Battery life question
01-31-2010, 03:47 PM
#1
Battery life question
How long did your OEM 5.5 gen battery last? my car will be 8 yrs old in july and i am still rocking the stock battery. even in the cold NY winter this year, car starts right up. how much longer should it last? no ICE in the car, just an infinity basslink..
01-31-2010, 04:15 PM
#2
So it lasted about 7 years. I tried filling it back up with distilled water and everything...no good.
01-31-2010, 04:46 PM
#4
I just replaced my oem battery in my '00 this year because i noticed it was turning over a little slower than it used to as the temperature dropped. It wasnt completely dead and is now in my boat running the trolling motor and fish finder. I doubt it would have made it through the winter though
01-31-2010, 06:06 PM
#9
01-31-2010, 06:24 PM
#11
01-31-2010, 08:51 PM
#15
No idea, the original owner replaced it when they owned it...with a cheap 510 CCA battery, when the FSM calls for a 584 CCA minimum. Replaced it with a Duralast Gold, which has 900 CCA or so. My car starts so much faster with it.
01-31-2010, 09:17 PM
#16
2003 and I've only had the car for a couple months. I was very suprised to see the Nissan logo on the battery. I'm assuming it has never been replaced in 7-8 years. I'll have to log the cut out date code off the battery to verify. Starts fantastic!
01-31-2010, 09:18 PM
#17
i remember last summer there were a few threads of 6th gen owners with batteries that were dying after like 2-3 years i wonder if they changed batteries between the 5th and 6th gens
01-31-2010, 09:40 PM
#18
That's really impressive. You can replace it with the first signs of old battery - 'not holding charge', 'slow cranking', etc. Engine needs only 1.5-2 a-h to get started. 55-60 a-h capacity is a side effect of a battery design neccessary to provide high starting current, typically ~100 A. In order to do that you need surface of the battery plates to be available. They 'corrode' with age and this active area shrinks with time until it's not enough to turn the engine.
01-31-2010, 09:55 PM
#19
Very impressive to see that you still have the original in there, mine showed signs of weakness all through last summer and fall and I finally had to replace it back in Dec. followed by the alternator this month, but I also run a lot of accessories - HID's - LED's interior and exterior - 2x10 subs - and an extra 1000 amp. So for me it was really only just a matter of time before things failed. Who knows you may still have lots of life still left depends upon what demands your putting on the system.
02-01-2010, 05:45 AM
#21
I'm pretty sure that Nissan batteries are manufactured by Interstate, and branded for Nissan.
It's standard practice at my dealership to test the battery every time I'm there. In December 2009 they finally said it was time, and that the cold cranking amps were low. I bought a new one from them for $90 after a few days of research. In the end, I decided the battery was just a battery, and not worth added attention as a mod or upgrade. It probably would have went longer without failing, but I wasn't going to mess. Since I bought my 2003 Maxima new in August 2002, that would be well over 7 years of use.
By the way, the replacement battery was a slightly different form-factor, so that OEM black plastic shroud no longer fit. However, it was black on all sides, not just the top, and looks aesthetically better than the original. So as far as appearance goes, it was a small improvement. (And my Racingline tie-down fit, too.)
It's standard practice at my dealership to test the battery every time I'm there. In December 2009 they finally said it was time, and that the cold cranking amps were low. I bought a new one from them for $90 after a few days of research. In the end, I decided the battery was just a battery, and not worth added attention as a mod or upgrade. It probably would have went longer without failing, but I wasn't going to mess. Since I bought my 2003 Maxima new in August 2002, that would be well over 7 years of use.
By the way, the replacement battery was a slightly different form-factor, so that OEM black plastic shroud no longer fit. However, it was black on all sides, not just the top, and looks aesthetically better than the original. So as far as appearance goes, it was a small improvement. (And my Racingline tie-down fit, too.)
02-15-2010, 10:03 AM
#24
Some say stay nissan, some say battery is a battery.
So whats the way to go OEM, or aftermarket replacement?
I am wondering what kind of results you would get with a grounding kit on a dying battery... I believe mine is almost toast, but wondering if the grounding kit is prolonging the death as I have been driving around a while with only isolated incidents.
So whats the way to go OEM, or aftermarket replacement?
I am wondering what kind of results you would get with a grounding kit on a dying battery... I believe mine is almost toast, but wondering if the grounding kit is prolonging the death as I have been driving around a while with only isolated incidents.
02-15-2010, 10:35 AM
#25
Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: New York
Posts: 25
The car is 7 years old and is on her second battery. Not bad. Cant believe your still rocking the stock battery!
02-15-2010, 11:20 AM
#26
Supporting Maxima.org Member
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: North Shore, MA
Posts: 1,795
After reading all of this, i think I may still have the stocker in my '03.
Up until now I assumed that the previous owner replaced it at some point which is why its doing fine now. But now that I read this, i think back, and it would make sense that its still the original.
I bought it in April of '07 with 55,000 miles which sounds pretty early to replace the battery. And the previous owner was very meticulous with his maintenance records and there was nothing about replacing the battery.
My car still starts like a champ every single morning, even with some morning in the negative digits.
Whenever I need to replace it, i was going to go with a Costco brand battery (made my Optima and quite inexpensive), but now I may have to rethink that.
Up until now I assumed that the previous owner replaced it at some point which is why its doing fine now. But now that I read this, i think back, and it would make sense that its still the original.
I bought it in April of '07 with 55,000 miles which sounds pretty early to replace the battery. And the previous owner was very meticulous with his maintenance records and there was nothing about replacing the battery.
My car still starts like a champ every single morning, even with some morning in the negative digits.
Whenever I need to replace it, i was going to go with a Costco brand battery (made my Optima and quite inexpensive), but now I may have to rethink that.
02-15-2010, 12:31 PM
#27
02-17-2010, 08:40 PM
#29
How do you know it is dying?
02-17-2010, 11:39 PM
#30
On my 4th battery> Oem>Exide>Exide>Optima Red Top.....Oh by the way Exide sucks times 2.....Don't waste your money guys this battery lacks life in the fast lane with an underdrive crank pulley......
02-19-2010, 08:43 AM
#31
4 to 5 years is all anyone should EXPECT out of battery.
The fact that you guys are still using the stocker is literally unbelievable to me!!
I'm at the END of my Second batt. since new in 02...waiting for it to die.
I've shopped a few batt's, and my first choice is a Duralast Gold from Autozone -- highly rated on Cosumer Reports, and a good buy @ abt. $90.
dlg-24 = 935cca / 750a <> dlg-35 = 800cca / 640a
Second would be an Interstate of comparable strength.
Sears Diehards are WAY overpriced.
Obviously, climate, dirving conditions, driver habits, and subjective car elements play-into battery life....so it really is a matter of LUCK if you're still running the orig. batt.
gr
The fact that you guys are still using the stocker is literally unbelievable to me!!
I'm at the END of my Second batt. since new in 02...waiting for it to die.
I've shopped a few batt's, and my first choice is a Duralast Gold from Autozone -- highly rated on Cosumer Reports, and a good buy @ abt. $90.
dlg-24 = 935cca / 750a <> dlg-35 = 800cca / 640a
Second would be an Interstate of comparable strength.
Sears Diehards are WAY overpriced.
Obviously, climate, dirving conditions, driver habits, and subjective car elements play-into battery life....so it really is a matter of LUCK if you're still running the orig. batt.
gr
Last edited by ghostrider17; 02-19-2010 at 09:05 AM.
02-19-2010, 10:41 AM
#33
Im in N.Y also. Just replaced the battery in my 02 last week. It didnt start. put jumper cables on it. Didnt even have the other car running and it started right up. I could have gotten longer outta it but why try.
02-19-2010, 01:08 PM
#35
and im on my second battery and ready for third at the time when i bought my second battery i was pretty much jobless and broke and had to get a cheap valuecraft and since im running two 7inch tvs with dvd player its killing it if i leave my lights on for a few min when i try to turn it on itll crank like its dead but eventually turn on.
02-20-2010, 12:39 PM
#39
It's most likely you, not the car. It seems you have electrical problem which will continue killing your batteries until you bother to fix it. I can only speculate it is your charging system - it's either under- or over- charging. The voltage test with voltmeter at 1k rpm should reveal the problem. It should be 13.8V +- 0.2V, temperature dependent (higher at lower temperature).