jowo9

iTrader: (1)

^^^ hey thanks a ton McSteve! I really appreciate that. Just a couple of questions...
Firstly, what are the V/T unmt settings for? And second, why do you have sensor types set as 1 IN / 4 OUT?? Do you have a different/bigger MAF?

essential1

iTrader: (5)

You never told me what you thought about that...

MoncefA33

iTrader: (6)

Do it

jowo9

iTrader: (1)

Huh... I just was reading through some of this thread, and remembered I had a question that wasn't answered. It's in post #98 in response to post #97.
Does anyone know?

MoncefA33

iTrader: (6)

Oops sorry about that.

Not sure what the V/T settings are for, the manual should have a description.

Shoot McSteve a PM on the sensor type question, I thought 1 in 4 out was the stock Maxima MAF.

jowo9

iTrader: (1)

Will do. Yeah, I've just read that you're supposed to use the same number for IN and OUT with a stock MAF. (like 1,1, or 4,4...)

MoncefA33

iTrader: (6)

Oh I myself know little about the AFC devices, since I have a GReddy.

T_Behr904

After reading most of this thread, I'm still not sure what to go with. It's all confusing since I have no idea what half the acronyms stand for...

MoncefA33

iTrader: (6)

Which acronyms are you having trouble with?
And what mods do you have/planning on getting?

T_Behr904

A few i know, such as CAI for cold air intake, MAF for mass air flow. If I could find a list of all the acronyms and what they mean, I wouldn't feel too bad! Some I don't know are VAFC, AFC, V/T, and most others relating to software tuning. I've never electronically tuned a car or have had one tuned, yet... Mods I have so far are just a resonator delete. I would like to get a Y-pipe, and an intake, and a tune to make good use of it. I am also planning on doing a suspension upgrade, rear wheel spacers, and a clutch kit. I don't want to get too crazy, cause it is a 150,000 mile daily driver, and I have a limited budget. As far as software goes, I'm looking to advance the timing and the fuel management for 93 octane gas that we have here. I would even consider dyno tuning it to get it just right.

nismoSEXIMA

iTrader: (4)

when he said what mods are you planning on doing i don't think he was talking about suspension and wheel spacers and a clutch..since these don't really apply to a piggyback such as a eManage...i think he was talking about performance mods to the engine..such as headers/y pipe and intake mods of that sort.....

jowo9

iTrader: (1)

VAFC = V-TEC Air flow controller
SAFC = Super Air flow controller
V/T = Just settings on the V/SAFC

My $0.02, get the y-pipe and other bolt-ons, and in the process, read read read on the org and you'll get to know alllll about tuning etc. There are a couple really decent threads on it. This one is great, and there's another about WBs (wide-bands) that I like...

You're not really at a point to be stressing about the finer details of tuning. Get the bolt-ons first.

T_Behr904

Ok, I see where you're coming from. Engine is all stock, exhaust is stock with the exception of the resonator delete. One thing I would like to do is have the intake secondaries open up at 4K instead of 5K. My Taurus SHO 3.0 5 speed I used to own would open up the intake runners at 4K, and it really pulled strong till the 7K redline. I just feel jipped only having 5K to 6.5K worth of DE-K awesomeness

jowo9

iTrader: (1)

Gah! You're all over the place with your posts! Talk about cluttering up a thread...

T_Behr904

I was thinking the same thing. Bolt-ons first, then tune. Definately gonna read up on the threads about the tuning, I have alot to learn for sure!

T_Behr904

Sorry guys, I didn't mean to clutter up the thread! My question was about if it was possible through tuning, to get the secondary intake runners to open up sooner than 5,000 rpm's. Is it possible?

nismoSEXIMA

iTrader: (4)

just pull em out..problem solved

T_Behr904

That's a possibility to consider, however I do like the low end torque for the stop and go commute I have to work and back, and I don't wanna kill it for top end performance only.

jowo9

iTrader: (1)

Good plan. Yeah, I've heard all about this, but unfortunately, I don't know too much. Don't quote me on this, but I THINK you can change the switchover point with the EU (e-manage ultimate)... and maayyyyybe with the VAFC II (because it's technically meant for hondas, and has the ability to change the vtec switchover point, which is similar)... I dunno, ask Moncef. He'd probably know.

MoncefA33

iTrader: (6)

VAFC2 can change the point that the VI opens. Don't know why you'd want it earlier, dynos show that between 4800-5000 RPM is its optimum point.

I took mine out

IMO, for a Y-pipe/Intake type deal, the AFR won't be affected enough to warrant gaining more power from a tune. If you do headers and some type of cat-back (go 3") then you'll see a lot more power from tuning.

T_Behr904

I'll leave the VI alone then... I was brainstorming about the idea, cause the VI on my SHO opened at 4,000 and it was a beast! I do appreciate everyone's advice, it has been helpful

red box

ANY ONE KNOWS THE IN/OUT ON A 6THGEN MAXIMA WITH A A34 MAF SENSOR FOR THE SAFCII?

SublimeKing

Just curious I haven't seen anything clear yet. A friend of mine told me that with a lot of mods you should eventually get a tune. I haven't began to modify yet but I was wondering how much a tune would run you from a shop? I am wondering if I pick up another car already modded if I should get it tuned and how much it would run me. Thanks

MoncefA33

iTrader: (6)

4in/4out I believe.

The kind of tuning device you choose will dictate how much a shop will charge to tune it. Shops normally charge $100/hour to tune a car's AFR/timing on a dyno.

ctsmith39

iTrader: (2)

Moncef why don't you just sell them one or tell SublimeKing what he should be looking at. As if they where smart it would be the standard full Cattman, SRI, spacer, and maybe a turbo if they are going fancy.

MoncefA33

iTrader: (6)

He needs to tell me what his setup is and future outlook for the car's motor setup to determine what kind of tuning he would need.

SublimeKing is still contemplating an actual car purchase.

SublimeKing

I was thinking either a 6 speed 2003 SE Maxima or A Spec-V VQ35 swap

ctsmith39

iTrader: (2)

I figured he already had it and had been thinking on this for a while. My Bad.

MoncefA33

iTrader: (6)

No prob. Come get some tuning parts from me.

SublimeKing

Well I am not going to lie, I do not know that much, kinda just getting really into cars now and I have always disliked Honda kids with them never shutting up about Civic's. I love my Maxima and have always preferred Nissan. I just want to get a standard and start modding but have no idea what I need for a tune. The car I am looking at right now is a Spec-V with a VQ35, full exhaust, Ram Air Intake and the owner says it has not been tuned yet. So I guess I am trying to figure out what kind of device I need to tune it, where can I get it and how much with will cost for that and a tune?

MoncefA33

iTrader: (6)

That depends on the existing ECU setup in the car, since I'm not sure how those swaps work in terms of wiring. If it's converted to a standalone ECU, you should just be able to have it tuned. The price is gonna depend on the shop.

If it has the VQ35 ECU & engine harness you can run a standalone unit (most expensive option, allows for maximum control of every variable) or a piggyback, which in this case I'd recommend a TurboXS UTEC to get the most power out of the swap. (allows for timing, injector and rev limit control).

sparks03max

iTrader: (7)

At the very cheapest, you could go with a VAFC-II and just get airfuel tuned. Tuning can range anywhere from 150 to 500 depending on what device you choose and how long the tuner spends getting it dialed in.

Also for you other tuner types... There's a UTEC for sale on the Z forums for $375 right now.

Awesome UTEC info thread on nissanclub.

http://www.nissanclub.com/forums/eng...ad-2009-a.html

"Hey I am just posting every bit of information I have found about the Turbo XS UTEC.
It is what I have read on my350Z and Maxima.org concerning the UTEC.

I will try and organize the information for everyone to read and have access to so feel free to contribute.
This is just info I found so far to understand this technology.
Sorry if it is common knowledge for some.
Please post any info if it helps.
To help understand everything involved with this device.
UTEC Revelant info Thread by SE-R Altima Driver.

5 Things.
1.) TurboXS UTEC Unit
2.) Wideband Sensor (UTEC ONE) must have serial output.
3.) Software installed on a laptop.
4.) USB, Serial Cables, and
5.) UTEC Map sensor/ UTEC Remote Map Selector Switch.
6.) Also helps if you have access to a Dyno. Mustang Dynos are best for 'tuning' since they simulate load.
7.) TurboXS Tuner- UTEC dashboard in Hyperterminal. connects between the utec turboXS and the pc.

UTEC - Can be used as a piggyback or stand alone. Full control of hard timing and fuel. Monitors and controls knock at all rpms. MAF or MAP operation. Excellent system for forced induction. Full plug and play. Doesn't control cam timing.

How does it work as standalone?
Open loop fueling mode, it uses it's own base maps that you adjust.
the UTEC adjusts timing after the signal leaves the ECU (post ecu) so the ECU has no idea what the timing actually is at that point.

The front UTEC Ports from left to right. The RJ-12 Adapter allows for Serial Port connectivity with the use of our adapter.

The large connector in the middle is where you will connect the factory ECU. This is part of our plug and play installation, zero hardwiring is needed. Located on the far right is the UTEC On-board map selector. This used to switch between the 5 map locations, valet and security mode.

The rear UTEC Ports from left to right. The first port is the UTEC 9v power input. This is used to power the UTEC outside of the vehicle. The second input is the optional Map Sensor input. This is used when running a vehicle in Speed Density Mode. The optional map sensor has the ability to read up to 70 psi.

The third input is to use a USB adapter to connect. The fourth is yet another form of connection to the UTEC, DB9 Serial port. The last port is to connect our Remote Map Selector. This allows you to remotely switch between the maps.

The UTEC gives you the ability to let the factory ECU drive the car under normal cruise conditions then take over when you are ready for the power in a flawless manor. This gives you like stock drive-ability with the advantages of a powerful stand-alone system. The UTEC allows you to maintain OBDII compliancy while remaining unnoticed to the OBD Scan process most states are adopting these days.

In basic form we allow control over Fuel and Ignition Timing. Each control gives you 250 rpm resolution from 500 rpm to rev-limit with over 10 different load sites.

The UTEC will ship with pre-programmed base maps to help get you up and driving right away. In addition to having a pre-programmed base maps the UTEC has provisions for 5 different map locations. The multi-map capability allows you to use our remote map selector to switch between the 5 maps or stock mode on the fly. Your tuning options are endless when you can have a race map and daily driving map at the tip of your fingers. The power is all yours!

The easiest way to visualize it would be to break down it’s components into separate systems.

Fuel Control
The UTEC has two fuel control modes. Each of them have a fuel map that allows the fuel to be adjusted at each of the 250 rpm resolution with over 10 different load sites from zero to rev-limit.

MAF Pull Up/Down
allows you to intercept the MAF signal and add or subtract up to +/- 50% of the signal. This form of fuel control works best for mild naturally aspirated modifications.

Speed Density Fuelling
allows you to use your MAF for low load cruising situations. Under heavier load the UTEC will employ Speed Density Fuelling.

The fuel map will allow you to enter Injector Pulse-width X10 into the table. This allows for precise fuel control. In the map you are now specifying millisecond on times of your injectors. This mode is a necessity for Forced Induction vehicles.

The optional UTEC Map sensor is required.

Ignition Timing
The UTEC gives you complete control of timing. This is not done on the basis of offsets or altering the crank signal as some engine management systems use. The load reference we use is RPM vs. MAF or MAP which is optional. This allows the fuel map to be adjusted at each of the 250 rpm resolution with over 10 different load sites from zero to rev limit. When you enter a value into the Ignition Map you are actually typing in Degrees Before Top Dead Center. The UTEC fires the coils based on these values. No more wondering if the stock ecu is going to advance or retard timing.

Example of this:
When you are running the hard timing with the UTEC, ie 29 BTDC @ 6500, then ECU is no longer controlling the timing and will throw you a reading of 18 BTDC or something like that. Basically the UTEC adjusts timing after the signal leaves the ECU so the ECU has no idea what the timing actually is at that point.

Knock Control
This feature allows you to help Monitor and control knock at all rpms
I figure this will help people understand it a bit better.

UTEC Remote Map Selector Switch (UTEC-Switch) - Price: $79.00
it just has to be below 1600 rpm to switch. Plus the switch is in one of the nissan blanks so it can be put into one of the blanks on the dash that is not used or in the console if you don't have heated seats.

Question:
Do you need to turn off your car when switching remotely between maps?
Answer: Jim hit this already, you just have to be below 1600 RPM, you can either use the map switch or turn the **** on the UTEC. The switch is infinitely more convenient though.

SOFTWARE
2 different softwares available plus Hyperterminal when using the TurboXS Tuner.
Software GUI is much easier to read then the UTEC dashboard in Hyperterminal.
This software also will allow you to log the wideband with the UTEC logs.

Software programs also appears to have some really cool tools to help you tune.

1. MAP Sensor - I assume this is to display the OEM MAP sensor voltage. Our cars don't have OEM MAP sensors, so it just stays 0. However, it does log the UTEC MAP sensor perfectly, which is all we really need.

2. MAF (Frequency). The heading is labeled frequency, when the value we are looking at is voltage. The number provided appears to be correct, and I checked it against the value in the UTEC dashboard and the numbers matched up perfectly (at idle). I belive this to be the accurate voltage, just the wrong label.

Laptop or Computer Requirements and Connections:
a Windows XP pro laptop with a Quatech PCMCIA to Serialx2 card. The Quatech card (DSPR-100) provides two serial ports (com 6 and 7 on my machine) and works perfectly with the UTEC, the wideband, and this software.

as far as the usb goes. my computer has automatically detected the usb cable a couple times and a couple times i had to physically install the usb driver that you get with the utec instruction pack. what i did do is i took out the factory bracket for the stock computer and i mounted the utec and stock computer together. then i turned the whole new computer sideways and used a couple straps to secure the utec in sideways. now i can reach all the cable connections cause they are all aimed down....

the program uses the Windows standard MSCOMM32.dll provided by microsoft to communicate with the com ports. I've tested this program on 3 different laptops personally, and have had feedback from many other people that do not have a crashing problem.

I used a USB-to-serial cable which works fine also. I dont have the TUNER module which would be really helpful so either I get one or I get this program to work!

TurboXS Tuner
Mine is connected same as yours, UTEC to Tuner and Tuner to PC.
I have the TurboXS Tuner attached inline to my UTEC. The 9 pin serial wire goes from the UTEC to the Tuner, and the 15 pin O2 wideband sensor line goes to the Tuner. The Tuner is connected to the laptop via a phone line looking cord that has a serial connector on the end going into the laptop. (This is the updated Tuner) So the whole thing is plugged into the serial port on the laptop. This setup works great with the Hyperterminal.

a female DB9 solder cup connector. I had some 2 wire beldon cable laying around so I soldered one wire to Pin 2 of the connector and the other wire to Pin 5. Pin 2 is the signal (tx) of the serial signal, so connect Pin 2 to the output of the guage. Pin 5 is the signal ground, so simply ground it. I grounded it with the UEGO ground.

output to laptop via R12-to-serial connector from tuner box gen 2.

UTEC SOFTWARE PROGRAMS:
1.) UTI - Jeffsoftware one supports the 350z. JeffSoftware.com
2.) MPS logger. Download at:http://www.mpsav.com/MPSUTECLogger/M...r_Download.htm
3.) UTEC HYPERTERMINAL:- Think it used with TurboXS Tuner- UTEC dashboard
The UTEC appears to send all the data as ASCII text to the laptop.
Spreadsheet comes with all the software

UTI installed Notes:
your best bet is UTI, version 2.7.x
UTEC with the TUNER kit, and I found UTI very very usefull aswell.
UTI version 2.7.5 logs it and coolant if you tell it too.
you should download and install UTI3
UTI has a lot more extra than MPS and cheaper. MPS don't have Dashboard Mode were you can see your IAT, no Audible, no Auto logging probably more. I havent used MPS in a long time but can't remember if it can compensate for the delay for the A/F. I looked at my old MPS logs and there was also a delay so this i not just a UTI thing.

UTI and UTEC Logger both monitor and log virtually everything, they will even auto log pulls, give audible alarms etc. The autotune function is their best feature, you just tell it what a/f you are shooting for and it will not only tell you the difference between what you are getting and what you are shooting for but it will even merge with your map to modify it automatically. I am still not sure which I like best because they are both being updated with new features on a regular basis and the $30 price is great.

I just read the big thread on NASIOC forum about UTI. The auto tune stuff caught my eye for doing my part throttle AFR tuning. If I understand it right the UTI-me program will take your UTI log compare it to your target AFR.csv file and a UTEC tune file and create an new edited UTEC tune file for you to upload to the UTEC that is supposed to be closer to your tru target AFR.csv file? I'd of course want to review the new UTEC tune file data before uploading it.

If the above is correct and works as advertised you can drive around part throttle and use the UTI data logging in many load scenarios to populate the log cells to match the UTEC tune cells. After this is done a few times your AFR across the board should be pretty close to you target.

Official UTEC Interface Thread - Page 31 - NASIOC

The procedure for autotuning with UTI is as follows:

- Open with UTI-ME the "Target AFR" table of UTI, file "PumpGas.csv" and modify the values as your needs.
- Open UTI, and clear the tables, then start driving around to populate the tables with data. When you have finish collecting data, press the button "autotune" in UTI. You can save this tables data if you want but is not necessary.
- Open UTI-ME again, open your actual fuel-ignition map and open the data tables of UTI, that will be the file "Tables.csv".
Now UTI-ME will merge the values and make and approach of the changes that you need in your fuel map to reach your target AFR.
Be sure to save your "autotune fuel map" and upload to UTEC, and start the process again.

I use UTI-ME for all my tuning. Takes a little getting used to because instructions are sparse. It takes 3 or 4 runs to get it really close and then you can manually touch it up if you desire. I have also found that making multiple runs on the same table will average out much better than a single run.

with a 3rd party WB delay is inconsistent and that is why looking at the raw logs are better

I was only suggesting UTI-ME for manually editing a map. After I go out and do some runs (going to the grocery store or something), I bring my laptop inside and analyze the logs. Then I just make changes to the map using ME, and upload it to the UTEC next time I go for a drive.


MPS_UTECLogger Notes
will set the port settings to the correct spec when the WBO2 type is changed. The program doesn't care that the UTEC runs at 19200, and the AEM talks at 9600. You're defining the baud specs when you select the wide band type from the list, thus why you can't change types while the com port is open also.

You can also use hyperterminal to verify the values being reported. Call the UTEC and at the main screen push '1' on your keyboard. It will set the UTEC in to log mode and will start spitting data out the com port to your laptop.

With MPS you have to manually log so you'll have one big raw data, with UTI all you have to do is power it on and once it detect you are doing a Pull then it will automatically log it for you, it will also automatically log if it detect knock. It is nice to have a separate file for your knock and makes it easy to find it.

MPS they claim that"While there may be other LogMappers available to process UTEC logs, only the UTECLogger's integrated LogMapper has the EXCLUSIVE feature in that runs in "real-time" from data gathered from the UTEC as you drive! This allows you to visually see your LogMap being built right before your eye's.

mps_uteclogger- data logging mode, improve the column 0 tune significantly
I downloaded and installed the MPS logger

MPS_UTEC program - programming mode.

The UTEC appears to send all the data as ASCII text to the laptop.

UTEC PROGRAM DISPLAYS OR REPORTS:
AFR, Ingnition, Target AFR, Change required, Knock, duty, pulse width etc etc etc

Here are my initial impressions:

Installation is a pain. It doesn't come with an installer, so you have to manually copy files to the /windows/system32 folder and manually register the .dll files. I got it to work fine on my laptop, but it was missing a .dll on my carputer. I had to find the .dll on my laptop and copy it to my carputer and then manually register it because that specific .dll file wasn't included in the software package.

As far as I can tell, it doesn't have a 'full screen' display mode, which is terribly inconvenient. It does have a full screen 'guage' mode, but it only dipslays a/f and boost - in an analog guage format. I really like the MPS full screen digital guage display. My carputer displays on my OEM navi screen, so the bigger the better.

***MPS_UTECLogger v.3.0 is now avail on the web. ***
Log Analyzer is a great software.

New features include:

- Support for WRX, STi, Evo8, and 350z/G35 Utec's

- Now supports PLX Devices WB, Tech Edge2.0 WB, and Zeitronix WB in addition to previously supported wide-band meters. (LM-1, LC-1, AEM, and Tuner)

- Now supports connecting the TurboXS Tuner in-line with UTEC.

- More Hotkeys and HotKey Help

- New interface "Look".

- FULL User Manual!

- More Bug fixes...

- Pay version (w/ 30 Day Free Trial)

Download at:
http://www.mpsav.com/MPSUTECLogger/M...r_Download.htm

Notes about the two software programs.
It has single key connect/disconnect, but it doesn't do port scanning to auto configure the com ports.

If the meter only has an analog output then it will not work. Any wide-band meter used for logging NEEDS to have an rs-232 (serial) output capability. I believe the PLX R-Series WB may be the only PLX wideband that has serial output. Sorry for the confusion, I have updated the web page to reflect the specific 'R-Series' models.

You will need the RS232 output.

Another interesting tip if you are tuning the UTEC in a NA car, is that you surely have realized that usually you only log data in very few load columns, maybe from 40% to 90%, making to the UTEC to have less resolution in the mapping.

To make the UTEC to log in all the columns you have to change the min and max voltage of MAF for mapping in the parameters section of the UTEC. I think I have something like min voltage set to 2.6 and max 4.8. Play with these values and you would see how now you enter in other columns, increasing your map resolution.

GUI but now I always look at the Raw Data since you can see how much is the delay. It is not like the data are bad, it is just a little bit delayed so you just have to take that into consideration when reading the logs. I usually try to use my TPS+Load+A/F to match them. If your TPS is 0 and load is 0 then there is no way in hell your A/F should be 11.1... lol also it is not a straight matching since when you let go of the gas, there is also a delay before your wideband goes back close to the stoich #'s so you have to take that into account.

UTEC HYPERTERMINAL: used with TurboXS Tuner- UTEC dashboard
i'm using the hyperterminal software from utec

Think the tuner measures the A/F, Ignition, Coolant Temp, IAT, Boost.
Not sure yet.

Both of the programs listed above will work with various WB's and have a multitude of enhancements including autotune which make them much superior to the UTEC software.
In a direct comparison between MPS logger and UTI I can't say that there is a definate winner. The UTI definately has more features, but it cost $20. In my opinion, I'm not sure the extra features are worth the money. I think that MPS is one update away from being the better (and free) software.

It still amazes me that these two individuals have made such great software packages for the UTEC, when TurboXS can't seem to figure it out. Kudos to both Jason and Jeff.

WIDEBAND SENSORS:***TurboXS Wideband***

AEM wideband might not work.
My AEM wideband has a serial output. I hooked this to a DB9 connector I bought at Radioshack and plugged it in to a 2nd serial port on my laptop (I have a PCMCIA card with 2 ports). The Utec was hooked up to the other serial port.

it should work with the Innovate LC-1 as well, even though he advertises it working with the LM-1.
there seem to be issues with UTI software and the Innovate LM-1

The stock widebands are ok N/A because that is what they are designed for but they are innacurate both high and low so don't use them for any kind of boost ie turbo/sc/nitrous.

P.S. If you want one of these cheap check the 350z board, I got mine for $500 with switch and map sensor.

HOW TO USE THE SOFTWARE NOTES:

Pretty much, you start out stock and make SMALL adjustments, ONE at a time. Not adjusting a column is your base map so to speak. Then you play until you get something that works and doesn't blow up

UTEC 'Upgrade?' - Page 22 - MY350Z.COM Forums

It runs off of windows terminal which is similar to DOS, no GUI interface and it doesn't allow any other WB than TurboXS.

I logged with just the utec and tuner pro it has never let me down.

UTI Software Notes.
settings are
Tigger Retain
1500 rpm 6000
1 map 10
40 tps 750
10 load 500
knock threshold 1
termination delay 2
min lines retain 6

I have the Log During termination delay off. It also doesn't show your knock status either. or knock correction the 6700 may be your problem. that is the figure that tells it to save the log. the log is starting, but maybe you aren't hitting 6700 to save it. try lowering that value.
I dropped it down to 6000 rpms it is saving logs now.

Please also mention which cable you are using, either the USB or serial one. I do not know how UTI will respond to the USB setup so it is likely that I might need to make adjustments for that to work if it does not already.

Jeff Wrote the UTI Software I believe.

the UTEC will LOG and you can make csv files to put into excel. But unless you have the TUNER module, the A/F is not logged as a column with the rest of the data. This software basically accomplishes that with standard wideband gauges (so you wouldnt need the TUNER module and possibly a second wideband in your car).

The software does have have a cell logging mode that will average all your cell readings in real time, its pretty cool. At the end of the log you can choose which parimeter to look at. This software should definately speed up tuning, especially for those who don't have the tuner pack.

I can read vacuum/boost, AEM wideband, RPM, TPS, Timing, MAF (voltage, NOT Hz), and inj. duty cycle.

Although the dashboard shows the unit of measure to be Hz for the MAf the correct voltage is displayed (as compared to the voltage in Hyperterminal).

In the "FILE" menu at the top left of the UTI screen, click on the "mode" button. it wil give you a side bar choice of "logger 1" or "dashboard". choose "dashboard"

If you have a Tuner then 2.7 does the job without any problem or error.

turbo xs UTEC tuner.

register the ocx and dll file after copying it to the system32 folder?

There is a txt file that come with the 2.7.5 for installation procedure for every OCX and DLL files.
You cant just unzip the file and start running the program. Like I said, installation procedure is pretty much a manual process since you have to copy them to the right folder and you have to register the dll's.

I usually look at the raw logs when making adjustment. I just use the UTI because of the audible and the auto logging feature (especially the knock count logs). It is also easier to do a spot checking with the matrix table for the A/F, Boost, Timing, IDC..etc... but when I need to make adjustment I still like looking at the raw logs the new software for UTI3 is up and available for download at JeffSoftware.com

I use usb and connect through the tuner.if I connect with utec only nothing works.
Dashboard mode only work if you have the tuner (at least for majority and especially for the older 2.7.5 ver). Without Dashboard mode then you wont be able to log AIT and Coolant temp.

i use usb for utec and serial for aem wideband

I logged with just the utec and tuner pro it has never let me down.

switching between modes after connecting by hitting F1 and F2.

To edit a map outside of the UTEC, you can use UTI-ME. I believe it still comes with the UTI logger program, or you can purchase it separately."

atxking27

iTrader: (8)

Figured I'd post in here than start a new thread, I had my wife call a shop that works on mostly nissans, Z's anyway, and asked about my supercharger install. They said that they tried using the greddy emanage ultimate on another maxima and that it doesnt work. She said he didnt elaborate but that they dont work on maximas so to get my money back. WTF was this guy talking about? I have never heard of them not working and thought they (EMU) were universal. IDK anymore about this thing. Might have to tow the damn car to Texas to a shop I know will do it. Oh well, in the mean time, any insight on this would be great

MoncefA33

iTrader: (6)

Go to the VQpower.com how to section, 5th gen electronics. Download the dandymax EU writeup.

He probably can't find jumper or parameter settings specific to the maxima ECU. The dandymax writeup has them.

Mr. Brett

iTrader: (7)

Are you talking about Crawford Z?

They told me they'd install my VAFC-II if so. I don't see why they wouldn't install an EU on a 3.0. Was your wife specific that you have a VQ30 and not a VQ35? Considering that the EU can be kind of volatile when it comes to the 5.5's ECU.

MoncefA33

iTrader: (6)

They probably can install it but typically a shop will try and use the GReddy manual which has no settings for a DEK for jumpers or parameter setting. It's not a matter of installation, you can install an EU and the car won't start if it's not setup properly.

atxking27

iTrader: (8)

Yes, it was crawford z. I was specific with her, i wrote everything out for her to say, lol. But they said they've dealt with maximas before and that it didnt work and he still had the guys emanage sitting there. Im still searching, I got quoted 2500 for the complete install at another shop out towards Bristol.

Mr. Brett

iTrader: (7)

Hmm...give Deft Motion a call. I don't know what Crawford's deal is. Sometimes they're more than willing to help out, and sometimes they don't give a damn. I don't understand how they do business...

jowo9

iTrader: (1)

Just bought a set of DE-K/Z33 injectors to use w/ my VAFCII. I know it's the poor man's way to advance timing, but it should still be fun

sparks03max

iTrader: (7)

IMO post in your regional forums for someone willing to do a EU install. Make sure they have references and know what they are doing, but there are good peeps on these forums who should be able to help you out for way cheaper.