Time for some new spark plugs. Suggestions?
10-03-2009, 10:23 PM
#1
Time for some new spark plugs. Suggestions?
So I'm thinking once I get a hold of my spacers from Aaron (when I finally manage to save up) that I'm going to do spark plugs while I have the manifold pulled off.
Anyway, Autozone has a set of Zex performance plugs for the Max for $48. Is it worth it, or are there better options for that price? The other question is, will an NA car be okay with plugs "designed" for FI cars?
They're listed as being for cars with "nitrous/blowers/turbos..." (see here), but I assume that since they're just spark plugs, they'll be okay. Any thoughts?
Anyway, Autozone has a set of Zex performance plugs for the Max for $48. Is it worth it, or are there better options for that price? The other question is, will an NA car be okay with plugs "designed" for FI cars?
They're listed as being for cars with "nitrous/blowers/turbos..." (see here), but I assume that since they're just spark plugs, they'll be okay. Any thoughts?
10-04-2009, 10:11 AM
#6
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Tucson, AZ
Posts: 388
Don't get those crap plugs at autozone. Just shell out some money for NGK iridiums. Depending on how good you are, you can find them anywhere on the internet from $3-$12 each.
i use the platniums because im cheap like that, but even those still go 100k miles.
i use the platniums because im cheap like that, but even those still go 100k miles.
10-04-2009, 10:44 AM
#8
the zex plugs are probably colder for FI applications. NGK iridiums are pretty cheap or if you are on a real budget NGK coppers are really cheap but are only good for 30k miles vs 60k on the iridiums
10-04-2009, 11:08 AM
#9
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Tucson, AZ
Posts: 388
here the iridiums are cheaper than the platniums. 60k? They'll go through the whole 105k tuneup cycle. I remember there was a guy on this forum who posted earlier who had stock OEM plugs to 180k miles.
10-04-2009, 11:27 AM
#10
http://www.amazon.com/NGK-LFR5AIX-11.../dp/B000GZGUP8
here the iridiums are cheaper than the platniums. 60k? They'll go through the whole 105k tuneup cycle. I remember there was a guy on this forum who posted earlier who had stock OEM plugs to 180k miles.
here the iridiums are cheaper than the platniums. 60k? They'll go through the whole 105k tuneup cycle. I remember there was a guy on this forum who posted earlier who had stock OEM plugs to 180k miles.
While i have it in front of me the NGK plug code is PFR5G-11, i seem to remember they were on ebay for pretty cheep.
10-04-2009, 12:00 PM
#12
Senior Member
iTrader: (11)
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Cherry Hill, NJ / Hoboken, NJ
Posts: 1,325
NGK copper v-power work great for me. They're cheaper, they're supposed to spark better, and having to change them in 30k miles doesn't really bother me, since it only takes an hour or less
10-04-2009, 02:40 PM
#14
autozone changes ~$9 each and dealership charges ~$12 each
10-04-2009, 02:57 PM
#17
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Tucson, AZ
Posts: 388
you're right i just checked the FSM. For some reason i had 60k for the iridiums and 30k for the coppers in my head. maybe that is the interval for the 4th gens.
While i have it in front of me the NGK plug code is PFR5G-11, i seem to remember they were on ebay for pretty cheep.
While i have it in front of me the NGK plug code is PFR5G-11, i seem to remember they were on ebay for pretty cheep.
"platnium laser" NGK plugs. They cost more than the iridums for some reason. $10ish on amazon.
$9.00 per plug on mynismo.com
http://www.mynismo.com/products/?id=2413
they don't list it under I35 or 5.5 Maxima but just look for the part number PLFR5A-1 under any other nissan VQ35 driving car.
10-04-2009, 03:01 PM
#18
if a girl can do it.....
10-04-2009, 04:06 PM
#19
10-04-2009, 06:58 PM
#24
my owners manual lists the OEM plug as PLFR5A-1
"platnium laser" NGK plugs. They cost more than the iridums for some reason. $10ish on amazon.
$9.00 per plug on mynismo.com
http://www.mynismo.com/products/?id=2413
they don't list it under I35 or 5.5 Maxima but just look for the part number PLFR5A-1 under any other nissan VQ35 driving car.
"platnium laser" NGK plugs. They cost more than the iridums for some reason. $10ish on amazon.
$9.00 per plug on mynismo.com
http://www.mynismo.com/products/?id=2413
they don't list it under I35 or 5.5 Maxima but just look for the part number PLFR5A-1 under any other nissan VQ35 driving car.
10-04-2009, 07:05 PM
#25
Senior Member
iTrader: (11)
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Cherry Hill, NJ / Hoboken, NJ
Posts: 1,325
the last number is the gap. -11 means a 1.1mm gap, which is correct for the VQ30. The "5" refers to how hot/cold it is - 5 is correct for the VQ30.
The letters refer to whether it's platinum, iridium, or copper. IIRC, the ones I used were like BK5R-11 or something like that
The letters refer to whether it's platinum, iridium, or copper. IIRC, the ones I used were like BK5R-11 or something like that
I will be doing mine soon!
10-25-2009, 07:39 PM
#28
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Philadelphia, PA
Posts: 11
Stay away from NEX! BUY NGK!
Just be prepared for anything, since changing the plugs is a mf!
I just changed my plugs yesterday, put it all back together only to have it run like shizz and throw a P0300 code. Took it apart today and changed the coil packs, same problem. Almost like it wants to stall. Anyone else have this problem?
Just be prepared for anything, since changing the plugs is a mf!
I just changed my plugs yesterday, put it all back together only to have it run like shizz and throw a P0300 code. Took it apart today and changed the coil packs, same problem. Almost like it wants to stall. Anyone else have this problem?
10-25-2009, 07:54 PM
#29
Supporting Maxima.org Member
iTrader: (9)
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Severn, Maryland (USA)
Posts: 582
Stay away from NEX! BUY NGK!
Just be prepared for anything, since changing the plugs is a mf!
I just changed my plugs yesterday, put it all back together only to have it run like shizz and throw a P0300 code. Took it apart today and changed the coil packs, same problem. Almost like it wants to stall. Anyone else have this problem?
Just be prepared for anything, since changing the plugs is a mf!
I just changed my plugs yesterday, put it all back together only to have it run like shizz and throw a P0300 code. Took it apart today and changed the coil packs, same problem. Almost like it wants to stall. Anyone else have this problem?
Is your MAF plug connected?
Is your TPS Sensor connected?
Is your IACV connected?
10-26-2009, 08:05 AM
#31
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Philadelphia, PA
Posts: 11
Yep, double checked all of these. I was told it may be a bad EGI harness. The service guy at my local Nissan dealer told me that if you're not extra careful with the harness, wires can crack. I dropped the f'er off for a diagnostics to pinpoint, i'm done trying to fix aimlessly, throwing $ away.
Figures, I got a deal on the platinum plugs, the woman rang them up wrong, paid $25 for a set of 6 when they shouldve been $72. I shouldve known it was the start of a money pit!
10-26-2009, 01:05 PM
#32
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Philadelphia, PA
Posts: 11
Update: $300 worth of diagnostics, a few unnecessary ignition coils later only to find out I bent a pin on the EGI harness plug. I ripped apart my motor 3 f'n times, and to hear this I was ready to bang my head against my tool bench!
Lesson learned: if you have a P0300 code, random misfire, it may be a bent pin in a connector! MF'ER! Valuable lesson learned, $500 later.
Lesson learned: if you have a P0300 code, random misfire, it may be a bent pin in a connector! MF'ER! Valuable lesson learned, $500 later.
10-27-2009, 07:02 AM
#33
'00 GLE
Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 97
NGK
This is what I've learned about NGK plugs.
Materials:
Copper - Best conductor but only lasts about 30k miles
Platinum - Durable, but not as good a conductor as Copper,
Iridium - Durable and almost as good a conductor as Copper
NGK Types:
V-Power: Copper (~30k miles)
G-Power: Platinum on center electrode only (~60k miles)
Iridium IX: Iridium on center electrode only (? miles)
Laser Platinum: Platinum on center and ground (side) electrodes (OEM) (~100k miles)
Laser Iridium: Iridium on center electrode, Platinum on ground (side) electrode (~100k miles)
From NGK's web site (Prices from Advance Auto web site):
2000 NISSAN MAXIMA 3.0 V6 VQ30DE FI DOHC
Standard
BKR5ES-11
2382
$1.99
V-Power
BKR5E-11
6953
$1.99
G-Power
BKR5EGP
7090
$2.79
Laser Platinum
PFR5G-11 * #
2647
$9.99
OE Laser Iridium
IFR5E11 ^
7994
$9.99
Iridium IX
BKR5EIX-11
5464
$6.99
* “Laser Series” Platinum center electrode, and Platinum pad ground electrode
# Original Equipment Manufacturer, and/or Original Equipment Service Part
^ “Laser Series” Iridium center electrode, and Platinum pad ground electrode
I hope this helps.
Materials:
Copper - Best conductor but only lasts about 30k miles
Platinum - Durable, but not as good a conductor as Copper,
Iridium - Durable and almost as good a conductor as Copper
NGK Types:
V-Power: Copper (~30k miles)
G-Power: Platinum on center electrode only (~60k miles)
Iridium IX: Iridium on center electrode only (? miles)
Laser Platinum: Platinum on center and ground (side) electrodes (OEM) (~100k miles)
Laser Iridium: Iridium on center electrode, Platinum on ground (side) electrode (~100k miles)
From NGK's web site (Prices from Advance Auto web site):
2000 NISSAN MAXIMA 3.0 V6 VQ30DE FI DOHC
Standard
BKR5ES-11
2382
$1.99
V-Power
BKR5E-11
6953
$1.99
G-Power
BKR5EGP
7090
$2.79
Laser Platinum
PFR5G-11 * #
2647
$9.99
OE Laser Iridium
IFR5E11 ^
7994
$9.99
Iridium IX
BKR5EIX-11
5464
$6.99
* “Laser Series” Platinum center electrode, and Platinum pad ground electrode
# Original Equipment Manufacturer, and/or Original Equipment Service Part
^ “Laser Series” Iridium center electrode, and Platinum pad ground electrode
I hope this helps.
Last edited by BuRoJo; 10-27-2009 at 07:37 AM. Reason: added info from NKG web site
11-01-2009, 07:07 PM
#34
Junior Member
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: 513 AREA
Posts: 19
question
Update: $300 worth of diagnostics, a few unnecessary ignition coils later only to find out I bent a pin on the EGI harness plug. I ripped apart my motor 3 f'n times, and to hear this I was ready to bang my head against my tool bench!
Lesson learned: if you have a P0300 code, random misfire, it may be a bent pin in a connector! MF'ER! Valuable lesson learned, $500 later.
Lesson learned: if you have a P0300 code, random misfire, it may be a bent pin in a connector! MF'ER! Valuable lesson learned, $500 later.
What is a EGI? So that i can check the harness. I got that code unfortunately
11-02-2009, 05:51 AM
#36
yo.. you dont want those plugs in your car being NA man...
they are usually one or 2 step colder than plugs for NA. your car wont run smoothly at all...
when i went turbo on my s2000 *twice* tehre was a good difference between the regular plugs and the one step colder ones...
took off the turbo and went back to NA *first time* and left the cold plugs in there... it didnt run smoothly at all... put back brand new stock ones and ran awesome... aaaaaand ofcourse went back turbo again and same effect..
they are usually one or 2 step colder than plugs for NA. your car wont run smoothly at all...
when i went turbo on my s2000 *twice* tehre was a good difference between the regular plugs and the one step colder ones...
took off the turbo and went back to NA *first time* and left the cold plugs in there... it didnt run smoothly at all... put back brand new stock ones and ran awesome... aaaaaand ofcourse went back turbo again and same effect..
11-02-2009, 08:20 AM
#39
From the FSM (Maintenance section regarding plugs),
Standard type: PLFR5A-11
Hot type: PLFR4A-11
Cold type: PLFR6A-11
Use standard type spark plug for normal condition.
The hot type spark plug is suitable when fouling may occur with the
standard type spark plug such as:
- frequent engine starts
- low ambient temperatures
The cold type spark plug is suitable when spark knock may occur
with the standard type spark plug such as:
- extended highway driving
- frequent high engine revolution
Hot type: PLFR4A-11
Cold type: PLFR6A-11
Use standard type spark plug for normal condition.
The hot type spark plug is suitable when fouling may occur with the
standard type spark plug such as:
- frequent engine starts
- low ambient temperatures
The cold type spark plug is suitable when spark knock may occur
with the standard type spark plug such as:
- extended highway driving
- frequent high engine revolution
11-02-2009, 09:13 AM
#40
'00 GLE
Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 97
From the FSM (Maintenance section regarding plugs),
Quote:
Standard type: PLFR5A-11
Hot type: PLFR4A-11
Cold type: PLFR6A-11
Use standard type spark plug for normal condition.
The hot type spark plug is suitable when fouling may occur with the
standard type spark plug such as:
- frequent engine starts
- low ambient temperatures
The cold type spark plug is suitable when spark knock may occur
with the standard type spark plug such as:
- extended highway driving
- frequent high engine revolution
Quote:
Standard type: PLFR5A-11
Hot type: PLFR4A-11
Cold type: PLFR6A-11
Use standard type spark plug for normal condition.
The hot type spark plug is suitable when fouling may occur with the
standard type spark plug such as:
- frequent engine starts
- low ambient temperatures
The cold type spark plug is suitable when spark knock may occur
with the standard type spark plug such as:
- extended highway driving
- frequent high engine revolution