP Blue struts, Progress rear sway bar, Racingline FSTB, sub-frame collars, Energy Suspension bushings (torque mounts, LCA's, sub-mount, FSB, shifter & shifter assembly), Sprint Booster, Short-throw shifter mod, Centric rotors, Hawk HPS pads, Goodyear Eagle F1's -- 62,000 original owner miles
I've had to do this several times within the past few months. Also found that when you use the key in the door lock cylinder to open/close the windows, (in my car at least) it screws up the auto-up function somehow and makes one or both windows roll back down a few inches.
I don't mind seeing another write-up on this one bit. It's really nice to have the pictures as just a quick refresher. My pass. side has been acting up so I intend to do this pretty soon.
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'02 Maxima SE 6-speed
Sterling Mist
Tokico Illuminas F/R
I guess mine is permafuked. Tried several different combinations of up/down with the button, but it does nothing to fix it. (Like I said before, this has happened several times to my windows over the last few months and I've fixed it everytime, so maybe my reset button is broken?)
Well I finally got around to doing this fix (reset), the passenger window in auto worked for a coupla times, then the auto function just stopped, now the window will only work in auto after its halfway up (going up), but completely no auto in down mode. Guess i'll just have to live with it like that for now.
Well I finally got around to doing this fix (reset), the passenger window in auto worked for a coupla times, then the auto function just stopped, now the window will only work in auto after its halfway up (going up), but completely no auto in down mode. Guess i'll just have to live with it like that for now.
Well retried this fix and now everything is working as it should. Had to reset it a couple of times and then it (the passenger) side worked normally. Much thanks to you Blackdiamond via nicoclub.com
does anyone know why this even starts happening? what causes it?
IDK... it's a motor with a fair amount of torque and a hard-stop at both ends.
What I find odd is that when it starts to happen to me, it always starts when it's really, really hot out. Like, over 90F. Then it starts happening more and more at lower temps, until I reset. What's the deal with temperature?
In the last 3 years, I've reset it once on the driver side, and once on the passenger side. Just recently, the passenger side had a "bounce", so I'll be resetting the passenger side again this summer, I bet.
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I'd use more colloquialisms to make my point, but the well's gone dry. . .
NWP phenolic intake spacers, Cattman y-pipe, Cattman 2.5" cat-back, Frankencar short-ram intake, Apexi pop charger, VIAS-delete NWP block plate, Unorthodox Racing crank pulley, NWP engine torque link, Tokico HP Blue struts, Progress rear sway bar, Racingline FSTB, sub-frame collars, Energy Suspension bushings (torque mounts, LCA's, sub-mount, FSB, shifter & shifter assembly), Sprint Booster, Short-throw shifter mod, Centric rotors, Hawk HPS pads, Goodyear Eagle F1's -- 62,000 original owner miles
IDK... it's a motor with a fair amount of torque and a hard-stop at both ends.
What I find odd is that when it starts to happen to me, it always starts when it's really, really hot out. Like, over 90F. Then it starts happening more and more at lower temps, until I reset. What's the deal with temperature?
In the last 3 years, I've reset it once on the driver side, and once on the passenger side. Just recently, the passenger side had a "bounce", so I'll be resetting the passenger side again this summer, I bet.
Mine tends to happen with the temperature changes also. Its pretty much every spring and fall that I have to reset it when the temperatures get much warmer or colder. I cant think of why temperature would affect it, but its more than just a coincidence now.
Looking for this reset switch fix was the thing that brought me to the Org in early '09.
This place is an amazing resource, once you figure out how to dig around. Some really good people here, and a few whackadoodles, too. Make friends with the first, learn to laugh at the second, and the Org becomes a pretty cool place.
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I'd use more colloquialisms to make my point, but the well's gone dry. . .
NWP phenolic intake spacers, Cattman y-pipe, Cattman 2.5" cat-back, Frankencar short-ram intake, Apexi pop charger, VIAS-delete NWP block plate, Unorthodox Racing crank pulley, NWP engine torque link, Tokico HP Blue struts, Progress rear sway bar, Racingline FSTB, sub-frame collars, Energy Suspension bushings (torque mounts, LCA's, sub-mount, FSB, shifter & shifter assembly), Sprint Booster, Short-throw shifter mod, Centric rotors, Hawk HPS pads, Goodyear Eagle F1's -- 62,000 original owner miles
Slightly OT, and I'm sure I'll get flamed for this but...
I literally just found out that AUTO windows have 2 'clicks'/stops, first being normal operation and the second being auto operation. I thought it was just hit or miss, sometimes its auto sometimes it isn't. This just totally turned my whole universe upside down.
Back on-topic: Great write-up OP if this ever happens to me I'll know where to go.
__________________ They told (us) to open up the Embassy, or "we'll blow you away." And then they looked up and saw the Marines on the roof with these really big guns, and they said in Somali, "Igaralli ahow," which means "Excuse me, I didn't mean it, my mistake". -Karen Aquilar, in the U.S. Embassy; Mogadishu, Somalia, 1991
02 Maxima GLE Auto - 14.94
does anyone know if there is a way for 00-01 to get the windows to roll down with the keyless entry, like is there a way to swicth out parts with 02-03 so you can be able to roll the windows down.
Great fix, finally my girl will stop thinking I'm opening up her window. On a side note it took me a few tries before I found that the passengers side has it's own reset switch. I was trying to do a passenger window reset from the drivers door.
Blackdiamond, Thanks to you for taking the time to publish your post and pictures. My drivers window has been "ghosting" since I got my Maxima and thanks to your post, it now works properly. To some on this thread who may have had a problem, I notice that there actually is a bolt head close to the reset switch - pressing the bolt head will not fix the problem! I was unable to locate the reset button until I got in there with a flashlight, then I could see it, below the bolt head by about 2 inches or so.
I've dealt with this for a while too. It's been happening to my white max for over a year (it started on one sub zero day), and just started on the black one a few weeks ago. Yeah, it does seem to be sensitive to temp/humidity. Weird.
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2000 Pearl White Max GLE - 95k - 350Z 17's (thanks fr33way)- Fuzion 245's - Megan 2.5" cat-back - Tokico Blues - GAB - Halo projectors
2000 Super Black Max GXE - 85k - 16" GLE 5-spokes - 215's - Bluetooth audio - New tranny (thanks nsnrider) - DIY CAI - AE'd headlights
Awesome thread! Just fixed mine in 5 mins. The sad thing is about 3 years ago I took it in to the dealership and they changed me about $75 to fix it. Hahaha what a dumby I am, but not anymore!
Awesome thread! Just fixed mine in 5 mins. The sad thing is about 3 years ago I took it in to the dealership and they changed me about $75 to fix it. Hahaha what a dumby I am, but not anymore!
RIP 95 Maxi...Gone but never forgotten. RIP 03 Maxi...Gone but never forgotten.
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