Kari4004

Apparently a part went on my Maxima(EIC or something) that controls the idol. Well, after this part went, it damaged the computer. Anyone know how to get another one without spending $2000 at the dealership?? It is a 2001 Anniversary edition 5 speed with 17 inch rims and a V6. Is this part that needs to be bought brand new?? HELP!!!
~Kari

Amave

as long as the computer is for the same year vehicle & trans type you can use a used one. you will also have to have the car towed to the Nissan dealer to have the immobilizer keys programmed to the new computer and yes it is a common issue.


www.car-part.com usually has the computers for cheaper than $2000 at the dealer.

BTW it was your IACV that killed your computer . get a new IACV and a computer and you will be set

medicjdl

The ECU has coolant that run threw it. When the Gasket goes, the fluid goes into the little motor that is on the ECU and fries the computer. Very common issue. Best thing to do is replace the ECU as soon as you buy a Maxima. I changed mine at 100k and after removing it, I noticed the gasket was about to let go. I was lucky. Good luck with yours

qwerty652

you can get your computer repaired fyi... http://www.autoecu.com/ is one place that does it.

this is a common problem, you can find at least 2 other threads with more info...

xx1479

It's very common when the IAC goes. It almost always burns out a chip on the ECU. Like someone above mentioned you can get a new one from the dealer for a king's ransom, you can get a used one for about 350 and then have your car towed to the dealership and have it reprogrammed, an easy additional 200-250 when you include the tow.

I sent mine to a guy in Minnesota. His name is David Ruberg and his number is 507-429-4489. It's a legit business. He charged me 140 plus 13 and change for shipping to repair it. I got a quote from autoecu.com and they wanted 189 plus shipping. Hope this helps.

MAXIMA_STYLE

iTrader: (21)

look on ebay for a used ecu from a 2001 5 speed....or check craiglist for parts cars.... look around im from ct too not too far from you actually and i got a Greddy catback(700 new) for 50 bucks... so it pays to look

SoonerFan

iTrader: (5)

wait, what?

coolant runs in to the throttle body...the throttle body has a small "computer" (on 02+) that gets the idle position signal from the ECU (which is under the dash)...coolant doesnt run near (or through) anything electric, especially not the ECU

duanes7

Right, no coolant flows thoruhg the ECU. It flows throught the IACV.

On the 2000 the IACV is an electronic stepper motor that is connected to the ECU. Coolant can leak past the gasket that is between the TB and IACV which is below the TB. The coolant damages the stepper probably causing it to pull too much current. This then blows teh chip in the ECU.

It is a fairly common problem and the damage to the chip and ECU is pretty consistent. Meaning easily repaired.

Just replace the IACV and repair the ECU at the same time as a bad IACV will just damage the ECU again.

G3Nis

iTrader: (8)

I think I just got this problem, but when I took the TB and IACV out, all seemed pretty clean. No visible coolant leak from the tubes into the sensor. Is there a visible check or easy test to see if the ECU is blown? I know others were as obvious as seeing smoke out of the ecu.
Should I continue to replace the gasket and clean it, or send it to David?

Max_5gen

iTrader: (2)

You can take ECU out and open it - if it has blown chip it looks quite obvious from the pictures posted here before.

G3Nis

iTrader: (8)

I am checking now, but if the chip is burnt out and I send it to David, does he replace just the chip, or give a whole new ECU that I would have to go to the dealer to unlock?

xx1479

he will replace the burnt chip and send back your ECU, just plug and play. no dealership intervention necessary. he charged my $140 plus $13 for shipping.

G3Nis

iTrader: (8)

I'm guessing you replaced your IACV too with the new ECU. Did it happen to fry again, like I have heard horror stories burning through multiple ecus?

G3Nis

iTrader: (8)

Opened the ECU, everything checked out fine. No visible chips melting, burn spots, or smells.
IACV and ECU did not fix my idle/CEL/P0505 problem. Could it be the stepper motor went bad?

Max_5gen

iTrader: (2)

I doubt you have burnt ECU or IACV. Please take a look at this thread, it might be relevant, especially the last post where he talks about leak 'hunting':
http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...-5-5-gens.html

G3Nis

iTrader: (8)

The reason I am leaning towards the IACV is that when I reset my ECU, withing seconds the CEL light comes on with a 0505 code. Could be a massive leak that I am not just hearing and that causing it. Will hunt a little more.

nsnrider

iTrader: (59)

if you have replaced your iacv with a new part and the ecu is not burnt, then it can be an electrical problem.

Check your wirring, plugs, and all fuses in the car.

It might also be a bad ground somewhere.

good luck.

G3Nis

iTrader: (8)

Will check the grounds, which will be a lot of fun.
I checked with David who replaces some of the ECUs and he indicated that the chips might not be bad even though they look clean. Not sure if I just should send out the ECU and see if that fixes it.

Jereme329

what are the symptoms to having a fried ecu and bad iacv i am pulling a code for my iacv, im running lean on bank 1, and i dont have a rear 02 sensor. could a friend ecu and bad iacv be my problem?

xx1479

In my case, I knew I had a bad IACV so I had it replaced but my mechanic could not bring the RPM's down with idle relearn. It would just continue to say idle relearn incomplete. So he opened up the ECU and sure enough it had a burnt chip.

Jereme329

well i have a code for my iacv but i pulled the ecu and no burn sopts what so ever i even look at it like 5 or 6 different times just to make sure. my car bogs really bad around 3500 to 4000 rpms and it is DUMPING fuel in the car. really bad fuel mileage. i might just drop it off at nissan in the morning and walk across the street to ford to go to work 97 bucks outta my pocket

xx1479

That sound slike it could be your MAF.

Amave

agreed either MAF is dead or you have unmetered air getting into your engine somehow.

If air gets in past the MAF , the ecu dumps fuel , runs pig rich , because it doesn't know how much air is getting in, it does that to keep from running too lean thus ruining the engine...


supply voltage is 11-14v
output voltage at idle when warmed up is 1.2 -1.8 v


best i could do as far as specs go

qwerty652

just put my repaired ECU back in - works like a champ... cost $70 plus shipping

xx1479

Did you go with autecu via ebay purchase or David in MN?

qwerty652

I did the ebay purchase through autoecu.com. i emailed david, and his price was good, but the ebay $70 deal was a little better.

Really can't go wrong either way.

SmokinMax02

Do you still have the link for the $70 rebuild?

I found autoecu.com on ebay, but they are selling rebuilds for $125 + 11.34 for return shipping, not $70. And David's rebuilds are $140 with free shipping.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/INFIN...Q5fAccessories

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...=STRK:MEWAX:IT

Would love to know where you send it to for $70 though...

G3Nis

iTrader: (8)

Is it possible to block off the IACV like 4th gens who swap their throttle body?
Also, is it wise to bypass the coolant through the IACV to try and cut down on problems with coolant and the short?

qwerty652

it looks like autoecu raised their ebay price on the maxima rebuild... the cheapest one i see now is 125. I guess i got lucky by getting it for $70 when i did. Honestly, its still worth the $125 - much cheaper than a new or even used one!

denny_1986

iTrader: (1)

the burnt ECU goes hand in hand with a burnt IACV. It is very rare for the IACV to go w/o damaging the ECU but it has happened to a couple of users on here.
I've already gone through this mess and it was a half a grand of pain in the a$$ in parts alone...not to mention the downtime
The stearliship told me to periodically check the outer IACV edge to look for any greenish crust accumulation..thats a telltale sign that your gasket is leaking. He recommended changing the gasket every 30-40k miles or so or some **** like that

btw, if you get a used ECU, don't forget that u would have to get the keys reprogrammed as well