Transmission Flush
09-11-2009, 09:49 PM
#1
Transmission Flush
I recently bought a 02 Maxima with 66,000 miles. The previous performed a transmission flush at 26,000 miles. The tranny fluid is alittle dark, and I wanted to service the fluid. Should I drain and refill every oil change until the fluid is cherry red or flush the tranny.
I ask this because I had some problems with a 96 LS400 with 165,000 miles. I drained and refilled the tranny every 10,000 miles and finally did a flush. It damaged the tranny about 10,000 miles later, and I replaced it with a used one.
Give me your suggestions. I don't want to end up replacing another tranny. Thanks.
I ask this because I had some problems with a 96 LS400 with 165,000 miles. I drained and refilled the tranny every 10,000 miles and finally did a flush. It damaged the tranny about 10,000 miles later, and I replaced it with a used one.
Give me your suggestions. I don't want to end up replacing another tranny. Thanks.
09-11-2009, 10:40 PM
#2
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Tucson, AZ
Posts: 388
I recently bought a 02 Maxima with 66,000 miles. The previous performed a transmission flush at 26,000 miles. The tranny fluid is alittle dark, and I wanted to service the fluid. Should I drain and refill every oil change until the fluid is cherry red or flush the tranny.
I ask this because I had some problems with a 96 LS400 with 165,000 miles. I drained and refilled the tranny every 10,000 miles and finally did a flush. It damaged the tranny about 10,000 miles later, and I replaced it with a used one.
Give me your suggestions. I don't want to end up replacing another tranny. Thanks.
I ask this because I had some problems with a 96 LS400 with 165,000 miles. I drained and refilled the tranny every 10,000 miles and finally did a flush. It damaged the tranny about 10,000 miles later, and I replaced it with a used one.
Give me your suggestions. I don't want to end up replacing another tranny. Thanks.
don't do a machine flush. that's tranny suicide.
09-16-2009, 01:22 PM
#4
I recently bought a 02 Maxima with 66,000 miles. The previous performed a transmission flush at 26,000 miles. The tranny fluid is alittle dark, and I wanted to service the fluid. Should I drain and refill every oil change until the fluid is cherry red or flush the tranny.
I ask this because I had some problems with a 96 LS400 with 165,000 miles. I drained and refilled the tranny every 10,000 miles and finally did a flush. It damaged the tranny about 10,000 miles later, and I replaced it with a used one.
Give me your suggestions. I don't want to end up replacing another tranny. Thanks.
I ask this because I had some problems with a 96 LS400 with 165,000 miles. I drained and refilled the tranny every 10,000 miles and finally did a flush. It damaged the tranny about 10,000 miles later, and I replaced it with a used one.
Give me your suggestions. I don't want to end up replacing another tranny. Thanks.
One with 65k miles should be ok.
Most trannies that go bad after a tranny flush have an underlying problem that causes them to go bad. Naturally, I wouldn't flush out a trans that has 150k miles and was never serviced.
09-16-2009, 01:33 PM
#5
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Tucson, AZ
Posts: 388
A tranny flush with 165k miles = not smart. Draining and filling every 10k miles was a waste of time. Similar to doing an oil change every 3 without changing the filter.
One with 65k miles should be ok.
A drain and fill does not get all the old fluid out. It's a waste of time and money. There is fluid inside other components, such as the torque converter, that should be flushed out.
Most trannies that go bad after a tranny flush have an underlying problem that causes them to go bad. Naturally, I wouldn't flush out a trans that has 150k miles and was never serviced.
One with 65k miles should be ok.
A drain and fill does not get all the old fluid out. It's a waste of time and money. There is fluid inside other components, such as the torque converter, that should be flushed out.
Most trannies that go bad after a tranny flush have an underlying problem that causes them to go bad. Naturally, I wouldn't flush out a trans that has 150k miles and was never serviced.
09-16-2009, 09:17 PM
#8
Of course it doesn't get everything out. But replacing half of the old fluid with new fluid is better than nothing. Nobody has ever reported a tranny failure from a partial drain/fill either so its safe. And because i do it every year, relatively fresh fluid is always flowing. Tranny fluid lasts 30,000k miles so once a year is overkill unless you're only changing out half of the fluid. So no sir, its not a waste of time nor money. It takes 30 minutes to do. Costs about $50. Much safer than a machine flush.
You should be ok
It could be risky if it's never been flushed. Use your judgement.b
09-16-2009, 09:32 PM
#10
Member
Join Date: Sep 2009
Posts: 211
I dont know if domestic cars are different from foreign cars, but I was always told that if you flush a trans that has never been flushed before once it past 80k then you are asking for trouble. Something dealing with you may be removing the clutch materials that was keeping the trans working when it made it past a certian mileage.
09-16-2009, 09:40 PM
#11
Member
Join Date: Sep 2009
Posts: 211
The best I do would be to remove the trans pans and change the filter and add back the fluild that was lost. You still would have clutch material and more importantly you have a new filter. But like the previous posted stated you have to use your best judgement, you can see the condition of the fluid better than anyone else here. If its still light I would say you are safe, but if its dark then you call it.
09-17-2009, 06:52 AM
#14
I dont know if domestic cars are different from foreign cars, but I was always told that if you flush a trans that has never been flushed before once it past 80k then you are asking for trouble. Something dealing with you may be removing the clutch materials that was keeping the trans working when it made it past a certian mileage.
The best I do would be to remove the trans pans and change the filter and add back the fluild that was lost. You still would have clutch material and more importantly you have a new filter. But like the previous posted stated you have to use your best judgement, you can see the condition of the fluid better than anyone else here. If its still light I would say you are safe, but if its dark then you call it.
09-18-2009, 06:52 AM
#17
It should have a filter screen
http://www.partsgeek.com/gbproducts/...ek+Google+Base
http://www.partsgeek.com/gbproducts/...ek+Google+Base
09-18-2009, 07:10 AM
#18
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Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 120
09-18-2009, 11:39 AM
#19
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Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Tucson, AZ
Posts: 388
It should have a filter screen
http://www.partsgeek.com/gbproducts/...ek+Google+Base
http://www.partsgeek.com/gbproducts/...ek+Google+Base
No filter. Just a screen.
09-18-2009, 01:24 PM
#20
I liked the beer part
09-20-2009, 07:04 AM
#21
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Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Arizona
Posts: 40
When I got the 2002 maxima, it had about 25k miles on it. I did a drain and refill and then disconnected the tranny return line from the radiator. I would pump about about a quart, and then add a quart. I repeated this until procedure the fluid looked new.
I read that you may have to put the car in Drive to get all the fluid, but I left it in park. The fluid looked like new at about the time I hit the total capacity of the tranny so maybe the "place in drive" is not true or model specific.
I read that you may have to put the car in Drive to get all the fluid, but I left it in park. The fluid looked like new at about the time I hit the total capacity of the tranny so maybe the "place in drive" is not true or model specific.
09-21-2009, 09:20 PM
#22
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Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 4
anyone over 100k is taking a risk with a machine flush if they have never done one.
drain autotrans:
1. dont be cheap, buy enough to flush your transmiision a couple times
2. car off, drain pan
3. plug and fill with the correct amount of fluid
4. start car, run drive to neutral to reverse about 3 times, (wait for car to 'buck' before shifting)
5. while running, power brake in drive, then reverse (dont O.D. tho)
heres where an assistant is useful
6. with car running, have assistant drop the plug while you shift [refer to step 4]
7. while shifting and plug is out, have assistant add atf - the amount of atf purchased will determine how long this can be done
8. kill the engine while assistant is still flushing new atf through
9. let pan drain [fluid draining should look clear at this point]
10. plug the pan, add the correct amount of pints of atf, run through the gears & power break, check level WITH ENGINE RUNNING
11. Done
if level is low (below cold line or a dry tranny dipstick) add a little and then repeat step 10. level should not be in the high range. remember, if u added the atf thru the dipstick u must give it time to settle.
if level is high (more than mid way between cold and hot) drain a little and check level.
this is time consuming and more expensive than a simple drain & fill. if u are not comfortable with this stick to draining and refilling. but transmission levels should always be checked running. hondas are the only cars where the transmission level is checked with the ignition off.
drain autotrans:
1. dont be cheap, buy enough to flush your transmiision a couple times
2. car off, drain pan
3. plug and fill with the correct amount of fluid
4. start car, run drive to neutral to reverse about 3 times, (wait for car to 'buck' before shifting)
5. while running, power brake in drive, then reverse (dont O.D. tho)
heres where an assistant is useful
6. with car running, have assistant drop the plug while you shift [refer to step 4]
7. while shifting and plug is out, have assistant add atf - the amount of atf purchased will determine how long this can be done
8. kill the engine while assistant is still flushing new atf through
9. let pan drain [fluid draining should look clear at this point]
10. plug the pan, add the correct amount of pints of atf, run through the gears & power break, check level WITH ENGINE RUNNING
11. Done
if level is low (below cold line or a dry tranny dipstick) add a little and then repeat step 10. level should not be in the high range. remember, if u added the atf thru the dipstick u must give it time to settle.
if level is high (more than mid way between cold and hot) drain a little and check level.
this is time consuming and more expensive than a simple drain & fill. if u are not comfortable with this stick to draining and refilling. but transmission levels should always be checked running. hondas are the only cars where the transmission level is checked with the ignition off.
09-21-2009, 09:41 PM
#23
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Tucson, AZ
Posts: 388
anyone over 100k is taking a risk with a machine flush if they have never done one.
drain autotrans:
1. dont be cheap, buy enough to flush your transmiision a couple times
2. car off, drain pan
3. plug and fill with the correct amount of fluid
4. start car, run drive to neutral to reverse about 3 times, (wait for car to 'buck' before shifting)
5. while running, power brake in drive, then reverse (dont O.D. tho)
heres where an assistant is useful
6. with car running, have assistant drop the plug while you shift [refer to step 4]
7. while shifting and plug is out, have assistant add atf - the amount of atf purchased will determine how long this can be done
8. kill the engine while assistant is still flushing new atf through
9. let pan drain [fluid draining should look clear at this point]
10. plug the pan, add the correct amount of pints of atf, run through the gears & power break, check level WITH ENGINE RUNNING
11. Done
if level is low (below cold line or a dry tranny dipstick) add a little and then repeat step 10. level should not be in the high range. remember, if u added the atf thru the dipstick u must give it time to settle.
if level is high (more than mid way between cold and hot) drain a little and check level.
this is time consuming and more expensive than a simple drain & fill. if u are not comfortable with this stick to draining and refilling. but transmission levels should always be checked running. hondas are the only cars where the transmission level is checked with the ignition off.
drain autotrans:
1. dont be cheap, buy enough to flush your transmiision a couple times
2. car off, drain pan
3. plug and fill with the correct amount of fluid
4. start car, run drive to neutral to reverse about 3 times, (wait for car to 'buck' before shifting)
5. while running, power brake in drive, then reverse (dont O.D. tho)
heres where an assistant is useful
6. with car running, have assistant drop the plug while you shift [refer to step 4]
7. while shifting and plug is out, have assistant add atf - the amount of atf purchased will determine how long this can be done
8. kill the engine while assistant is still flushing new atf through
9. let pan drain [fluid draining should look clear at this point]
10. plug the pan, add the correct amount of pints of atf, run through the gears & power break, check level WITH ENGINE RUNNING
11. Done
if level is low (below cold line or a dry tranny dipstick) add a little and then repeat step 10. level should not be in the high range. remember, if u added the atf thru the dipstick u must give it time to settle.
if level is high (more than mid way between cold and hot) drain a little and check level.
this is time consuming and more expensive than a simple drain & fill. if u are not comfortable with this stick to draining and refilling. but transmission levels should always be checked running. hondas are the only cars where the transmission level is checked with the ignition off.
and remove the tranny return line. that method is the least wasteful in terms of using ATF.
09-22-2009, 06:55 PM
#24
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 4
^^very true. my method is not the easiest or the safest. i work on cars and do transmission flushes all the time at work. so this method would be DIFFICULT for someone whose never done it and impossible without help.
Safer way : skip steps 5-9
Safer way : skip steps 5-9
09-22-2009, 08:11 PM
#25
Member
Join Date: Apr 2009
Posts: 37
It seems to make common sense that if you have not serviced your tranny for 100k miles and do a machine flush then your tranny fails at 110k miles, it was due to the fact that you never maintained your tranny in the first place and not from the machine flush. I'm thinking the tranny would have failed at 110k miles regardless of the flush.
If I'm off base, I'd love to have someone explain to me exactly how a machine flush can affect a tranny to the point of failure.
09-22-2009, 08:17 PM
#26
I've dropped the pan and did a flush last year with synthetic mobil 1 and it shifted smoother afterwards...and I'm pretty sure this was the 1st flush teh cars ever seen and it was around 130k miles. I probably wont do it again until next year...abotu every 2 years or so...I drive a lot
09-22-2009, 08:28 PM
#27
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Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Tucson, AZ
Posts: 388
I don't understand why this would be suicide. I've followed this thread for a while now and I cannot understand what a machine flush could possibly (physically) do to your tranny to cause it to fail. Any crap not sticking to the magnet gets flushed and whatever gets jarred loose sticks to the magnet 60 seconds after you crank the engine.
It seems to make common sense that if you have not serviced your tranny for 100k miles and do a machine flush then your tranny fails at 110k miles, it was due to the fact that you never maintained your tranny in the first place and not from the machine flush. I'm thinking the tranny would have failed at 110k miles regardless of the flush.
If I'm off base, I'd love to have someone explain to me exactly how a machine flush can affect a tranny to the point of failure.
It seems to make common sense that if you have not serviced your tranny for 100k miles and do a machine flush then your tranny fails at 110k miles, it was due to the fact that you never maintained your tranny in the first place and not from the machine flush. I'm thinking the tranny would have failed at 110k miles regardless of the flush.
If I'm off base, I'd love to have someone explain to me exactly how a machine flush can affect a tranny to the point of failure.
09-22-2009, 08:54 PM
#28
Member
Join Date: Apr 2009
Posts: 37
my point exactly. its only tranny suicide if the tranny has the original fluid from the factory in there. The machine is basically pushing all those shards of metal in the fluid out that the tranny needs to maintain friction because its so worn down from the 10 year old fluid in there. If you machine flush every 30k miles, then its safe.
How can you rely on 'shards of metal' floating in your tranny fluid to provide friction, LOL!! If you have 'shards of metal' floating in the tranny case then you are a few short weeks (?days) from impending tranny failure regardless of what you do!
09-22-2009, 09:11 PM
#29
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Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Tucson, AZ
Posts: 388
The way I see it, it is always 'safe' to do a machine flush regardless of mileage. IMHO, you can do no harm in doing a machine flush. If your tranny fails down the road, it is because you never serviced it in the first place and not from the machine flush.
How can you rely on 'shards of metal' floating in your tranny fluid to provide friction, LOL!! If you have 'shards of metal' floating in the tranny case then you are a few short weeks (?days) from impending tranny failure regardless of what you do!
How can you rely on 'shards of metal' floating in your tranny fluid to provide friction, LOL!! If you have 'shards of metal' floating in the tranny case then you are a few short weeks (?days) from impending tranny failure regardless of what you do!
And before you LOL like a moron, take a look at a few of these explanations online on why you shouldn't do a machine flush, moron.
Flush machines do what they say; they force high pressure cleaning solvents back through the engine and transmission and clean out some of the accumulated junk that has formed. Now engines have small passages and galleries through which oil or automatic transmission fluid flow and there are one-way valves that keep the fluids from backtracking for whatever reason. By using an aggressive cleaning procedure like flushing, large chunks of accumulated sludge are broken off and forced backwards through these galleries and valves and, more often than not, lodge tightly and block them. This cuts off the normal flow of the fluid and causes lack of lubrication in an engine and abnormal or no shifting in a transmission. The results are expensive repairs, or more often, engine or transmission replacement.
Read more: http://autotechrepair.suite101.com/a...#ixzz0RtonBEVC
Read more: http://autotechrepair.suite101.com/a...#ixzz0RtonBEVC
If your vehicle has high mileage (> 80,000 miles) and the transmission has not been maintained, I would not recommend replacing the fluid and filter. The fluid that has been in the transmission all this time has become dirty and gritty. This gritty fluid is actually providing needed friction for the worn internal parts of the transmission.
Changing the fluid and replacing the filter would remove this friction that the internal transmission parts have become dependent on. If you have not been regularly maintaining the transmission throughout the life of the car, you might actually be doing more harm than good if you replace the transmission fluid at this point. For example, putting new clean slick transmission fluid in an older high mileage vehicle could cause the transmission to slip.
If you are not experiencing a problem, have over 80,000 miles on your car, and have not kept up regular maintenance on the transmission, my advice would be to leave the transmission fluid and filter alone. If you are experiencing a transmission problem like those listed above, seek the advice of a qualified transmission shop before allowing your regular mechanic to service the transmission.
I learned about this problem several years ago...the hard way. We had two cars in our shop with these "minor" transmission symptoms that I have listed above, and both of them had to be towed out to the transmission shop after servicing. The old fluid was gritty due to metal shavings caused by normal internal wear and tear on the transmission clutches and was acting like liquid sandpaper.
This "sandpaper" was producing the friction needed for the transmission to pull itself. When we changed the filter and replaced the old fluid with new fluid, the clutches inside the transmission had nothing to grab on to. Sometimes even the best of us learn lessons the hard (and expensive) way.
Read More: http://www.myhonestmechanic.com/arti...slipping.shtml
Changing the fluid and replacing the filter would remove this friction that the internal transmission parts have become dependent on. If you have not been regularly maintaining the transmission throughout the life of the car, you might actually be doing more harm than good if you replace the transmission fluid at this point. For example, putting new clean slick transmission fluid in an older high mileage vehicle could cause the transmission to slip.
If you are not experiencing a problem, have over 80,000 miles on your car, and have not kept up regular maintenance on the transmission, my advice would be to leave the transmission fluid and filter alone. If you are experiencing a transmission problem like those listed above, seek the advice of a qualified transmission shop before allowing your regular mechanic to service the transmission.
I learned about this problem several years ago...the hard way. We had two cars in our shop with these "minor" transmission symptoms that I have listed above, and both of them had to be towed out to the transmission shop after servicing. The old fluid was gritty due to metal shavings caused by normal internal wear and tear on the transmission clutches and was acting like liquid sandpaper.
This "sandpaper" was producing the friction needed for the transmission to pull itself. When we changed the filter and replaced the old fluid with new fluid, the clutches inside the transmission had nothing to grab on to. Sometimes even the best of us learn lessons the hard (and expensive) way.
Read More: http://www.myhonestmechanic.com/arti...slipping.shtml
Before draining or flushing you should pull the dip stick and look at the fluid. If it is dark, burnt smelling, and you see little flakes or speck in it, DO NOT FLUSH IT. The fluid and transmission is TOAST, but the transmission just has not figured out it should die yet. In these cases for reasons no one has figured out yet, if you flush a transmission in this condition it will fail right away. Real strange, but that is what seems to happen. If your trans is in this condition just drive it while you save for a replacement transmission. There is no way of telling when it will fail. It might be today, next week, or next year, but it is doomed.
Read more: http://www.gadgetonline.com/TransFlush.htm
Read more: http://www.gadgetonline.com/TransFlush.htm
Last edited by Col Ronson; 09-22-2009 at 09:15 PM.
09-22-2009, 10:01 PM
#30
Member
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Tuscaloosa, Alabama
Posts: 200
I was going through my very well maintained Maintenance Log Booklet and the last time it was recorded that the transmission was actually flushed was at 41,637 miles. Tranny now has 116K miles. If I check the tranny fluid and it doesn't smell burnt and/or have flakes in it, do you think it's safe to flush it again?
09-23-2009, 08:03 PM
#32
Member
Join Date: Apr 2009
Posts: 37
Most mechanics reccommend that if you've never serviced the transmission, then don't do a transmission flush. Yes the tranny is on its way out, but the machine flush will aggravate the problem. i'm not pulling this out of my *** if you use a thing called google or just actually search the FAQs on this topic, this has been gone over a million times.
And before you LOL like a moron, take a look at a few of these explanations online on why you shouldn't do a machine flush, moron.
Another One:
<snip>
Still laughing? You Shouldn't.
<snip>
There you go. Trannys that have never been serviced can go for thousands of more miles. Flushing it will just kill it instantly instead of the slow death it's going through. Still laughing?
And before you LOL like a moron, take a look at a few of these explanations online on why you shouldn't do a machine flush, moron.
Another One:
<snip>
Still laughing? You Shouldn't.
<snip>
There you go. Trannys that have never been serviced can go for thousands of more miles. Flushing it will just kill it instantly instead of the slow death it's going through. Still laughing?
I think these recommendations are more based on the shop not wanting to take the liability attached to a tranny failure that would otherwise have occurred anyway. Don't service it --- let it fail --- shop has no liability. Service it and you might be on the hook for a new tranny! Hell, if I owned a shop, I'd stay away from that tranny too! I could find absolutely no science behind the theory that circulating sludge in the tranny fluid 'lubricates' the tranny. If you can find it, I'd like to read it.
But I absolutely refuse to believe any good can come from from using tranny fluid that has suffered from near total viscosity breakdown and is full of contaminants. Hey! Here's a thought! When your tranny starts to slip pour a quart of liquid polishing compound down the fill tube! Not a good idea is it?
I guess the take home message is not to let yourself get to this point. Flush the tranny every 30k and if it's craps out at 120k you know you did nothing wrong. If you're buying a used max, ask about the tranny service record. It's just as important as regular oil changes.
09-23-2009, 08:06 PM
#33
Member
Join Date: Apr 2009
Posts: 37
I was going through my very well maintained Maintenance Log Booklet and the last time it was recorded that the transmission was actually flushed was at 41,637 miles. Tranny now has 116K miles. If I check the tranny fluid and it doesn't smell burnt and/or have flakes in it, do you think it's safe to flush it again?
09-23-2009, 09:14 PM
#37
Member
Join Date: Apr 2009
Posts: 37
I recently bought a 02 Maxima with 66,000 miles. The previous performed a transmission flush at 26,000 miles. The tranny fluid is alittle dark, and I wanted to service the fluid. Should I drain and refill every oil change until the fluid is cherry red or flush the tranny.
I ask this because I had some problems with a 96 LS400 with 165,000 miles. I drained and refilled the tranny every 10,000 miles and finally did a flush. It damaged the tranny about 10,000 miles later, and I replaced it with a used one.
Give me your suggestions. I don't want to end up replacing another tranny. Thanks.
I ask this because I had some problems with a 96 LS400 with 165,000 miles. I drained and refilled the tranny every 10,000 miles and finally did a flush. It damaged the tranny about 10,000 miles later, and I replaced it with a used one.
Give me your suggestions. I don't want to end up replacing another tranny. Thanks.
09-23-2009, 09:45 PM
#39
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Tucson, AZ
Posts: 388
Resorting to name calling and interjecting snide comments just make you look childish. Why do you think it is okay to resort to this rather than carry on civil discussion? For the record, I'm quite acutely aware of the recommendations frequently made to avoid machine flushing an aging, ill maintained tranny. I'm also intelligent enough to make my own conclusions using reason and common sense.
As for the shards of metal: if you actually had an effing clue how a transmission worked, you know it needs friction in order for the clutch to pull the gears. as the gears get runned down, it needs the metal shavings to provide some friction. LOL at this all you want, but i already provided my sources.
I think these recommendations are more based on the shop not wanting to take the liability attached to a tranny failure that would otherwise have occurred anyway. Don't service it --- let it fail --- shop has no liability. Service it and you might be on the hook for a new tranny! Hell, if I owned a shop, I'd stay away from that tranny too! I could find absolutely no science behind the theory that circulating sludge in the tranny fluid 'lubricates' the tranny. If you can find it, I'd like to read it.
But I absolutely refuse to believe any good can come from from using tranny fluid that has suffered from near total viscosity breakdown and is full of contaminants. Hey! Here's a thought! When your tranny starts to slip pour a quart of liquid polishing compound down the fill tube! Not a good idea is it?
I guess the take home message is not to let yourself get to this point. Flush the tranny every 30k and if it's craps out at 120k you know you did nothing wrong. If you're buying a used max, ask about the tranny service record. It's just as important as regular oil changes.
As for the shards of metal: if you actually had an effing clue how a transmission worked, you know it needs friction in order for the clutch to pull the gears. as the gears get runned down, it needs the metal shavings to provide some friction. LOL at this all you want, but i already provided my sources.
I think these recommendations are more based on the shop not wanting to take the liability attached to a tranny failure that would otherwise have occurred anyway. Don't service it --- let it fail --- shop has no liability. Service it and you might be on the hook for a new tranny! Hell, if I owned a shop, I'd stay away from that tranny too! I could find absolutely no science behind the theory that circulating sludge in the tranny fluid 'lubricates' the tranny. If you can find it, I'd like to read it.
But I absolutely refuse to believe any good can come from from using tranny fluid that has suffered from near total viscosity breakdown and is full of contaminants. Hey! Here's a thought! When your tranny starts to slip pour a quart of liquid polishing compound down the fill tube! Not a good idea is it?
I guess the take home message is not to let yourself get to this point. Flush the tranny every 30k and if it's craps out at 120k you know you did nothing wrong. If you're buying a used max, ask about the tranny service record. It's just as important as regular oil changes.
Sure its shops not wanting to take liability, but then again it's almost common sense. When you are pushing all that crap around, its bound to cause some problems. Thats why most recommend if you've never flushed before, after a certain critical point, don't flush. i've already found sources to back up that assertion, so if you don't wanna bite, you're more stubborn than a republican trying to learn natural selection.
Here's an analogy: cars that have a leaking oil problem leak MORE oil once you add synthetic to it. Why? The synthetic oil works so well it actually cleans up the clogs that have prevented the leak problem from getting bad. If you are aware of the recommendations, then so be it. Don't advise a dude to flush his tranny for the first time at 100k and then to have his tranny ruined 500 miles later for your crap advice.
My advice to the guy who had his tranny last serviced at 41k and wants to know if its safe to flush his machine: its impossible to know. My advice? Do a drain and fil. Thats my advice. If you don't wanna follow it, fine. If you wanna flush it, fine. Why do i suggest a drain/fill? nobody has reported a tranny failure from a partial drain/fill Has anyone ever reported a tranny failure from a machine flush? you bet
That's what i thought.
Last edited by Col Ronson; 09-23-2009 at 09:47 PM.
09-23-2009, 11:06 PM
#40
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Sep 2009
Posts: 14
well good question, I know that if you flush the transmission oil or adding to it, may cause transmission failure. So it's better to leave it the way it is. Transmission oil is not like the motor oil that you change every 3000-5000 miles. I did changed my 2 maximas (2000 5speed and 2003 AT) and nothing happened; It works great...Give it a shot!