Superduck

Had a coolant leak that I noticed was dripping from the front bottom of the oil pan. Try as I could I couldn't find where the leak was coming from. It's frigging cold here, so I took it to my local mechanic to get a pressure test done. His findings were the highest place he can see the coolant leaking is by the timing chain cover. He can't find it leaking anywhere else, nor can he find how it gets from the timing cover to the oil pan. My concern was this was the water pump. I thought he'd be able to tell me for sure one way or the other. He couldn't. I asked if he knew whether or not it was the water pump, to which he replied he wouldn't know until he started taking things apart.

He told me he was going to talk with Nissan mechanics tomorrow morning to see if it could be anything else besides the timing cover.

If it's the water pump he said it's a minimum 10 hours just labor, and would run me around $700 just in labor.

My understanding is the water pumps rarely fail in these cars, but want to find out if anyone has ideas of something else it could be based on where its is leaking. Also to see what others have paid for a water pump to see if it's in the same ballpark. I'm fairly mechanically inclined, but my understanding is the water pump is a b^*ch and requires special tools to keep the timing chain out of the way. I thought they'd be able to rule out or concede the pump as the problem.....is this not the case? Thanks.

2000 Maxima
204,XXX miles

Ghost_54

iTrader: (13)

Check the Oil Cooler tube, I had my Alternator replaced recently and a small leak was found that stemmed from the Oil coolant tube.

soto2635

iTrader: (3)

holy crap $700, today i paid $500 to change the water pump in my altima

Superduck

Yeah, $700...just in labor, and he's not even sure if it's the pump. UGH.

Nelsito65

I think the mechanic is overestimating the time it takes to change a water pump on these cars. I did mine, without any prior experience, and I would say it took me no more than six hours to complete the job.
I still don't get how the coolant would leak into the timing chain cover. The water pump is sealed beyond that area. $50 something for the water pump at Autozone and no specialty tools required.

Superduck

Ghost_54 I'll take a look at the oil coolant tube. Any ideas always welcome.

Nelsito65, I have no problem tackling this myself if it's not something above and beyond what I should try. I've replaced both valve cover gaskets, cv axles, and such. I'm not bragging here obviously, but trying to give an idea of other things I've done to see if this falls in the same area of difficulty. Looking at the FSM it appears a fairly straight forward job.

Anyone have a picture of the weep hole? No nasty jokes here.. If my water pump is failing, there should be coolant coming from that hole right?....I just need to find it.

To add to my original post, my car has never overheated, nor has the temp ever risen beyond normal.

Think I'll try to get some of that coolant dye tomorrow and see if that lights anything up.

P. Samson

If coolant leaks past the pump shaft seal it will drip down through a passage in the rear timing chain case (or a channel between the rear timing chain case and the block.....I've never actually seen it) and it will appear where the originator of this thread has seen it (in the past some forum members have first spotted coolant on the AC compressor). When coolant does leak by the shaft seal the "O" ring closest to the pump drive end prevents this coolant from getting into the timing chain area and contaminating the oil. Just make damn sure that you drain enough coolant to lower the coolant level to below the level of the pump BEFORE extracting the coolant pump to prevent dumping coolant into the timing chain case.

Superduck

Is changing the water pump on 5th gens the same as 4th gens? Found a write up in the 4th gen section.

P. Samson, thanks for the tip. In my reading and searching, some said to take out the pump drain bolt, and then drain and change the oil after removing the pump, in anticipation of getting coolant into the timing chain case. Will lowering the coolant level prevent this?

P. Samson

The Gen. 4 should be the same animal. If you don't drain the coolant out of the block/heads you will dump coolant into the timing chain case. The FSM states to drain the rad and to remove both block drain plugs, but I know that the rear one is a real b**ch to even access it to get a socket on it. I think if you drained the rad and removed the pump drain plug (it's just under, and in front of the pump access cover) that should work. When you jack the pump out of there keep it as square as possible......otherwise you could gouge the bore. The "O" rings may be different (material) so check on that. Make sure the bore is smooth and that you lube the impeller end "O" ring with coolant (if you nick/nip/cut it you'll have a leak) and the other one with oil, and make sure that you go in square/straight.

Nelsito65

Superduck, if you've tackled those jobs, I'm sure you'll have no problem replacing the water pump, if that turns out to be the problem. Again, I would think that if your water pump is leaking into the timing chain cover, mixing coolant with oil, you would see other symptoms in your car.
I followed the write-up for the 4th gen myself; it's pretty much the same. Be extremelly carefull, when you remove the timimg chain tensioner, not to drop any bolt (or anything, for that matter) into the timing chain cover. You might want to replace that part too, while you're at it. The same precaution applies when removing the water pump.

Amave

just searched and found this, i saw like 2 drips of coolant on the oil pan and floor , it looks to be coming from behind the crank pulley and dripping onto the oil pan. I suspect a leaky water pump but also one other person posted a coolant tube.

if the water pump is leaking would the coolant not mix with the oil if it leaking externally?

BTW the FSM says when replacing the water pump, after the tensioner is out, turn back the crank pulley 20 degrees to give some slack , then when the pump is bolted in, turn the pulley back 20 degrees, then install the tensioner.

Alldata says it pays 3.9 hrs of labor

LONERANGERSR20

iTrader: (2)

i was having the same problem recently and couldnt figure where the hell it was leakin from, then suddenly it stopped

getyopapion

my car is leaking inbetween the inner and outer cover ...its hard to find out but there is a gap behind the alternator and the collant can be seen leaking ...ill post pictures tonight

SoonerFan

iTrader: (5)

the thermostat and return hose are in that area

Scottwax

iTrader: (8)

There is no way that is a 10 hour job, I know the timing belt, water pump and tensioner on my 626 (which has very tight access to the timing cover) took just over 5 by my mechanic. He could do my Accord's in a little over 4 hours but he specialized in Hondas.

The alldata 3.9 hour estimate sounds about right. I did ask my mechanic about the potential cost to replace a water pump (got 180k miles on mine, trying to see what problems my cost me down the road) and he said it was about a 4 hour job including replacing the tensioner if I wanted.

CraigSE

Did the water pump on my dads car a few months ago. NOT a 10 hour job.

It's really just a picky job... Gotta be careful not to drop stuff into the timing cover and be careful when removing, and trying to stick a paperclip into the tensioner piston takes an hour by itself I swear to god.

Other than that, its' really not that hard. A simple R&R.

phatboislim

iTrader: (27)

any updates on this? i'm having the same issues right now with a small leak in the front of my oil pan. i'm suspecting either the water pump, thermostat housing, coolant hose, or since this thread the oil cooler tube.

also is there a DIY thread or something on this?

bfolks

I am having the same problems as well on 2k Max. Keep us updated. Thx

BLUEMAX01SE

Must be the season for coolant leaks. I now today 1/3/2011 noticed a very small spot on my garage floor about center between front wheels. Have been keeping an eye on it through out the day but did not see any more spots. Car is again sitting overnight in garage on a clean surface as I am trying to see if it leaks a small amount again. Just had rad and hoses replaced Spring 2010. Has anyone experienced a small leak one day and it not return another?

JonBlz

iTrader: (11)

i had a leak from that pipe i cut it off and put a ss pipe there

nebojsa_o

iTrader: (1)

Exact same thing here. I noticed coolant in one of the splashguards or whatever they are, directly under that big coolant hose, but the hose is clean/dry/in one piece. Leaked yesterday, and I've been keeping an eye for more, but nothing. It's currently in the garage, with the garage heater running, I'm going out there in about an hour to see what I can find.

phatboislim

iTrader: (27)

whats teh level of difficulty of replacing that oil cooler tube?

Edward Lee

iTrader: (3)

unless your oil cooler line looks as bad as his, the line is probably fine and it's probably your water pump failing.

SteveB123

iTrader: (2)

Quite low.

phatboislim

iTrader: (27)

um...waaaaaaay off topic, but as big as your sig is i couldnt help but notice..your 5th is effin sexy as hail

Edward Lee

iTrader: (3)

^^^It was a response to this post. Totally on topic. BTW, thanks for the compliment on the car. My other car is even sexier.

Superduck

Update: Done at a local shop. Treated myself for another year of no car payment. Besides, I need to do shocks & struts...which I'll be tackling myself.

PTNR

iTrader: (2)

wow! i'm in the same boat. its most likely the age of the pumps in these cars - if that turns out to be the problem. i've got to check on all these possible culprits now. someone was going to post pics?

did anyone confirm a pump replacement fixed the issue or any other info?

thanks.

three.fiveSE

iTrader: (3)

I think i have a flow issue with my coolant as well. Which would lead me to the water pump. My car gets a little warm (fan on A LOT), but not hot or overheating. Nothing seems to make the temperature fluctuate (highway @ 70mph is the same as stop/go traffic & A/C makes no difference).

I have replaced the thermostat and did a full flush of the system. I am not seeing any leaking of coolant. Tomorrow my mechanic is going to take a look at it... before they do a swap of the water pump, they are going to do a compression test to make sure it is not the head gasket.

To confirm the 3.9 hours, they quoted me 4 hours to do the job. Total of $465 parts and labor.

To reiterate what PTNR said... "did anyone confirm a pump replacement fixed anything?"

nelledge

iTrader: (6)

This is what these cars are engineered to do. The system is working. What's the problem?

three.fiveSE

iTrader: (3)

Something is off if the fan is running nonstop. I had into the dealer to reset the idle (pedal trick did not stick), and they told me it was running hot. Just confirming my suspicion.

I guess my thought is that the water pump is going bad, and not yet completely bad.

Maybe I am in fact paranoid, but 600 miles in a day is not uncommon for me, and I would rather be preemptive in correcting a problem than be stranded.

nelledge

iTrader: (6)

What temperature did the dealer say you were running at? The fan being on can have an electrical cause (ex. bad sensor). I was only stating that alone, it's not a definite cause of a bad water pump. Excluding causes based solely on correlation can be very expensive. I know this from experience.

Amave

fans are supposed to come on at 212 degrees +/-



fans will come on high when the a/c is on


dealer should be able to see the temp at which the fans come on usning the CONSULT scan tool

PTNR

iTrader: (2)

funny thing about mine is i no longer see any drips as before. i suspect it is the cooler line that was leaking from the beginning but since that time, i haven't seen any drips nor has the coolant level gone down. i will at some point take a close look at the cooler line to see if in fact it has any wear but so far no more leaks.

three.fiveSE; if your temp guage isn't moving and your coolant level isn't dropping then i wouldn't be concerned. if there was a real problem, the fans running 100% of the time would not compensate for the temp rising in the engine. i know i sometimes used to think my fans were running alot but as they say, if it aint broke - don't fix it.

as far as the dealer's remarks go, they have a funny way of drumming up business when they know you have specific concerns. again, if the guage is always reading the same, then in my opinion i don't think you have a problem.

good luck.

three.fiveSE

iTrader: (3)

Thanks for the feedback guys.

FWIW, I never told the dealer that I was concerned about the fans. I guess maybe I will let it go for a little longer and see if anything worsens.

three.fiveSE

iTrader: (3)

Looks like the problem was the temperature sensor failed and was telling my ecu/fans i was running hotter than i actually was... phew!

nelledge

iTrader: (6)

Sounds vaguely familiar...

narmax

I saw your old post on the leaked coolant on splash guards..I have the exact same issue..Did you ever figure out what was causing the leak?

Thanks

rocketgirl

My 1995 has been leaking coolant for over 5 months and I still don't know what the problem is. Hoping for a way to find out if it is the water pump for sure or not and if the cost is worth fixing a 1000 dollar car.