Clutch not disengaging
04-24-2010, 04:57 PM
#1
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Clutch not disengaging
2001 AE SE w/5spd manual....So far i've bled the system, replaced the slave, and the master. The clutch still wont fully disengage. Fluid is clear no air bubbles. Starting to think its the clutch/pressure plate, but don't want to drop the trans and replace the clutch for nothing. Any ideas or thoughts would be appreciated....
04-24-2010, 06:06 PM
#4
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2001 AE SE w/5spd manual....So far i've bled the system, replaced the slave, and the master. The clutch still wont fully disengage. Fluid is clear no air bubbles. Starting to think its the clutch/pressure plate, but don't want to drop the trans and replace the clutch for nothing. Any ideas or thoughts would be appreciated....
04-24-2010, 06:26 PM
#8
cant say iv had this issue with a nissan. but in my acura 5 speed.
in a dis engaging clutch..here was the symtom and problem.
try starting car in 1st gear with clutch depressed all the way...if car rolls forward confirmed its not disengaging. and possibly a broken spring on the pressure plate not allowing it to fully lift.
post back
in a dis engaging clutch..here was the symtom and problem.
try starting car in 1st gear with clutch depressed all the way...if car rolls forward confirmed its not disengaging. and possibly a broken spring on the pressure plate not allowing it to fully lift.
post back
04-25-2010, 06:15 AM
#10
Where did you get the master cylinder from? I'm hoping you went to the dealership. I went through the same thing with my 5 speed swap. I went through 3 auto parts store master cylinders, then I went to the dealership and all has been fine ever since.
If this is not the case, it's most likely your pressure plate or throw out [release] bearing.
If this is not the case, it's most likely your pressure plate or throw out [release] bearing.
04-25-2010, 09:11 AM
#11
answers your question. do this without the ebrake on. if your car lunges forward you have pretty concrete proof that your pressure plate is busted.
a fully working manual tranny, you can start a car with gear in and clutch depressed and ebrake off and the cars not going no where.
a fully working manual tranny, you can start a car with gear in and clutch depressed and ebrake off and the cars not going no where.
04-25-2010, 04:45 PM
#13
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answers your question. do this without the ebrake on. if your car lunges forward you have pretty concrete proof that your pressure plate is busted.
a fully working manual tranny, you can start a car with gear in and clutch depressed and ebrake off and the cars not going no where.
a fully working manual tranny, you can start a car with gear in and clutch depressed and ebrake off and the cars not going no where.
Where did you get the master cylinder from? I'm hoping you went to the dealership. I went through the same thing with my 5 speed swap. I went through 3 auto parts store master cylinders, then I went to the dealership and all has been fine ever since.
If this is not the case, it's most likely your pressure plate or throw out [release] bearing.
If this is not the case, it's most likely your pressure plate or throw out [release] bearing.
I only us Castrol GT LMA for all brake fluid uses in all my cars...its almost impossible to beat its 509 deg dry boiling point for its cost and availability.
04-25-2010, 06:29 PM
#16
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Clutch not disengaging
If you have anymore free play( by that I mean little or no pedal pressure at the top) than almost nothing at all. Continue the bleeding process. Bad cylinders can also cause the free play,either by letting air back into the system or by being dimensionally wrong.These are a biatch to bleed. If you have good pedal effort from top to bottom and can see that the fork is moving far enough consistently, then pull the trans to check the clutch for something mechanically binding .
04-25-2010, 10:10 PM
#17
yeah, if the clutch doesnt feel like it did when it was working fine, as in more free play, there is likely a bleeding problem. It can be a bish to bleed these clutches. There have been times where ive spent an hour getting it bled correctly. What has worked best for me is unbolting the slave from the trans and holding it way up in the air. Then I loosen the bleeder a little bit as somebody applies pressure, making sure to keep the cup from coming out of the slave. I usually repeat that a couple times, then bolt it back up. seems to work wonders for getting air out
04-26-2010, 07:03 AM
#18
Do yourself a favor and remove the master cylinder. If the rod looks... ummm... limp, (bad choice of words I know) or if you try to push on it and there is little to no resistance, there's your problem.
Order one from DAVEB. It should be between $90-$110. Trust me, i've personaly been through this before with 3 auto parts master cylinders. And with countless other customer's brakes and master cylinders.
04-26-2010, 07:29 AM
#19
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I wouldnt trust it. I worked in retail auto parts stores for years and while normal maintinence items are just fine from there, any and all parts accosiated with hydrolics are pretty much bound to fail prematurely. This is what happened to me and this is what happened to plenty of customers ive had.
Do yourself a favor and remove the master cylinder. If the rod looks... ummm... limp, (bad choice of words I know) or if you try to push on it and there is little to no resistance, there's your problem.
Order one from DAVEB. It should be between $90-$110. Trust me, i've personaly been through this before with 3 auto parts master cylinders. And with countless other customer's brakes and master cylinders.
Do yourself a favor and remove the master cylinder. If the rod looks... ummm... limp, (bad choice of words I know) or if you try to push on it and there is little to no resistance, there's your problem.
Order one from DAVEB. It should be between $90-$110. Trust me, i've personaly been through this before with 3 auto parts master cylinders. And with countless other customer's brakes and master cylinders.
100% agree with this. There are some parts including coil packs and hydraulic parts like he mentioned that you WILL notice a difference between oem quality and auto parts stores...
04-26-2010, 11:11 AM
#20
Yea, I would always send customers to the dealership for certain parts. Or instead of warrantying the part over and over again for the customer, I would simply give them their money back and let them know the scoop about some parts. My bosses would get pissed because that = lost profit to them. But in my eyes, it built a certain trust with customers which made them come back and spend more in the long run. (which it really did)
04-26-2010, 12:58 PM
#21
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Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Sacramento
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I wouldnt trust it. I worked in retail auto parts stores for years and while normal maintinence items are just fine from there, any and all parts accosiated with hydrolics are pretty much bound to fail prematurely. This is what happened to me and this is what happened to plenty of customers ive had.
Do yourself a favor and remove the master cylinder. If the rod looks... ummm... limp, (bad choice of words I know) or if you try to push on it and there is little to no resistance, there's your problem.
Order one from DAVEB. It should be between $90-$110. Trust me, i've personaly been through this before with 3 auto parts master cylinders. And with countless other customer's brakes and master cylinders.
Do yourself a favor and remove the master cylinder. If the rod looks... ummm... limp, (bad choice of words I know) or if you try to push on it and there is little to no resistance, there's your problem.
Order one from DAVEB. It should be between $90-$110. Trust me, i've personaly been through this before with 3 auto parts master cylinders. And with countless other customer's brakes and master cylinders.
04-26-2010, 01:58 PM
#22
I know. But once you instal it and actually put fluid/pressure through it by pressing the pedal it fails. Check if napa has one for a 4th gen also, the shaft should be a little longer. (atleast at advance auto it was) The pedal felt a little better for me.
Last edited by essential1; 04-26-2010 at 02:01 PM.
04-29-2010, 05:25 AM
#24
05-31-2010, 06:46 PM
#27
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05-31-2010, 10:58 PM
#31
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Havent even driven it yet since i still need to bleed the clutch... My help didnt get here until after i was cleaned up for the night so we'll bleed it tomorrow.
Fidanza claims that the FW weighs 12lbs, it was notably lighter than the OE one.
Fidanza claims that the FW weighs 12lbs, it was notably lighter than the OE one.
Last edited by Christobal65; 05-31-2010 at 11:02 PM.
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