Window motor removal pictures
09-28-2009, 09:32 PM
#1
Window motor removal pictures
Last week with the help of another org member (Stepien), I replaced the window motor in my Maxima. The metal track of the regulator started to rust a bit, making the surface not very smooth. This put more strain on the motor and with time it got weaker, and when I replaced it, it was on its last breaths.
For those of you curious what things look like under the door finsh, I thought I would post some pictures. Sorry that I didn't get to take any pictures of the actual regulator assembly, as it was getting dark, and we were rushing so at one point I forgot about taking pictures. However, for any of you trying to imagine it, it looks something like this:
For removing the door trim and finish, I used the instructions on pages BT-37 and BT-38 of the FSM.
For the rest, I used the instructions provided by dmplus in the post:
http://forums.maxima.org/4346438-post9.html
dmplus' instructions are fairly accurate and I recommend them.
For those of you curious what things look like under the door finsh, I thought I would post some pictures. Sorry that I didn't get to take any pictures of the actual regulator assembly, as it was getting dark, and we were rushing so at one point I forgot about taking pictures. However, for any of you trying to imagine it, it looks something like this:
For removing the door trim and finish, I used the instructions on pages BT-37 and BT-38 of the FSM.
For the rest, I used the instructions provided by dmplus in the post:
http://forums.maxima.org/4346438-post9.html
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=426162
That thread has info on resetting the window if it comes back down after auto up.
I just replaced the drivers side motor. Here is a rough write up from memory (dont expect it to be perfect)
1. remove bolt from behind plastic round cap on door panel (top right side of panel on drivers door, opposite for passenger)
2. remove bolt from inside the handle part (underneath a plastic round thingy)
3. Remove the trim around the door handle and lock(the one you use to actually open the door). Takes some prying, be patient and dont break it.
4. Pry the panel off (I used a flat screwdriver and started at the bottom, takes some force but not too much!) Panel pop away from the door then will lift up and away.
5. Unhook electrical connectors. some are easy some are hard, one of them we found we had to turn the panel upside down to get to once we had removed all the other ones.
6. remove metal door handle brace.
7. Peel away plastic cover. It's stuck on with this tar like stuff, dont get it on your seats!! I didnt actually remove the whole cover, just peeled it most of the way back.
8. Unhook motor electrical stuff
9. Window really needs to be about 3 inches or so up from bottom (so most of the way down) and the bolts that hold it to the pully system will be available through holes in the metal. I dont know what it takes to get it to that point if it's not already there.
10. unbolt window from pully system
11. pull window up and out of door (have to twist it a little but it will come all the way out.
12. unbolt the screws holding the motor and pully assembly, I think there's three or 4 bolts.
13. the whole motor and assembly will now come out of the door through an opening towards the left side of the door (left side on drivers door, right side on passenger door.
And that's that, just follow in reverse to finish. Since i'm going off of memory I'm sure i forgot something, but this should help most users get through it.
That thread has info on resetting the window if it comes back down after auto up.
I just replaced the drivers side motor. Here is a rough write up from memory (dont expect it to be perfect)
1. remove bolt from behind plastic round cap on door panel (top right side of panel on drivers door, opposite for passenger)
2. remove bolt from inside the handle part (underneath a plastic round thingy)
3. Remove the trim around the door handle and lock(the one you use to actually open the door). Takes some prying, be patient and dont break it.
4. Pry the panel off (I used a flat screwdriver and started at the bottom, takes some force but not too much!) Panel pop away from the door then will lift up and away.
5. Unhook electrical connectors. some are easy some are hard, one of them we found we had to turn the panel upside down to get to once we had removed all the other ones.
6. remove metal door handle brace.
7. Peel away plastic cover. It's stuck on with this tar like stuff, dont get it on your seats!! I didnt actually remove the whole cover, just peeled it most of the way back.
8. Unhook motor electrical stuff
9. Window really needs to be about 3 inches or so up from bottom (so most of the way down) and the bolts that hold it to the pully system will be available through holes in the metal. I dont know what it takes to get it to that point if it's not already there.
10. unbolt window from pully system
11. pull window up and out of door (have to twist it a little but it will come all the way out.
12. unbolt the screws holding the motor and pully assembly, I think there's three or 4 bolts.
13. the whole motor and assembly will now come out of the door through an opening towards the left side of the door (left side on drivers door, right side on passenger door.
And that's that, just follow in reverse to finish. Since i'm going off of memory I'm sure i forgot something, but this should help most users get through it.
09-28-2009, 09:33 PM
#2
Trim pieces removed
A few connectors to disconnect
The plastic clips of the door finish. The two on the bottom slid out of the door finish, and remained stuck in the door (you'll see them in the next picture).
09-28-2009, 09:35 PM
#4
When pulling off the plastic, i cut the black stuff with a plastic knife to be more neat, but just pulling it off should work too.
Where the motor sits (inside the regulator assembly). Circled is the motor connector plug. You must unplug it and detach the clip from the door (it's on of those clips you have to squeeze with long nose pliers from the back).
09-28-2009, 09:36 PM
#5
The two holes that let you access the bolts that attach the window to the regulator assembly. The window has to be lowered to the appropriate height to do this. This is probably much easier done when your motor is still somewhat functional. If it's totally dead, you can probably force it down... but then you might be risking damaging things.
The window removed.
09-28-2009, 09:37 PM
#6
Marked are all the bolts that attach the window regulator to the door. The one in the top left corner, you don't want to unscrew entirely, just loosen it and slide it through the hole on the right. It will make the reinstallation of the regulator much easier. You can freely unscrew the three bolts on the right which hold the part where the motor is, as it will still hang on the door by two hooks (which are not visible on the picture).
The hole that you will use to pull the regulator assembly out of the door. You might have to bend the flexible line part a bit to pull it out.
09-29-2009, 05:20 AM
#8
Member
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 149
First of all, this posting was extremely nice and detailed. But, I would like to suggest what I did and what my short cut procedure was to possibly prevent the entire process.
I sprayed WD-40 the down into the outside weather-strip of all windows. The windows now work very well. IM me to let me know if it works you...
I sprayed WD-40 the down into the outside weather-strip of all windows. The windows now work very well. IM me to let me know if it works you...
Last edited by RLStrick756; 09-29-2009 at 07:56 AM.
09-29-2009, 07:49 PM
#12
Thanks guys. Hope people will find it useful.
Yeah, that should work too... less hassle. I would have been too paranoid of it falling though.
Yeah, that should work too... less hassle. I would have been too paranoid of it falling though.
10-07-2009, 11:23 AM
#15
....but if you look at the second picture on post #4, it shows the female connector. Based on the holes in it... it sort of looks like six?
02-07-2010, 07:57 PM
#17
Thank you for the write up. Saved a lot of time knowing exactly what I was looking for before I got into it.
Took my regulator all apart and scrubed it down. The motor has been trying to drag the window up and down the regulator with years of gunked up litium grease built up on it. Its running a lot smoother now, but the motor has seen beter days. Next time I take it apart it will be to change the motor.
Took my regulator all apart and scrubed it down. The motor has been trying to drag the window up and down the regulator with years of gunked up litium grease built up on it. Its running a lot smoother now, but the motor has seen beter days. Next time I take it apart it will be to change the motor.
05-04-2010, 08:25 PM
#18
Member
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Indianapolis, IN
Posts: 208
alright thank you for the write up. My back rear driver side door is completely stuck in the up position. I cleaned out the trim and the track to make sure it wasn't stuck....no go...the switch is fine because i tested it on the other door and it worked fine. I think it the motor so i am just going to replace the regulator and the motor at the same time since it is the same amount of work. My question is there a way to manually lower to back window in order to get to the two screws to release the window? If not is there a way to release the window through some different holes. I might be s.o.l but i want to do this myself cause i can't imaging what an auto glass shop will charge. Is there any way to maybe jump the motor just to get it to roll down like attaching it to a battery? I'm up for any suggestions.
05-05-2010, 08:31 AM
#19
Member
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Indianapolis, IN
Posts: 208
bump i really need help..i just ordered a pair of actuators and motors for my car....less than 100 for both from am-autoparts.com. I really need to figure out how to get the window down so i can replace them. anybody dealt with this before?
05-05-2010, 09:12 AM
#22
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Brandon, FL
Posts: 897
And, there are detailed pictures in this thread - they're pretty much all you need.
I have replaced window motors on a different vehicle and I had to lower the window so the bolts holding it the the regulator line up with holes in the door frame in other for them to be removed.
There's probably a way to make the window to go down when the motor is stuck.
05-05-2010, 11:25 AM
#24
Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2009
Posts: 29
My driver's side window motor is fried. The switch is fine. The problem is that the window is stuck in the up position. Anyone know how to lower the window with a fried motor so that I can get the bolts from the carrier plate removed?
05-05-2010, 02:06 PM
#26
Member
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Indianapolis, IN
Posts: 208
I just called my friend who used to install sunroofs and he said hit the motor with a hammer while you try and lower and raise it. He said don't do it until you have the new regulator and motor because being stuck up is better than being stuck down. He said the hammer may cause the motor to unseize and at least help you get it down and up. I'm not going to try it because i do not have the part but I am going down to see him next Tuesday and I will see what he says. I already ordered the part and it should be here soon. Oh yah if you need a new motor the cheapest place i found it was am-autoparts.com.I got both the rear regulators and motors for 98 dollars shipped. I'm just going to replace them both at the same time since my other one is making noise. I may just have him fix it for me but i don't want to spend the money. I just need to get the damn window down 
.
.
05-28-2010, 06:06 PM
#27
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 2
This has been a great thread. I have a 2000 Maxima. My problem is the driver's window is not working. I replaced the switch, to no avail. It is now stuck in the full-down position. I'm afraid the motor is fried. After reading several posts and threads I found here, I deduced it must be the motor.
I used the pics in this post to disassemble the door panel. A great help.
I put a volt-meter to the motor connector and I'm getting +/-12 volts on the motor wires (blue & green) when I press up and/or down on the switch.
The problem I now have is getting the window to move up, so I can unbolt it from the regulator.
How can I move the window "up" so that I can unbolt it ?
If I have to force it, how much force can I use ?
TIA,
steve.
I used the pics in this post to disassemble the door panel. A great help.
I put a volt-meter to the motor connector and I'm getting +/-12 volts on the motor wires (blue & green) when I press up and/or down on the switch.
The problem I now have is getting the window to move up, so I can unbolt it from the regulator.
How can I move the window "up" so that I can unbolt it ?
If I have to force it, how much force can I use ?
TIA,
steve.
06-02-2010, 09:04 AM
#28
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 2
I finally got the driver's side window, regulator and motor out.
I had to remove the speaker. I then inserted a heavy screwdriver into the slot (below the two bolt access holes) in the door, and pryed the steel regulator up a bit. The regulator would not slide up, so, this was brute force. Don't pry the glass, you'll break it for sure.
Then, I loosened the (window/regulator) bolts by reaching in through the speaker hole, with a 10mm box wrench, for the right-side bolt and the left-side access hole for the left bolt, (all the while, applying upward pressure on the regulator). Since there is little to no room to work with, I had to then remove the bolts with my finger tips after they were loosened a bit. This works if you have small hands and long fingers. I could only use the box wrench to break them loose, not much else. There is just no room.
Oh, btw..., (to test the theory posted above, about banging on the motor with a hammer)..., after I got the motor out, I reconnected it and gave it a power-on test. It did not budge. So I banged on it with a big screwdriver handle a few times, right at the top of the motor.
Presto!!! It started working again (not that I plan to re-use it). At least we know that does work.
New motor should arrive today.
I had to remove the speaker. I then inserted a heavy screwdriver into the slot (below the two bolt access holes) in the door, and pryed the steel regulator up a bit. The regulator would not slide up, so, this was brute force. Don't pry the glass, you'll break it for sure.
Then, I loosened the (window/regulator) bolts by reaching in through the speaker hole, with a 10mm box wrench, for the right-side bolt and the left-side access hole for the left bolt, (all the while, applying upward pressure on the regulator). Since there is little to no room to work with, I had to then remove the bolts with my finger tips after they were loosened a bit. This works if you have small hands and long fingers. I could only use the box wrench to break them loose, not much else. There is just no room.
Oh, btw..., (to test the theory posted above, about banging on the motor with a hammer)..., after I got the motor out, I reconnected it and gave it a power-on test. It did not budge. So I banged on it with a big screwdriver handle a few times, right at the top of the motor.
Presto!!! It started working again (not that I plan to re-use it). At least we know that does work.
New motor should arrive today.
06-03-2011, 08:25 PM
#30
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: SoCal
Posts: 427
thanks for the good write up and pix for a good reminder
11-07-2011, 05:34 PM
#33
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Bellevue, Ne
Posts: 6
I tried beating on the motor with a hammer and it came down a few inches so that I could push it the rest of the way down, enabling me to get the window bolts out. This is a awesome instruction. Without it I couldn't have done it. Thank you very much.
11-08-2011, 05:30 PM
#36
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Bellevue, Ne
Posts: 6
I was just curious. The brackets that you bolt the regulator slider to the window. One of mine is broken, do you know if I can just get another bracket or do I have to find another window with a good bracket on it. I used heavy duct tape and put it back on but I know the tape will dry out and fail at a later date. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank
12-25-2011, 08:57 AM
#38
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Connecticut
Posts: 836
I have all the bolts out and a motor ready to be installed. Only problem is I can't get the window down. I tried banging the motor and I tried forcing it. I tried a little WD-40 as well. Any other ways I can get this motor replaced?
12-25-2011, 09:24 AM
#39
Take a 10 mm flat spanner and attack the two bolts that hold the regulator onto the window from the top and bottom. Its a pain but the only way I think you can get it out once the motor is dead. Tis what I had to do.
There's probably another way to handle this situation..but idk!
There's probably another way to handle this situation..but idk!
12-25-2011, 09:34 AM
#40
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Connecticut
Posts: 836
So I couldn't get it down and I put it all back together, turned the car on and made sure everything else worked the same, and then the broken motor worked. It worked just long enough to roll my window down. Now my window is ALL THE WAY down and I don't know how to pull it up a little bit. What a day.
Last edited by 2damax; 12-25-2011 at 10:09 AM.