Started to get oxidation in the headlight...time for..
#1
Started to get oxidation in the headlight...time for..
Is it time to put these suckers in the oven? Has anyone had this oxidation problem and if so, what route have you gone?
Also if you're viewing this and have the bookmark for baking the headlights, could you link it? If not I will check the search later at work. Running around right now otherwise I'd search.
Anyone in SF want to get into a Headlight project?
Also if you're viewing this and have the bookmark for baking the headlights, could you link it? If not I will check the search later at work. Running around right now otherwise I'd search.
Anyone in SF want to get into a Headlight project?
#2
Are your headlights fogging on the outside, or is there condensation on the inside?
Fogging requires just a polishing, condensation requires drying it out, which can be done with a hairdryer through the lamp opening. Then you need to figure out where the moisture is entering from. first check the lamp socket seals then the edge seals of the lense.
Fogging requires just a polishing, condensation requires drying it out, which can be done with a hairdryer through the lamp opening. Then you need to figure out where the moisture is entering from. first check the lamp socket seals then the edge seals of the lense.
#5
I did have the front blinker bulb out now that I think of it. So I'm assuming with the information provided that water could of enter. So I'm taking a hair dryer to opening of the lamps. This requires me removing the battery and everytime I seem to touch the battery something ends up not working.
So this should be a fun afternoon project thanks for bringing "light" onto this for me. I'll try this out and let ya'll know. Thanks
So this should be a fun afternoon project thanks for bringing "light" onto this for me. I'll try this out and let ya'll know. Thanks
#6
BTW here's the writeup on baking and opening the headlights: http://www.shiftice.com/angel_eyes.html
#8
The sanding and the polishing should have helped. I wonder what the issue is on your headlamps.
I read (and have tried) Brazzo and it helped. I had 50% improvement on the cloudiness. I am sure if I do it again, I will get it better some more. A lot of elbow grease required, though.
I read (and have tried) Brazzo and it helped. I had 50% improvement on the cloudiness. I am sure if I do it again, I will get it better some more. A lot of elbow grease required, though.
#9
http://www.amazon.com/3M-Headlight-L.../dp/B001AIZ5HY
Used it on my 5.5's after I put them in my AE. Made a world of a difference.
Used it on my 5.5's after I put them in my AE. Made a world of a difference.
#12
Senior Member
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Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Cherry Hill, NJ / Hoboken, NJ
Posts: 1,325
One of those "headlight restoration kits" is the best choice.
The problem with wetsanding is the clear coat. What keeps the headlight lens plastic from yellowing due to UV is the clear coat.
With wetsanding, you remove the chips, but also the clear coat. So it will look good, but it will oxidize again, depending on how much UV your lights get (some people complain 3 months after wetsanding, others might be good for 3 years).
Your best bet is to get a restoration kit that includes some sort of clear coat or protectant to put over it. Or, if you do wet sand, make sure that you regularly apply PlastX or another polish to protect it from UV.
I don't really get the fascination with Brasso. I've used it, and it is just not that effective. It can clean up the surface a little bit, simply because it's a polishing compound, but there are so many other options out there actually designed for headlights.
The problem with wetsanding is the clear coat. What keeps the headlight lens plastic from yellowing due to UV is the clear coat.
With wetsanding, you remove the chips, but also the clear coat. So it will look good, but it will oxidize again, depending on how much UV your lights get (some people complain 3 months after wetsanding, others might be good for 3 years).
Your best bet is to get a restoration kit that includes some sort of clear coat or protectant to put over it. Or, if you do wet sand, make sure that you regularly apply PlastX or another polish to protect it from UV.
I don't really get the fascination with Brasso. I've used it, and it is just not that effective. It can clean up the surface a little bit, simply because it's a polishing compound, but there are so many other options out there actually designed for headlights.
#13
One of those "headlight restoration kits" is the best choice.
The problem with wetsanding is the clear coat. What keeps the headlight lens plastic from yellowing due to UV is the clear coat.
With wetsanding, you remove the chips, but also the clear coat. So it will look good, but it will oxidize again, depending on how much UV your lights get (some people complain 3 months after wetsanding, others might be good for 3 years).
Your best bet is to get a restoration kit that includes some sort of clear coat or protectant to put over it. Or, if you do wet sand, make sure that you regularly apply PlastX or another polish to protect it from UV.
I don't really get the fascination with Brasso. I've used it, and it is just not that effective. It can clean up the surface a little bit, simply because it's a polishing compound, but there are so many other options out there actually designed for headlights.
The problem with wetsanding is the clear coat. What keeps the headlight lens plastic from yellowing due to UV is the clear coat.
With wetsanding, you remove the chips, but also the clear coat. So it will look good, but it will oxidize again, depending on how much UV your lights get (some people complain 3 months after wetsanding, others might be good for 3 years).
Your best bet is to get a restoration kit that includes some sort of clear coat or protectant to put over it. Or, if you do wet sand, make sure that you regularly apply PlastX or another polish to protect it from UV.
I don't really get the fascination with Brasso. I've used it, and it is just not that effective. It can clean up the surface a little bit, simply because it's a polishing compound, but there are so many other options out there actually designed for headlights.
#15
One of those "headlight restoration kits" is the best choice.
The problem with wetsanding is the clear coat. What keeps the headlight lens plastic from yellowing due to UV is the clear coat.
With wetsanding, you remove the chips, but also the clear coat. So it will look good, but it will oxidize again, depending on how much UV your lights get (some people complain 3 months after wetsanding, others might be good for 3 years).
Your best bet is to get a restoration kit that includes some sort of clear coat or protectant to put over it. Or, if you do wet sand, make sure that you regularly apply PlastX or another polish to protect it from UV.
I don't really get the fascination with Brasso. I've used it, and it is just not that effective. It can clean up the surface a little bit, simply because it's a polishing compound, but there are so many other options out there actually designed for headlights.
The problem with wetsanding is the clear coat. What keeps the headlight lens plastic from yellowing due to UV is the clear coat.
With wetsanding, you remove the chips, but also the clear coat. So it will look good, but it will oxidize again, depending on how much UV your lights get (some people complain 3 months after wetsanding, others might be good for 3 years).
Your best bet is to get a restoration kit that includes some sort of clear coat or protectant to put over it. Or, if you do wet sand, make sure that you regularly apply PlastX or another polish to protect it from UV.
I don't really get the fascination with Brasso. I've used it, and it is just not that effective. It can clean up the surface a little bit, simply because it's a polishing compound, but there are so many other options out there actually designed for headlights.
#16
Senior Member
iTrader: (11)
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Cherry Hill, NJ / Hoboken, NJ
Posts: 1,325
Once you've restored them, make sure you regularly apply a wax or plastic polish or sealant to them to prevent them from yellowing.
#18
Yes. If they're really bad, using a buffing compound alone won't be enough. You'll need to wet sand with progressively finer grits, then buff it out with a plastic polish, or apply a clear coat or something.
Once you've restored them, make sure you regularly apply a wax or plastic polish or sealant to them to prevent them from yellowing.
Once you've restored them, make sure you regularly apply a wax or plastic polish or sealant to them to prevent them from yellowing.
http://www.chemicalguys.com/category_s/124.htm
I doubt 2500 grit will do it for mine though.
Last edited by kbohip; 01-21-2010 at 10:59 PM.
#26
#28
Senior Member
iTrader: (11)
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Cherry Hill, NJ / Hoboken, NJ
Posts: 1,325
This kit includes a clearcoat
http://www.doublehornproducts.com/pr...8&cat=1&page=1
http://www.doublehornproducts.com/pr...8&cat=1&page=1
#29
I usually tell people to avoid baking their headlights. Much can go wrong if you aren't careful. A heat gun works just as well, and you can monitor how much heat you're throwing at the headlight. If you can source a heat gun, i would recommed trying it in the event you are going to take them apart. As everyone else has stated, there are a pile of products made to clean up the oxidation problem many of us have. It's not permanent, and you'll have to do it about twice a year to keep them looking clear.
#30
Senior Member
iTrader: (11)
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Cherry Hill, NJ / Hoboken, NJ
Posts: 1,325
I usually tell people to avoid baking their headlights. Much can go wrong if you aren't careful. A heat gun works just as well, and you can monitor how much heat you're throwing at the headlight. If you can source a heat gun, i would recommed trying it in the event you are going to take them apart. As everyone else has stated, there are a pile of products made to clean up the oxidation problem many of us have. It's not permanent, and you'll have to do it about twice a year to keep them looking clear.
If you heat it for 10-15 minutes at 250 degrees, the glue is fully melted and the lens will slide right off like butter. Put on a glove, grab the lens firmly, and you can just pull it apart with your hands.
Or, you can heat it for 5 minutes at 200 degrees with the door partially open, then have glue that is softened but not melted, and break your headlights because you're trying to pry it apart with a few screwdrivers.
#32
My 2003 has needed this for more than a year. Last week I was told that it wouldn't pass inspection as is. That was probably a load of crap, but I just picked up the Turtle Wax kit for $9. It took me less than 10 minutes per side, and they look brand new. I'm not sure how long it'll last, but with as little effort as this required I'm not too worried about it. If I had known it would be this easy, I wouldn't have waited as long as I did.
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