5th Generation Maxima (2000-2003)Learn more about the 5th Generation Maxima, including the VQ30DE-K and VQ35DE engines.
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nobody reads threads man why would they do that? its so much easier to skip the reading and ask a bunch of questions that are already answered a few posts prior
I have my shift indicating plate off right now for paint.
Specifically what bulb was used to light up the shifter indicator plate? (w/ numbers and letters)...
Thanks...
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03' SE
Titanuim Silver / Titanium Package
Charcoal cloth interior
Bose Sound system
Side Impact Air Bags
No Mods...
It's not enough to live life... Feel it through excitement! Live each moment like it's your last cause your a long time dead!
No, makes me sick, because I'm re-reading the answer to the stupid question that was answered already.
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Jarrod
2000 Maxima SE
White Pearl
5-Speed, short throw shifter
Dropped on Progress Springs & KYB GR2 Struts
True CAI
Unorthodox Underdrive Pulley
CustomMaxima.com Front Strut Bar
I have my shift indicating plate off right now for paint.
Specifically what bulb was used to light up the shifter indicator plate? (w/ numbers and letters)...
Thanks...
Actually, I just used 7 5mm LEDs and resistors all wired in to the wire from the original light for that plate... I'm not exactly sure what the original bulb was...
Thanks jowo9. I had read your entire write-up, good job by the way, but wanted to make sure the shifter light was not from V-LED’s. I have several leftover, so I figured I’d be sure.
Thanks for the response and your time…
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03' SE
Titanuim Silver / Titanium Package
Charcoal cloth interior
Bose Sound system
Side Impact Air Bags
No Mods...
It's not enough to live life... Feel it through excitement! Live each moment like it's your last cause your a long time dead!
Single #74 bulb facing towards and acrylic diffuser. You can remove the diffuser and make your own very easily using 4 leds and a small piece of acrylic
Excellent. Can you do that externally, or by pulling the center console, or by pulling the center stack?
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NWP phenolic intake spacers, Cattman y-pipe, Cattman 2.5" cat-back, Frankencar short-ram intake, Apexi pop charger, UR crank pulley, ES motor-mount and sub-mount bushings, Racingline FSTB, Progress RSB, STS mod w/ES bushings, Brembo blanks, Hawk ceramic pads, Goodyear Eagle F1's -- 54,000 original owner miles
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02 Maxima SE 6spd w/HLSD
Mods - Stillen high flow intake, Fog light rewire, Ralco RZ STS kit and ES shifter bushings on the way
Future Mods - Brembo blanks, HPS pads, SS brake lines, ES suspension bushings, Eibach springs, Koni Yellows
Past cars
97 Maxima SE 5spd, FSTB, RSB, A4 Projectors, full audio overhaul -Totaled
96 Probe GT auto, CAI, full cat back, custom header - sold
94 Probe GT auto, full audio overhaul - Totaled
93 Altima 5spd, CAI, headers, full catback - totaled
Excellent. Can you do that externally, or by pulling the center console, or by pulling the center stack?
You have to take the trim around the shifter out, take out the head unit/climate control combo, take the HU/CC combo apart, take apart the CC (partially) so that you can get to the clear plastic diffuser. Then, drill holes in the diffuser and insert LEDs
how did you get the clock white? I took mine apart and it still wants to be blue/greeny color
For resistors type resistor calculator on google, type in the number of led's in the string the voltage from the battery, and the voltage drop across the led.
He used red cellophane to make the clock, HU and climate control white.
You have to take the trim around the shifter out, take out the head unit/climate control combo, take the HU/CC combo apart, take apart the CC (partially) so that you can get to the clear plastic diffuser. Then, drill holes in the diffuser and insert LEDs
Ok, here's my best attempt to answer all your questions...
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Very nice leds... going to do mine when I am free. Whats the mcd on those blue led? around 8000mcd?
-I'm not sure the exact mcd on my LEDs. I ordered a 100 pack on ebay that came with 100 resistors. I would advise doing that because it's much easier than trying to find the right resistors. It's cheap too. In my opinion, most of the sellers just throw out a number between 8000 and 20000 for mcd... so it probably doesn't matter... just type in "blue led resistor" in the ebay search and you'll find something good.
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jowo... Do you have a parts list for all the bulbs needed?
-which bulbs? all of the blue ones except in the bottom of the doors are 5mm LEDs from ebay. The ones in the door are just #194 wedge LEDs.
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Where'd you get the red cellophane from? Got any extra you'd like to sell to me so I can do my clock and HVAC as well? Looks good for sure! Good job!
-I got it from a craft store. I tried a couple shades until I found what I liked (the most white) and used 2 pieces doubled up. I'd be willing to mail you a bit of the extra if you want. You might want to check a craft store first though... quite inexpensive and easy to find. Let me know.
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What's that light above your ashtray glowing down on your shifter? Did you create that?
-See previous posts of mine in this thread. The info is there.
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I just went out to the parking lot to look... OMG, there is a light panel there, and you're right that it's incredibly weak. I need to look at this later tonight, after dark.
Wow... 7 years later, and I just found something on my car I never knew was there. Thanks, bibpopaj!
-Hahaha, I know! I had the same reaction a while ago when I saw it. Stupid stock light...
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sweet thanks. one more, just wondering what bulbs you used for all those replacements and where did you buy all the supplies?
-see above answer. as for all of the white exterior lights, i got them at v-leds.com
I can specify the exact ones if anyone wants.
Here's a PM that I am just going to answer in the thread so I don't have to do it again Thanks Kquezada28 and everyone else for the compliments!
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Originally Posted by Kquezada28
wow bro i saw your LED pics and you took that to another lever man...im really liking hoe it looks....the main things i want to know how to do is the shifter light, the ring around the ignition, and how you turned the green displays to white....im in love with the look! i would a ppreciate it if you could help me out! thanks
The Shifter Lights:
You need to get at the light. Remove trim (1 screw under the ashtray... then you can just pry it up carefully with a small flathead screwdriver). Then pry up shifter plate (i think there are 4 places it's snapped in, and you may have to take out the 2 screws of the center console under the shifter trim so you can lift up the front of the center console and get the shift plate out... I'm not sure). Then I put 7 LEDs + resistors (1 for each little window and 2 for the 3-D window) in the little black thing that held the light under the plate and spliced them in to the power wire for the original light. I grounded them on a screw somewhere in that hole under the shifter(can't remember where)
NOTE: For ALL of my blue LEDs, I sand them first. It gives them a cloudy appearance and makes them distribute light evenly so you don't get hotspots as badly
Ignition Ring:
You need to pop off bottom of steering wheel trim. There are 3 screws underneath it you'll have to remove first. Also, the black ring around the clear part of the ring will just pop off. Then take the clear part out, splice in 2 LEDs +resistors to the original light power cord and fit them in to the hole the original light went in to. I grounded these on a screw underneath the trim under the dash on the driver's side (had to take it off, but not hard to do) because if you ground 2 LEDs to the original light's ground wire, they are dimmer...
Green displays changed to WHITE
You'll need to remove the Head Unit/Climate Control combo, and the clock. (there are write-ups on how to do this) You then proceed to take the face off each (not too hard to figure out and usually involves a few screws that hold the face on, and some snaps. just make sure you get all the screws before you try to pry the face off...you'll also need to separate the HU/CC by removing the metal brackets on the sides that also hold it in place).. Put in red cellophane to cover the display (i used 2 layers, but it depends on the type of cellophane you find and use.. just try different ones/combos)
Sorry if these descriptions are unclear or lacking... it's just hard to know exactly what you need to know as you may already know/are able to figure out how to take some things apart. Also, each of those 3 things could have its own writeup with pics and be more effective, but I didn't take any pics when doing it. Sorry if my directions are unclear. I'm happy to clear any of it up or answer any other specific questions though!
or... you can just buy a 100 pack of LEDs and resistors on ebay ... that's what I did.
link? also, what grit sandpaper works best for the leds?
AND, how do you know how many resistors to use? can you give a specific example. for instance the shifter LED's you put in how many lights and how many resistors in what sequence. and what strength are the resistors?
thanks for all your advice on this. led's are a great affordable mod to customize the car and update the looks.
link? also, what grit sandpaper works best for the leds?
AND, how do you know how many resistors to use? can you give a specific example. for instance the shifter LED's you put in how many lights and how many resistors in what sequence. and what strength are the resistors?
thanks for all your advice on this. led's are a great affordable mod to customize the car and update the looks.
-It was a while ago that I bought those LEDs on ebay, but i just searched "blue led resistor" and came up with a bunch of good hits. any of those would be good.. the ones that include resistors... just use your best judgement because the exact ones i bought are no longer there.
-I used 220 grit, but basically anything to "cloud up" the led.
-since the LEDs are usually around 2-4 Volts each, you can only add as many in series as the 12 V voltage of the car. For example. If the LED is rated at 3V, you can put 4 in series before they become dimmer. It won't hurt anything if you do more...but they won't be as bright. So what I did just to be sure they were all maximum brightness was to wire each LED individually with it's own resistor. As far as I know, you're supposed to use a resistor with EVERY LED. So in series, you could do [positive power source to resistor to pos. LED lead to neg. LED lead to resistor to pos. LED lead and so forth] .....
the way I did it was positive power source to all resistors which went to all LEDs. The negatives all combined and spliced into the neg wire or grounded on a screw.
-I didn't want to bother calculating the resistor rating etc. That's why I bought LEDs on ebay that came with them. That way someone in china calculates it for me
So right now I'm doing what metalmaxima did to brighten his gauges (removing old bulbs, dremeling the hole to make it bigger, and soldering in bigger #194 lights instead) I had to drive 20 min to get the last bulb (i ran out! gaah!) and I'm going to finish it tonight. I am not removing the needles and sanding the blue filter because 1. I don't want to chance wrecking my speedo and 2. I don't have the 'superwhite' 194's... just the regular ones... from what I've done so far, it looks like it will be noticeably brighter...even without sanding the blue filter. Will finish tonight.
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-Trying is the first step towards failure...
I don't have the 'superwhite' 194's... just the regular ones... from what I've done so far, it looks like it will be noticeably brighter...even without sanding the blue filter. Will finish tonight.
I highly recommend waiting until you can have access to the Polargs - the output canno be compared to any other 194
-It was a while ago that I bought those LEDs on ebay, but i just searched "blue led resistor" and came up with a bunch of good hits. any of those would be good.. the ones that include resistors... just use your best judgement because the exact ones i bought are no longer there.
-I used 220 grit, but basically anything to "cloud up" the led.
-since the LEDs are usually around 2-4 Volts each, you can only add as many in series as the 12 V voltage of the car. For example. If the LED is rated at 3V, you can put 4 in series before they become dimmer. It won't hurt anything if you do more...but they won't be as bright. So what I did just to be sure they were all maximum brightness was to wire each LED individually with it's own resistor. As far as I know, you're supposed to use a resistor with EVERY LED. So in series, you could do [positive power source to resistor to pos. LED lead to neg. LED lead to resistor to pos. LED lead and so forth] .....
the way I did it was positive power source to all resistors which went to all LEDs. The negatives all combined and spliced into the neg wire or grounded on a screw.
-I didn't want to bother calculating the resistor rating etc. That's why I bought LEDs on ebay that came with them. That way someone in china calculates it for me
Okay sounds good! thanks man.
So if you wire each led seperate power with a resistor, that resistor brings it up from 3v to 12v? sorry Im so noobish with this electrical stuff.... cool I found the ones on ebay that come with resistor.
Im going to do all my lights and gauges with red led's.... I like blue but I think red will have a very distinct look that should make it stand out.
Anybody know if there is a way to make the clock and climate control red? I read you used red cellophane to make clock white... so could you use extra layers to make it turn red? how about the climate control display? I dont know if that is lit by bulbs or if it is some sort of LCD display... anybody tried messing with it?
-no, each resistor makes it so only ~3V gets to each LED, otherwise you'll blow it.
-I used 5mm LEDs all around, though if you're trying to attempt the actual buttons in the climate control (which i didn't cuz they're already quite white) then use 3mm for those. Otherwise 5 are fine and probably the best.
-Using more layers of Red Cellophane might work.. but would make the display considerably dimmer... if I were you i'd just do red everywhere and a white display... but it's your choice. just experiment with the cellophane.
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-Trying is the first step towards failure...
I always considered the clock to be cyan in color. But that must not be the correct color, because in order for cyan to become blue in photographic terms you must add a magenta filter and the cyan will look blue. I have a whole swath of lee filters kicking around so i tried every magenta filter I have to make the clock and climate control blue. None of them worked correctly. So after reading that you need red for the clock to become white I realized I can make my clock blue... It's a little blurry but you get the idea.
does anyone know how to prevent the clock from dimming with the headlights?
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6MT | 06HLSD | I/H/E & FC | Stillen FSTB & RSB | Eibach Pro Kit | Illuminas | Watkins STS | UDP | NWP Spacers | Greddy Blue | ES Bushings
253.50 fwhp
249.75 lb/ft tq
14.3 @ 101mph (street tires, bad wheel bearing and a few spun tranny bearings)
Last edited by knight_yyz; 09-19-2009 at 06:32 PM.
I always considered the clock to be cyan in color. But that must not be the correct color, because in order for cyan to become blue in photographic terms you must add a magenta filter and the cyan will look blue. I have a whole swath of lee filters kicking around so i tried every magenta filter I have to make the clock and climate control blue. None of them worked correctly. So after reading that you need red for the clock to become white I realized I can make my clock blue... It's a little blurry but you get the idea.
does anyone know how to prevent the clock from dimming with the headlights?
yep! its called the always bright clock mod i did it to my max a while back u get access to the wires on the back of the clock and clip the red wire with the silver stripe and tape it off tuck it away. the dimmer will no longer dim the clock and it will always be bright
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BIGPOPAJ369
SEXIMAbadge,black w polished lip rims,rain guards,SRI,painted spark plug cover,AE'd heads w/luminics bulbs,rewired yellow tinted fogs w/out glare guards,polarg blinkers/reverse/plate lites,tinted n rewired sidemarkers(blinker mod),painted interior trim,all interior lights to led,AB clock mod w/white display,red leds in climate control w/white display
Last edited by bigpopaj369; 09-19-2009 at 07:01 PM.
I believe you snip a red wire that goes into the clock... Or one with red on it. I can't remember, I'd have to go look at what I snipped... If no one else knows I'll go look at my clock. My car's just not here for the next hour...
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-Trying is the first step towards failure...
cool, I checked the FSM and according to that, the wire to cut is R/L which is obviously red wire with a stripe, but I think the L actually stands for light blue IIRC. I'll be doing that because the filter is a bit too dark.
Now i have to take the climate control out of the car to do that too.
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6MT | 06HLSD | I/H/E & FC | Stillen FSTB & RSB | Eibach Pro Kit | Illuminas | Watkins STS | UDP | NWP Spacers | Greddy Blue | ES Bushings
253.50 fwhp
249.75 lb/ft tq
14.3 @ 101mph (street tires, bad wheel bearing and a few spun tranny bearings)
5mm all the way around; for climate control button indicator lights, 3mm.
Sounds like you mean LED sizes, but are the stock lights for that area LEDs? Nothing like the small halogen #74 bulb in the stock ignition light ring ? Just yesterday my Climate Control Button Indicator light went out only on the left side.
Thanks.
LEDs look real good! Specially the speedo, im very jealous haha. You obviously took your time, very nice!
Actually...not Took about 5 minutes to setup (or less!). The small LED's just stick to the outside of the cluster....hook up to the 12V cigarette lighter. But the end result does in fact look pretty good! Better in real life I will keep it
I just got my Maxima 2002 SE a few days ago...so I'm looking to mod/improve
This looks amazing. GREAT job man. Quick question, where did you mount all of these LEDs to? Did you have to drill holes in the circuit boards? I'm assuming they didn't just sit where the old bulbs did...