Are all MOOG parts upgrades?
02-03-2010, 01:07 PM
#81
Um, no. I've read many of your posts... don't undervalue your contributions to this forum. You've got my respect, so quit with the self-deprecating nonsense and accept it already.
02-03-2010, 06:42 PM
#82
Ok, I guess I thought I knew what I was doing, but in reality its apparent that I dont.
I am trying to create a R/R situation. I want to build the replacement assembly outside the car and just basically pull the old assembly off and install the new assembly without having to disassemble the old assembly.
7,8,10 are part of the Moog assembly. 15 is the upper isolator which needs purchased outside the "kits". But what is 12?
I am trying to create a R/R situation. I want to build the replacement assembly outside the car and just basically pull the old assembly off and install the new assembly without having to disassemble the old assembly.
7,8,10 are part of the Moog assembly. 15 is the upper isolator which needs purchased outside the "kits". But what is 12?
02-03-2010, 07:20 PM
#83
Old Fuddy Duddy
Join Date: Feb 2001
Posts: 2,712
Most aftermarket springs come with replacements. I typically reuse isolators for OEM setups. For those that are ****, or require them for purposes of building entire assemblies, the dealer is where to get them.
I never replace #15 either.
#8 is NOT part of the Moog assembly. Unless you break a stud, you don’t need to replace this. #12 also does not need replacing unless it is completely rusted through.
I never replace #15 either.
#8 is NOT part of the Moog assembly. Unless you break a stud, you don’t need to replace this. #12 also does not need replacing unless it is completely rusted through.
Part #8 and #15 require dissassembly of the old parts to obtain or a purchase of a new part? And the recommendation for getting those in new parts is OEM?
02-03-2010, 07:54 PM
#84
OK, given your advice and threads in the suspension forum, I dont want to disassemble the old stuff. Its salt encrusted, rusted parts, and I dont want to have to muck with it for another 10 years (like the OEM is currently floating along the highway).
Part #8 and #15 require dissassembly of the old parts to obtain or a purchase of a new part? And the recommendation for getting those in new parts is OEM?
Part #8 and #15 require dissassembly of the old parts to obtain or a purchase of a new part? And the recommendation for getting those in new parts is OEM?
02-04-2010, 05:20 AM
#85
OK, given your advice and threads in the suspension forum, I dont want to disassemble the old stuff. Its salt encrusted, rusted parts, and I dont want to have to muck with it for another 10 years (like the OEM is currently floating along the highway).
Part #8 and #15 require dissassembly of the old parts to obtain or a purchase of a new part? And the recommendation for getting those in new parts is OEM?
Part #8 and #15 require dissassembly of the old parts to obtain or a purchase of a new part? And the recommendation for getting those in new parts is OEM?
Colonel, where are you located?
02-04-2010, 05:33 AM
#86
Old Fuddy Duddy
Join Date: Feb 2001
Posts: 2,712
Every single thing in that picture on page 2 requires disassembly of the entire assembly to obtain. Even if you buy every part new from the dealer or wherever, you're going to have to mess with a spring compressor in order to get the new assembly together. Why not take advantage of the time you have with a spring compressor and reuse the old parts? I'll bet that with the exception of the parts we already mentioned (boots, bearings, mounts), every one of them is viable.
Colonel, where are you located?
Colonel, where are you located?
Alternate Thread Suspension link
Last edited by Colonel; 02-04-2010 at 05:39 AM.
02-05-2010, 06:10 AM
#87
Since I am basically high jacking this thread with less than OP content I have created my own thread for debate instead of cluttering this one.
Alternate Thread Suspension link
Alternate Thread Suspension link
02-05-2010, 09:59 AM
#88
Hey guys - new to the forum....I want to lower my car -- what suspension do you recommend?!? 
j/k
Good thread boys....
I'll be doin' the same this spring -- just a matter of HOW MANY of these little components I choose to replace.
I made the mistake of NOT replacing the HATS or the Dustboots, last time around. MIStake.
I'll likely be replacin' the entire top, including bearings -- uh, and MOOG for me please!?
I'll be doin' the Tok Blues also, and hopefully get rid of my rattly, wobbly, uneven suspension issues for the life of this car.
oh, and I did the sway bar links (OEM) about a year ago, didn't make a dam bit of difference in the rattling. I'll call it: misdiagnosis.
Good input here -- thanks guys!
gr
j/k
Good thread boys....
I'll be doin' the same this spring -- just a matter of HOW MANY of these little components I choose to replace.
I made the mistake of NOT replacing the HATS or the Dustboots, last time around. MIStake.
I'll likely be replacin' the entire top, including bearings -- uh, and MOOG for me please!?
I'll be doin' the Tok Blues also, and hopefully get rid of my rattly, wobbly, uneven suspension issues for the life of this car.
oh, and I did the sway bar links (OEM) about a year ago, didn't make a dam bit of difference in the rattling. I'll call it: misdiagnosis.
Good input here -- thanks guys!
gr
02-05-2010, 11:31 AM
#90
Old Fuddy Duddy
Join Date: Feb 2001
Posts: 2,712
Then you didnt search at all, nor did you read this post very carefully. Doing a search in google showed 1,990,000 results the top result being the company Moog.
02-05-2010, 12:27 PM
#91
However, here's a link (again) to a smorgasbord of front end parts from Energy Suspension and MOOG both, specific to the 5.5 gen:
http://www.energysuspensionparts.com...an+Maxima+2003
Last edited by Rochester; 02-05-2010 at 12:43 PM.
02-05-2010, 01:04 PM
#92
....now can somebody tell me what the Best OIL for my Maxima is?!....
gr
Last edited by ghostrider17; 02-05-2010 at 01:15 PM.
02-05-2010, 02:03 PM
#93
MOOG makes parts that are OEM replacements. Some consider them an upgrade, on a part-by-part basis, hence the thread title asking about that opinion. I'm thinking you skimmed over this stuff, and could find lots of your own answers if you slowed down.
However, here's a link (again) to a smorgasbord of front end parts from Energy Suspension and MOOG both, specific to the 5.5 gen:
http://www.energysuspensionparts.com...an+Maxima+2003
However, here's a link (again) to a smorgasbord of front end parts from Energy Suspension and MOOG both, specific to the 5.5 gen:
http://www.energysuspensionparts.com...an+Maxima+2003
I did skim through the thread, but I am new to Nissan's in general and I've never heard of MOOG, just wanted more background on them in general.
Thanks again for answering my question.
02-05-2010, 06:03 PM
#95
Last edited by djfrestyl; 02-05-2010 at 07:56 PM.
02-05-2010, 07:32 PM
#96
03-10-2010, 11:57 AM
#97
My question about MOOG parts being upgrades is somewhat moot for me now, regarding the front sway bar end-links. It looks like my driver's side end-link is bad. I went to my mechanic's today, as a look-see in prep for new struts, rotors and pads. And he pointed out the one end-link was bad. It seems my tie-rod ends and ball-joints are fine, however.
So... I ordered a couple of MOOG front sway bar end-links.
So... I ordered a couple of MOOG front sway bar end-links.
03-10-2010, 04:17 PM
#98
Love the Moog links. I've probably installed 10-20 pair of them.
Consider putting a hardened washer in front of that nut on the moog link, before it goes through the control arm bracket. I've seen a couple in which the nut (that isn't flanged) has pulled through the hole, enlargening it. Huge pain to remove.
Consider putting a hardened washer in front of that nut on the moog link, before it goes through the control arm bracket. I've seen a couple in which the nut (that isn't flanged) has pulled through the hole, enlargening it. Huge pain to remove.
03-10-2010, 05:58 PM
#99
Love the Moog links. I've probably installed 10-20 pair of them.
Consider putting a hardened washer in front of that nut on the moog link, before it goes through the control arm bracket. I've seen a couple in which the nut (that isn't flanged) has pulled through the hole, enlargening it. Huge pain to remove.
Consider putting a hardened washer in front of that nut on the moog link, before it goes through the control arm bracket. I've seen a couple in which the nut (that isn't flanged) has pulled through the hole, enlargening it. Huge pain to remove.
03-10-2010, 10:20 PM
#100
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: London, ON, Canada
Posts: 595
It's all just longevity... Having a MOOG tie rod or ball joint will do nothing for you except extend the duration before the next time you have to change it.
I used MOOG LCA's with built in ball joints on my Saturn in Jan. no complaints!
I used MOOG LCA's with built in ball joints on my Saturn in Jan. no complaints!
03-24-2010, 02:44 PM
#101
New MOOG front sway bar end-links are on the car now, along with Energy Suspension FSB frame bushings. One of my OEM end-links was just a tiny bit loose, and the other rock-solid. So as part of a suspension and brake job, I had the end-links replaced too.
I must say, the steering feel is MUCH more secure. There's a solid "newness" to the way the steering wheel responds when held and turned. The feedback from the road through the steering wheel is... the best word is, again, solid.
Somewhat at a loss for the way to describe this, but overall I'm very content.
I must say, the steering feel is MUCH more secure. There's a solid "newness" to the way the steering wheel responds when held and turned. The feedback from the road through the steering wheel is... the best word is, again, solid.
Somewhat at a loss for the way to describe this, but overall I'm very content.
03-24-2010, 03:02 PM
#102
New MOOG front sway bar end-links are on the car now, along with Energy Suspension FSB frame bushings. One of my OEM end-links was just a tiny bit loose, and the other rock-solid. So as part of a suspension and brake job, I had the end-links replaced too.
I must say, the steering feel is MUCH more secure. There's a solid "newness" to the way the steering wheel responds when held and turned. The feedback from the road through the steering wheel is... the best word is, again, solid.
Somewhat at a loss for the way to describe this, but overall I'm very content.
I must say, the steering feel is MUCH more secure. There's a solid "newness" to the way the steering wheel responds when held and turned. The feedback from the road through the steering wheel is... the best word is, again, solid.
Somewhat at a loss for the way to describe this, but overall I'm very content.
03-24-2010, 03:27 PM
#103
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: London, ON, Canada
Posts: 595
New MOOG front sway bar end-links are on the car now, along with Energy Suspension FSB frame bushings. One of my OEM end-links was just a tiny bit loose, and the other rock-solid. So as part of a suspension and brake job, I had the end-links replaced too.
I must say, the steering feel is MUCH more secure. There's a solid "newness" to the way the steering wheel responds when held and turned. The feedback from the road through the steering wheel is... the best word is, again, solid.
Somewhat at a loss for the way to describe this, but overall I'm very content.
I must say, the steering feel is MUCH more secure. There's a solid "newness" to the way the steering wheel responds when held and turned. The feedback from the road through the steering wheel is... the best word is, again, solid.
Somewhat at a loss for the way to describe this, but overall I'm very content.
03-24-2010, 03:32 PM
#104
New MOOG front sway bar end-links are on the car now, along with Energy Suspension FSB frame bushings. One of my OEM end-links was just a tiny bit loose, and the other rock-solid. So as part of a suspension and brake job, I had the end-links replaced too.
I must say, the steering feel is MUCH more secure. There's a solid "newness" to the way the steering wheel responds when held and turned. The feedback from the road through the steering wheel is... the best word is, again, solid.
Somewhat at a loss for the way to describe this, but overall I'm very content.
I must say, the steering feel is MUCH more secure. There's a solid "newness" to the way the steering wheel responds when held and turned. The feedback from the road through the steering wheel is... the best word is, again, solid.
Somewhat at a loss for the way to describe this, but overall I'm very content.
This the problem that I am currently experiencing, steering feels very loose and sloppy. A bit unnerving at higher speeds with all that extra steering and swaying ... So I am hopeful to obtain the same results as Rochester when I replace my lower ball and sway end links ... replacing any extra bushings with the ES bushings on the sub frame also sounds like a very good idea.
03-24-2010, 04:17 PM
#105
I think I could agree with that. Whatever the reason or collective reasons, I'm happy with the results.
03-24-2010, 05:02 PM
#106
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: London, ON, Canada
Posts: 595
I'll probably end up doing all of that work on my car eventually too.
New tires, and new brakes all around, everything minus front calipers, does not come for free. Will do the end links,bushings, struts and springs in the next few months when this financial blow has passed.
04-24-2010, 05:10 AM
#107
Dragging up an older thread, but wanted to pull all my parts together before swapping my springs. Using the search feature brought me to this thread.
1). Are strut mounts and top hats the same thing? I see both referenced.
2). Dust boots, only replaced if torn or should I replace them anyway.
3). Spring isolators not necessary? Again, should I replace them while apart?
4). Post #69 by 2Slow has a nice diagram for the front set-up, anything like that for the rear? My rear makes a hellava clunking noise, want to fix that while I'm at it. Keeping the OEM set-up, not interesting in dropping the rear.
Any other advise from the suspension GURU's is welcomed.
1). Are strut mounts and top hats the same thing? I see both referenced.
2). Dust boots, only replaced if torn or should I replace them anyway.
3). Spring isolators not necessary? Again, should I replace them while apart?
4). Post #69 by 2Slow has a nice diagram for the front set-up, anything like that for the rear? My rear makes a hellava clunking noise, want to fix that while I'm at it. Keeping the OEM set-up, not interesting in dropping the rear.
Any other advise from the suspension GURU's is welcomed.
04-24-2010, 05:48 AM
#109
All of those parts are included in the MOOG strut mount kit except for the dust boots?
On a side note Ghost, I see that your sig says you are running a 235/50R17 tire, how much taller are these compared to the 225's, I'm guessing it's minimal? I want to fill the gap a little more, but don't really want the sidewall of a 55 series.
On a side note Ghost, I see that your sig says you are running a 235/50R17 tire, how much taller are these compared to the 225's, I'm guessing it's minimal? I want to fill the gap a little more, but don't really want the sidewall of a 55 series.
04-24-2010, 06:16 AM
#110
All of those parts are included in the MOOG strut mount kit except for the dust boots?
On a side note Ghost, I see that your sig says you are running a 235/50R17 tire, how much taller are these compared to the 225's, I'm guessing it's minimal? I want to fill the gap a little more, but don't really want the sidewall of a 55 series.
On a side note Ghost, I see that your sig says you are running a 235/50R17 tire, how much taller are these compared to the 225's, I'm guessing it's minimal? I want to fill the gap a little more, but don't really want the sidewall of a 55 series.
Dust boots... if you have the opportunity to get a close up assessment of your boots, look at them for damage, cracks, etc. In my case, although they were over 7 years old, they were in good shape. So we just cleaned them up and reconditioned them with a generous dousing of silicon spray. Saved me $50. Since your car is a 2000, it's probably a good precaution to replace them... but maybe not; go look.
04-24-2010, 10:18 AM
#111
All of those parts are included in the MOOG strut mount kit except for the dust boots?
On a side note Ghost, I see that your sig says you are running a 235/50R17 tire, how much taller are these compared to the 225's, I'm guessing it's minimal? I want to fill the gap a little more, but don't really want the sidewall of a 55 series.
On a side note Ghost, I see that your sig says you are running a 235/50R17 tire, how much taller are these compared to the 225's, I'm guessing it's minimal? I want to fill the gap a little more, but don't really want the sidewall of a 55 series.
01-02-2011, 09:15 AM
#112
Does anyone know if these MOOG end-links have a seal around the grease fitting? Or is the grease contained simply by the shape of the thick rubber cowl? I just don't remember when I was looking at the parts before installation 9 months ago.
The reason I'm asking, a few days ago my front passenger-side suspension started screaming at me like a braying donkey just a few miles from home. I parked it in the garage, and it's just been sitting there, totally un-touched, for the last two days. Today I went out to inspect the situation... pulled the wheel, everything visually checks out. Then I tried rocking the car again, and nothing. No screech. I drove it around a little, and then a lot, and the problem is simply gone; (audibly, at least.)
So on the chance that the end-links (or my new ball-joints) are loosing grease, I bought a grease gun this afternoon, and the Advance Auto guy warned me not to over-pump the grease for fear of "blowing the seal". Is there actually a seal on these end-links? (BTW, my new ball-joints are also MOOG parts, installed 3 months ago. My tie-rod ends are originals.)
Here's a picture again of the end-links:
The reason I'm asking, a few days ago my front passenger-side suspension started screaming at me like a braying donkey just a few miles from home. I parked it in the garage, and it's just been sitting there, totally un-touched, for the last two days. Today I went out to inspect the situation... pulled the wheel, everything visually checks out. Then I tried rocking the car again, and nothing. No screech. I drove it around a little, and then a lot, and the problem is simply gone; (audibly, at least.)
So on the chance that the end-links (or my new ball-joints) are loosing grease, I bought a grease gun this afternoon, and the Advance Auto guy warned me not to over-pump the grease for fear of "blowing the seal". Is there actually a seal on these end-links? (BTW, my new ball-joints are also MOOG parts, installed 3 months ago. My tie-rod ends are originals.)
Here's a picture again of the end-links:
01-02-2011, 12:45 PM
#114
It's just a big rubber flap. And there didn't seem to be much grease inside.So I went to use my shiny new grease gun, only to discover I couldn't clip the coupler in tight. Are there different sized couplers? IDK. Feel like an idiot. Sometimes it's humbling when your noob status at seemingly simple things is so red-faced obvious.
Last edited by Rochester; 01-02-2011 at 12:49 PM.
01-02-2011, 05:17 PM
#116
So they're all 1/8" fittings? What the heck...? Now I feel truly stupid, and don't know why I can't get the coupler properly fitted on the valve.
01-02-2011, 06:23 PM
#118
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Central AR
Posts: 3,041
Thanks for sharing the all the information on MOOG. It is refreshing to see good reviews on a replacement part that is so easily available outside of OEM.
A couple of months ago I bought some MOOG power rack boots that look good to me..
A couple of months ago I bought some MOOG power rack boots that look good to me..
01-02-2011, 06:33 PM
#119
BTW, there are different size fittings, but I believe those that come with Moog parts are the "popular" size that come with most grease guns. Get a straight line and push harder.
01-05-2011, 06:56 PM
#120
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Jacksonville,FL
Posts: 4
I have a 2000 Maxima and took it into a shop today because it has vibration at different speeds, sometimes at 35-40mph and always between 65 to 80. They quoted me 650.00 for parts, labor and alignment for doing the both outer tierods and the left inner tierods. How bad is this quote? And if I plan to get my own parts, am I only looking for the inner and outer tierods assembly? Also are there anyhting else that I need to check like ball joints or wheel bearing?