hawnboy

Last week my wife's 2K overheated (big time) due to a large crack in the radiator. We were able to gluide her down to a gas station to add water after dying out on an on-ramp. I was able to drive her home and I put her to rest for the evening. The next day I tore out the radiator and ran her to purge out any air that may heve been trapped in the cooling system. After I replaced the radiator I did noticed that the engine took a bit longer to start. It went from crank, crank varoom before the overheat, to crank, crank, crank, crank, crank, crank, crank, crank, crank, crank, crank, crank varoooom. But after it starts it runs just fine, and with no problems!

Can't figure out what is wrong. Is it a bad cold start sensor! Bad ignighters! Bad initial fuel delivery!

By the way, what are the symptoms of bad ignighters?

Any ideas on where to start would help! Thanks!

The6spdMax

iTrader: (23)

Did the slow crack happen everytime or just one time?

P. Samson

How long was the temp gauge pegged? Does the long cranking time happen on hot starts as well as cold starts? Is the SES light on? Did it come on when the overheating occured? Did the engine get sprayed by coolant from the crack in the rad? Did you disconnect the battery when you did the rad replacement? If you did disconnect the battery this can affect engine operation for a period of time (the "relearn") including the engine starts. If the engine is running OK once it starts, it's unlikey that the spark plug/s (igniters.....I associate with gas turbines) are the problem because of the overheating alone. A spark plug not firing is going to cause a miss and the engine will shake.

knight_yyz

iTrader: (40)

depending on how long the car was overheating you may have damaged the heads. But you will soon know if that is the problem, as you will start to see smoke, and coolant loss.

Lontar1

iTrader: (5)

is the car running ok now?

rroderiques77

iTrader: (45)

That's right. You now may have coolant leaking into your cylinders causing the starting problem. You should get a block test.

hawnboy

Thanks for all of the post and replies.

First of all the car is running and running smooth for that fact. The start up process takes a bit longer than before. The extended crank up last for about 3 to 5 seconds before it "fire's up". As compared to 1 to 2 seconds before the incident. It cranks over like this cold or hot.
There are no signs of smoke or steam coming out of the tail pipe. No apparent water in the oil because it's not milkey at all.
The temp gauge never pegged out and only showed a 1/3 readding. It did take a lot of water to refill at the gas station.

Any ideas?

hawnboy

The temp gauge did not peg out and it does it cold and hot. The SES was on prior to the overheat. Not sure what code it's throwing now and will check tomorrow after work. The engine did get sprayed by hot coolant coming out of the radiator as I tried to refill and cool the system down. But I did not disconnect the battery at anytime. I was thinking of doing that to see if that would help me out. I'm wondering if I may have overheater one of the sensors under the hood!

Thanks for your ideas and help!

hawnboy

So I pulled my neg. battey cable and that seem to help the extended crank up period. Starts up like it use too. Finally go to figure out my SES light codes. 011, 021, 340, 1147, 1800. Also the engine shut down on me twice in the last three day while driving. Trying to figure this one out before I have to run her into the shop.

Thanks in advance for any help that any of you proud owners can provide.

hawnboy

Also, the Electronic control throttle actuator clicks after the engine shuts down. Is this normal? Humm!