Time for some new spark plugs. Suggestions?

SLCPunk267 · 10-03-2009, 11:23 PM

So I'm thinking once I get a hold of my spacers from Aaron (when I finally manage to save up) that I'm going to do spark plugs while I have the manifold pulled off.

Anyway, Autozone has a set of Zex performance plugs for the Max for $48. Is it worth it, or are there better options for that price? The other question is, will an NA car be okay with plugs "designed" for FI cars?

They're listed as being for cars with "nitrous/blowers/turbos..." (see here), but I assume that since they're just spark plugs, they'll be okay. Any thoughts?

J-Rod · 10-04-2009, 07:25 AM

Perfect set, if you want to throw your money away. Just buy the NGK ones that are like $3.00 and those will work fine.

*SoonerFan* · 10-04-2009, 07:43 AM

NGK Iridium

BLACKKILA.GTR · 10-04-2009, 08:51 AM

ngk iridium all the way!!

bigpopaj369 · 10-04-2009, 09:45 AM

im doing these next week as well these plugs work just fine no need IMO to get anything else

Col Ronson · 10-04-2009, 11:11 AM

Don't get those crap plugs at autozone. Just shell out some money for NGK iridiums. Depending on how good you are, you can find them anywhere on the internet from $3-$12 each.

i use the platniums because im cheap like that, but even those still go 100k miles.

PadawanKnight · 10-04-2009, 11:15 AM

I got my NGK Iridium plugs from Advance. AutoZone may carry them as well.

Feldman · 10-04-2009, 11:44 AM

the zex plugs are probably colder for FI applications. NGK iridiums are pretty cheap or if you are on a real budget NGK coppers are really cheap but are only good for 30k miles vs 60k on the iridiums

Col Ronson · 10-04-2009, 12:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Feldman

the zex plugs are probably colder for FI applications. NGK iridiums are pretty cheap or if you are on a real budget NGK coppers are really cheap but are only good for 30k miles vs 60k on the iridiums

http://www.amazon.com/NGK-LFR5AIX-11.../dp/B000GZGUP8

here the iridiums are cheaper than the platniums. 60k? They'll go through the whole 105k tuneup cycle. I remember there was a guy on this forum who posted earlier who had stock OEM plugs to 180k miles.

Feldman · 10-04-2009, 12:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Col Ronson

http://www.amazon.com/NGK-LFR5AIX-11.../dp/B000GZGUP8

here the iridiums are cheaper than the platniums. 60k? They'll go through the whole 105k tuneup cycle. I remember there was a guy on this forum who posted earlier who had stock OEM plugs to 180k miles.

you're right i just checked the FSM. For some reason i had 60k for the iridiums and 30k for the coppers in my head. maybe that is the interval for the 4th gens.

While i have it in front of me the NGK plug code is PFR5G-11, i seem to remember they were on ebay for pretty cheep.

*Lontar1* · 10-04-2009, 12:30 PM

NGK I

nalc · 10-04-2009, 01:00 PM

NGK copper v-power work great for me. They're cheaper, they're supposed to spark better, and having to change them in 30k miles doesn't really bother me, since it only takes an hour or less

jasonmax · 10-04-2009, 02:39 PM

just get stock platimun plugs.

*SoonerFan* · 10-04-2009, 03:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Col Ronson

Don't get those crap plugs at autozone. Just shell out some money for NGK iridiums. Depending on how good you are, you can find them anywhere on the internet from $3-$12 each.

i use the platniums because im cheap like that, but even those still go 100k miles.

autozone changes ~$9 each and dealership charges ~$12 each

*SoonerFan* · 10-04-2009, 03:42 PM

so easy, a 13 year old can do it

Col Ronson · 10-04-2009, 03:55 PM

The spark plug job isn't easy at all. at least not for me mostly because i dont have torque adjustable wrenches, and because removing the upper intake manifold is a *****.

Col Ronson · 10-04-2009, 03:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Feldman

you're right i just checked the FSM. For some reason i had 60k for the iridiums and 30k for the coppers in my head. maybe that is the interval for the 4th gens.

While i have it in front of me the NGK plug code is PFR5G-11, i seem to remember they were on ebay for pretty cheep.

my owners manual lists the OEM plug as PLFR5A-1

"platnium laser" NGK plugs. They cost more than the iridums for some reason. $10ish on amazon.

$9.00 per plug on mynismo.com

http://www.mynismo.com/products/?id=2413

they don't list it under I35 or 5.5 Maxima but just look for the part number PLFR5A-1 under any other nissan VQ35 driving car.

*SoonerFan* · 10-04-2009, 04:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Col Ronson

The spark plug job isn't easy at all. at least not for me mostly because i dont have torque adjustable wrenches, and because removing the upper intake manifold is a *****.

just take your time...gets easier...ive done 4 and the last time took me 2 hours

if a girl can do it.....

SLCPunk267 · 10-04-2009, 05:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SoonerFan

so easy, a 13 year old can do it

I want those rims on the left.

Thanks everyone for the heads up so I didn't waste my money. If everyone's satisfied with the NGK, that's probably what I'll go with. Unless, of course, I can manage to buy that STI I've been looking at.

Grand_hustle17 · 10-04-2009, 06:06 PM

i bought some OEM NGK type plugs for 60$ and it doesnt seem like they work, got a P0300 code, some NGK's in a blueish box... ill be trying These NGK indiums tomorrow hopefully that fixes the problem

*vntperformance* · 10-04-2009, 06:22 PM

Guess i'll pick up some NgK IrIdiums from Advance for my ride.

zidave · 10-04-2009, 07:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SoonerFan

NGK Iridium

^^ This ^^

2kmax865 · 10-04-2009, 07:32 PM

Stay away from bosch plugs. The price matches the quaility.

Feldman · 10-04-2009, 07:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Col Ronson

my owners manual lists the OEM plug as PLFR5A-1

"platnium laser" NGK plugs. They cost more than the iridums for some reason. $10ish on amazon.

$9.00 per plug on mynismo.com

http://www.mynismo.com/products/?id=2413

they don't list it under I35 or 5.5 Maxima but just look for the part number PLFR5A-1 under any other nissan VQ35 driving car.

I copied and PFR5G-11 straight from the FSM, I'm too lazy right now to figure out what the difference is but maybe someone can chime in.

nalc · 10-04-2009, 08:05 PM

the last number is the gap. -11 means a 1.1mm gap, which is correct for the VQ30. The "5" refers to how hot/cold it is - 5 is correct for the VQ30.

The letters refer to whether it's platinum, iridium, or copper. IIRC, the ones I used were like BK5R-11 or something like that

*DrunkieTheBear* · 10-04-2009, 08:55 PM

ones that work

Changing plugs on an 02-03 is nothing compared to the Grand Prix....I have to remove the motor mounts and pull the engine forward and then still do it all by feel

*Pearltt* · 10-04-2009, 09:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SoonerFan

NGK Iridium

I will be doing mine soon!

RYENZERO · 10-25-2009, 08:39 PM

Stay away from NEX! BUY NGK!

Just be prepared for anything, since changing the plugs is a mf!

I just changed my plugs yesterday, put it all back together only to have it run like shizz and throw a P0300 code. Took it apart today and changed the coil packs, same problem. Almost like it wants to stall. Anyone else have this problem?

*vntperformance* · 10-25-2009, 08:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RYENZERO

Stay away from NEX! BUY NGK!

Just be prepared for anything, since changing the plugs is a mf!

I just changed my plugs yesterday, put it all back together only to have it run like shizz and throw a P0300 code. Took it apart today and changed the coil packs, same problem. Almost like it wants to stall. Anyone else have this problem?

Is your PCV Valve connected?
Is your MAF plug connected?
Is your TPS Sensor connected?
Is your IACV connected?

cmd26 · 10-25-2009, 09:20 PM

Got some ngk iridium for sale $40 shipped

RYENZERO · 10-26-2009, 09:05 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vntperformance

Is your PCV Valve connected?
Is your MAF plug connected?
Is your TPS Sensor connected?
Is your IACV connected?

Yep, double checked all of these. I was told it may be a bad EGI harness. The service guy at my local Nissan dealer told me that if you're not extra careful with the harness, wires can crack. I dropped the f'er off for a diagnostics to pinpoint, i'm done trying to fix aimlessly, throwing $ away.

Figures, I got a deal on the platinum plugs, the woman rang them up wrong, paid $25 for a set of 6 when they shouldve been $72. I shouldve known it was the start of a money pit!

RYENZERO · 10-26-2009, 02:05 PM

Update: $300 worth of diagnostics, a few unnecessary ignition coils later only to find out I bent a pin on the EGI harness plug. I ripped apart my motor 3 f'n times, and to hear this I was ready to bang my head against my tool bench!

Lesson learned: if you have a P0300 code, random misfire, it may be a bent pin in a connector! MF'ER! Valuable lesson learned, $500 later.

*BuRoJo* · 10-27-2009, 08:02 AM

This is what I've learned about NGK plugs.

Materials:
Copper - Best conductor but only lasts about 30k miles
Platinum - Durable, but not as good a conductor as Copper,
Iridium - Durable and almost as good a conductor as Copper

NGK Types:
V-Power: Copper (~30k miles)
G-Power: Platinum on center electrode only (~60k miles)
Iridium IX: Iridium on center electrode only (? miles)
Laser Platinum: Platinum on center and ground (side) electrodes (OEM) (~100k miles)
Laser Iridium: Iridium on center electrode, Platinum on ground (side) electrode (~100k miles)

From NGK's web site (Prices from Advance Auto web site):
2000 NISSAN MAXIMA 3.0 V6 VQ30DE FI DOHC

Standard
BKR5ES-11
2382
$1.99

V-Power
BKR5E-11
6953
$1.99

G-Power
BKR5EGP
7090
$2.79

Laser Platinum
PFR5G-11 * #
2647
$9.99

OE Laser Iridium
IFR5E11 ^
7994
$9.99

Iridium IX
BKR5EIX-11
5464
$6.99

* “Laser Series” Platinum center electrode, and Platinum pad ground electrode
# Original Equipment Manufacturer, and/or Original Equipment Service Part
^ “Laser Series” Iridium center electrode, and Platinum pad ground electrode

I hope this helps.

513Chillz · 11-01-2009, 08:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RYENZERO

Update: $300 worth of diagnostics, a few unnecessary ignition coils later only to find out I bent a pin on the EGI harness plug. I ripped apart my motor 3 f'n times, and to hear this I was ready to bang my head against my tool bench!

Lesson learned: if you have a P0300 code, random misfire, it may be a bent pin in a connector! MF'ER! Valuable lesson learned, $500 later.

What is a EGI? So that i can check the harness. I got that code unfortunately

FRZ251 · 11-01-2009, 08:32 PM

Are the Iridium IX better then the OEM laser iridiums? The description sounds like they are more performance oriented?

*MidN1te* · 11-02-2009, 06:51 AM

yo.. you dont want those plugs in your car being NA man...

they are usually one or 2 step colder than plugs for NA. your car wont run smoothly at all...

when i went turbo on my s2000 *twice* tehre was a good difference between the regular plugs and the one step colder ones...

took off the turbo and went back to NA *first time* and left the cold plugs in there... it didnt run smoothly at all... put back brand new stock ones and ran awesome... aaaaaand ofcourse went back turbo again and same effect..

*BuRoJo* · 11-02-2009, 07:16 AM

I think NGK has different heat ranges for each type of plug. The last digit indicates heat range. "11" being "normal"; lower numbers are "cooler" and higher ones are "hotter".

nalc · 11-02-2009, 09:11 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BuRoJo

I think NGK has different heat ranges for each type of plug. The last digit indicates heat range. "11" being "normal"; lower numbers are "cooler" and higher ones are "hotter".

Incorrect. The -11 at the end means a 1.1mm gap.

It might be the "5" that indicates heat range, but I don't know for sure. The 11 is definitely referring to the gap, though.

ridinwitha35 · 11-02-2009, 09:20 AM

From the FSM (Maintenance section regarding plugs),

Quote:

Standard type: PLFR5A-11
Hot type: PLFR4A-11
Cold type: PLFR6A-11

Use standard type spark plug for normal condition.

The hot type spark plug is suitable when fouling may occur with the
standard type spark plug such as:
- frequent engine starts
- low ambient temperatures

The cold type spark plug is suitable when spark knock may occur
with the standard type spark plug such as:
- extended highway driving
- frequent high engine revolution

*BuRoJo* · 11-02-2009, 10:13 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by nalc

Incorrect. The -11 at the end means a 1.1mm gap.

It might be the "5" that indicates heat range, but I don't know for sure. The 11 is definitely referring to the gap, though.

You're right. (Should have checked my FSM before replying...)

Quote:

Originally Posted by ridinwitha35

From the FSM (Maintenance section regarding plugs),
Quote:
Standard type: PLFR5A-11
Hot type: PLFR4A-11
Cold type: PLFR6A-11

Use standard type spark plug for normal condition.

The hot type spark plug is suitable when fouling may occur with the
standard type spark plug such as:
- frequent engine starts
- low ambient temperatures

The cold type spark plug is suitable when spark knock may occur
with the standard type spark plug such as:
- extended highway driving
- frequent high engine revolution

+1